Three days in Turin
Why visit Turin?
The capital city of the Piemonte region has a dreamy setting, nestled at the foothills of the Alps whose prominent peaks provide a picturesque backdrop to the acres of red rooftops.
Bordered to the east by the River Po, this part of the city is home to a series of leafy parks and river walks. The Quadrilatero Romano to the northwest is the beating heart of the old city with its warren of narrow streets and lively atmosphere. The city is crisscrossed by a series of grand boulevards which branch out into some of the most beautiful squares imaginable.
Highlights of Turin
Compact and eminently walkable, Turin is a city best explored on foot. Its rich architectural heritage showcases a perfect blend of exuberant Baroque and ornate Art Nouveau, while its street signs are slick and cool in 1920s Art Deco.
Like Bologna, this is a colonnaded city with 18 kilometres of arcaded walkways along its splendid thoroughfares. Start at Piazza Vittorio Veneto at the heart of the city and walk beneath the porticoes of Via Po all the way to Piazza Castello where streets are lined with stately buildings and beautiful old cafés.
Your three-day itinerary starts here
Day 1: Morning
Start your day with an espresso on Piazza Vittorio Veneto, one of the city's most beautiful 19th century squares which opens out onto the River Po. The perfect spot for people watching, it also affords fabulous views across the river of its tree-lined banks and the imposing church of Gran Madre di Dio. Find yourself transported to a 1960s Italian film set as classic orange trams trundle past. Actually this is not such a stretch - Turin was the primary filming location for the comedy caper The Italian Job where getaway cars drive through the porticoed streets, and interrupt a wedding on the steps of the church.
Cross the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I to visit the Church of Gran Madre di Dio
A figure of Vittorio Emanuele I stands proudly on a pediment at the base of the steps accompanied on either side by two statues representing Faith and Religion.
Step inside for an interior view of the dome which is a replica of the Pantheon in Rome, albeit smaller in scale. Around the walls are a number of statues within niches and a particularly striking sculptural Stations of the Cross series. Beneath the dome are four illuminated bas-reliefs depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin. Entrance is free.
Monte dei Cappuccini
From here, a short but worthy climb brings you to Monte dei Cappuccini. The views as you ascend are jaw-dropping, perfectly framed by trees.
In the far distance you'll note the hilltop Baroque Basilica of Superga, burial site of the royal House of Savoy. At the summit is the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini, built in the late 16th century for the Capuchin Order.
With a terrace overlooking the River Po, you can enjoy uninterrupted views of the red rooftops of Turin with the Alps as a backdrop. From here, you also experience the full scale of the iconic Mole Antonelliana, as its dome and spire soar above the surrounding landscape, dwarfing every other aspect of the city as far as the eye can see.
Lunch
You can't come to Turin without stopping for lunch and a coffee at one of the renowned locations of Caffé Vergnano, the oldest coffee roastery in Italy, dating to 1882.
Cafés have retained their traditional, old-world elegance, and service is classy. Coffee arrives on a tray, accompanied by Biscotti and a small glass of sparkling water to cleanse the palate before consumption. They also offer a selection of tasty sandwiches and pastries
Flower Burger: for something a little different...
Turin's first vegan burger spot.
Afternoon:
Piazza Solferino and some fabulous public art
Turin is a city that is absolutely bursting with public art. Really good public art: vivid, dramatic and full of life. Some of the best examples can be found around Piazza Solferino at the southern end of the Quadrilatero. The wonderful Fontana Angelica occupies a prominent position at the top of the Giardino Alfredo Frassati, completed in 1929 by the sculptor Giovanni Riva.
At the opposite end of Giardino Alfredo Frassati stands the equestrian statue of Duke Ferdinand of Genoa, in the act of commanding his troops in battle.
Dating to 1877 by the Italian sculptor Alfonso Balzico, it's a remarkably lifelike representation of a war scene. The stance of the Duke calls for respect and shows confidence yet his eyes betray him, showing fear at what's to come. The bronze detailing is remarkable, from his handlebar moustache to the tassels on his uniform. The level of realism is even more evident in the figure of the wounded horse, slumping to the ground under the weight of his master, nostrils flared and seeming to gasp for breath.
On the sides of the pediment base are two sculptural scenes in high relief. Again, the detailing is extraordinary. On the first one, we bear witness to a flurry of activity: the leader appears to issue a command as their horses jolt to a dramatic stop. On the other side we are privy to the most incredibly meticulous scene of wartime strategising: the figures on the left keep watch while those on the right plot their moves on a map. It's one of the finest pieces of public sculpture I've ever seen. You can't miss it.
Ponte Umberto I
A glorious spectacle at any time but particularly when lit up at night, the Ponte Umberto I is one of the main crossing points on the Po.
Evening strolls along the river paths are highly recommended: the section between the two main bridges is of particular note. Expect sweeping views of abundant forest on side, with the church of Monte dei Cappuccini peering above the trees.
In total contrast, on the western bank near Piazza Vittorio Veneto, you'll find some cool feminist graffiti on what's known as the Murazzi or the quays: a series of walls and arches built during the 19th century to protect the city from flooding. A meeting point for students and young people, this is known as one of the buzziest parts of the city, where pubs and clubs spill out onto the riverside.
Porta Palatina
On the northern edges of Turin, just inside the warren of streets that make up the Quadrilatero Romano, stands the Porta Palatina, one of the best preserved Roman gates in the world. Comprised of two towers, arched windows, chariot entrances and arched walkways, it's one of the city's most awe-inspiring sites: a symbol of the power and might of the Roman Empire. Built c.25 BC, it is the only surviving one of the four original gateways to the town.
Aperitivo
Head for Smile Tree in the Quadrilatero and bag yourself an outdoor table to enjoy the views of Santuario della Consolata.
Dinner
Just around the corner you'll find the fabulous Ristorante Casa Amélie
Definitely one for a special treat
Day 2: Morning
Spend the morning out of doors in some of Turin's most scenic green spaces. Acres of leafy green parkland line the Po on the south-eastern side of Turin.
Here you'll find the gorgeous Parco del Valentino, an oasis of tranquility beloved of locals and tourists alike, offering some spectacular river views and some time out from the hectic pace of city life. And, I might add, the constant honking of car horns. Life slows down here and I was struck by the quietude as a lone kayaker glided away in the distance. An idyllic place to spend a few hours.
Next to the palace, you'll find the Botanic Gardens. Established in the early 18th century, it is home to over 2000 different varieties of plants.
At the southern end of Parco del Valentino is the remarkable Borgo Medievale. Not actually a medieval village, as first impressions might suggest, but a large-scale recreation built in 1884 for the Turin International Exposition.
Afternoon
Dive into Turin's café scene. You cannot visit Turin without sampling one of their specialties, the Bicerin. Let me introduce you to this glorious concoction of molten chocolate and espresso topped with cream, and always served in a glass goblet. Decadent and divine!
Best enjoyed in one of the city's historic cafés, we opted for an outdoor table at Caffé Fiorio, under the porticoes on Via Po.
Enjoy one of the city's panoramic viewing points at Mole Antonelliana
The iconic landmark building of Turin is a striking one, completed in the late 19th century and named after its architect Alessandro Antonelli. Consisting of a square base topped by a dome and spire, at 167.5 metres the Mole Antonelliana was the tallest masonry building in Europe upon completion.
Originally envisioned as a synagogue, the Mole is now home to the very cool Italian National Museum of Cinema. Tracing the history of cinema from the earliest days of photography and the beginning of cinematography in the 1890s, it showcases a large permanent collection of cinematic paraphernalia, props and memorabilia up to the present day.
A personal highlight was the fabulous collection of black & white photos of Italian movie stars throughout the years. A spiral layout, similar to the Solomon R. Guggenheim museum in New York, allows visitors to move upwards through the exhibition levels, while still maintaining a view of the museum space below. Booking in advance is essential.
Aperitivo
La Drogheria - a hip and happening cocktail spot at the heart of the aperitivo scene on Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
It's a fun spot to sit and watch the endless parade of well-dressed locals, and to enjoy those fabulous city views, especially when illuminated at night.
Dinner
A classy but unpretentious wine bar and enoteca, close to the Porta Nuova train station.
Service was highly professional yet warm and friendly, and the atmosphere relaxed. If we hadn't had an early train to catch the following morning, we could easily have spent the evening here. Next time...
Day 3: Morning
Dating to the 16th century, this impressive square was the centre of aristocratic life during the reign of the Savoy dynasty. Here you will find some of the most significant tourist attractions in the city including the following:
Giardini Reale
Behind the Royal Palace you'll find the leafy and peaceful Royal Gardens, a restful place to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are plenty of benches to sit beneath the trees to take best advantage of the palatial surroundings.
Aperitivo
Two options for your last night. First up is the classy La Santa cocktail and wine bar in the Quadrilatero Romano with a wide-ranging wine and cocktail list. Service was friendly and professional, with street-side tables perfect for people-watching.
La Santa, Via Stampatori, 19/h
We also loved: 100 Mila Caffè for casual street side drinks. Favoured by locals, it's easy to see why.
Expect a feast of bar snacks to enjoy with your drinks including nachos with salsa, and some seriously meaty olives. And let's just say they don't scrimp on the Campari in a Spritz - they're super-strong.
100 Mila Caffè, Piazza Madama Cristina, 4/B
Dinner
Pizzeria Il Rospetto: best for casual dining
Located just a few doors down from 100 Mila Caffé (above)
For some truly excellent pizza, get yourself to Il Rospetto at the heart of Piazza Madama. Stop for a street side aperitivo on this lively square and before long, the wafting smell of woodfired cheesy goodness will have lured you, begging and pleading, for one of their tables.
Getting there:
There are no direct flights from Ireland but there are regular departures to both Milan Linate or Milan Malpensa with Aer Lingus or Ryanair. Milan Centrale station is only 1 hour away from Porta Nuova in Turin by fast train.
After four jam-packed days, we were completely and utterly captivated by this lovely city. Eminently livable, we got the sense that this is a real, living and breathing city, and not a playground for tourists. It now seems strange to me that Turin is so often ignored when people talk about the best places to visit in Italy. It deserves better. Just as an aside, the reason we came to Turin in the first place was down to the cook Mimi Thorisson and her beautiful book Old World Italian.
A French native who now lives in Turin, her exquisite and visceral descriptions of the culture and food scene totally captured my imagination and I knew we had to go. Thanks Mimi!
Happy traveling
K xx
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