One Week in Jordan
Amman
Where to Stay
Amman is a city of five million so it can be overwhelming to know where to stay in the city. The neighborhood called Jabal Al Lweibdeh is a good place to stay because of the cafes and restaurants but also because of the proximity to the iconic sights to see in downtown Jordan.
I have spent over three months of my life living in Airbnbs in Amman and, so far, I have only had positive experiences. As always, the best Airbnbs are the ones with lots of positive reviews and, if possible, a Superhost. There are plenty of Airbnbs like this in Jabal Al Lweibdeh.
While you are in this neighborhood stop by for a coffee at one of the many cafes like Rumi Cafe on the main street through Jabal Al Lweibdeh (Al-Shariaah College Street) but avoid the Starbucks at Paris Circle.
Where to Eat
There are lots of good restaurants in Jabal Al Lweibdeh but one of the things that makes this neighborhood a great place to stay is the proximity to some of the iconic downtown restaurants.
Downtown
Rainbow Street
Rainbow Street is worth the visit just to walk and look at the souvenirs. Of course, there are tons of places to buy souvenirs downtown but around Rainbow Street you find more boutiques with unique, higher quality (more expensive) souvenirs.
What to See
Whenever I am in a new place, I like to start at a museum that can give me some context for all of the historical and archaeological sites in the city. The most iconic historical site is the Amman Citadel but I recommend starting at the Jordan Museum to get a broader historical and cultural context.
Leaving Amman
Madaba
Leaving Amman to the South, the first stop is Madaba. Tourists often overlook Madaba if they are not interested in religious history but it is worth the stop to see the mosaic floor of St. George's Greek Orthodox Church.
Mount Nebo
Mount Nebo is the traditional place where Moses looked across the Jordan River into modern-day Palestine. It is worth the drive to the top of Mount Nebo for the view as well as the historical church at the top of the mountain.
The Dead Sea
From Mount Nebo drive northwest towards Al Rama and then southwest towards Swemeh to start driving along the Dead Sea. There are many hotels and resorts along the Dead Sea where you can stay and get the all-inclusive experience. But, for the more adventurous there are public beaches where you can access the Dead Sea without paying for the luxury of showering in a resort to wash off the seawater.
Petra
The image of the Treasury from the Siq is the most famous tourism image in Jordan (the cover image of this guide). It takes at least one day to see the sites in Petra and I highly recommend starting early in the day to beat the crowds. The visitor center and site opens at 6am so I would start before 7am at the latest.
Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum is one of my favorite places in Jordan because it feels one million miles away from the busyness of Amman and the tourists of Petra. Of course, lots of tourists visit Wadi Rum but the sheer vastness of the place gives a sense of peace and serenity in spite of the tourism.
Pro-Tips
Dealing with Tourist Schemes
At the big tourist attractions like Petra, there are schemes to extract a little extra cash from tourists. Right after you enter the site and start walking, you will encounter several men with horses who will offer you "free" rides. The only problem is that they make you pay dearly in tips when you get down. Another one at Petra is that people will offer to show you "secret" or "special" photo ops of the Treasury. Most of the people within the site will actually do whatever service they are offering but be prepared to pay more than you should for such services.
Driving in Jordan
It is possible to rent a car in Jordan but it is a good idea to have an international driving permit. You will also encounter many people who offer guide services. Once again, they are usually offering legitimate services but they might charge you more than you expect. In Jordan, there are also special regulations about who can drive tourists around the country. These laws exist for the safety of the tourists but there are people who try to get away with driving tourists without the proper documentation.
If you are interested in booking a trusted driver to pick you up from the airport or to take you to any of the sites in this guide, I can connect you to the driver that I use whenever I am in Jordan.
Jordan Pass
Finally, Jordan offers something called the Jordan Pass which offers entry into many of the best sites along with the price of the visa. It is well worth it to get the Jordan Pass and even if you only visit Petra, it will pay for itself!
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