The Green Hug of Bali
The Green Hug of Bali
Fran
Embark on an unforgettable journey through Bali, where you'll be captivated by its pristine beaches, jungle waterfalls, volcano views, lush rice fields, and vibrant cultures - a genuine paradise for adventurous souls.
After spending several months in Bali, I can say that there is something for everyone, as it offers a variety of activities! Whether you want to relax, party all night long, or explore the island, Bali truly has it all!
The best time to visit Bali is between April and October, the island's dry season.
Your budget has to take into consideration whether you move around the island with a driver or by renting motorbikes. Renting motorbikes allows for greater flexibility in exploring more places, which is particularly advantageous if your time on the island is limited. Cars can get stuck in traffic, wasting valuable time. If you choose to ride, ensure you wear helmets and carry your international driver's license to avoid fines.
Here are three rules to ensure you enjoy your Bali trip to the fullest:
1. Always Bargain: Whether you're shopping at markets or hiring services, bargaining is a common practice in Bali. It's a fun way to engage with locals and often results in getting a better deal.
2. Explore Beyond Tourist Attractions: To experience the authentic Bali, avoid relying solely on mainstream travel guides. Instead of googling "what to see in Bali," consider exploring lesser-known spots recommended by locals or venturing off the beaten path.
3. Carry a Sarong: A sarong is not just a piece of clothing in Bali; it's a versatile accessory. You'll need it for visiting temples, as it's a sign of respect to cover your legs, and it can also serve as a beach towel or a makeshift blanket during your adventures. Always have one handy to respect local customs and stay comfortable throughout your journey.
The itinerary provides detailed travel information on specific locations, including Ubud, Seminyak, Canggu and Uluwatu, and recommended day trips to other surrounding areas and nearby islands. Here's a preview of what awaits you in my Ultimate Bali Travel Guide!
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LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!
I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS)
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Main international airport of Bali! Make sure to check the requirements to enter the country. Avoid currency exchange kiosks and purchasing a sim card - it will be more expensive at the airport.
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Regardless of where you will be spending your first night in Bali, you will need a ride to your final destination. A multitude of drivers will be waiting for you at the entrance of the airport, offering to take you to your hotel. ALWAYS BARGAIN - the initial price is often higher than necessary. A valid alternative (usually cheaper) is using ride-hailing apps such as "gojek" or "grab" to arrange a pick-up.
Bali presents an array of remarkable sites and attractions scattered throughout the island. Although distances may not appear significant, the challenging traffic conditions make it difficult to move from one location to another quickly. Hence, I would recommend to strategically plan your itinerary, selecting accommodations based on their proximity to planned destinations. Opting for multiple hotels would be convenient to thoroughly explore all regions and minimize unnecessary back-and-forth travel. Each region is unique in its own way and the differences are so distinct that going from one side to another feels like entering a completely different world each time. I recommend staying in the following areas:
- UBUD
- SANUR
- WEST COASTLINE AREA: CANGGU/SEMINYAK/KUTA
- ULUWATU
- NUSA PENIDA
UBUD - THE HEART OF THE ISLAND
Ubud is known as the spiritual heartland of Bali. Traditionally esteemed for its temples and artistic heritage, the village has evolved into a lively focal point that attracts many tourists each year.
Ubud combines a vibrant heart characterized by cafes, shops, street markets, galleries, and yoga studios. Venture beyond the lively hub, rice terraces, majestic waterfalls, verdant forests and sacred temples are just a drive away.
The combination of cultural immersion and natural wonders makes the center of Ubud a perfect base to discover Bali's most enchanting places.
WHAT TO DO
Tirta Empul Temple - Dadong Lulu
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The Holy Spring Water temple, renowned for its purification rituals symbolizing a journey of spiritual rejuvenation and the cleansing of negative energies, has lost some of its magic due to its growing popularity over the past years. Despite its breathtaking beauty, the temple now attracts large crowds of tourists, diminishing its once sacred ambiance. While I still believe it is worth visiting it, it's crucial to arrive early to escape the crowds. Be prepared with a change of clothes as the experience involves getting wet, and consider wearing flip flops in public facilities. Keep in mind there is an entry fee, and it's mandatory to cover your body as a sign of respect. Check out the entire site, not only the main sacred pool
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Pura Mengening
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A good alternative if Tirta Empul is very crowded - another amazing Holy Spring Water temple
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Kanto Lampo Waterfall
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Incredible waterfall but extremely crowded now due to a huge line of tourists that wait to be photographed. Arrive early if you want to fully experience this little heaven on earth
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Ceking Rice Terrace
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Certainly one of Bali's most well-known rice terraces, this location has become overly crowded and touristy, it has lost all its magic. Unless you like being dressed up and put on a swing, or take photos with big "I love Bali" signs, I would avoid it at all costs.
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Sidemen Rice Terrace
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An excellent alternative to experience authentic rice terraces, this countryside is truly breathtaking. If you wake up early and explore during sunrise, you'll witness the sunlight gracefully illuminating the lush surroundings, creating a radiant spectacle with Mount Agung in the background. Simply wow!
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Tibumana Waterfall
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Make sure to stop by my friend Widana Merta's brand new warung to buy some fruit before getting to the waterfall
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Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
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There's an entry fee to walk around this incredible forest teeming with monkeys. Be careful as they could be aggressive and tend to steal anything you hold in your hands, or have in your bags!
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Campuhan Ridge Walk
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A 2km long beautiful and scenic walking trail - it is a perfect escape from the busy streets of Ubud and it is suitable for people of all ages and fitness levels. The best times to go is early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as the the light is perfect for taking pics!
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Batu Lantang Waterfall
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Due to its unpopularity, it is very intimate and definitely a calm and quiet place to relax. Keep in mind that there are no available tourist facilities yet.
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Nungnung Waterfall
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Truly a hidden gem - my favorite waterfall in Bali. Accessing it requires a bit more effort, involving a hike down a lush tropical gorge. On the way back, make sure to stop by the entrance to get a cold drink to quench your thirst... you will be exhausted after the never-ending steep staircase!
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Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
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The famous temple on the lake, it used to be a magical place of the Balinese culture before being invaded by tourists. I honestly think it has completely lost its magic, the ticket is quite pricy, and the place itself has turned into an amusement park. If you intend to go, I recommend going early in the morning. Make sure to bring warm clothes as it could be cold!
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Handara Iconic Gate
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Unless you want a cool photo to post on IG, I think it isn't worth your time and money. It might look cool but it is simply the entrance of a Golf Resort. It is so crowded that it is almost impossible to take a decent photo. Don't let IG fool you!
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Gate of Heaven Lempuyang Temple
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Do you know the truth behind these stunning photos? The incredible water reflections are created by placing a mirror just beneath the camera lens to create the look of reflective water in each photo. Huge line, even early in the morning. Did I drive very far away just to get the famous shot of the Heaven Gate? I sure did! Would I do it again? Definitely not!
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Tirta Gangga
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Just as touristy as the Heaven Gate, this water temple was the former royal palace. Step on the stones across the ponds to take your perfect shot. Definitely worth a visit if you happen to be in the east side of the island
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Mount Batur
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Experiencing the sunrise from the volcano on my birthday was truly an unforgettable experience. Setting your alarm for a 2am hike is definitely worthwhile. Make sure you wear appropriate footwear and bring warm clothing, as it can get windy and chilly. My guide picked me up from my hotel and took me to the starting point, where we had breakfast alongside other groups. This adventure has gained immense popularity, so if you're there during the peak season, be prepared for a line to climb the volcano. Upon reaching the top, relish the warmth of the first sunlight soothing your tired body, and enjoy warm drinks.
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Besakih Great Temple
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Bali's Mother Temple is an expansive complex featuring clan temples and shrines. In my personal perspective, this destination doesn't receive the recognition it truly deserves. It stands as the holiest and most enchanting place in Bali. The presence of the majestic Mount Agung as a backdrop adds to the overall spectacle of the complex. Although a bit distant from the main centers, the journey is well worth it. To enhance your experience, make sure to arrive early to avoid large tourist buses. Don't forget to bring your sarong or rent one at the entrance. You could also opt for a guided tour!
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Sukawati Art Market
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Amazing mall-market a local friend of mine recommended. You can find anything your heart desires! Be careful because you'll be seen as a walking wallet and it will be hard to say no to those sweet eyes!
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Chez Monique Silversmith Classes
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Fun activity to do during a lazy day in Ubud! Create your own personal ring to always remember your Bali adveture!
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WHERE TO EAT AROUND UBUD
Warung D'Carik Tibumana
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Escape the sun's relentless embrace, surrender to the gentle breeze and savor delicious Mi goreng and mango juice beneath the shelter of a tiki hut, where the view unfolds to reveal lush palm trees and rice fields
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OKA Agriculture Bali
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Tasty food and incredible selection of coffees and teas with a lovely view. Definitely try the Luwak coffee!
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Rouge Restaurant, Bar & Villas.
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Make sure to check their entertainment program, they always have incredible shows while you enjoy delicious meals or drinks! Sushi is very good and rich!
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Reina Jungla
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Lovely Spanish-owned place for delicious meals. Try the maritozzi and chocolate cookie... you'll thank me later!
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WYAH Art & Creative Space
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Let your creative soul get inspired by the beauty of this place. Gorgeous location and delicious food!
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Avocado Warung Ubud
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If you love avocado, you know where to go... Everything is avocado-based. A true heaven for avocado lovers!
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Bollywood Indian Cuisine Ubud
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If you are tired to eat local food and you want to try something different, this Indian restaurant is what you need. Delicious chicken tikka masala and cheese naan
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Cafe Lotus
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I had my birthday dinner in this traditional restaurant. When you walk in, you will see in front of you what seems to be a sanctuary for ceremonies. I managed to convince the owners to let me have this private location to celebrate. They served incredible food and from there we were able to watch the dance show. An unforgettable night!
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Ely's Kitchen Ubud
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Delicious local dinner - the best part is the desserts! Be ready for the show
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WHERE TO SPEND THE NIGHT:
The Megananda Bali
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Where to start! One of my favorite places in Bali. The room is just incredible and the private pool overlooking the rice fields will take your breath away. I met my dear friend Indri here who took amazing care of me. Waking up to a delicious floating breakfast will heal your soul!
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Sunshine Villas Ubud
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Literally heaven on earth! Opt for a room with your own private pool if you want more privacy. The surroundings are spectacular. This place is the true essence of Bali!
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Surya Kembar Villas
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By accident, we reserved the private pool villa with two bedrooms without considering its size. Upon arrival, we discovered that we had a spacious 165m² villa for just the two of us. The place was so big that we almost had to use our phones to locate each other! After purchasing some fruit at the supermarket, we left it at the front desk. To our pleasant surprise, the next morning greeted us with a delicious breakfast, featuring our fruit expertly prepared. It goes without saying that we had an amazing time!
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The Kayon Resort Ubud
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Highly recommended poolside meal, even if you are not staying at this hotel
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Pondok Babakan Hidden Paradise
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Peaceful place away from the hustle of the city. Surrounded by lush nature and managed by lovely people. The three-house apartment is truly exceptional!
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Hanging Gardens Of Bali
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I spent the day of my birthday here and it was definitely one for the books. You don't necessarily need to spend the night, as they offer daily experiences to have access to the infinity pool, restaurants and spa. Truly a hidden oasis!
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WEST COASTLINE AREA: CANGGU, SEMINYAK & KUTA
As previously mentioned each part of the island is unique and the differences are quite distinct. While Ubud is known as the cultural heart with its incredible nature, art galleries, temples and historical landmarks, the West Coast boasts a laid-back vibe with surf-friendly beaches, trendy cafes and restaurants, and vibrant nightlife. This area is where the traditions meet the contemporary Western world. If you're in search of high-end dining, luxury boutiques, and top-tier bars and beach clubs, it is the destination for you.
Seminyak is a bit more expensive compared to other areas around, but it proves to be an excellent holiday choice for those seeking a fun nightlife, couples on honeymoon, and families alike;
Kuta is a highly touristy destination known for its affordable party scene and hotels. The area is crowded and congested, situated between busy streets with fast-food joints and lively bars. The 5 km-long beach is a hub for surfers, masseurs, colorful sarong vendors, and various street performers;
Canggu has rapidly transformed from a quiet rural area frequented by sporadic surfers into a popular entertainment hub and expat haven. The unique mix of electronic music and traditional activities has been replaced by a lively party atmosphere.
MY FAVORITE PLACES:
Shelter Cafe Seminyak
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Downstairs, you'll find a charming boutique store, while the upstairs features an open rooftop café. Enjoy great coffee and a variety of delicious food with a view.
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Coffee Cartel
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Coffee Cartel in Bali offers a chic and cozy atmosphere with exceptional coffee and a menu full of delicious dishes. The trendy décor and friendly staff make it a must-visit spot for coffee lovers and foodies alike.
Have them write whatever you heart desires on your coffee! My cappuccino said "FRAN IN BALI"
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KYND COMMUNITY SEMINYAK
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It is a vibrant and stylish café known for its plant-based menu and Instagram-worthy dishes. With a welcoming atmosphere and colorful décor, it’s a favorite spot for health-conscious foodies. There are many vegan options as well!
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Starbucks Reserve Dewata
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If you're a Starbucks lover, you must visit this one. It will take your breath away.
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Azoria Bali
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My favorite restaurant in Canggu. Their pizzas are incredible and that should mean a lot coming from an Italian! It's cozy with lovely staff. I usually play checkers after my meal while enjoying their delicious drinks.
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The Avocado Factory
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With a creative menu featuring delicious avocado-based dishes and a relaxed, tropical vibe, it’s a paradise for avocado lovers. Between a dish and another, I even decided to buy their t-shirt!
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The Slow Kitchen and Bar
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The Slow Kitchen and Bar offers more than just a meal, it provides a holistic experience that delights all the senses. Whether you're a foodie, an art enthusiast, or simply looking for a place to unwind, this place has something to offer. Its unique blend of sophisticated design, exceptional cuisine, and warm hospitality makes it a standout destination in Bali's vibrant culinary scene.
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La Favela
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La Favela, with its jungle-inspired décor, offers great food, amazing cocktails, and music to dance the night away. The place is huge and truly incredible. We enjoyed tacos and a selection of gin, making for a memorable evening.
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Luigi's Hot Pizza
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It is more than just a pizza place, it provides a fun, vibrant dining experience that captures the essence of Canggu. Even though I did not particularly enjoy their food, cocktails were good and so was the music and vibes.
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Old Man's
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A social hub where people from all over the world come together to enjoy good food, great company, and the beauty of Bali. Whether you're stopping by for a casual breakfast, a post-surf lunch, or a night of dancing under the stars, Old Man's offers an unforgettable experience
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FINNS Beach Club
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A perfect blend of relaxation, luxury, and entertainment. It is the perfect place to lounge by the pool, enjoy a gourmet meal, and even dance the night away. Enjoy their signature cocktail -- the "Finns Colada" by the infinity pool!
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ShiShi Nightclub & Izakaya Lounge
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There are three floors, each offering a distinct atmosphere to cater to a variety of tastes. The ground floor features an elegant lounge, perfect for those looking to enjoy a more relaxed evening with a touch of sophistication. The second level houses the main dance floor, where state-of-the-art lighting and sound systems create an electrifying environment. The rooftop terrace, with its stunning views of Seminyak, offers a more laid-back vibe, complete with comfortable seating and a cocktail bar. Make sure you are not wearing sandals otherwise they won't let you in, unless you rent shoes at the front desk.
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Atlas Beach Club
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A top-tier beach club experience in Bali! It truly is a masterpiece of modern design, seamlessly integrating contemporary elegance with tropical charm. Incredible infinity pool overlooking the ocean, great music and delicious cocktails!
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Chill Reflexology
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Be careful when choosing the type of massage, as some can be very intense and not quite relaxing. The place is very clean and staff extremely friendly and kind
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WHERE TO SPEND THE NIGHT:
88 EAST
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A massive apartment overlooking the rice fields with lovely swimming pools. Great location and lovely staff. Definitely one of my favorite places to stay!
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Oryza Residence
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Oryza Residence offers a luxurious and tranquil retreat that is perfect for those seeking to unwind and reconnect with nature. The combination of stunning accommodations, exquisite dining, exceptional service, and serene surroundings makes it a standout destination in Ubud. The property is nestled amidst lush rice fields and tropical gardens, providing a sense of seclusion and tranquility. The private pool and terrace area were perfect for lounging and soaking up the natural beauty of the surroundings!
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ULUWATU
Welcome to Uluwatu, he dreamy part of the island marked by its dramatic cliffs, pristine beaches, and renowned surf breaks. Sunset enthusiasts will be enchanted by the breathtaking display of red and orange hues painting the sky. Uluwatu truly offers a blend of natural beauty and amenities.
Uluwatu has plenty of luxurious accommodations, from cliffside villas to boutique resorts with amazing ocean views. The dining scene is diverse, with beachfront cafes serving fresh seafood and restaurants offering both local and international cuisine.
The nightlife in Uluwatu is vibrant but relaxed. Beach clubs and bars are popular spots to enjoy live music, DJ sets, and cocktails with a view of the ocean.
Keep in mind that unless you plan on staying at the resort the entire time, which I highly wouldn't recommend, Uluwatu is not a walking destination. It is important to find a way to move around the area if you are not comfortable driving yourself!
Savaya Bali
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This stunning club features an infinity pool with breathtaking ocean views. While it is on the pricier side, booking a VIP table is highly recommended to avoid the crowded main area. Without a VIP reservation, you might find yourself cramped with limited space to move around. You can purchase event tickets or simply visit for a relaxing experience.
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Single Fin Bali
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It is more than just a surf bar; it’s a cultural landmark where surf enthusiasts, sunset admirers, and nightlife seekers come together to enjoy the best of Bali’s coastal charm. Whether you visit for the waves, the views, or the vibrant atmosphere, Single Fin Bali promises an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of Bali’s laid-back yet adventurous lifestyle. Good drinks while watching the sunset, what else?!
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WHERE TO SPEND THE NIGHT:
Grün Resort Uluwatu
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Lovely tree-house apartment that you can reach with a gold cart. Amazing stay and gorgeous pool with a incredible view over the ocean!
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Airship Bali Villa
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Airship Bali Villa offers a truly exceptional retreat in Bali, where modern luxury harmonizes with the natural beauty of Uluwatu's landscape
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NUSA PENIDA
You can reach Nusa Penida by taking a fast boat from Sanur or Padang Bai in Bali. The journey is approximately 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the departure point. The Sanur harbor has just undergone major renovations and has improved its facilities and enhanced services.
Even though the island is less developed than its popular neighbors, there are various accommodations ranging from budget-friendly guesthouses to luxurious resorts, providing a range of options to suit different preferences. The Mesare Resort has become home to me so that's the only place I'll ever stay at in Nusa Penida.
WHAT TO DO - BEST BEACHES
Kelingking Beach Nusa Penida Island
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MY FAVORITE PLACE ON EARTH! Kelingking Beach, also known as T-Rex Beach, stands out as one of Nusa Penida's and the world's most renowned beaches due to its peculiar shape and captivating surroundings. The view from up above will take your breath away but the real beauty awaits those who venture down to the beach. Reaching the beach will be quite difficult and dangerous. Even though it features a more secure setup, the path is VERY steep and narrow, accompanied by bamboo railings throughout. If you don’t exercise often or don't have good shoes with you, maybe consider just enjoying the beach from the viewpoint. If you are brave enough to venture all the way down and reach the beach, you will be greeted by soft sand but shore-break dumping waves. This isn’t a beach for novice swimmers so avoid swimming if you are not sure you can handle these conditions. I strongly suggest waiting for the sunset, as it has been one of the most enchanting displays I've ever witnessed. Ensure you begin your climb back before it gets completely dark, as the return journey without sunlight could be quite challenging!
Regardless of where you admire Kelingking Beach from, the stunning coastline will conquer your heart.
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Tembeling Beach and Forest
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Definitely a must visit on Nusa Penida! The natural pools are beautiful and the water is refreshingly cold! Go early to avoid many tourists invading your space.
You can either walk down or pay for a scooter ride. It is a 30 minute walk and the road is fine, but only recommended if you are moderately fit. I paid 50k per person for a one way scooter ride back up - but be warned, it's a very bumpy ride. Trust the local guys they know what they are doing but I would wear a helmet for your safety! I don't recommend driving this road on your own scooter unless you are very comfortable with driving steep and dangerous rocky roads.
There is also a lady with a little stall at the pools that sells cool drinks and snacks!
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Pandan Beach
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Most people spend time at Crystal Bay, but the quietness of Pandan is worth the additional 20 min walk. Take the broken stairs on the left side of crystal beach to enjoy some peace away from lazy tourists that stop at Crystal Bay!
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Guyangan Waterfall Nusa Penida
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Breathtaking views! You will need to be moderately fit to go to this spot, there is a lot of steep steps and hiking back up will test your fitness - there are huge gaps where can fall right through.
It's not actually a waterfall - it's a stream from a pipe but it's worth the hike! If you walk past the temple, you will discover hidden natural infinity pools! You are required to wear a sarong, which will make the hike even harder!
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Crystal Bay Nusa Penida
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I don't mind this place, but frankly Crystal beach is just a black sand beach with a lot of stray dogs and many people. Water is averagely clear for Indonesian standards. If you are in the area, it could be worth a visit!
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Diamond Beach
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Diamond beach is absolutely stunning. After you arrive you have pay 35k per person to get in, but it’s worth it because you get access to both Atuh Beach and Diamond Beach. Don't look down if you are afraid of heights. It is truly magic at sunset!
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WHERE TO SPEND THE NIGHT:
The Mesare Resort Nusa Penida
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This heavenly place has become home to me so that's the only place I'll ever stay at in Nusa Penida.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Fran
🌎 Wanderlust, adventure traveler, & photographer
📍 All around the world
Without music life would B♭
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