An itinerary of 10 action-packed days dining and doing in amazing Oaxaca de Juarez. It includes:
1. Day-by-day top recommendations of places to visit and dining "musts"
2. More than 70 recommended things to do, eat, and see
3. Two detailed road trip guides for Hierve el Agua and San Martin Tilcajete.
4. Notes, insights, videos, photos, and more.
Why Oaxaca de Juarez?
Colorful and welcoming. Hip yet old world. Infused with the pride of Zapotec culture, yet embracing of modern Mexico’s foodie standards. Oaxaca de Juarez defies easy labels and is all the better for it. With one of the most charming Centros in all of Latin America, Oaxaca is unapologetically itself on every level. Majestic churches, historic buildings, stunning street art, indigenous gardens, massive markets, quirky small museums. . .Oaxaca has them all. Best of all, its undercurrent of edge and counterculture keeps this vibrant town from being too consumed by expat and digital nomad influence. Pretty and vibrant, yes. Blandly beautiful? Never.
2. Itinerary: 10 Action-Packed Days (includes daily dining recommendations)
3. Centro Neighborhoods
4. Recommended Hotels
5. The Perfect Overnight Road Trip
6. The Perfect Day Trip
7. More Great Dining
8. More Cheap Eats
9. More See & Do
10. More Markets & Shops
11. When to Go
12. Safety
13. Helpful Spanish
Using This Guide
My 10-day guides are action-packed, very opinionated, and lean heavy on wayfaring (enjoying destinations by foot, road trips). Read through the 10-day itinerary (below) first to get a feel for my day-by-day suggestions for falling in love with Oaxaca City through its sites, sounds, and tastes. Each day includes things to do and "don't miss" dining recommendations, They also are mix and match. You may prefer to do the two road trips back-to-back, for example. Speaking of which, the two road trips each have their own sections: The Perfect Overnight Trip and The Perfect Day Trip. Additional sections include places to dine, visit and experience that are not outlined in the itinerary (More Great Dining, More Markets & Shops, etc.). And, at the end I've added a section on Helpful Spanish. Dive in and let me know how you trip goes by DMing me at @wayfarerdawn on Instagram.
10 Action-Packed Days: Itinerary
1. Day One
Arrive mid-afternoon, check in, get your first gander of the square around Templo Guzman, shop the boutiques along c. Cinco de Mayo, grab a beer at Oaxaca Brewing Company and dine on a rooftop to get a birds eye view of the street of Centro. I recommend either Casa Oaxaca, or Terraza Los Amantes.
A lovely church with a small art gallery and the hub of all the action in Oaxaca City Centro. Beautifully lit at night and a great gathering spot, you'll notice tour guides strolling the front courtyard like sharks. Your "no gracias" will get a workout. Airbnb offers the best walking tours if you are interested in a city overview.
Popular and trendy, the food here is good (not great) but the cocktails and appetizers shine. The rooftop facing Templo de Santa Domingo de Guzman is the number 1 reason to book a table. Number 2 is the custom-blended salsa made table side by your server. If you are nervous about trying grasshoppers (a food staple in Oaxaca), the salsa gives you a chance to try the crunchy critters in an approachable — yet inevitable tiny-legs-in-your-teeth — way.
Downside: a slightly overpriced rooftop restaurant above a hotel. Upside: Best view in town, hands down (see the cover photo to this guide!). A great first-night dining choice as the magic of Oaxaca comes alive when you gaze at fireworks and/or birds flying over Templo de Santa Domingo Guzman or simply watch the lights twinkle in the distant hills. Tasty cocktails, fab mezcal list and pretty good food. Plus, how can you resist a place called “the lovers.”?
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2. Day Two
Savor a hearty late breakfast at Yeloge, then stroll the colorful streets to join the line at Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca botanical gardens (for the 11:00 am tour in English). Pop across the street to snap a photo of the stamp-covered VW Bug and wonder at the weirdness of the quirky small museum, MUFI. If you are up for even more museum, also visit Oaxaca Graphic Arts Institute. Sip a few mezcals (and buy rabbit glasses) at Mezcaleria In Situ before settling in for the early seating at Crudo.
Everything on the menu at this tiny breakfast and lunch spot is consistently delicious. Sandwiches, salads, egg dishes, smoothies, desserts, and espresso drinks — all stellar. It will become a go-to spot for you, especially if your lodging is in North Centro or Jalatlaco. I have a hard time NOT ordering the superb chicken sandwich. Vegan and gluten-free options.
Located adjacent to Templo de Santo Domingo Guzman and surrounded by un-peekable stone walls, it’s hard to imagine the breadth of local plant diversity in this urban garden. English tours start at 11 am most days and you simply have to arrive early (up to an hour) and stand in line to snag one of 30 spots. It’s worth it. A guide slowly strolls you around the curated grounds spinning tales about indigenous plants and human cultivation over generations with opportunities to touch, smell, and, in some spots, taste, the plants. Great general storytelling and true botanical insights, as well. Habla espanol? Tienes suerte. Puedes elegir entre tres tours al dia en 10, 11, y 12.
This charming museum features stamp-related surrealist art and odd special exhibits. A library of sliding vertical drawers houses an impressive collection of antique stamps and postcards, as well as correspondence from around the world. A highlight is a compilation of Frida Kahlo’s letters to a local Oaxacan doctor. The lovely space also includes a spacious, tranquil patio and a quirky gift shop. Donation-only.
While three exhibit rooms feature absorbing and inspirational works past and present, the main reason to visit IAGO is its library. Considered one of the most important art book collections in all of Latin America, it also is free and open to everyone. This includes the private libraries of Rufino Tamayo, Sergio Hernández and the poet Víctor García. Peruse books on graphics, architecture, photography, painting, drawing, sculpture and art theory at your leisure.
Probably the funkiest and most original mezcaleria in town, In Situ eschews the traditional cross votive glass for its own drunken rabbit logo glass. I took home a set the first time I visited. Featuring a mind-boggling array of Oaxca’s signature spirit, you can learn a ton about various distilling traditions — or not. The proprietors are just as willing to lure you into mezcal lore as they are to let you sip in peace. You don’t feel the sales pitch here, which is refreshing, and they don’t ingratiatingly cater to English speakers.
Tiny 8-seat Crudo is topping fancy foodie magazine lists and while it deserves the attention due to its originality, prepare for truly mind-blowing hits and some odd misses in the 8-course omakase menu. Chef Ricardo Arellano is nothing if not original with his Japan meets Oaxaca cuisine. In 2023, the price is $1300 pesos ($70 USD) per person. More for drinks. You WhatsApp or DM through Instagram for reservations, and pay 50% upfront by dropping off the cash or through bank transfer. Sounds like a hassle, but absolutely worth it for sushi lovers.
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Day Three
Wind your way up to Xochimilco via c. Rufino Tumayo and enjoy brunch on the rooftop or courtyard at Petit Cafe. Weave through the streets of Xochimilco admiring the street art and the arches of the city's ancient aqueduct. Walk back into Centro via c. Porfirio Diaz or c. de Manuel Garcia Vigil. Pop into Instituto Oaxaqueno de las Artesanias (ARIPO) for serious shopping. The handcrafted works here are top notch. Stop in Mercado Sanchez Pascuas for an agua fresca or Rita Chocolateria across the street for rich chocolate ice cream before trying your hand at a woodblock art class at Subterraneos (book an English class in advance through Instagram @subterraneos.oax). Walk away with ink under your nails and a sense of satisfaction. Grab an early dinner at Labo Fermento. Finish the night with drinks at Selva or experiencing submersive theater at Microenormous.
Hands down my favorite Oaxacan cuisine breakfast/brunch spot. Great food, a lovely courtyard, and an even lovelier rooftop terraza. All the food is super-tasty, but I lean toward the Chilaquiles Verdes or the Empanadas Coloraditos. The stroll through the street-art filled streets of Xochimilco is part of the charm.
For higher quality crafts at fair market prices, this small but mighty artisan market is the hands-down best in Centro. Set in an historic stone building around a pleasant courtyard, you’ll find clever jewelry, hand-mand pillows and other fabric home goods, ceramics, carved masks and alebrijes worth owning.
Easily my favorite market in Oaxaca for fresh and prepared food, it’s also the best place to buy fresh flowers. Smaller and easy-going, Sanchez is the place you’ll return to again and again if you’re preparing your own meals. Stock up on fresh fruits, veggies, meats, spices, and oils. Snack on pumpkin flour empanadas and other delights. And be sure to grab an aqua fresca (fresh fruit water) if it’s hot out. Pepino con limon (cucumber with lemon) beats the heat like nothing else.
Across the street from Mercado Sanchez is my greatest food downfall in the city. Rito sells artisan chocolate bars, chocolate for hot cocoa, and, to my mind, the creamiest, most delectable chocolate ice cream (helado) in the city. Bittersweet raw cocoa nibs whirled throughout the velvety deliciousness keep it from being demasiado dulce (too sweet). Go home with a pint, or better yet, a gallon!
Even if you, like me, have limited artistic skill, you’ll fully appreciate a woodprint making class at Subterraneos. One of the most forgiving and almost athletic art forms, you’ll find yourself working off frustrations as you dig channels into a thin wooden board and use all your muscles to forcefully roll thick, sticky ink into every groove. A few spins of the hand-cranked printer later and you’ve magically created an image. Loose afternoon “classes'' in English teach you the basics, then off you go. Your teacher is an artist working out of the space and his/her/their pieces are most likely for sale. The photo shown here is my husband with his latest masterpiece.
New in 2022, this delightfully odd bistro serves a fusion of Asian-style fermented dishes with Oaxacan flavors. Lactofermented and pickled veggies and noodles take center-stage. Don’t ignore the delicious spicy dumplings. At the entrance is a small tienda selling house brand shoyu, miso, and kombucha, as well as curated textiles and ceramics from Korea and Japan.
Trendy with an urban vibe, Selva serves small, clever cocktails crafted by mixologists. Basically drinks you’d find in Manhattan — but at a third of the price. Despite the feeling that it’s a scene in which to be seen, the sleek wood bar offers perfectly placed lights, sexy shadows and Instagrammability. A tiny balcony features nice views of Templo de Santa Domingo de Guzman. Sweet tooths beware — drinks are NOT sweet here. Most are mezcal smoky with herby with bitter depths. My kind of place!
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Day Four
Snag a warm pastry and latte from Pan Con Madre before your driver rolls up. Enjoy your 20 minute ride to the small village family compound of Quinta Brava. Have the time of your life cooking and dining with chef Miguel and his crew. Five hours (and a few shots of mezcal later) you’ll likely be full and fuzzy as you head back to your digs. If not, share some apps on the rooftop at Restaurante Tierra del Sol.
Baked fresh multiple times a day (there’s even a “fresh from the oven” chalkboard schedule on the door), the breads and pastries here are truly top notch. Grab a cardamon spiral or a classic chocolate croissant. Crusty, seed-filled bread rounds are perfect to sop up runny egg yolks cooked at home in your Airbnb.
If an all-day cooking class that’s also a great hang and an excuse to sip homemade mezcal isn’t your style, skip this. But if getting to know Oaxacan cooking basics in the lovely courtyard of Chef Miguel’s family compound sounds like a great day, Quinta Brava is for you. Chef sends a car or van to pick you up at 9 am and the fun begins. After chatting for awhile over coffee about how you collectively want the day to unfold, you will proceed to shop, chop, eat and laugh for the next 4 to 5 hours. He is beyond charming, and, along with his staff, keeps the pace brisk and engaging while imparting insightful tips. On the pricey side, but delicious, and so worth it.
Good food on a great terrace. Mains and moles are a tad overpriced, so, similar to Casa Oaxaca around the corner, the best way to experience Tierra del Sol is by arriving just before sunset and ordering cocktails and appetizers (“entradas”) on the rooftop. Try the Comal de Memelitas y Picaditas and the Tacos De Lechon. El Diablo is a spectacular mezcal cocktail with a kick.
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Day Five
Call a taxi and time your visit to Monte Alban right when the ancient doors open at 9 am. Tap into your awe and reverence for the brilliance of the Zapotecs as you wander this pre-Colombian marvel. Give yourself two hours to fully see it all. Taxi back and relish the rich flavors as you linger over lunch at Boulenc. Rest up in the early afternoon to prepare for your pre-booked Mezcal y Mole class with the Agave Spirits Institute. Seven mezcals later you’ll find the perfect drunk food in a loaded burger from the Spongebob (Original) burger cart.
Chances are this vast pre-Columbian archaeological site is already on your list, as it once was the most important Zapotec city in Mesoamerica. Founded in 500 BC, Monte Alban had a thriving population of 35,000 for more than 1,500 years. You don’t need to join a tour or even hire an onsite guide to appreciate the site fully. I rarely enjoy plodding through ruins with others learning things I can read online or in a guidebook. If that’s your scene, companies hawk their tours all around the Zocalo. If you, like I, prefer to explore the grounds of Monte Alban with a sense of discovery, you can simply hop in a cab and visit the site on your own schedule. It’s just 8 kilometers from the city center. You also can hire a private guide onsite if you like. TIP: You can climb many of the structures so prepare for steep, thin steps and wear closed-toed shoes!
Boulenc is on everyone’s “must brunch” list for a reason, and, because it does not take reservations, the line can get long. I joke that there is an underground railroad from all the hostels to Boulenc and the crowd is decidedly young and gringo. A variety of cuisines grace the menu — a blessing when you just can’t stuff in any more tortillas. Add in artisan breads and pastries and great coffee and it's simply a winning formula. I adore the spicy Banh Mi, the Rueben, and any and all juice blends. After you eat, pop over two doors to Suculenta Productos Caseros (see Don't Miss Markets & Shops section), a gourmet goods store.
The best way to learn about these two, treasured Oaxacan culinary delights is with a tasting class. And, Certified Sommelier and Master of Agave Spirits, Daniel Rodriguez, crafted the perfect experience. You’ll taste 7 mezcals and moles and have the time of your life in the beautiful Agave Spirits Institute space just a 15-minute cab ride from Centro. Daniel trained others, and, in 2022, expanded his classes to Mexico City, Tulum, and San Miguel Allende. But, Oaxaca is the OG and where he often teaches. TIP: Eat some cheese beforehand! Usually held at 5 pm, the classes are pre-dinner and way, way post lunch. You’ll need some cheese to absorb the mezcal. They are 40+ proof and 7 of them add up.
You’d think all “drunk food” burger carts (found all around town past a certain hour) would be the same, but you would be wrong. The quality and preparation varies greatly. This cart,
run by a kind proprietor, has the freshest patties, prepared perfectly, with loads of topping options. Try the “todas” burger with everything (including pineapple). So deliciously bad. See here for a photo of him and his cart. Accept no substitutes! AND -- IGNORE the location information below. The cart is almost ALWAYS near the Selina hostel at the corner of c. 5 de Mayo and c. Murguia.
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Day Six
Discover the best way to explore nearby villages and Hierve el Agua in the Perfect Overnight Road Trip section (below).
Day Seven
Return from your overnight road trip in the evening. Take a break from Mexican cuisine and savor a meal at Adama (mediterranean) or Casa Ceclia (Spanish).
Although on the pricey side for casual dining in Oaxaca, this wonderful Mediterranean bistro offers exceptional falafel, shawarma, and more. Tucked away on a small courtyard near an ancient fountain, the location feels intimate. Unlike most higher-end places, Adama is solo efectivo (cash only).
New to Oaxaca in 2022 and already a fave of expat friends of ours, Casa Celia is Spanish food (as in from Spain), such as tapas and paella served in cozy, minimalist setting. The menu changes weekly and everything is wonderful. The friendly proprietor is an Oaxacan native, who spent a decade as a chef in Barcelona. Enough said.
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Day Eight
Start your day with a delicious tlayuda at Mercado Organico La Cosecha. Check out the latest exhibits at Museo de los Pintores Art Museum. Then, steal yourself for the masses with a trek to and through the vast Abastos market. Or, simply stroll the Zocolo and the other Mercados listed in the More Markets & Shops section. Treat yourself to quality vintage clothes and goods at Juana La Vintage. Sip a cocktail at Casa Emperador before settling in to your reserved table at Criollo.
With around 10 stalls, this prepared food market is a staple for new visitors to Oaxaca. Featuring noteworthy representations of Oaxacan cuisine, it’s a great introduction to traditional dishes, such as tlayudas and memelas. Lots of vegetarian options, plus coffee and smoothies and fresh juices. If you are a meat eater, try the tlayuda carne asada.
Donation-only and located in a restored 17th century building, this small art museum features thought-provoking modern and revolving installations. Each visit reveals powerful, meaningful or fun new works from local and regional artists. The structure itself is a lovely work of art and it's easy to pair a visit here with a stroll around the Zocalo (central square) and the towering Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca across the street.
If you thrive in the massive hive of bustling markets, the sprawling Abastos is a must. Oaxaca’s largest and most local market can overwhelm and delight all at once. Even veteran travelers familiar with Asian and Latin-American markets can get lost amidst the tented ceilings and tin walls. Give into it and simply take in the eye candy. Find fresh veggies, odd specialty items, prepared food, every gadget known to mankind, clothing, household trinkets, and pretty much anything you could possibly imagine. Fans of Somebody Feed Phil will want to visit the food stall Memelas Doña Vale and sample her world-famous savory pastry. Note: She’s only open until noon!
Google it and you’ll see two locations pop up. They are both worthwhile, but this one is the larger spot and features gobs of vintage clothing and goods. The other, located at C. Porfirio Díaz 617 near Mercado Sanchez also is worth a stop. The owner/buyer has a great eye for cool retro consignment and you’ll be tempted to clear out the racks.
Drinks here are over-the-top fancy looking (especially during Day of the Dead celebrations), but don’t let that fool you. This is serious and seriously bold mixology. Every cocktail is a massive flavor bomb. Spicy ones are truly spicy and if you are a tamarind fan, the eponymously named margarita is intense.
Acclaimed multi-course tasting menu experience in farm-to-table style. This restaurant has a reputation, and the service and price reflect that. I’ve had great meals here and ones that have disappointed me a bit for the payout. It’s worth rolling the dice.
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Day Nine
Follow the details and discover the story of alebrijes during the Perfect Day Trip section below.
Day Ten
Wrap up your Oaxacan experience with breakfast at Onnno Lonchería or Octoe Cocina and a leisurely stroll around the street-art central Jalatlaco neighborhood. Stop in at Armadillo Grafico for the perfect Oaxacan woodblock print for your walls. Catch a late afternoon flight home.
Delicious breakfast and lunch fare including fresh-baked breads and pastries (not easy to find in cafes in tortilla-centric places!). Here’s where you will find great avo toast and a bevy of sandwich options and specials.
Bright and welcoming with historic green and gold floor tiles and simple seating, Ocote unassumingly goes about its business of serving delicious, prettily plated food. Menu items include pizza and pasta, as well as updated takes on local faves. Open from 7:30-10:30 Ocote is equally solid for all three daily meals and offers one of the best versions of Chocolate Oaxaquena de Leche (hot chocolate) in town.
Although Oaxaca has many woodblock print shops, this one in Jalatlaco stands out with a cache of whimsical prints — often of animals and plants. The skill of the artists here is second only to the masters at Subterraneos.
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Centro Neighborhoods
If you decide to go the Airbnb route, the descriptions below give you a feel for each of the neighbors. I've stayed in both in Airbnbs and hotels in Oaxaca and don't really have a preference. But, if you plan to visit during Day of the Dead celebrations in late October/early November. . .book WAAAY in advance no matter which route you take.
Estrella
Hilly spot northwest of Centro. Great views of downtown from some Airbnbs with rooftops. Not much action, but only a 20-minute walk into the heart of Oaxaca.
Xochimilco
Just north of Centro but older and quieter with chic homes and some fab dining. This former weaver’s district is a picturesque enclave. It straddles the city’s ancient aqueduct and features brick arches and some truly inspired street art. If you can find an Airbnb here, book it!
Jalatlaco
Funky and uber colorful with windy cobblestone streets and quaint squares. The street art here is quirkier, edgier and larger scale.
Centro
(includes Hacienda & Luis Jimenez Figueroa) — in the heart of it all. Can be pricey and loud, but the best hotels are here if you can't find an Airbnb to your liking.
Reforma
Reforma is as local as it gets, but also lacks charm IMHO. It stands out for family-run restaurants specializing in traditional Oaxacan fare. If you enjoy being in the bustle of everyday life and away from other gringos, Reforma could fit the bill.
This luxury spot is a splurge, but you can't beat the location in the heart of it all. It's a truly stunning hotel in a former Spanish baroque convent (of all things) with a sparkling pool. The staff is friendly and attentive and everything is simply impeccable. Rooms feature gorgeous antiques, beds, and armoires evocative of Mexico's past — all dark wood and traditional metalwork. But the mattresses and bedding are modern and very comfortable and the rooms offer many expected amenities (TVs, plush robes, quality bath products). Five room options give you a bit of a choice on how much to splurge!
Cute and funky boutique hotel with breakfast included. Easy and artful, it embraces the city's vibe with its Zapotec influences and relaxing spaces. Huge and stylish rooms. Great value for money and right across the street from Boulenc, so lunch is just a few steps away!
Very clean and affordable with a rooftop deck that has great views into the heart of Centro. Stellar WIFI and decent water pressure make it among the better hostels.
Chic, boutique and architecturally pleasing, this modern place is quite expensive, but with some of the best service in town. A rooftop pool and tasty onsite restaurant fare also make the room rates easier to swallow.
With options ranging from private rooms to funky pod-like bunks, this newish welcoming hostel is a place to meet folks from around the world. A rooftop bar and lounge-like "Morocco meets Mexico" common space add to the ambience.
Although not my favorite, Ancestral has good Prehispanic-centric dishes. The best reason to go is its lovely tucked-away Xochimilco garden courtyard — which balances out its touristy feel and “servers in traditional dress” over-blown appeal. Meals are solid and tasty and the surroundings relaxing even if you won’t find locals dining here.
Standing out on a brightly lit Centro corner, Expendio Tradicion has a vibey energy and bustling service. It’s chic decor and reimagined Mexican fare tempt in the crowds which tips it toward trendy. Step right in and try the experimental cocktails and extensive mezcal list.
While the deli sandwiches are pretty good, the real reason to pop by Gourmand Deli is to grab the potato salad and broccoli salad to go. Devour them back at your rental with crusty bread from Pan Con Madre and/or a home-grilled burger. Another surprise — the carrot cake is top-notch and makes for a perfect post-burger postre (Spanish for dessert).
Although not Kyoto, the ramen is quite good and the sushi rolls are some of the best you’ll find in Oaxaca. What really makes this place shine is the funky fusion of cultures on the walls. The Japan meets Mexico murals are hella fun and make dining here a creative experience.
As a mountain town, seafood is not the primary culinary focus in Oaxaca. But if and when you desire it, this is the place to go. It’s also the only place that draws me back to the edge of Reforma, an area of town I don’t find particularly charming. The ceviche and fish tacos are remarkably good and the octopus dishes truly fabulous.
A fire-engine red taco cart with stools and a few tables, this place makes ridiculously rich and juicy, mostly meat-driven, heavily seasoned tacos and mixed rice platters. Cheap, very, very local and a twenty minute walk south of Centro. It's worth the jog across busy, dusty and continually under construction Route 175.
The best place to sit down for an evening or late-night meal of simple Oaxacan classics. What sets this place apart from its numerous competitors are the spectacular spicy salsas. The carne and chorizo tlayudas are rich and perfectly seasoned and you can’t go wrong with the Tostada Con la Cochinita Pibil. Even the vegetarian options have a decadent quality. Delicious and wallet-friendly.
Weavers, stitchers, and knitters will want to carve out time for this gem of a museum showcasing the embroidery and fabrics of the region. From garments to texile op art, exhibits embrace Oaxaquenos’ cultural ties to maker arts. MTO also holds workshops on dyeing with natural dyes, color trends, and more.
Dedicated to showcasing emerging talents as well as Mexico’s top photographers, the revolving exhibitions in this striking space are worth an hour or so. During my most recent visit, the seven small gallery rooms had expanded to include works that use mix media techniques as well as photos. Like the textile museum, the CFMAB offers classes and workshops, which range from basic photographic techniques to more specialized subjects.
The home of inexpensive Oaxaca souvenirs, this mercado is a buzzing hub of color and craft. Discover every gift imaginable to delight a gringo heart — flower headbands, lucha libre masks, embroidered purses, leather goods, traditional Oaxacan garments, cheap tee shirts, and more. From here, you can stroll straight through to the abutting Mercado 20 de Novembre (prepared food — especially smoked meats) and the Oaxaca Artisan Market (downmarket alebrije carvings) for even more visual stimulation and low-cost wares.
This small plaza and alleyway features an open-air craft market most days. Vendors are notoriously hit or miss and vary greatly in quality. It’s always worth a stroll through whenever you pass by. I bought a copper wire ring from a jewelry artist that I wear all the time, and another of my favorite independent wood print artists Laura Barragan (@l.surfistinha on Instagram) often has a booth. On weekends, you can catch indigenous musicians and dancers performing, and, periodically, witness a hip-hop showdown.
Buy the boss jean jacket of your dreams here. The meticulously embroidered beauties are one-of-a-kind and so very Oaxaca. Or, if you need to watch your wallet, funky costume jewelry, embroidered hats and shoes, scarves, and other clothing and accessories are much more affordable.
Walk in and you’ll recognize the excellence. I bought a pair of wine-colored sandals here that are the most comfortable I’ve ever owned. The straps hit in the right places and the durability is second to none. The family-run boutique also offers stylish and striking handmade leather purses, belts, and bags, as well as unique men’s shirts.
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Perfect Overnight Road Trip
1. Eat an early breakfast at Sagrado Filemon and order bread and pastries to go, as well. Pack pastries, water, a book, deck of cards, a swimsuit, towel, and a set of clothes for the next day.
Pet friendly and chill, this corner cafe is the epitome of laid-back. Enjoy some of the best espresso drinks in town along with yummy breakfast items, fresh pastries, decadent topping-heavy pizza, and inventive specials and desserts.
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2. Grab a rental from Renta de Autos Only and hit the road mid-morning going southeast on Route 190 toward Hierve el Agua.
Right in Centro, this local car rental has the best prices and a very friendly, helpful staff. We've rented from them four times, and while the cars are more utilitarian than luxury, that's what you need on the rough roads to Hierve el Agua!
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3. Resembling waterfalls, Hierve el Agua is one of only a handful of natural travertine rock formations of its kind in the world. It features a series of mineral pools. But more on that later. . .
Truly a MUST DO. This natural attraction has campy, quirky surroundings and a slight run-down feel when you first arrive. But don't let that fool you. The site is steeped in natural beauty and nothing short of magical in the early morning. Skip down to Steps 9-12 in this Perfect Day Trip section to learn how to make the most of an overnight here.
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4. Your first stop is much closer to town. About 35 minutes out of Oaxaca city, take a left off 190 onto Av. B. Juarez. Your destination is 10 minutes further up the road — Teotitlan del Valle, the pueblo famous for textiles and weaving.
Known for its weaving culture, Teotitlan also is simply a charming little town and a great place to stroll. If you are in the market for a rug or tapestry, you'll have your pick here. The main square features an historic small cathedral and lots of small boutiques. If you are visiting during December, the Christmas vibe here is not to be missed.
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5. Before entering town proper, pull over at the Issac Vasquez Gallery on the left for a free demonstration of weaving and natural dying techniques. Set amidst lovely floral courtyards, you can try your hand at spinning wool into yarn. The free tour ends in the rug and tapestry gallery where you will get a bit of a hard sell. Stay strong, there is so much more to see (and potentially buy) in town.
As long as you steel yourself for a bit of a hard sell, a stop here is fun and informative. The yarn crafting demonstration teaches you the traditional techniques of the Zapotecs — including how they created their original dyes (which is fascinating). The taller's grounds include a lovely garden and courtyard.
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6. Once in town, park near Iglesia Preciosa Sangre de Cristo and visit this winsome small central cathedral. Then stroll through the delightful streets. Boutiques and textile galleries abound, including the official artisan market, Mercado de Artesanias de Teotilan de Valle.
While most rugs and tapestries here tend to be traditional patterns and vibrant colors, you also can find more subtle prints and modern motifs. Just wander in and out of each shop and soak in the variety and various skill levels. It's a cheerful and absorbing experience.
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7. Don’t miss a stop at the Vida Nueva Women’s Weaving Cooperative as you peruse the many artisan stalls and shops.
Created out of necessity by a group of women more than 25 years ago, this marketing cooperative promotes the weaving work of local women. Weaving was not traditionally considered "women's work" in the past. But, a handful of local women created the cooperative when their husbands left town for migrant farm labor and never returned. It was born to support their livelihood — and still does!
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8. Grab a late lunch at one of the street carts at the food market across the cathedral’s courtyard. Or, enjoy a sit-down at Comedor Jaguar. Senora Isobel makes super tasty enchiladas.
Lovely Isobel and her husband run this family restaurant and shop and its like eating in their home. You won't taste better enchiladas anywhere (try either the red mole of the mole negro) and enjoy chatting with them as they serve you lunch. If they take a shine to you, they may divulge a few words of Zapotec.
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9. Get back on the road to Hierve el Agua (literally Spanish for ‘the water boils”), which is another hour southeast. If you are lucky, the main paved roads of Route 179 to Guerro Road won’t have roadblocks and you’ll breeze on through simply following Google Maps. If you do encounter a roadblock (due to local territory disputes — not an uncommon occurrence in Mexico) don’t despair! Simply map a route through the small town of Xagga and continue on the bumpy, but passable, dirt road up the windy hillside to the destination. We had to do this on our first visit and it was actually rather fun — even in a sedan!
10. Once you arrive at the Hierve el Agua grounds, inquire at the entrance about renting one of the site’s 10 or so basic cabanas (around 200 pesos/$10 per person). Minimalist, but clean, you get a bed and a basic bath, but it’s worth it. Not rentable in advance, you’re taking a chance, but on our first visit we were the ONLY ones to rent a cabana. Throw on your swimsuit, and try out the cold mineral pools in the afternoon heat. Refreshingly freezing, you’ll adjust quickly.
11. Grab a simple dinner and a giant michelada (or two) from one of the many food stands before the site closes for the evening. As the other visitors leave, the place takes on a bit of a ghost town vibe, but the stars are fabulous and the crowing roosters and distant barking dogs add to the experience. This is when the book and a deck of cards come in handy. Wake up early to a beautiful, slightly eerie and deserted place. Eat your Pan Con Madre pastries while you watch the stunning sunrise (see below), then hike the moderate, 1.6 mile loop trail down, around the petrified waterfall, and up again. Take tons of photos!
12. Finish your stay with another late-morning dip in the mineral pools and marvel at the views. Shower, change, turn in your key and you’ll be on the road back to Oaxaca City before the crowds descend.
13. Stop at the open air mezcal tasting room Riquezas De Oaxaca on your way back into the city. Located at the turnoff to Teotilan, you can’t miss it!
With English-speaking hosts and lots of bottles to sample, this roadside spot is a terrific place to further your mezcal education. It's also just super pleasant to relax outside in the light breeze while you slowly sip a smoky spirit and reflect on your Oaxacan experience so far!
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14. OPTIONAL: If you are an arborist, don’t miss the opportunity to see the massive and famous tree, Arbol del Tule, on your way back into town.
Located in the church grounds in the town center of Santa María del Tule, it's a 1400-year old Montezuma Cypress that measures the stoutest trunk in the world at 30.8 feet in diameter. Protected by a fence, you can peek through the slats and get a decent look at the "chico gordito".
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Perfect Day Trip
Motorbikes are a way of life in Latin America, and if you and/or your travel companion is comfortable driving one (or holding on tight), an exhilarating 50-minute scoot along route 175 to San Martin Tilcajete is the perfect day trip. Home to the internationally acclaimed Jacobo & Maria Angeles workshop, the small town is the epicenter of alebrije craft in Oaxaca.
1. Reserve your scooter by phone or online at the aptly named Rent-a-Scooter (Aldama 508, scooteroaxaca.com +529515943088, @scooteroaxaca). Use their website if your Spanish isn’t great. Alternatively, keep your car an extra day from your overnight trip, or rent bicycles if you‘re up for a 55 km round trip.
Well maintained and comfortable, these scooters work well for one or two people. The controls are easy-to-use and the shop offers a good selection of helmet sizes. Rent-a-Scooter’s office doubles as a rather lovely cafe and coffee shop, so you can grab a bite and/or a flat white before you hit the road.
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2. Map to San Martin Tilcajete’s town center, park and stroll the open-air market and alebrije shops lining the streets. A walk through town to the Angeles workshop passes photo-worthy street art dedicated to alebrijes and Zapotec symbols and styles. More contemporary pieces by Said Dokins (See photo below. Follow him on Instagram @saidokins) and other modern Mexican muralists also grace numerous walls.
While it was technically Mexico City-born artist Pedro Linares who first brought the alebrije (pronounced ah-lay-bree-hay) to the masses, San Martin has become a hot-bed of the craft — even extending the style to the town's street art. You'll see these tiny pieces of carved copal wood all over downtown Oaxaca City, but I advise you to wait until your visit to San Martin to purchase. The quality is simply a step above (especially at Jacobo & Maria Angeles' studio).
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3. Tour the Angeles studio and learn the ins and outs of this artisan artform, including sculpting techniques and the natural dying process. Watch (and film) artists at work and discover both your Zapotec spirit guide and protector (based on your birthday). Naturally, the large attached store features sculptures in all sizes.
Alebrijes are brightly colored sculptures of fantastical creatures. While this husband and wife team didn’t invent alebrijes, they elevated the copal-wood carving artform with their signature style. Employing relatives and numerous locals they have nurtured an industry of meticulously painting Zapotec symbols on tonas (animals of the Zapotec calendar) and Nahuales (animals blended with humans). Others followed suit and the quaint town features shop after shop of colorful sculptures ranging in size and quality.
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4. Stop directly across the street for a tasty lunch of memelas, quesadillas, or giant burrito-like tacos from the mother/daughter team running a casual, open-air cafe. Cooked over a comal, the local dishes rival any you’ll have in Oaxaca City.
5. Hop back on your motorbike for the ride home, stopping 10 miles out of Centro in San Bartolo Coyotepec — another small artisan town. Peruse the black pottery in shops along the roadway.
Specializing in black pottery, this artisan town is worth a short stop to browse the rows upon rows of ceramics that range in size from coffee cups to giant garden sculptures.
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6. Return mid-afternoon for a nap or a beer at La Santísima. Crown your very Oaxacan day with dinner at Restaurante Catedral and a cocktail and music on the rooftop at Cozana.
Tasty craft beer on tap. With only three small batch brews offered, they have to be good. And they are! If you are from New England, you'll be please at how well they nail the NEIPA. The tiny brewery also offers a delicious mead in lavender and vanilla. Pretty yummy burgers, as well if you need a nosh.
A true classic, this is THE best option for elevated traditional Oaxacan dishes, impeccable service (with a cotillion of balletic servers floating in and out) and a surprisingly good wine list for Mezcal country.
Trendy rooftop bar with delicious cocktails at a reasonable price. Sit back and enjoy the gorgeous views and DJ-driven electronica jams. The tunes often are accompanied by live musicians (I've seen both a drummer and a saxophonist on numerous occasions).
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When To Go
Almost any time of year is great in Oaxaca, but the rainy season finally wanes after mid-October and the late fall/early winter are warm and festive. Day of the Dead (October 28-Nov 2) and the Christmas Season (all December) are two terrific times to experience the wonder that is Oaxaca.
Safety
While far from the constant drug-cartel danger of border towns, or the pick-pocket hot spots of Cancun, Puerta Vallerta, and Tulum, it always pays to be smart and alert in Oaxaca City. An increase in tourist traffic (during festivals in particular) brings out the worst, and armed muggings can occur late at night and/or on quiet out-of-the-way streets with little traffic. Keep your valuables close always and take taxis in these late-night situations, particularly if you are staying on the edges of Centro. Don’t let fear drive you, just be aware and cautious.
Helpful Spanish
Learning Spanish will serve you well in general. It’s one of the most commonly spoken languages in the world and many folks in more out of the way places in Latin America only speak Spanish. English is spoken by many in Oaxaca, but you are just as likely to find a shopkeeper, server, or street vendor who doesn’t “habla ingles.” So, here are some of my opinionated language tips:
1. Download Duo Lingo or Babbel and practice every day. Barring that, the Google translate app does a decent (although far from perfect) job.
2. Consider taking Spanish classes locally. La Guarida Escuela Cooperativa de Español y Espacio Cultural offers terrific small classes, immersive conversation, and cultural experiences.
La Guarida Escuela Cooperativa de Español y Espacio Cultural
The kind and earnest teachers at this terrific small school will have you more confident in no time. The classes also are hecka fun and you will meet great locals and like-minded travelers. You also can select one-on-one sessions if you desire. Plus, the school offers cultural immersion experiences, such as group trips to the Abastos Market with a local and a journal-making workshop.
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3. Be polite: “Quisiera” (key-sera) means “I would like” and is a pleasant way to order in a restaurant or ask to try on something at a store. Another option is “Puede traer” (pwey-day try-air), which means “can you bring.” These are just friendlier ways of speaking than “Quiero” which means “I want.” Always end your requests with “por favor.”
4. Be current: Although some older generations may still use the term, referring to yourself as an “Americano(a)” is outdated. All Latin Americans are Americans. The term for someone from the United States (Estados Unidos) is “estadounidense” (ess-staa-do-ooh-knee-den-say).
5. Be careful: You may know that “caliente” means hot and “frio” means cold (Most folks know that “cerveza fria” means cold beer!). But when you are referring to body temperature, you say “Tengo” (I have) to refer to how you feel. “Tengo calor” means literally “I have heat” but it is the correct way that you indicate that you are hot. The more literal way to say “I am hot” — “estoy caliente” — means that you are “hot to trot” and can lead to laughter or unintended advances. Seriously!
6. Be safe. If you or a travel companion get hurt or need assistance, ask for help by saying “ayudame (eye-you-dom-may) por favor.” The quick way to explain what is wrong is to say “Me duele” (may dwell-lay), literally “I have pain” and point to the injured body part. If you are referring to your traveling companion, it is “Su duele” (sue dwell-lay).
7. Be aware: Although everywhere in Latin America, “disculpe” (diss-cool-pay) means “excuse me,” and “perdon” (peer-don) means “pardon,” folks in Oaxaca like to use the phrase “con permisso” (con purr-me-so), literally “with permission” to ask to pass you on the tiny sidewalks.
8. Be popular: Use these fun colloquialisms that will surprise the locals. “pan comido” (paan comee-do) means “it’s easy” or “piece of cake.” Turned off by something? “Guacala!” means “yuck!” Saying “dos, tres” (literally “two, three”) is slang for “more or less.” Finally, if you say “tu eres muy codo” (too air-es moo-ey coedoe) — literally “you are very elbow” — to your travel companion, you’ll crack up the guys in the bar for calling your pal a “cheap bastard”
My free and for-purchase itineraries and guides are action-packed and lean heavy on wayfaring (enjoying destinations by foot) and road trips. I specialize in travel for active, 40+ traveling couples who neither spend extravagantly nor journey on a shoestring. I know where to splurge and where to save, and will advise on the best way to thrive when on the road. I live and work from abroad 8 months of the year with my husband, Adam. The other four, I explore every last hiking trail in my home of Sedona, Arizona, USA. FYI — we rent out our home nightly via Airbnb and VRBO. Check out at sedona-vacation-home.com. I'm food-motivated and passionate about weird, little museums; explore by foot whenever I can — clocking miles on pavement, sand, and single track in places as diverse as Kyoto, Cartagena, and Tallinn. I balance my travel time returning to favorite spots (ANYWHERE in Japan; Oaxaca, Mexico; Siem Reap, Cambodia) and peeling back the layers of somewhere new. I'm available for hire as a travel consultant and I will continue producing very opinionated travel guides here on Thatch and publish my travel musings via posts and stories on Instagram via @wayfarerdawn and on my website wayfarerdawn.com.
