A guide to exploring one of Italy's most beautiful regions
My guide includes details on a dreamy townhouse in Monopoli, 7 tried & tested restaurant recommendations for lunch and dinner, 4 great aperitivo spots, best spots for a swim, day-trip options, an overview of its main attractions but also its less-touristed spots.
The interactive map makes it simple to plan and personalise your own route.
All of the photos featured in the body of the guide are my own, as are the images in the recommendations included.
You'll also find two detailed articles included links with further info and lots of additional photographs
Why visit Puglia?
Every day spent here feels like living on the set of an Italian film. Located far south in the heel of Italy's boot, the landscape is dreamy, with azure waters only on postcards; its vast arid countryside is lined with olive trees while impossibly pretty whitewashed towns sit perched on hills overlooking it all. The people are warm & friendly, it's sunny all the time, and the food is divine - unsurprisingly, as the region is lauded for its exceptional cuisine.
Puglia has a rich tradition of olive oil production, and Burrata is one of its specialties. Factor in some fresh-from-the-ocean seafood and you'll eat like a queen. And of course we need to talk about the excellent Puglian wines. Primitivo and Negroamaro, their renowned smooth-as-silk reds, are always my tipple of choice. But on our first day we were introduced to the rosé (or rosato) versions of both, which are something very special: pale-pink, not too dry with hints of strawberry and maybe a little spice. Far more interesting than the Provençal rosés (sorry France), and perfect for when the temperatures are hitting 39 degrees by lunchtime.
In short, Puglia gives the Amalfi Coast a run for its money in terms of natural beauty but without the price tag. Accommodation, food & drink is still fantastic value for money. So what are you waiting for?
Where to stay
We chose beautiful Monopoli as our base for four nights. Halfway down the east coast of Puglia, it's the perfect spot to stay, with its lively atmosphere and general sense of joie-de-vivre. Life happens here in the great outdoors: its beautiful piazzas are made for people-watching while the marina comes alive at night with people taking a passeggiata along the lungomare (promenade), drinking cocktails from streetside bars or indulging in yet another gelato. The sea views are expansive and intoxicating and day trips to places like Ostuni, Polignano a Mare and Locorotondo are all easily accessible by public transport, if you don't wish to rent a car.
A special place to stay: Loft 900: Home & Spa
From the moment we walked in the front door, we knew this was somewhere a little bit special - a huge airy apartment with high ceilings and a fabulous checkerboard floor. The décor throughout is stunning with thoughtful attention to detail. A bedroom on a mezzanine overlooks the living space and there are two large bathrooms: one with a rain shower, the other with a freestanding bath, and scented candles are dotted throughout.
Monopoli: Centro Storico
What to do in Monopoli
But that's not to say there aren't interesting places to visit in Monopoli. It's definitely worth a trip to the impressive basilica.
Founded originally in the 12th century, it was entirely rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 1700s. As you would expect, the interior is extravagantly and lavishly decorated.
Castello Carlo V is a 16th century fortification on a promontory overlooking the sea, and one of the dominating landmarks of the city. A gallery space currently showcases a fascinating Surrealist exhibition with works by Miro, Dalí, Max Ernst and Magritte. In July and August, the castle stays open until 11pm.
Places to eat in Monopoli: our top picks
La Locanda sul Porto
This local favourite is hugely popular and it's not hard to see why. The food is top notch but the prices don't reflect that - it's excellent value for money. Tucked away down a side street close to the port, this restaurant is a little gem. Staff are warm and friendly but extremely professional and efficient.
It's a really in-demand spot and they were constantly turning people away. Like so many older restaurants in this part of Italy, there's no online booking system. If you want a table, you'll need to call or drop in a few days before. We dropped in the day before and the manager kindly squeezed us in.
My Wine | Il piacere del Palato
An evening spent here was one of the highlights of our entire trip. Located just around the corner from the Locanda above, this is one for a special occasion. Actually scratch that - an evening here is the special occasion. With a small number of tables streetside on the terrace and just a few more inside the gorgeous wine bar, reservations are essential. Let's just say that the clue is in the name: Il piacere del palato - the pleasures of the palate. Every dish is a feast for the senses. And for the soul.
My Wine is essentially a one-man show. And that man is Gianni De Bellis, the warm, larger-than-life owner, host, server and sommelier. Gianni is someone who takes real pride in the food and wine that they serve and clearly loves nothing more than seeing his guests' reactions to his cuisine. Our paroxysms of joy at every bite must have made his day.
My Wine is a place to linger for hours, chatting to Gianni, slowly savouring the food and wine and enjoying the comings and goings at the port down below. It's on the pricier side in Monopoli but believe me, it's worth every penny.
MiCasa
Our first meal in Monopoli. Despite arriving late, had no problems seating us for food. They serve until midnight, We ordered the squid ink orecchiette with prawns, and spaghettone with tuna - traditional dishes with a modern twist. A first night in Puglia calls for a bottle of one of their renowned regional wines. A smooth-as-silk Primitivo cost a mere €20.
Aperitivo time
There are loads of great bars in Monopoli but these were our favourites
Day trips from Monopoli
One of Monopoli's biggest selling points is its coastal location with easy access to some of Puglia's most-popular day-trip destinations. You don't have to go far to find a beach - the city has a small sandy strip with enticingly clear water. Unsurprisingly, because of its proximity to town, it can get quite busy. However, there are any number of lovely beaches just a few kms south of Monopoli including Porto Bianco, Porto Verde and Porto Rosso.
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi
Our best find was Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi, a craggy landscape of natural sea coves with azure and impossibly clear waters. The terrain is mainly rocky instead of sandy.
Grotta della Cala Tre Buchi is about 3-4kms from Monopoli. There is a free car park on the road close to the walkway down to the sea.
Ostuni
La Città Bianca, the White City, certainly lived up to its name. One of the most visited places in Puglia, the view upon approach is breathtaking.
Perched on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding countryside, whitewashed houses and buildings appear to be stacked on top of each other, encircled within the old medieval town walls. Even the outskirts are beautiful, its streets lined with vibrant oleander trees.
Located at the highest point in the city, it dates to the late 15th century. Its facade was built in the late Gothic style using a terracotta-coloured Ostunese limestone, contrasting beautifully with the surrounding white streets.
Ostuni: where to eat
The food, wine and service were excellent. Over a long lazy lunch we tucked into Fiori di Zucchi and burrata, then seafood gnocchi, washed down with chilled glasses of Negroamaro rosato. We lingered just a little longer over coffee.
TIP: As with most historic cities in this part of Italy, traffic is restricted in the Centro Storico. However, there are a number of car parks on the outskirts with a reasonable rate per hour.
Polignano a Mare
There are a number of panoramic terraces offering spectacular views. One of the best is from the Lungomare Domenico Modugno - across the bay is the full expanse of the old town in all its glory.
The square is named after the singer who found international fame with Volare and who was born in Polignano. In the centre stands a wonderful commemorative sculpture to the singer who stands with his back to the sea, arms spread as if in flight. He appears to be mid-song, his eyes are closed and his demeanour is joyful and full of life.
How very Italian! Entertainment is provided by teenagers and children showing off down below, diving from vertiginous rocky ledges and performing dramatic backflips to impress onlookers.
Polignano a Mare: Where to eat
Just inside Porta Vecchia, the main entrance to the old town, Osteria dei Mullini caught my eye. Tucked away down a narrow alleyway, the restaurant is overlooked by a picturesque church while its terrace is shaded beneath a canopy of leafy green vines with grapes hanging overhead.
After a lazy amble around the Centro Storico, we stopped for gelato at Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella, one of the most popular spots in the town.
A searingly hot day called for a refreshing aperitivo - a Negroni Sbagliato hit the spot at the lovely Beija Flor.
TIP: Polignano a Mare is a less than ten-minute journey on the train from Monopoli - it's just one stop away so there is no need to drive and to deal with parking.
Locorotondo
Locorontondo is just one of about five impossibly pretty towns in the Valle d'Itria - the valley in the middle of Puglia. Often referred to as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy, the centro storico is cocooned within the circular old town walls. It's compact with not a huge amount of sightseeing to do, but wandering the streets is a pleasure in itself. Residents have taken such care and pride in their homes and businesses: gleaming whitewashed facades line the narrow cobbled streets with colourful shutters & flowers everywhere.
Villa Communale is a lovely leafy park on the outskirts with panoramic views across the countryside. It also offers a welcome reprieve from the sun - here's where the locals hang out, having loud engaging conversations beneath the trees. I could watch them for hours...
In what felt like a scene from a film, we stumbled upon a traditional Italian wedding in full-flow. Because of the heat, the church door was left open so we were able to gatecrash a little and watch the ceremony from the steps. More entertaining still was how they managed to squeeze the car down the narrowest of alleyways to head for their reception.
Where to eat in Locorotondo
We had breakfast in this lovely local cafe - Caffe della Villa, just inside one of the old town gates on a ridiculously pretty square.
Our last stop was lunch at the trendy Vinifera Vini & Affini before hitting the road to Matera (watch this space for a follow-up guide).
Doubling as a wine shop and retailer of local produce, we enjoyed two delicious salads and a glass of sparkling Negroamaro in the loveliest of settings.
Practicalities: getting there
We flew direct from Dublin to Brindisi Airport with Aer Lingus. We hired a car from Discover Cars with pick-up from a location on the outskirts of the airport. A shuttle bus was provided.
Part II of our Puglia adventures will be published over the coming weeks. This will feature Castro, Lecce and Brindisi. Part III will showcase our trip to neighbouring Basilicata and two nights in a cave hotel in magical Matera. Stay tuned!
Buon viaggio
Karyn x
The home for unique & authentic travel
