Madeira - a 12-day itinerary - Budget/slowtravel
Some practicalities
Weather
The weather in Madeira is very unstable.
They say the best time to travel to Madeira is around May, when all the flowers are blossoming. It isn't called 'Flower Island' for no reason! I travelled in the end of october/beginning of november and only had rain once. I still had some time at the beach and even burned once. Overall it is very humid. While it can be hot at the coastline, in the mountains it can be more cool, and rainy. It gets cold during the night up there, believe me
Clothing tip: Layers, layers, layers.
Public transport
As I mentioned in my introduction, I prefer public transport to get around. Not only is it cheaper than renting a car, it is a great way to see the country in a different way. I even met some amazing people on the bus.
I would recommend buying your ticket at a ticketcounter on 'Avenida do Mar', this is where most of the busstations are. They have deals/ daytickets/weektickets which is even cheaper than always buying your ticket on the bus.
You must know, the bussystem in Madeira first looked a bit confusing to me. There are several buscompanies, each bringing you to different destinations.
1. Horários do Fuchal: These citybusses help you get in and out Funchal (suburbs) and to tourist attractions near the city. (Botanical gardens, Monte, ...)
2. SAM and EACL: These bussystems take you to the east. For example back to the airport, Machico, Porto da cruz and São Lourenco.
3. Rodoeste: If you want to go to the westside of the Island, the Rodoeste busses are the ones you need to look out for.
Through the underneath link you'll find a overview and the links to the different companies. The app 'Rome2Rio' will help also :).
Funchal
Funchal is the main city of Madeira. The city is vibrant, but still very cosy. What I liked about it are the small houses. There are no very big apartment blocks or skyscrapers ruining the view.
Since Madeira is so small I would recommend staying in Funchal for half of the trip. The busses will take you to the other side of the island in about 3 hours. On top of this, Funchal offers evening/nightlife (bars, restaurants,...) which I didn't (always) find in other places. When travelling solo this is easier to meet new people.
I stayed in Hostels in Funchal for the first part of my trip. During this trip I discovered the south and east side of the Island. The second part of my trip I stayed at Sao Vicente in the North to discover the Northern and West part of the country.
Apps that might come in handy
1) Rome2Rio:
Great app telling you which bus to take, with timetable!
2) WalkMe:
Hiking app with focus on Madeira. It shows you some hikingtrails for free. The maps can be used offline.
3) Alltrails:
Also an hiking app, giving you detailed information about the trails. I prefer this one.
4) Hostelworld:
App showing you all the available hostels nearby.
Wildcamping
Since January 2022 'wildcamping' is permitted. There are spots indicated where you can put your tent. The only thing you have to do is reservate a spot online with the Regional Forest Directorate. You can find the link below. It is totally free. Plusside: you can wake up with the most beautiful views!
You will have to pay a fine if you don't have a permit and the guards come to check. I never encoutered them, but maybe in high season they will come more often. I also saw a lot of people wildcamping not on the indicated spots.
Hitchhiking
Sometimes not every spot is easily reachable by bus. For example to start the famous hike from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. Or you're in the situation when it's evening and the busses don't drive anymore. Since Madeira does not have many highways, the chances of a car taking you is big. I did it three or four times and within 10 minutes I had a free ride to my exact destination.
Airport
Every hour there is a bus that takes you from the airport to the city centre of Funchal. Price: 5 Euro.
Day 1: Discovering Funchal
Funchal is a city that has a lot to offer! From botanical gardens, a port, the mercado dos lavradores, restaurants, casino, bars, .. you name it!
Mercado dos Lavradores
You can start the day with exploring 'mercado dos lavradores'. It is a market in the city centre where you can find a lot of fruits, spices and souvenirs. Everything together gives an impressive and beautiful colorshow. You can taste different fruits, fruits you've never heard about!
Since it is a touristy place, the vendors tend to give a higher price. Don't be afraid to ask for a lower price. Another trick they use is giving you more fruit than you ask for (but you have to pay for it). I have experienced it myself, so check your purchase!
Map:
Botanical Gardens
The botanical gardens are known for their marvelous views overlooking Funchal and the Atlantic Ocean. you can discover over 2500 different exotic plants. The best time to visit is between april and august since all the flowers are blossoming then. Madeira isn't called 'Flower Island' for no reason. I visited the botanical garden in november and even then, I found it beautiful.
Bus Funchal - Botanical garden:
After strolling down the market, you can take a bus (+/-20 min) to the botanical gardens. The gardens are a bit uphill so hiking there would be a challenge (+/-50 min).
At Avenida do Mar take bus 31A at the direction of Teleférico J. Botanico. After +/- 10 minutes stop at 'Jardim Botânico S '. You will only have to walk 1 minute from here. Price 1-2 euros.
Entrance fee:
6-15 euros, depending if you buy a ticket for the cable car to Monte (see next stop). I would recommend buying it together since this is cheaper.
Opening Hours:
From October 1 to April 29 the opening time are from 9 AM to 5 PM (last entry at 4.30 PM)
From April 30 to September 30 the opening times are from 9 AM to 7 PM (last entry at 7.30 PM)
After visiting the Botanical Garden you can go to Monte By Cablecar. Make sure you buy the Cable car ticket at the entrance of the botanical garden. this is cheaper than buying it at the ticket office of the cable car.
Map:
Monte - Going down by wicker basket
There are not many places in the world where you can sledge (!!) down from the hills down to the city. In Monte everything is Possible.
Hunderd years ago the people of Monte wondered if there was a faster way to travel from Monte to the city of Funchal. The steep streets made it hard for the horses and cart to go down at a fast pace. Someone came up with the idea of a sledge and the rest is history. Now it is a tourist attraction, a once in a lifetime experience.
It is a 2km long ride starting in Monte, bringing you to Livramento, a suburb of Funchal. From there it is only a 20 min hike back to the city centre (straight down). There are other options like taxi and bus.
Price: (18/07/2023)
1 person - 27.5 Euro
2 persons - 35 Euros
3 persons - 52.50 Euros
Opening hours:
9 a.m. to 17:45
Tips:
2) It is a cool but touristy attraction so keep in mind that you'll have to wait. I went in november (low season) and had to wait in line for 1.5 hours. However, I did not go at opening time which I recommend. You cannot reserve in advance.
Strolling down Avenida do Mar
To end the day you can stroll down the promenade next to Avenida do Mar. There are many small street vendors selling food, drinks and snacks. If you're lucky the street musicians fill the promenade with their local music.
Buy some smoked chesnuts, a local treat, and enjoy sunset at the port.
Map:
Recommendations Funchal:
Hostel:
Luch/bar and restaurant:
Other recommendations:
Day 2: Canyoning
Why not start the adventure immediately?
Madeira is know for its lush green forests en waterfalls because of the humid and sometimes, in the mountains, rainy climate. By canyoning you get the chance to see untouched nature, drink pure water right of the waterfalls and expand your boundaries. Famous in Madeira are the "levadas", irrigation systems that where build from the 1500's to water the soil in the South of the Island. While canyoning you get to follow them down from the mountain.
Epic Madeira:
Epic Madeira is an organization that organizes canyoning, coasteering and climbingtours. From pick up at your ho(s)tel to dropping you off, everything is arranged.
Depending on which level and experience you choose the duration of the daytrip changes. I didn't know what level to choose so I just asked the people of Epic Madeira. I've only did canyoning once when I was younger. Since I am sportive and in my twenties they recommended me to do the intermediate tour, which was perfect!
I loved everything about this activity from professionality of the guides to the good communication and materials. 100% would recommend.
Price:
Check the prices through the link above. Between 60 and 175 euros, depending on the tour and level you choose. This activity is somewhat more pricy for the budget traveler, but is is definitely worth it. It is the most expensive activity I did during my stay in Madeira.
Duration:
+/- 5 to 8 hours, also depending on which tour you take.
Day 3-4: Camping at São Lourenco
Start the day with a great breakfast. See the recommendations in Funchal above (Day 1 - recommendations). I've not been there but Rosa, the sweetest host of Hostel 109 recommended Pão e Companhia. A local shop with good breakfast. I believe Rosa if she says the "Queijadas" are the best.
Now, are you ready for your first hike and wildcamping experience in Madeira?
If so, hiking at São Lourenco is definitely a must. The trail brings you to the most eastern point of Madeira. It is 7 km long and has several stunning viewpoints. Since you have a great view of the ocean 100% of the time it is well known for it's beautiful sunset and sunrise. Ideal for camping, if you ask me! My advice is to go in the afternoon and take your time. There are 2 beaches where you can relax on the way.
From Funchal to the startingpoint:
From Funchal, at the Avenida do Mar, you can take bus 113 in the direction of Baía d'abra (SAM bussystem). It will take you around 1.10 hours to get there and cost you between 3-5 euro. Check the timetable the day before because this bus does not drive every hour. The drop off point in Baía d'abra is also the starting point of the trail.
Distance:
7km if you make the complete loop. If you want to camp, it is only 3.5km to the campsite. the next day you can hike the other 3.5km back to the startingpoint. the road is very clear, no possibility of going the wrong way.
Duration
My advice is to go in the afternoon and take your time. There are 2 beaches where you can relax on the way. Without breaks it will only take around 1 hour. It is perfect to do this in the late afternoon, so you can put up your tent and enjoy the sunset.
Incline
Overall this is not an hike with much steep ups and downs. The official incline is 427 meters, including the last part which is the steepest (Miradouro Ponta do Furado). This part actually is inaccessible due to low maintenance, but still a lot of people do it.
Campsite
There is a spot next to the hiking trail where you can put your tent (see exact location down below). There is a little bar - Casa do Sardinha - at the end of the trail which closes at 5p.m. So make sure to bring your food/ gascilinder and gamel. Don't forget to reserve your spot!
Map
The next day
The next day, when you've watched the beautiful sunrise, you can return to Baía d'abra and take a bus back to Funchal.
Day 5-6: Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and back
One of the most famous hikes on the Island is the hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak of Madeira. With its 1862 meters, it is a famous hike to do at sunsrise or sunset.
I did this hike with a friend I met during my trip, and the only thing we could say was 'Omg, this is so beautiful'. Because, in fact, it is the most beautiful hike we ever did. Hiking above the clouds and the clouds slowly moving over/in between the mountains made it phenomenal!
It is one of the most famous trails on the island, so expect a lot of other tourists. Sometimes given the small paths, it is difficult to cross eachother.
Distance: 6 km
Duration: 3.5hours
incline: 1.231 m
Time to start hiking:
Since you will be camping here, it is best to start around 2 p.m. It takes around 3 hours to get to the top, so you will be on time to put up your tent and enjoy the sunset.
Weather:
Please make sure to check the weather before you take off. If it will rain continuously I do not recommend doing the hike, since there are steep and small (sometimes slippery) pathways.
How to get there?
Since Pico do Arieiro is not reachable by bus, the best thing to do is
(1) Hitchhike. Since it is a famous route and a lot of people are heading this way, the chances meeting someone that wants to take you are big. Just put yourself at a smart location to find yourself a driver. I did it this way up and down. Succeeded with ease!
The hikingtrail:
You can use the app Alltrails to find more information about the route. Overall the road is pretty clear, not easy to get lost.
Camping:
Once you reach Casa de Abrigo do Pico Ruivo, you know you are almost there. From here It only takes 15 to 20 minutes to reach the top. Follow the indications. At one point you can choose to go up, to the peak of pico Ruivo, and go right in de direction of Santana. First go right for only 200 meters. There you find the campsite where you can put your tent and drop your stuff before climbing the last bit to the top. You can find the exact location down below. Don't forget to reserve this spot!
Do you spot my tent in the picture below? :-)
Cooking with a view, am I right?!
Don't forget your poncha to celebrate when you reach the top ;-).
Map
The way back to Pico do Arieiro:
I chose to hike the same way back since I left some stuff in Funchal that I had to pick up. Because of the clouds and mist the day before I had the feeling I was hiking a totally different hike!
There is a bar at Pico do Arieiro where you can enjoy a wel deserved cup of coffee and some delicious food. I hitchhiked back to Funchal. In only 5 minutes three lovely people of Lithuania took me back tot the city center.
If you are extra adventurous, there are other hikes going to the different side of the island starting at Pico Ruivo.
Tips
1) Take a headlight with you. There are a lot of dark tunnels you will have to go through. A headlight will come in handy!
2) Make sure your backpack is not to heavy. There are a lot of small pathways and high steps you will have to take. The lighter the bag, the more pleasant the hike.
3) Don't forget to take enough water with you: water for the way up and back the next day. If you need to cook your food, bring some extra water. In casa de Abrigo there is the opportunity to buy drinks, but it is pricey.
4) Bring enough clothes. It can get pretty cold up there! Make sure your sleeping bag is warm enough.
Day 7: Ponta do Sol - Cascata dos Anjos
Ponta do Sol
Ponta do Sol, translated 'cape of sun', is known for being the hottest spot on the Island. Therefore it is the ideal spot for bananaplantages and growing sugar cane (The local drink Poncha is made with this). In addition, Ponta do Sol is known for it's architecture: cosy streets and old buildings.
There are a lot of activities to do. I will put some recommendations down below. I chose to take a quiet day and relax on the beach, have some diner, explore the village and hike to Cascata dos Anjos. I had dinner at Restaurante Sol Poente, good food and an even more beautiful view!
From Funchal to Ponta do Sol (and back):
You can take bus 107 (Rodoeste bussystem) at Avenido do Mar. it wil take you between 50min and 1 hour 40min to get there. Depending on which time you take the bus, the bus takes longer or not. Check the app Rome2Rio for exact timetable. It will cost you 2-4 euros per person.
(!) If you want to take the bus back to Funchal, please take in mind that the last bus is around sunsettime ( around 6p.m.). Check Rome2Rio for exact timings. If you want to enjoy sunset, you can hitchhike back or take a taxi. This will cost you around 18 euros. You can also try to find a hostel but after some research I didn't find any cheap hostel, that's why I chose to stay in Funchal.
Cascata dos Anjos
Maybe you've seen this waterfall already on Instagram. It is a famous one because it ends directly on the street. If you go by car, you can drive through it! Ideal timing is a sunny day at sunset. When the light hits the water, it gives this amazing glow.
Warning! It is a touristy place, so expect yourself on a lot of people wanting to take a picture with it. This is something I didn't know before, so I was a bit shocked when I arrived. I just ignored all the people and told them to wait for a bit so I could take a cool picture ;-).
From Ponta do Sol to Cascata dos Anjos:
There is a small road following the coastline from Ponta do Sol to the waterfall. It is a short walk overviewing the see and bananatrees. Don't follow google maps, it shows a longer and less nice route walking on the street.
When you are at the beachside (See exact starting point down below) you see a tunnel at the left. Go through and cross the stone bridge to your left. Go under the stone arch and keep going straight. Enjoy the amazing view. You will have to walk a small part on the paved road to reach the waterfall. I think it takes max. 20 minutes to get there.
Map
Recommendation(s)
Day 8: Sao Vicente
After exploring the south and east side of the Island, it is now time to discover the northern part. The climate of the South and Northern part are very different. The Northern part is even more Humid and gives an Hawaiian vibe. By coincidence I met a Hawaiian women while walking to my hostel, she told me the North almost totally looks like Hawaii! No need to travel to the other side of the world :-) . I decided to stay in one hostel and travel from there by bus/ hitchhike.
From Funchal to Sao Vicente:
You can take bus 139 at the Roedeste Busstation (see exact location below) in direction of Santa. This wil take you between 1 hour/ 1 hour and a half.
Hostel recommendation:
Map:
Recommendation:
Day 9: Porto Moniz
If you visit Madeira you can't skip Porto Moniz on your itinerary. Porto Moniz is especially known for its volcanic natural pools. There are several souvenirshops and many snackbars/restaurants. Ideal for a chill day. I would recommend going to Oceana Rooftop for a (very nice!!) diner/lunch with an amazing view.
From Sao Vicente to Porto Moniz:
Take bus 138 (Rodoeste bussystem). It wil take +/- 50 min to get there and cost between 2-3 euros. Great tip: Since there is only one main road going to the different villages, hitchhiking is very very easy ;-). The last bus back is (in my opinion) too early, so i would recommend hitchhiking back.
Map
Day 10: Ribeira da Janela - Fanal Forest
Enough rest, time for some more adventure!
Fanal Forest is known for its mist, the fairytale vibe, the unique trees, and the wild cows. You can't miss out on this adventure for sure. You need some balls to wildcamp here alone. I did it and I must say, the mist and knowing there are wild cows sometimes made me a little uncomfortable during the night. But I woke up with a clear sky, a lot of sun and crazy views. Worth it!
Starting at Ribeira da Janela you hike all the way up to the Fanal forestry Station (see exact locations down below). You will walk past 'levadas' which are used to transport water from one side of the island to the other side. Prepare yourself for climbing all the time. If you want the spooky vibe it is best to hike there very early in the morning or late in de evening. It depends on the weather and some luck, it is possible there isn't any mist at all.
Route
Find the trail on alltrails down below. it is 19.5 km out-and-back which means it is around 10 km one way. Since it is climbing all the way up, it is exhausting.
Starting Point: Ribeira da Janela
KM: +/- 10 km
duration: +/- 4h
Incline:1176 m
Campsite
The campsite is right at the Fanal Forestry Station. Next to it you will find a covered area with possibility of making a fire. You must know the chances of waking up, opening your tent and be face to face with a cow are high ;-).
Don't forget to reserve your spot!
Map
Day 11: Fanal Forest - Seixal
After waking up between the cows you can continue your hike in the direction of Seixal. Seixal is known for having the only black sand beach in Madeira. In the afternoon you can relax at the beach and explore Seixal.
Trail
You can find the needed information through the link below. Make sure you stop and enjoy the viewpoint at Fio do Fanal. There is a waterfall on te beach, reflecting the sun. It's beautiful and a must see stop if you go to Madeira.
Distance:5.5
incline: -989 m
Duration: Up and down it would take you +/- 5hours, only down it only takes around 2 hours.
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