Sedona, Arizona: Insider Tips from a Local

Sedona, Arizona: Insider Tips from a Local

Sedona, Arizona is excruciatingly beautiful, but also quite expensive and, frankly, somewhat overhyped. As a local, I don't want you to leave disappointed. This guide includes my insights on how to do Sedona right. For example, some restaurants are worth the splurge. . .others aren't. Some hikes are overcrowded, but can be timed right and must not be missed. Others should be skipped altogether. Follow my insider tips and tricks to have the best Sedona vacation possible. Although this guide is free, I also offer a 30-minute planning consultation call for the area, which includes exclusive day trip itineraries for Flagstaff, The Grand Canyon, and a day (or two) in downtown Phoenix.
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Table of Contents:

1. Where to stay

2. Before you hit the trails

3. Where and when to hike 

4. What to do & see

5. Adventure tours and rentals

6. Where to eat & drink

7. Visit Verde Valley wine country

Where to Stay

Short-Term Rentals

Ambiente Sedona - A Landscape Hotel
@dawnhagin
West Sedona's luxury option, this place definitely is a BIG splurge. Every private suite here has a sleek modern look, and the views from the windows and rooftops are mind-blowing. The Adobe Jack Trail system is right onsite and that alone is worth a lot. If your bank account can handle it, you won't be disappointed. If it's a stretch for you, you'll feel like it is not worth it.
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A Sunset Chateau
@dawnhagin
Spacious rooms and a southwestern vibe rule at this West Sedona Inn. Guests rave about the breakfast (included) and the views. Located a bit off busy 89A, the chateau is quieter than most and worth the room rate.
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El Portal Sedona Hotel
@dawnhagin
Western vibes and lots of wood beams match the old school hospitality you'll receive at El Portal. Reasonably priced (for Sedona), you'll love the shaded courtyard with fire pit. Pet friendly!
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The Wilde Resort and Spa
@dawnhagin
Newly renovated and centrally located in West Sedona, The Wilde is expensive, but offers lots of resort services. Not my top choice, but worth looking at if you like an onsite spa and restaurant.
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Inn Above Oak Creek
@dawnhagin
Cozy and clean rooms with fireplaces and sweet surroundings nestled in a cove off Highway 179. While the furnishings and bathrooms are a bit dated, the beds are very comfortable and the staff top-notch. Priced well and walking distance to Tlaquepaque.
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The Tavern Hotel
@dawnhagin
Located outside Sedona in Old Town Cottonwood, you get a big bang for your buck here. Spacious, modern rooms, complimentary breakfast, and truly terrific package options for wine tasting and dinner.
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Before You Hit The Trails

Red Rock Pass

A Red Rock Parking pass is required at trailhead parking and in unattended vehicles on National Forest land around Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. While you can purchase a day pass at most trailheads for $5, if you are visiting for a few days and plan to hit a lot of trails, it’s worth considering a weekly ($15) or even an annual ($20) pass. To purchase weekly or annual passes locally in West Sedona, visit one of the sites below. Or, you can purchase from the Forest Service website with your car’s license plate info. 

a. Barlow Jeep Rental, 3009 W. State Route 89A

b. Bashas' Supermarket, 160 Coffee Pot Dr.

c. Circle K, 2570 W. State Route 89A

d. Courtyard by Marriot Sedona, 4105 W. State Route 89A

e. Enchantment Resort, 525 Boynton Canyon Rd.

f. Sedona Pines Resort, 6701 W. State Route 89A

g. The Villas at Seven Canyons, 755 Golf Club Way

All Trails App

If you haven’t already, I highly recommend getting the All Trails app on your phone. Lots of Sedona hikes have secret or not-well-publicized off-shoots that often are cooler than the main hikes. All Trails provides the skinny on turn offs and mile markers, and includes hiker commentary on various hikes. 

Where and When to Hike

Cathedral Rock Trail
@dawnhagin
A MUST if this is your first time to Sedona. And, in my opinion, the ONLY way to hike Cathedral is just before sunrise. First, it is the only time you’ll get a parking space (wait even an hour and you’ll be relegated to taking the shuttle). Second, hiking as it just starts to get light means you’ll be at the top at dawn — breathtaking (see photo). Third, you’ll feel accomplished as you head down while the hordes are heading up. Insider Tip: While you’ll see folks taking photos on the famous “look at me out here on the ledge” view spot to the right of the End of Trail sign, also turn left for a ways and then follow the off-shoot trail to the right. There is a rock scramble up another level that leads to even more spectacular views. Note: This hike is only 1.5 miles, but is super-vertical with a 750-foot elevation gain and requires lots of rock scrambling. Grippy boots or trail runners are essential. Do NOT bring your pup.
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Bear Mountain Trail
@dawnhagin
Appropriately named, this is the toughest hike in Sedona. Although not long, it features four false summits and parts that are VERY vertical. It truly is a bear of a hike. But, the views, which change and evolve with each level and switchback, are some of the most far-reaching and stunning in all of Sedona. Not up for something quite so challenging? Doe Mountain trail across the street (from the Forest Service parking lot for both hikes), is vertical(ish) but short, and offers panoramic views of its own. Bear Mountain: 4.6 miles return, 2100-foot elevation gain Doe Mountain: 1.5 miles return, 400-foot elevation gain
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Boynton Canyon (to Subway Cave)
@dawnhagin
I only recommend this hike if you can hit the trail very early and/or in off-season (January, monsoon season — mid-July through August). The uber-cool cave and Hopi ruins are popular (and very Instagrammable) and can get overrun. The 5.3-mile round trip hike itself is easy up until the short climb to the cave. The turn-off to the cave is easy to miss, so follow along on the All Trails app or ask someone heading back to the parking lot. NOTE: the parking lot gets full fast, which is another reason to head out early.
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Brins Mesa Trail (to Overlook)
@dawnhagin
The first part is a moderately challenging hike up to a plateau, which continues straight if you stay on the main trail, but we say veer off to the Overlook. Look for a trail spur to the right soon after you reach the plateau. The spur is “blocked” by a small stack of tree limbs. The All Trails app can help you find the right place. Follow the spur trail on up a gradual incline until you dead-end into a rock outcropping. Scramble up the rocks and be rewarded by 360-degree views of hoodoos, red rock ranges, and fields. Best of all — you’ll be alone or only one of a handful of folks there.
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Little Horse Trail (to Chicken Point)
@dawnhagin
A great, easy-to-moderate, 3.6 mile return hike for the whole family — even your furry friend. Parking can be challenging as the lot serves the Bell Rock Trail, as well, which is a popular starting point for numerous mountain biking trails. As always, get there early to ensure parking or you will be circling and stalking. The trail winds up through forested areas and offers views of the Chapel of the Holy Cross midway, and 360-degree views at the top at Chicken Point. The giant rounded rocks at Chicken Point are a wonderful spot to have a picnic if you don’t mind schlepping up sandwiches and snacks. If hiking really isn’t your bag, you can reach this area in a jeep on a Pink Adventure Tour.
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Hiline Trail
@dawnhagin
This out-and-back is a great hike as you can make it as long or short as you like. AND — even the shorter versions have truly stunning views of the Bell Rock and Cathedral Rock in the distance. The start is a tad steep for a bit, but it levels out and becomes rather easy and truly breathtaking. Once you hike about an hour you arrive at a plateau with distant views to the left and right. This is a great spot to turn-around if you’re keeping it more about the surroundings than the sweat. If you want more exercise, follow the trail down the hillside, across the valley, and up Cathedral Rock itself. Stunning. NOTE: The trailhead of Hiline is a tad hard to find as you need to follow two other trails a bit to get to the starting point. Park at Yavapai Point off of the Red Rock Highway. Take the Yavapai Trail to the Slim Shady Trail to the start of Hiline. You can see this route well on Google Maps.
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Teacup Trail (to Thunder Mountain)
@dawnhagin
If you rent my Airbnb (see "where to stay" above), this trail is just a short walk from the front door. Teacup Trail is the main trail leading from the Sugarloaf Trailhead parking lot. Follow Teacup to take a left onto Thunder Mountain Trail (you’ll see the signs) and hike up and down and around along the edge of Thunder Mountain. This forested, moderate trail is just lovely and also great for trail running. After a while you’ll reach the turnoff to Upper Chimney Rock Pass. This short but steep section is tough. Follow Chimney Rock up to the top and enjoy fantastic views in both directions. Head back down and retrace your steps, or follow the Andante trail back. Total distance from the house and back is 4 miles. OPTION: Divert over to the Amitabha Stupa & Peace Park by taking the Stupa Trail from Thunder Mountain.
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Devil's Bridge Trail
@dawnhagin
The quintessential Sedona Instagram-famous hike. For many, this is a must-do on their trip to Sedona. But all that fame comes at a cost — crowded parking overflowing onto the street, an overcrowded trail, and a long line to wait in for that iconic photo. Our take? DON’T BOTHER. No really, don’t. This hike has gotten soooooo over exposed and you’ll most likely wait an hour (or more) with every “influencer” under the sun for one photo. It’s not worth it and you’ll miss out on other great hikes! If, and it’s a BIG if, you are visiting in the very off season OR you wake up super-early and have already hiked Cathedral Rock, then maybe attempt it. Maybe.
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What To Do & See

Chapel of the Holy Cross
@dawnhagin
Whether your interest is sacred or simple curiosity, this tiny but architecturally special chapel is a must. Built into the red rocks on an outcropping, it provides inspiration, introspection, and incomparable views. Completed in 1956.
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Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site
@dawnhagin
The largest and best preserved petroglyph site in Red Rock Country, This must-see heritage site consists of 1,032 petroglyphs in 13 panels and I rarely see anyone else around when I visit. The rangers who work here are incredibly insightful and full of stories.
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Exposures International Gallery of Fine Art
@dawnhagin
The chicest art gallery in Sedona with hundreds of paintings, sculptures, and exceptional jewelry from artists both local and international. Take your time and see it all. Pair a stop here with a morning hike of Little Horse Trail and lunch at The Hudson.
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Old Town Cottonwood
@dawnhagin
About 20 minutes south of Sedona off 89A lies Old Town Cottonwood. Stretching four or five blocks on Main Street are top-notch restaurant options (Colts Grill, Crema, Bocce), eclectic boutiques, art galleries, and a few overflowing antique shops. The vibe is a combination of Old West and Midcentury Retro and is super relaxed. If you didn’t have enough time to visit the wineries along Page Springs Road, you can stop and sip at the many tasting rooms here, as well.
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Out of Africa Wildlife Park
@dawnhagin
This expanded wildlife habitat just 35-minutes south of the house in Camp Verde may seem out of place in Arizona, but the climate is perfect for these creatures. Many of the animals here have been rescued from a desperate and hopeless fate. According to the park, “Some of the animals in our charge were previously abandoned, abused, illegally obtained, or confiscated. When release was no longer possible, all of these animals had one thing in common — they needed a home where they could be assured a life of safety, veterinary care, love, and enrichment.” Go on a Safari Tour and get kissed by a giraffe.
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Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village
@dawnhagin
Named after a small Mexican city, this charming shopping and dining center looks like a south-of-the-border village, too. It features numerous art galleries, jewelry shops, and other high-end boutiques. Flamenco music and dancing, Day of the Dead celebrations and Christmas season lighting ceremonies, are just a few of the events held every year at Tlaquepaque.
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Slide Rock State Park
@dawnhagin
Outrageously popular for its famous swimming holes with sections to slip-slide through the Oak Creek current (hence the name “slide rock”), this is a perfect family outing on a hot day. It’s extremely hard to get into during high season, so, as with all our suggestions, get there early. The least croded I've seen it is right after Labor Day weekend.
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Verde Canyon Railroad
@dawnhagin
Scenic landscapes and fascinating western history from knowledgable guides on a slow-moving train ride through verde canyon. Plus, cocktails and snacks. What's not to love? Outdoor cars offer views and photo ops. Indoor assigned seats provide comfort and respite from the heat.
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Adventure Tours & Rentals

Barlow Jeep Rentals
@dawnhagin
If you are DYI and adventurous, get behind the wheel of trail-prepped Jeep Wrangler yourself with Barlow. Rent one to explore on your own, take one of their guided offroad trips, or learn technical 4WD skills from certified instructors. Barlow offers rentals for as short as 24 hours and up to 7 days.
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Guidance Air - Sedona
@dawnhagin
Consistently voted one of the best helicopter tours in the country by USA Today, Guidance Air offers 5 different premier helicopter tours over Sedona, as well as trips to The Grand Canyon and beyond. With Guidance Air, you are GUARANTEED a window seat. You can even choose from an intimate 2-person tour for that added air of high-flying romance. Guidance pilots and staff are super-friendly and accommodating and will work with you to craft an unforgettable experience.
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Red Rock Balloons
@dawnhagin
Soar gently in the wind over Sedona as you watch the morning sun rise and shine over the red rocks. Although costly at $350 per person, these one-in-a-lifetime hot air balloon experiences are truly a magical way to see and digitally capture the beauty of Sedona. Red Rock Balloons is the highest-rated balloon company in town on Google. And, in our opinion, has the prettiest balloons.
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Pink Jeep Tours
@dawnhagin
If you don’t want to tackle the rutty roads in your own (or rented) Jeep or 4WD, this outfit will get you out in the rocks in a tour group. Pink Adventure is the safest, most trusted tour company of any outfitter in the Southwest and South. Founded right here in Sedona and expanded to numerous destinations, Pink guides are enthusiastic and expertly trained (in Smith System Driver Safety, CPR and First Aid). The company features a wide variety of tours in Sedona and nearby environs to choose from; their most extreme and well-known being the Broken Arrow tour. They also charter adventures to the Grand Canyon, and to a number of the Indegenious Peoples heritage sites, and more.
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Thunder Mountain Bikes
@dawnhagin
From top-of-the-line carbon bikes, to starter mountain bikes and more, this is THE place to rent a mountain bike and gear, or repair the bike you brought with you. With more than a decade of service to the Sedona community, the workers here are mountain bike enthusiasts and have lots to say about all the trials. Chat ‘em up! They also provide a wealth of trail information on their website and highly recommend two tour companies: Hermosa and Sedona Mountain Bike Academy.
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Where to Eat & Drink

From wood-fired pizza to dinner with a view, from juicy burgers to elevated Mexican fare, Sedona offers dining experiences for every palate and craving. But the town also features a lot of overpriced tourist traps and places that just aren't worth the cost. I've included only my favorites because Sedona is not cheap and, if you are going to pay, it should be on quality! Also — a local distillery and the best brewery in town.

Elote Cafe
@dawnhagin
The best restaurant in town in my humble opinion. Elote serves up inspired, high-end regional (Sonoran style) Mexican fare and, of course, spectacular margaritas. The complimentary chips (thin, warm, and crisp) and salsa (smoky chipotle) are plopped in front of you as soon as you sit down and will have your eyes rolling back in your head. Currently reservation-only, be SURE to book a table as soon as possible — usually 30-60 days out on their website via OpenTable.
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Pump House Station Urban Eatery and Market
@dawnhagin
A funky, very Sedona spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tucked away next to the obnoxiously purple Center for the New Age, Pump House also offers yummy baked goods, fantastic coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. Enjoy your meal inside the eccentrically designed dining room or on the patio overlooking a lush landscape. While this is a very popular breakfast/brunch locale (Benedicts and killer Bloody Mary’s — just sayin’), we think the eatery’s dinner also shines. Try the Brick Chicken.
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Mesa Grill Sedona
@dawnhagin
Truly our go-to, this airport bistro is consistently delicious. Airport, you ask skeptically? Yes! Remember, Sedona’s tiny airport is not in just any location. At the top of a mesa, the red rock views are vast and you’ll feel the buzzy vibe of adventure with your front-row seat to sleek jets and prop planes flying in and out. Try the Crispy Fish and Chips (made with snapper) or the Carolina Pulled Pork. The vegan bowl is one of my favorite dishes in town and I’m far from vegan! Local craft beers on tap. Oh, and the Mesa Grill also is great for breakfast, brunch, or lunch. You just can’t go wrong here.
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Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill
@dawnhagin
Yes, it is overpriced in a town of already overpriced places, but the outdoor patio at Mariposa offers THE most jaw-dropping view in town. We recommend going for lunch OR cocktails and appetizers at sunset on their covered patio. Reservations a must. Upscale South-American inspired cuisine.
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Butterfly Burger
@dawnhagin
Expensive, but creative and delicious specialty burgers in a sexy, moody bar in the Village of Oak Creek. Sounds odd, but it really works! Try the Tater Tots with Charred Tomato Ketchup as a starter. The boozy shakes also are marvelous. I have a hard time not ordering the Gringo Burger or The Waco Kid, and Adam loves the Fungi Sublime. But, ALL are good. Pretentious or discerning? Does it really matter as long as the burgers are bangin’?
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Pizzeria Bocce
@dawnhagin
Chic indoor/outdoor restaurant and bar located on Main Street in Old Town Cottonwood. This award-winner serves up a Long Island vibe and some of the best pizza and classic Italian antipasti in Northern Arizona. Try the grilled artichoke and Bocce Balls (aka sausage and chicken meatballs).
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Tamaliza
@dawnhagin
Family-owned, counter-service style Mexican restaurant known for house-made tamales. Good option for lunch or brunch after a hike, and you can brush up on your Spanish (or not). NOTE: They close at 7 pm.
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Senor Bob's Burgers, Hot Dogs & More
@dawnhagin
If you are looking for a gastronomically gratifying “basic diner” burger, this West Sedona joint fits the bill. And, the dogs are delicious, too. Homemade buns and crunchy hand-cut fries are made fresh daily. A 10-minute walk from my rental house, it’s easy to wrap in a visit with a movie at either Harkins stadium-seat theater or the Mary Fischer (Sedona Film Festival) theater. And. . .Rocky RD Ice Cream (also highly recommended) is right next door. Note: it closes at 6 pm, so it's meant for lunch or early dinner/take away.
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The Hudson
@dawnhagin
In a nutshelll, The Hudson serves large portions of sophisticated comfort food and in a chic, contemporary setting. Plus, you’ll get amazing views of Uptown Sedona and the red rocks beyond from any seat — especially from the patio. Mix in a great cocktail program and stellar service and you are in for a lovely lunch or dinner.
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Rocky RD Ice Cream Co
@dawnhagin
A local mom-and-pop shop, Rocky RD Ice Cream Co. offers super-creamy artisanal ice cream. Available in a variety of flavors you’ll find it hard to decide which one should melt down the side of your freshly baked waffle cone. I LOVE the peanut butter-chocolate. While the flagship store is in the Village of Oak Creek, their second location is in Harkins Theater Plaza — just down the hill from my rental house and near the West Sedona hotels mentioned here. Plus, it's next door to Senor Bob’s (see burgers). Decadently convenient.
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Sedona Memories Café
@dawnhagin
Delicious and GINOURMOUS sandwiches made with house-made bread. Super-cute seating area out front on a nice day (which is most days in Sedona). My husband adores the Italian and won't order anything else. I like most everything on the small, but spot-on, list.
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Basecamp - Sedona Beer Company
@dawnhagin
Tasty food and the best locally brewed beer in town. The flagship is in Uptown and certainly worth a stop if you want lunch and are in the middle of the tourist throng, but I prefer the brewery's second location off Dry Creek Road. With expansive views of the red rocks from the lighted patio and a tasty resident food truck, this relaxed spot is my favorite place to chill with a local brew. If you’re a sour fan, the Haterade is crisp and refreshing, and IPA lovers will revel in the hoppiness of the crazily named Unsupervised Children.
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Redwall Distillery & Lounge
@dawnhagin
Locally distilled whiskey, gin and vodka for the tasting or in cocktails. Comfy couches and Adirondack chairs dot the patio and face an expansive view of Thunder Mountain. Local musicians often play. The perfect way to begin or end an evening out in Sedona.
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Visit Verde Valley Wine Country

Verde Valley is one of the fastest growing wine regions in the country and with a climate much like Italy's Calabria's region, you'll find lots of Italian varietals here. While our favorite area winery (see Salt Mine Wines below) is a bit of a drive and off on its own, The Page Springs Road area is a just a 20-minute scooch down 89A. 

1. Page Springs Road Wineries

Page Springs is a sun-dappled, windy drive along the Verde River in the lush Verde Valley and features the local wineries with the most picturesque settings. Two must-stops are the sprawling DA (Dancing Apache) Ranch and the culinary-focused Page Springs Cellars. Both offer surprisingly lovely small batch wines. Get over the price-to-value sticker shock and just enjoy. If you are making a day of it, Javelina Leap Winery, Oak Creek Vineyards, and Cove Mesa Vineyards can round out the schedule. But, these first two are musts.

DA Ranch
@dawnhagin
With a log-style ranch house surrounded by vast porches, DA is the place to start. Kick back and sip through the tasting menu while reclining on the porch or numerous adirondacks scattered throughout the property. Play a few rousing games of horseshoes or corn hole. Stroll around the pond and say hi to the goats. Weekends feature local music. Check the website for opening hours as this place is a popular private event locale: daranch.com
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Page Springs Cellars
@dawnhagin
This appropriately named winery is the other “must visit” (along with DA Ranch) on Page Spring Road. Plan a late lunch here. The appetizer-rich menu is delicious. Our faves are the Smoked Salmon Mason Jar Rillete, Truffle Kettle Chips, and Shisito Peppers, but the massive cheese boards and everything else is scrumptious. Walk through the grapevine archway to the creek and watch the water burble over the rocks.
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Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery
@dawnhagin
This Page Springs Road winery features lots of rich red varietals, so it’s worth a stop if you like ‘em juicy! Javelina Leap often has live music on the weekend. On a personal note, I've never found the tasting room staff here very welcoming, but maybe it's just me.
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Oak Creek Vineyards & Winery
@dawnhagin
This pup friendly Page Springs Road winery is an option if others are overcrowded, but I've never bought a bottle from here. . .so take that as you may.
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Cove Mesa Vineyard Winery Tasting Room
@dawnhagin
Located where Page Springs Road dead ends into Cornville Road, Cove Mesa is one of the newer wineries in the area and offers nice, subtle wines. This lovely new tasting room is definitely worth a stop.
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2. Our Favorite Area Winery

Salt Mine Wine
@dawnhagin
A bit further afield in the heart of Camp Verde town, this winery is hands down our favorite in the area. What it lacks in scenery it makes up for with quality. The wines are truly delicious and will change your mind about Arizona wine in general. The terroir in the Verde Valley is perfect for Italian varietals and the Salt Mine winemaker, Kevin, concentrates on these almost exclusively. You will most likely meet Kevin or members of the Norton family (and their pups) who own and run the place. Plus, the prices are super-reasonable, both for the tastings and for the bottles themselves. This is the place to purchase. If the Aglianico Rose is available, try it and BUY IT!
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3. Old Town Cottonwood Wineries

Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria
@dawnhagin
Located (as the name suggests) at the top of a hill in Old Town Cottonwood, this massive winery, restaurant and bar is full of light and has a hip vibe and soaring ceilings. The center “galley” of tables (between dining guests) serves as the tasting area. Choose between white, red, rosé, and even sparkling wines from local and southern Arizona vineyards. While the wines are not my fave, the views are 100!
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Rubrix Wines
@dawnhagin
Chic winery and tasting room located next to Bocce Italian restaurant in Old Town Cottonwood (see What to Eat & Drink). Healthy tasting pours and juicy, fruit-forward wines will impress you and the comfy couches and light-filled space will welcome you to stay and sip for a while. A true stand-out, and also a great afternoon hang before an early dinner next door.
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* * *
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
My free and for-purchase itineraries and guides are action-packed and lean heavy on wayfaring (enjoying destinations by foot) and road trips. I specialize in travel for active, 40+ traveling couples who neither spend extravagantly nor journey on a shoestring. I know where to splurge and where to save, and will advise on the best way to thrive when on the road. I live and work from abroad 8 months of the year with my husband, Adam. The other four, I explore every last hiking trail in my home of Sedona, Arizona, USA. FYI — we rent out our home nightly via Airbnb and VRBO. Check out at sedona-vacation-home.com. I'm food-motivated and passionate about weird, little museums; explore by foot whenever I can — clocking miles on pavement, sand, and single track in places as diverse as Kyoto, Cartagena, and Tallinn. I balance my travel time returning to favorite spots (ANYWHERE in Japan; Oaxaca, Mexico; Siem Reap, Cambodia) and peeling back the layers of somewhere new. I'm available for hire as a travel consultant and I will continue producing very opinionated travel guides here on Thatch and publish my travel musings via posts and stories on Instagram via @wayfarerdawn and on my website wayfarerdawn.com.
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