Travel 2018
Mexico City
My roommate and I had originally planned to spend a weekend in CDMX together in early February, but she ended up not being able to, and since it was a last-minute trip, she ended up just booking me the trip and I went off to explore the city on my own. I'd been once before, on a two-week trip to Puebla in 2014 with a job which will not be mentioned, but my last day was spent wandering around Mexico City. It was a lot of fun to just wander around and explore on my own time, by myself.
Mexico City is the largest city in the Americas and the capital city of Mexico. It was built on top of the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan whose founding is commemorated on the Mexican seal with an eagle atop a cactus in a body of water, hearkening back to the Aztec legends of the founding of the city. It's known for its nightlife, vibrant culture, and street food!
This hotel is located a few blocks away from the Zócalo, or the main square where the Cathedral is located, and also a few blocks from the Palacio de Bellas Artes. Given that it's right in the middle of the old city, it's perfect as a home base for exploring the city's culture.
This is a local Argentinian chain that I stopped into because I needed something to eat. The food is quite tasty, and I apologize for a lackluster review, but what I was served was a meal I needed to eat, so if you have restaurant anxiety like I do, keep an eye out for them, and know you'll get a decent meal at a decent price! Ideally you should go for any of the street food (which in Mexico usually means tacos) stalls, but if you can't muster up the courage like me, this place is great.
A booklover's heaven, this is the main library for the UNAM, the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México. Instead of aisles of books, they're stacked up on ledges that are vertigo-inducing but absolutely fascinating. I didn't venture around into any of them as I wasn't sure if I could (and I didn't want to ask!) but the library itself is open to the public and absolutely stunning on an architectural level. Truly a haven for bookworms!
This is a monument dedicated to the Mexican Revolution fought in 1910 to 1920 (not to be confused with the multiple wars for independence and sovereignty fought in the 19th century) and built between 1910 and 1938 (ironically during the Revolution itself). It's located at the crossroads between the Paseo de la Reforma and Avenida Insurgentes in the central district of Cuauhtémoc. While I didn't go up to the top, it appears it is open to the general public, most likely for a fee.
The main thoroughfare of the city stretches from practically the old city to the Bosque de Chapultepec, this is where the financial headquarters of Mexico is based. I loved it because while Mexico to most foreigners is seen as a run-down Global South country or a place with iconic beaches, it's actually a powerhouse of the Spanish-speaking world, and the neighborhoods that surround it prove that. You'll forget you're in Mexico when you explore it!
As you walk along the Paseo de la Reforma, you'll come across this massive roundabout/traffic circle with a monument in the middle. There are no crosswalks so be careful when crossing, but it's a common meeting place for people in the area and a symbol of Mexico's sovereignty. It was built and dedicated in 1910 and commemorates all the Mexican heroes who died during the War for Independence, both from Spain and from the Napoleonic Wars that extended into Mexico. The "angel" is actually Nike, the Greek goddess of victory.
This massive urban park features public spaces such as museums such as the Museo Arqueológico and monuments. Further into the park, you get closer to the more ritzy neighborhoods like Polanco.
The Zócalo is the main city square, and is a term used in other cities in Mexico such as Puebla. In CDMX, it's officially called "Plaza de la Constitución", but colloquially called "El Zócalo". It's where the Cathedral is located in front of a massive square, the actual Plaza de la Constitución, where there are often events and fairs going on.
Washington, DC
My friend has family in the DC suburbs, and since I'd never been to my own country's capital city before, we took a quick weekend trip down to visit in March! Despite extremely high winds shutting down the bridge over the Chesapeake which caused our bus to not go past Delaware, we made it there via Lyft in the dead of night and were still able to enjoy our stay (we were later refunded by the bus company).
The US capital is unique in a sense that it does not belong to any particular state per design, and instead is located in a somewhat autonomous district, though it also means that its residents have no representation in Congress (this will soon change). It is the political hub of the country and most of the museums are operated by the National Parks Service and the vast majority are free to enter (yes, even the Smithsonian!).
We grabbed "brunch" at this small Japanese restaurant in Chinatown before heading off to explore some of the city since it's close to the Chinatown metro station. It's only a few blocks away from the National Portrait Gallery and other major landmarks in downtown DC.
While most of the time a "mall" is used to describe a shopping center in the US, the National Mall uses the traditional definition, which is a wide space, a park, where people go to take leisurely walks and wander around an open space. The National Mall spans everywhere from the Lincoln Memorial to the Washington Monument.
As the name suggests, this is a memorial dedicated to the servicemembers in the US military who were killed or wounded in action during World War II. It's divided into the multiple theaters and continents in which the US fought.
One of the most iconic buildings in the entire country, this building was built to commemorate the 16th US President Abraham Lincoln, who presided over the country during its Civil War and was known for being crucial in ensuring that all people in the country should be granted the same freedoms as everyone else. While it still took a hundred years for full rights to be established (and we're still seeing how socially there's still so much work to be done), he was seen as a liberator and he became known as The Great Emancipator.
Controversial in its time (and possibly still controversial depending on who you ask), this memorial wall is dedicated to everyone who died during the Viet Nam war. You can take a piece of paper and a writing utensil to rub it over the name(s) of family members who were killed to commemorate them.
One of the newer monuments in this section of the city is dedicated to Civil Rights activist Martin Luther King, Jr. who paved the way for legislation to help ensure that the war that had been fought 100 years prior was not just something that changed nothing. There's still so much work to be done to ensure that all humans are guaranteed the same status as those of us who were born with immense privilege, and we must never forget that or let the work stop.
Probably the most famous and photogenic neighborhood in the city, it's where Georgetown University is located, as well as many private schools and diplomatic residences due to its proximity to most of the major diplomatic embassies.
This adorable little French bistro is perfect for having a European café experience in the US capital. The lattes and croissants are delicious!
Located right across from the White House, this is usually the site for many of the protests and gatherings that happen in general view of the President's residence.
London
Our first "big" weekend trip was a jaunt to London in mid-April. We found cheap tickets on a European low-cost carrier that had just had inaugural flights to the US for the first time and decided to check it out (Spoiler alert: it did not go well, at least at the end). We left Friday evening, arrived Saturday morning, left Sunday night (which ended up being Monday morning, but that's a whole other story that's not going to be discussed here). I hadn't been in almost 18 years, so it was pretty cool to be able to explore a bit as an adult.
London doesn't need much of an intro: it's one of the most famous cities in the world as it's seen as the capital of the English-speaking world, at least historically, being that it's the largest city in the UK and also the capital. It dates back to the Roman Empire in the first century BCE as an outpost established by Rome and has since grown to become the hub of art and culture we know it as today.
This is a really cute pizza bar we stopped at because we needed to grab food after getting off the train and wandering around the City of London. Even from a New Yorker perspective, the pizza is not bad at all! It was a gorgeous, warm weekend by UK standards, and we took advantage by sitting on the outdoor patio.
From the pizza place, we walked all the way along the Thames until we reached Westminster, where we walked past the Abbey until we reached Buckingham Palace and camped out a bit at the Victoria Memorial to rest our feet.
We walked up through the Wellington Arch and made our way through Hyde Park, a beautiful outdoor space that is also the home to Kensington Palace. We watched the swans in the Serpentine before making our way to Victoria Gate and into Notting Hill.
We'd heard that Longchamp bags were cheaper in Europe than they were in the States, and we turned out to be correct. This was the only reason we wandered out this far, and it was also in the direction of our hotel, so why not? It's a pretty high-end shopping center, but great for window-shopping if you don't have a big budget.
This hotel was one of the cheapest that we found, and it was a lot nicer than we were expecting in a city that's notorious for being expensive and out-of-reach. It's generally known for being an airport hotel as Heathrow supposedly isn't all that far (the hotel is located halfway between the airport and downtown) and it has an excellent continental breakfast buffet that was included in the price! We ended up doing room service for dinner, which was excellent.
I met up with a friend of mine from middle school in Spain here, one of the major train stations and transit hubs in the city. It's mostly known by foreigners for being the Harry Potter Train Station, but I never really read Harry Potter (I know, I'm uncultured...) and I just went to meet up with my friend.
The Strand is known for being the business district during most of the city's history, and it's still one of the most famous streets in London.
If you're a tea snob or just a fan, this is a great place to stop in as it's been the home of the Twinings tea company for centuries. I picked up a limited edition tea tin for my mom who's a tea fanatic.
The London Marathon was held the same day we were in the city (turned out 2018 was our year of marathons... it wasn't the last time we were in a major city during its marathon) so we didn't have many pedestrian options, but we crossed this bridge with excellent views of the Tower Bridge before heading back across the river to catch our train that would take us to Stansted to catch our flight. Which never left. And we ended up having to rebook tickets home... via Gatwick. Fun times...
Boston
My friend has another family member who lives in Boston, so in May we grabbed a weekend bag and got on a 5-hour bus ride to one of the most important cities in the US. I'd never been before, and wanted to check it out. It was rainy the entire time, but it's still a gorgeous city and would love to visit more often.
Boston is the largest city in the Northeast US region of New England (consisting of these 5 states: Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut) and the capital of Massachusetts. It's known for being one of the main focal points in the US war for independence from Great Britain (what we call the Revolutionary War), complete with a "Freedom Trail" which goes through the city's historical center. Two incredibly prestigious universities are based in Cambridge right across the river: Harvard University and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology or MIT. The most popular time of year to visit is in the autumn, especially early October, when the trees turn colors and the weather is still relatively nice, but any time of year (except for winter, where it's known to get some extreme snowstorms and cold weather) is a great time to visit!
The high point in Boston is this public park located right next to the historic (and uber-pricey) Beacon Hill neighborhood, it gives you the chance to relax. When we were there it was rainy and overcast, but all things considered, it's still a beautiful place with the ponds and green space.
A Vietnamese restaurant that doesn't look like much, located in Boston's Chinatown (you can almost always find great places to eat in Chinatowns!). The pho was excellent!
We took the T (the Boston subway system) across the harbor to Cambridge and walked around the Harvard campus. Classes were just about to end and the main square was set up for Commencement which was pretty cool, and now we have the chance to say we "went" to Harvard. 😉
The Coop is the Harvard University bookstore where you can either pick up books that are generally required reading for the students (you don't need a Harvard ID to buy anything) as well as Harvard gear. I got a hoodie that I wear and have had random people ask me if I'm a grad. Nope, I just love the hoodie. It's fun to look like you went to Harvard without the pedigree, network, or budget...
Toronto
I have a brother who's been living in Toronto for the past 12 years, and my parents and I as well as this brother were based there for a year in the early 2010s.
I hadn't been back since, and Porter is a Canadian low-cost airline that flies regularly between the Billy Bishop City Airport and Newark at pretty good prices, so we took a trip up to visit in late May.
Toronto is the largest city in Canada though not the capital, and was known as York during the colonial days. It houses over 10% of the entire country's population and is known as one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the world. It's used as a stand-in for NYC when it costs too much to film in the US, but it has a charm all its own.
A great little coffee shop to pop in and grab a cup of whatever your caffeinated poison is and continue venturing around the city. The Queen Street location is great because Queen Street is my personal favorite street in the city as it's so long you can see the distinction between the various neighborhoods... and watch as it goes from lower-middle-class to heavily gentrified in the span of a few short miles.
This urban market just outside the downtown section of Toronto dates back to 1803 and is considered the culinary focal point of the city. It's very similar to urban food markets in Europe where you can find fresh produce and small restaurants and also features farmers markets where local farms sell their produce.
What used to be where whiskey was brewed and bottled and later distributed is now a lively and thriving arts and culture neighborhood in east Toronto. There are cafes and shops where you can buy and eat and even live (if you can afford it...). It's one of the most popular gathering places in the city and definitely worth a visit even if you don't feel like spending money.
This Thai fast food chain is perfect for grabbing a bite to eat. This particular location is located right next to the downtown Eaton Centre shopping mall on Yonge St.
If you're looking for a cheaper, halal food cart vibe, Ali Baba's is your place. They have locations all over Toronto, and the shawarma and falafel are absolutely delicious! When my family lived here it was just about all we ate when we were out and about and needed quick and cheap food.
For a fancier, classy vibe that's perfect for brunch, this location on King Street is gorgeous. The prices aren't as steep as you'd expect for the location or the vibe itself, and the food is phenomenal. We went on Mother's Day, and surprisingly enough we were able to find a spot despite not making any reservations because we arrived at just the right time!
If you're in the mood for a good flea market, check out the Kensington Market location a few blocks west of Spadina. It's very much a hippie vibe and surrounded by vegan and multiple ethnic restaurants, and since it's in an area heavily populated by college students, the prices outside of the market itself are very accessible.
My brother's favorite vintage shop where they specialize in American biker gear, but you can also find various sports jerseys and other gear from well-known American brands.
What better way to spend a warm day than with some quality ice cream? The ice cream here is fresh and homemade, with all kinds of different flavors that often change with the time of year. Grab a cone, or a cup, sit down, or get it to go!
This massive city park spans most of western Toronto, heading into Etobicoke and Mississauga. It lines the shore of Lake Ontario and is filled with bike and walking paths, and in the summer is loaded with people swimming. You get some great views of the city heading east!
Philippines
One thing I've absolutely loved about living and working in the Metro NYC area is meeting people from all over the world. A colleague I met through work is from the Philippines, and in June she spent some time at home with her family on the island of Cebu, and I'd been talking about visiting her. I have some family connection to the country and I will take any opportunity to go anywhere, and since she was more than happy to tell me to join her, I jumped at the chance. I booked the tickets, gave her my dates, and started planning. I hopped on a 15-hour flight from EWR to Hong Kong, and spent 11 hours there during a typhoon warning before getting on a 4-hour flight to Cebu.
Hong Kong
Hong Kong was a British territory until 1997 when it was ceded to the Chinese government, and because of this there are a lot of post-colonial aspects to the region and culture. As part of China, the economy has skyrocketed as Hong Kong citizens (were) generally given special administration rights. The culture is predominantly Cantonese, but most locals speak English, and due to being a thriving financial hub, it's also an international gateway similar to Singapore.
I got off the airport train right in the middle of downtown Hong Kong, right in the financial district. This is the mall next to the train station, and "IFC" simply stands for "International Financial Centre". It's very upscale with luxury stores, and the perfect place to go to the bathroom after an obscenely long flight and losing an entire day due to the time change!
Walking along the promenade along Victoria Harbour you come across this beautiful little park surrounded by water on one side and office buildings on the other. On a workday morning it's incredibly quiet and peaceful, at least it was when I went in 2018 before all the protests.
A short trip to Hong Kong, or any trip at all, is not complete without a ride on the Star Ferry. I picked up a transit card at the airport just so I could do the boat trip (that and Victoria Peak, which I didn't get to because it was cloudy and rainy and stormy all day, and visibility was extremely poor; I didn't think it was worth it). It's incredibly affordable and a smooth ride from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon.
You get off the ferry right at Kowloon, and I continued walking along the promenade to get to the Tsim Sha Tsui district which has some really cool views of the Harbour and the financial district on the mainland.
This beautiful urban park is a great place to sit and relax, even in the middle of an imminent typhoon (meaning it was very, very humid). To get there you walk through the main shopping district, and then you reach an urban, tropical park and it's where I rested my feet for a bit.
Before heading to the Kowloon train station to go back to the airport for my flight to the Philippines, I wandered around the Kowloon Harbour area and found a few shopping malls below residential condo towers that were great to explore.
Ultimately I didn't spend as much time as I would have liked, as the inclement weather meant I was constantly at risk of getting caught in a downpour, and since I had all my carry-on bags with me and a travel pillow, it was an experience I wanted to avoid. So I had to cut my time a little short and opted to spend more time in the airport just so I could also make sure I wouldn't miss my flight. One day I'll go back to Hong Kong, actually stay and eat a few meals there, and experience it like it's supposed to be experienced!
Cebu
My friend's family lives in a small village about an hour outside of Cebu City, in a small house with electricity but no running water (as is typical in the country if you're outside the urban center) and this is where I was based for my 4 full days in the country (absolutely not enough, but it was all the time I had unfortunately). I had roosters crowing all morning, but I still always managed to feel rested and ready to explore the island with my friend and her mostly non-English-speaking family.
The first fort built by the Spanish to defend itself, it's located just outside the downtown and overlooks the strait to Mactan Island (where the airport is located) as well as the city itself.
The main Cathedral in the islands was built around the same time as the fort (early 16th century) and has a distinctively iconic Spanish style, as many cathedrals and churches in Spain were also completed around this time. There's a massive courtyard where many services are held, aside from indoors, and at any given moment, even if it's not Sunday Mass hours, you'll find yourself in the middle of a Catholic service. Photography is usually prohibited during these times.
The cross erected by Magellan and his crew when they landed in the Philippines was encased and enshrined at this location, and a mural depicting the events is painted on the ceiling. The Philippines is a predominantly Catholic country due to the evangelization efforts done by the Spanish and the priests who were sent to convert the locals, (which, just as in the Americas, was done by force). As many of the locals are true believers, however, it's a good idea to respect their beliefs regardless of your thoughts on religious colonialism.
In contrast to the shrine of Magellan's Cross, over on the island of Mactan you'll find a monument erected to Lapu-Lapu, the tribal leader whose men engaged the Spanish in battle, leading to the mutiny which killed Magellan shortly after his arrival. He's a local legend and hero to many Filipinos, and I'm sure he's gaining in popularity due to the anti-colonialism rhetoric that's growing in a post-colonial world.
We stopped for dinner at this fish and seafood market, and it's the kind where you pick out your fish and seafood of choice and they grill it for you on the spot. There's a spot to eat in the back, overlooking the mangrove forest, where you can sit and enjoy your fresh fish. I'm not sure how their level of English is, but if you can find a local who speaks English, enlist their help because this place is well worth a visit despite the language barrier, and you're missing out if that's the reason you don't go!
Given that Cebu is a volcanic island, the mountains are extremely lush, leading to many floral gardens. This is one of them, named literally "Alejandra's Garden", where you can wander around and explore the different kinds of tropical flowers. You are not allowed to pick them, but a friendly groundskeeper may give you one as a souvenir (as happened to me, because I was the only white girl in a large group of locals and we are all just giggling and having fun)...
The Cebuano version of the Taj Mahal, this massive Roman-style complex was dedicated to the wife of Teodorico Soriano. He built this temple in 2012 to show the entire island how much he loved her. We visited at night, and the lights of the city down below were spectacular! The complex itself is incredibly impressive, and the concept a bit cheesy, but the locals generally love it, so it's definitely worth considering a visit, if only for the views!
This French bakery in the middle of Cebu is a great place to grab food and even load up on French wine, as there's a beautiful and massive wine cellar on the premises. In the evenings they'll often show a French movie (with subtitles of course!) and they're known for their pizzas (oddly enough). At night, the back patio is lit up with fairy lights and the tables and chairs have colored LED lights inside.
The next morning, the entire extended family loaded up a truck and a trailer to head three hours southwest to the beach town of Moalboal. On the way, we stopped at Carcar, a city whose market is renowned throughout the country for providing the absolute best lechon on offer. In Spanish, "lechón" is generally a roasted suckling pig, but in the Philippines it's more of a young, small-ish pig that's simply roasted to perfection; the skin crispy and the meat tender and soft. It's very traditional for Filipino families to get one for major events and to celebrate someone or to welcome guests, and in some cases, may be something that's normally outside of the family budget.
I say all this because I *knew* about the Filipino lechon tradition going into the trip (and had always wanted to try), but in no way, shape, or form was I actually *expecting* to be told that they were getting one *just for me*, because I was visiting them from the US. Talk about being humbled. I still struggle to process it. Anyway, moving on...
A cottage was rented at this beach resort where the entire feast was set up and prepared shortly after we arrived. While we didn't stay the night, it's in a beautiful location right on the beach, with plenty of amenities. If you're just passing through, you can still access the bathrooms and public showers (no running water) for a small fee (less than $1 USD). The feast included everything from sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves to fresh, fresh, *fresh* mangos. Oh, and the lechon of course. Due to the typhoons in the Pacific the waves were incredibly choppy and dangerous, but still gentle enough as even western Cebu has relatively sheltered shores from the South China Sea. I definitely had some fun in the water!
This is the South Cebu iteration of a shopping mall chain which features relatively upscale shops and restaurants geared towards foreigners and more well-off Filipinos. It also has a gorgeous rooftop terrace circling most of the mall where you can enjoy both sea and city views, with the mountains in the distance.
By far the most popular of the tropical gardens in Cebu, this is basically geared towards the social media crowd as instead of paths of flowers like Buwakan ni Alejandra, it has paths of flowers and other tropical plants as well as "stations" for photoshoots and selfies.
The Philippines is becoming a dominant customer service hub due to the lower wages which can be offered the locals as well as the predominance of English speakers (Spain, of course, lost the Philippines to the United States after the Spanish-American War in 1898 and promptly took it over, ushering in a new colonial era in an already heavily colonized part of the world) and overall hospitality and friendliness of the locals. This food truck park is located right in the middle of brand-new office buildings which house many of these customer service employees. There are tons of options to choose from, from local Filipino fare to more diverse cuisines.
Another French-style restaurant and bakery, this one's located right in the IT Park. My friend's friend who trained as a pastry chef and worked here for a bit made it clear that the baked goods are where it's at. The macarons are about as good as what you'll get in France, and the rainbow cake is Insta-worthy (and delicious)!
It's not a trip to the Philippines without a stop at Jollibee, the Filipino fried chicken fast food chain that's making its way around the world. I've since had it at my local location as well (because I live in an area with a high Filipino population here in Jersey), but you never forget your first time... We stopped here for breakfast on the way down to the very southern tip of the island.
I fully acknowledge that whale shark watching is a heavily controversial activity, and I 100% will own up to my role in promoting it, but good lord... it's also life-changing. I can't lie, I'm sorry. The experience is absolutely surreal and beautiful. These massive, gorgeous creatures must be protected at all costs, even if that does mean that experiences like these are limited to prohibited. You're drilled into not touching the animals in the pre-boat informational sessions so you're completely aware of what your body is doing, but of course, the sharks don't get that memo, and at one point you'll feel something brush against your feet as you're treading water with a life jacket on in the middle of the sea, only to look down and find the largest animal you've ever seen in your life right below you... so close you could literally stand on its back.
I understand the main concern is ensuring they're not relying on humans for food since in order to get them close enough to watch they toss food, tiny little prawns usually, into the water as chum. This obviously creates a problem as it messes up breeding and feeding routes for the sharks since they learn to depend on humans for food, especially in this quantity. It's definitely good to be aware of this going in. However, the trips are limited to the early morning (I woke up at 4 am to get down to Oslob by 6-6:30) and end around 10 am, and due to the migration patterns of the sharks, they're not year-round (though the fear is that they could be).
After setting up camp in a cottage nearby and eating a quick lunch of Jollibee that we'd ordered to bring down with us, we got on a ferry to the tiny island of Sumilon, which is known for its sandbar which changes shape and size with each low tide. It's not really "sand" but more coral, so instead of soft, pillowy sand your feet are being poked at and pinched at all times. Still, it's an absolutely breathtaking place! You're only allowed to bring what you can carry and what you're willing to get wet, so waterproof phones or phone cases are it.
Heading back into the village, we stopped at this seaside restaurant for dinner. Definitely on the fancier end of what most Filipinos can afford (we alternated between local places and homemade food and actual restaurants, and since my friend and her husband and I were on US salaries in a country with a very low cost of living, even the "expensive" places are still quite affordable in this context), but man, I will never say no to fresh seafood. I also had my first dish of halo-halo, the Filipino ice cream dish with any kind of sugary leftovers the kitchen can find and drop it on there meaning it's different at different places. Yum.
Basque Country
If you scour my profile, you'll see this is not the first (or last) time I've been in the Basque Country. I lived here with my family for nearly 3 years when I was growing up, and it truly is a beautiful part of the world. My best friend grew up here and lives here with her family, so I stay with them when I go to visit! I went for a visit in early July, because my friend is a university professor and July is usually when she has the least amount of work. It's outrageously expensive, but for me, it's worth it because I mainly go to spend time with my best friend. 🥰
Getxo is a relatively large municipality on the shore of the Bay of Biscay where the estuary of the Nervión River which runs through Bilbao meets the sea. What used to be a fishing village (which still exists as the Puerto Viejo in Algorta) was developed in the 19th century and then the 1960s, first for the industrial magnates of the shipping industry and then the workers later on. It's on the more affluent side, with Neguri the most exclusive, with mansions dating back to the mid-to-late 19th century, but with more working-class areas a bit further in.
This long walkway that goes along the cliff of Algorta overlooking Arrigunaga Beach and extending to the Fort is a bit long, but it´s where all the locals go for an evening or afternoon stroll with their kids and dogs. You can grab a coffee at the restaurant right by the Aixerrota windmill or keep walking. It's a great place to watch the sunset!
Down in Bilbao (check out some of my other guides for more info specifically on this city), this café is the brainchild of a child of Chinese immigrants where the specialty is bubble tea and the cappuccinos are some of the best in the city. It´s located in the same complex as Bilbao's lone skyscraper, the Iberdrola office tower, a few blocks from the Guggenheim.
The Gipuzkoa highlands ("goierri" in Basque) are the mountains and valleys in the province that houses San Sebastián. You will need a car to get out here, but the views are spectacular, and you'll be glad you left the city!
This small mountainside restaurant overlooks the fields and highlands in the Lazkao region. The staff do not speak English (Basque is preferable, but Spanish is fine!) but the food, as is typical in the Basque Country, is excellent! Get some coffee and pintxos and enjoy the views.
This small town doesn't have much by way of historical value, but it is where the CAF plant is based. They make trains that are used all over the world (such as the Cincinnati, OH light rail cars), and it's overall a great glimpse into what small-town Basque Country looks like (if you haven't been to Gernika, which you absolutely should visit).
Igartza is a small complex of buildings that have been preserved to show what life was like in the Middle Ages for the Basques, as well as give you a little bit of Basque history itself. There are displays which feature Basque maritime ventures, such as their settlements in what is now Newfoundland in Canada.
Just a small bar when you can grab a coffee (which locals do at all times of day) and some pintxos without any of the fuss.
This working-class district in Bilbao is a great place to wander around, check out some local and chain shops, and explore the city without all the tourists!
The historic center of Bilbao is where all the best restaurants in the city are located, so regardless of where you sit down, you'll get some of the best food in the world! Basque cuisine is not limited to San Sebastián, after all!
I love this bookstore; it's dedicated to resources and books in the Basque language. If you've fallen in love with the language like I have and wish to learn more, this is the place to go, even if you have no idea where to start. There are a few other branches across the region, but this one in the Casco Viejo is probably the easiest one to find.
One of the largest districts in Getxo is Las Arenas, or Areeta. It spans the entire length of the shore until you get to the end of Avenida Zugatzarte. Most of the houses along the water belonged to industrial tycoons in the 19th century, and many of them are still in the fmily and are private residences.
The crown jewel of Getxo is the Puente Colgante, "hanging bridge", or "Puente de Vizcaya", or "Biscay Bridge". Built by Alberto de Palacios in the 1800s, it spans the estuary between Las Arenas and Portugalete and was used to transport people and vehicles from their residences to the ironworks and shipbuilding plants. Until the highway system was built, it was the only way to get from one side to the other until you reach Bilbao, and even today it's still in use for this purpose. With a Bilbao Transit card (called a Barik) you can cross to the other side, and for a fee you can take the elevator up to the top and walk across to the other side.
One of the best restaurants in Las Arenas, it's right at the Plaza del Ajedrez ("Chess Square") right by the Areeta Metro station. If it's not full, sit down and enjoy some wine, either traditional txakoli or a red or white, and enjoy some truly spectacular pintxos. And, since it's not in a major city, at a slightly better price point!
While currently closed (as of August 2023) due to an illness affecting the trees, when it reopens, it's well worth a visit. This is an open-air art installation by Basque painter Agustín Ibarrola, and features trees that have been painted in various ways, most of which form a pattern when viewed from a specific location (there's a map and guide on the website, so whenever it reopens and you make it out, check it out so you have an idea of what you're doing!). The specific points to stand in for optimal viewing are stated along the path. It's located about 45 minutes east of Bilbao.
This restaurant is located right over the cliffs of Barrika, a small town with a gorgeous beach surrounded by cliffs. If you sit outside, it's the perfect location for watching the sunset as it actually faces to the west, and the sunsets are stunning!
While generally a health club similar to the YMCA in the US, it features a restaurant run by a hospitality school where you can enjoy a great meal provided by the students and staff at a very affordable price! You do not need to have a membership to eat here.
If you need to do some shopping, or just want to check out an actual mall, head up the hill in Leioa that overlooks Getxo to this massive shopping center. It actually opened while I was living in the area, in a neighborhood right below the hill, and it hasn't changed much! You'll find your usual fast-fashion stores such as Zara and H&M here, as well as a movie theater which offers movies in the original language on Tuesday evenings.
Paris
Paris is probably the one city in the world that's on everyone's bucket list regardless of where they live in the world. I'd already been to Paris once before, but it was back in October 2002 during a high school trip, and it was only for a few hours. So when we had the opportunity to find cheap tickets with Norwegian (RIP long-haul routes) in July for October, we were stoked. It also just so happened that the city was hit with a warm streak, though not a heat wave. It was just warm enough that we could enjoy the city in the best possible way: it was not too hot, definitely not too cold, with bright sunny skies both days (we went over a long weekend), and we still got to see the leaves on the trees change colors. It was *perfect*!
People have been living in what's now known as Paris for millennia: the name of the city comes from one of the Gaulish (the Celtic peoples who populated the region of what's now known as France before the Roman conquests) tribes: Parisii. During the Enlightenment period, it became the "capital "of Europe under Napoleon as France had become the center of culture and knowledge. Anyone who was anyone spoke French. Not much has changed today, even though French is no longer the world's "lingua franca" as it has been supplanted by English, the cultural hold Paris, and by extension the country of France, has had on the Western World (and then some... many Japanese tourists are known to suffer a condition known as "Paris Syndrome" in which they become either dizzy or sick at seeing Paris for the first time: either because the reality is much uglier than the idea, or because all the culture and history has them mystified) is immense.
This tiny island in the middle of the Seine is where Notre-Dame de Paris, as well as many government buildings and Sainte-Chappelle, is located. It is where the city of Paris began. We started off here, leaving our bags in the Quartier Latin with a bag-holding service, then set off along the pathway along the Seine, crossing the bridge, and following the road towards the Place de la Concorde.
We chose this hotel because it was one of the cheapest options we could find but still conveniently located. While it is technically outside of Paris itself, it's located right on top of a Metro station so it's incredibly convenient. If you're budget-conscious and okay with public transit (which is recommended in Europe anyway because of how convenient it is), I highly recommend it! Plus, there's a bakery right across the street where you can get your coffee and croissants just like the locals!
The high point of the city, this is the artists' district and crowned with the Sacre-Cœur church. It's very hilly so be prepared to walk a lot and *hard*, but it's worth the effort for the views and the experience overall!
This iconic shopping center is known for luxury boutiques, but also the absolutely stunning stained glass ceiling in the main atrium. Be careful when admiring it, however, because there will be people bumping into you if you don't bump into a kiosk first.
Head next door (there's a walkway there from the Galeries Lafayette) to the Galeries Printemps for privileged views of the city from the top level. There's a café and restaurant there, but it's expensive and you need reservations, and you don't need to sit there to take in the views.
Keep walking towards the Arc de Triomphe and you'll come across this corner café and restaurant in an area that's not as touristy as you'd expect. We ordered an entire bottle of Burgundy with our avocado salad and pasta, and enjoyed a lovely lunch in downtown Paris.
I feel like this church is highly underrated as most people used to queue up like crazy to go inside Notre Dame, but honestly, Sainte-Chapelle is far more glorious and incredible. Built in the 12th-century, the stained glass and gold ornamentation is absolutely stunning during the day.
I'm also going to recommend going to a concert there. We did (we were gifted tickets by a friend who insisted it was a must-do experience), and it was by far worth rushing to get there after drinking a full bottle of wine and getting in slightly late. But seriously, check it out.
After leaving the concert, ducking into a restaurant to order food so we could use the bathroom (at a place that had this amazing shrimp salad but sadly closed a few months after visiting), taking advantage of the glorious evening weather to walk to the Eiffel Tower and back, we stopped in the classic OG English-language bookstore in Paris before hopping on the Metro to get back to our hotel.
The most privileged views of Paris of the Eiffel Tower are from Trocadéro right across the river. Hop over to take in the views!
We bought tickets in advance to go all the way up to the tip of the world-famous tower that originally only supposed to be temporary for the 1883 Paris Exhibition but became a billboard and a telecom tower due to the fact that despite the locals originally claiming it to be an eyesore, it grew on them. Definitely recommend buying tickets in advance so you can skip the line. We probably waited only five minutes for our tickets to get scanned before we were ushered into the elevator and ferried to the top.
After grabbing coffee and croissants at a local bakery and having our breakfast right in the middle of the Champ de Mars, we headed down the Champs-Élysées and to the Place Charles de Gaulle. We had to avoid the roadblocks though, as the Paris Marathon (Remember what I said back in London? Yeah, this was our second marathon weekend) was going on at the same time.
We hung out at the Triumphal Arch dedicated to the fallen during the Napoleonic Wars (key battles are engraved along the posts). We didn't go inside, but there are some incredible views from the top from what I remember from my class trip in 2002.
World-famous bakery Ladurée is of course famous for their absolutely gorgeous (and delicious!) macarons, those deliciously crispy and light pastries that melt in your mouth with their meringue goodness and creamy centers. You can also choose to do a meal or brunch here at the ornate 18th-century-decorated interior café.
We kept walking till we reached the end of the Champs-Élysées at the Place de la Concorde, with the mammoth obelisk from Luxor standing in the center, along with a beautiful fountain.
The Jardins des Tuileries mark the entrance to the Louvre, which surrounds in on three sides. We didn't bother to go in because we didn't have the time and didn't have tickets purchased in advance as we were only there for a weekend and only really wanted to do the top level of the Eiffel Tower. It's still a lovely walk through the gardens.
Before heading to the train station to head to the airport, we stopped for lunch at this small bistro along the Seine, very close to Notre Dame. They're especially known for their cheese dishes, and while I'm not a huge fan of French cheeses (judge away!), we ordered a dish that had the least amount of chese which was spectacular. Hopefully you *are* a fan of cheese, because if you are, this is definitely a great place to sit outside, weather-permitting, and enjoy the privileged views of the Seine.
I was extremely lucky to have been convinced by my friend to stop inside Notre Dame before finally heading to the airport as a catastrophic fire destroyed the entire roof structure six months later. The reconstruction process is still underway and won't be complete for another few years (as of August 2023) and visitors are highly restricted, if permitted at all. So yeah... I'm glad I was convinced, and my friend likes to remind me of how I was originally skeptical because I don't like lines, and I only changed my mind when I saw that the lines were moving very quickly.
Netherlands
This was our last trip of the year, in early December for a long weekend (2 nights, 3 days). My friend had spent a lot of time here as a stopover between the US and Israel, and had made a few Dutch friends she liked to spend time with. I'd never been, and we managed to cross off three cities due to the ease of access of the rail system and the fact that the Netherlands is a relatively small country! We also managed to be there during the one weekend the Haarlem Christmas Market was going on, which is considered one of the best in Europe!
As prices in Amsterdam for lodging are outrageous, we decided to stay in Utrecht, which also happens to be where my friend's Dutch friends happen to live. It's about 30-45 minutes from Amsterdam and Schiphol, so we went for it. This hotel is also located right next to the train station, so we dropped our bags off before getting on another train to Amsterdam Centraal.
This museum is where Holocaust victim Anne Frank's family spent their entire time in hiding, in the location known as the Annex until ratted out by the Dutch police. It's a harrowing place to visit knowing the story from her diary. An absolute must for however long you're in the city if it's your first time.
This is the main canal district, and it's incredibly easy to get lost, but at least you'll have a blast doing it, surrounded by the tiny alleys and the beautiful houses along the canals as well as the picturesque bridges. Just steer cleer of the bike paths if you're on foot; the Dutch will get very rude about you blocking their path (you'll make the mistake once, and then you'll realize the error of your ways and hopefully will watch where you're walking from that moment on.... as I did)!
By no means is this the best place in the city (or the country) to get your Dutch fries (and I'm pretty sure that most Dutch people would say this place is more Belgian, which is definitely an insult), but still, they're absolutely delicious and it's worth stopping in for a cup of freshly cooked fries.
While we didn't visit ourselves, this is a must if you have more than just a weekend, especially if you love museums and art. We tend to avoid museums when we do weekend trips because we'd rather see the city than spend hours in a museum, but I grew up going to museums and I absolutely love them and I hate that I don't usually have time for them while traveling. It's also a bit of a Dutch History and Culture museum as it features more than just art by Dutch Masters like Rembrandt and Van Eyck from what I understand!
If you love your stroopwafels, those thin wafers of waffels sandwiching gooey caramel and either plain or dipped in chocolate with toppings like coconut flakes, sprinkles, nuts, etc., check out this bakery in the main shopping district near the Palace. Buy a box and bring them home with you!
And if you need to do some shopping, pop into this converted shopping mall and wander around.
We met up with my friend's Dutch friend here for dinner before heading to the Christmas Market. It's more of a bakery but the sandwiches are absolutely delicious.
After wandering around the Christmas Market on a cold December night, you need to go somewhere to get warm. We ducked into this particular location of a popular Dutch chain where you pick out your block of chocolate and hot milk is poured on top of it in a glass. As you'd expect in the Netherlands (being so close to Belgium and all), the chocolate is divine even at a chain. Plus, it's just a really cozy environment. I hate cold weather, but I love European winter culture. 100% miss it from my youth.
After checking out of our hotel in Utrecht and leaving our bags at Amsterdam Centraal so we could spend more time wandering around the city before we had to be back to get to the airport, we wandered around the Red Light District. Amsterdam is known for its "coffee shops" where marijuana can be purchased and smoked (but only in this corner of the city...) as well as legal prostitutions (also only in this neighborhood...), but beware: the local government is cracking down on loud and rowdy foreigners. I don't participate, but if you want to, just don't be obnoxious. People actually do live here, and they don't generally mind foreigners participating in their vices of choice so long as they're not disrespectful!
The "Nine Streets" is a cozy district with local boutiques and coffee shops (that actually sell and serve coffee).
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