A Jazz Guide to New Orleans
Frenchman Street - the Jazz Mecca
We're not starting with the French Quarter in a New Orleans article? No, we are not.
Frenchmen Street has retained the qualities Bourbon Street used to have. Over the course of several blocks, you will be spoiled for choice in terms of live music, bars, and even a few nice restaurants. The street practically shuts down on the weekends with so many pedestrians around. For those not exclusively interested in music, the Frenchman Art Bazaar offers a wonderful respite from the raucous, with local vendors selling various arts and crafts!
Of course, this article focuses on music. And Frenchman Street has some of the best musical clubs in the city. The Spotted Cat is beloved by locals and visitors alike for its jazz combos and hole-in-the-wall feel - a real reminder that jazz is not just for the rich but also the common person. With three acts a night, you will have no trouble hearing some awesome music here. Along Frenchman Street, you will be spoiled for choice, and really any bar or club playing music that sounds good is worth stopping in. If you are a planner and need another spot on your itinerary, Three Muses is a particularly good bet for jazz.
Of course, New Orleans is a city that loves a good street party. Every weekend, Frenchman Street feels like a street party. If you're lucky, a brass band might even just be camped out in front of a fried chicken shop playing some of the best brass-band jazz you'll hear on your trip (I certainly had this experience). To maximize the people watching - and maybe street musician listening as well - the terrace of Dat Dog, a local hot dog chain, is the place to sit. Just ordering a beer and taking in the crowds and sounds of Frenchman Street was the highlight of my trip to New Orleans.
French Quarter Spots
And so we move to the part of the city you probably expected: the French Quarter. The French Quarter is an unusual mix of history and touristic hubbub. Because of this, the opportunities to experience jazz in the French Quarter are surprisingly plentiful. It would be remiss to not start with Preservation Hall. "No thrills" would be an understatement here; food and drink are non existent here, and bathroom facilities are limited. However, Preservation Hall's concerts - running since the 1950's - remain the premier place to see jazz in the French Quarter. Add on the fact that the Hall just underwent a much needed refurbishment, and this is the must visit spot to start in the French Quarter.
When you hear "French Quarter", "Bourbon Street" is probably the echo you respond with. And yes, Bourbon Street ranks among America's best party streets. Live music bellows out from many of the bars; however, the number of jazz establishments is about equal to the number of strip clubs (roughly less than 5). The music is fun (particularly the dueling pianos at Pat O'Briens) and this is an absolutely a must experience; however it won't whet your jazz whistle.
The best place on Bourbon Street to experience jazz is Fritzel's. The club dates back to 1969 and boasts 365 nights of jazz every year. Despite being casual and surrounded by the other types of bars on Bourbon Street, Fritzel's is a breath of fresh air with its classic jazz. Add in nice cocktails and beers and you have a great stop on Bourbon Street for jazz. If you're anything like me, you'll stop at Fritzel's after finishing a hurricane and questionably trying a grenade along Bourbon Street!
If you're also like me, you won't stay out later than 11 PM. However, that means despite the more limited hours, Cafe du Monde on Jackson Square is still open! The classic place for beignets used to be open 24/7, but now closes overnight. However, this is a must visit in New Orleans (unless you have celiacs and can't eat beignets).
Café du Monde also deserves a shout on this jazz guide. Café du Monde's original location is right next to Jackson Square, the park that anchors all of the French Quarter. It is an absolute hub for street performers going to ply their trade and make a little money. On the weekends, brass bands gather right outside Café du Monde and play for tips, delighting diners and offering an excellent opportunity to hear some jazz!
Of course, jazz also has a swanky side to things. On the south side of the French Quarter, there are a number of hotel with lovely bars featuring nightly jazz music. The Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta is probably the most famous, with awesome shows most nights of the week. Make sure to buy tickets if you want to attend, as shows are ticketed.
Outside the hotels, establishments like the 21st Amendment Bar brings jazz in a beautiful environment. Set in a famous now defunct hotel - La Louisianie - 21st Amendment pays tribute to all the great food and drink known at the hotel. Add on some great jazz acts and you have a great night out!
Further Uptown: The Garden District and More
Of course, New Orleans is not only the French Quarter. Most people who breathe and love New Orleans spend every waking moment they can further uptown in neighborhoods like Uptown (duh), Audubon, and the famed Garden District. Historic craft houses, amazing restaurants, cute boutiques, and lots of great bars mean this area really is the place where New Orleans' people go to hang out. Visiting these parts of the city are essential to get a good view on New Orleans as a modern city.
Of course, the fanciest entry on this article needs to be balanced with the least fancy on the list. Tipitina's is a favorite for its parties and raucous good times on most nights of the week. The musical fare can vary quite a lot of Tipitina's, from blues to rock to jazz. Make sure to check the calendar in advance to see who is playing. The Maple Leaf Bar is another fantastic option for music. For the longest time, Rebirth Brass Band had a Tuesday night residency - a must do for any jazz lover. However, this has dwindled post COVID - but they still come around! There is always a great list of shows here so check the calendar!
Of course, this is only scratching the surface. New Orleans has so many other amazing jazz institutions. Make sure to ask a local where they like to hang out - you'll be sure to hear some awesome suggestions!
A Few Hotels for Your Consideration
These hotels either have live music, or are located really close to the live music!
Reach out to Mark!
Mark provides all sorts of info to help your travel needs! This includes specific travel itineraries and planning services. Please reach out if you have any questions or would like customized travel services.
Like this guide? Don't be afraid to say thank you and send a tip!
The home for unique & authentic travel
