Did you know that Albania has some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe? Stretching down the southern coastline on the Ionian Sea, the Albanian Riviera is an adventurers dream where high mountains drastically drop to glistening turquoise pebble beaches.
This is the route I took on my Hot Mermaid Summer Solo Backpacking trip in 2022.
A hidden gym, Albania offers affordable options for solo travelers and is the perfect place to go before the rest of the world discovers its beauty!
I found Albanian culture to be fascinating due to its complex history including isolation and dictatorships. There is a lot to learn about this rather less traveled country. Albania should definitely not be over looked when planning your European summer vacation.
Sarandë is the access point of the Albanian Riviera. Stay here for a night or two to rest up and get settled in.
From here rent a car and make your way up north. I recommend making your home base the quant seaside town of Himarë and taking day trips to explore other areas. In this guide I'll highlight Sarandë, Himarë, and Ksamil as great places to stay overnight, and outline other beaches and sights that require day trips.
Sarandë is the largest town and main point of access to the Albanian Riviera. To get here you can either fly into Corfu and take a short ~30 minute ferry, fly from Athens to Sarandë/Corfu, or take a 10 hour bus from Athens.
I took the overnight bus for €35 from Athens. The ride was around 10 hours long and included a rest stop halfway. This was a unique experience as everyone on the bus were Albanian/Greek. Taking the bus is definitely the least comfortable option, but it was perfect for a budget backpacker.
Once in Sarandë I highly recommend renting a car to take day trips and get off the beaten path, the Albanian Riviera is a mix of mountains and beaches, there are lots of beautiful things to explore that are not accessible by public transportation. I don’t remember seeing any busses/public transportation during my trip in June.
Sarandë for one night and
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I used a local company, EasyGo Car Rental to rent a car. It was easy and they provided great service.
Ksamil is a popular tourist destination for those visiting the Albanian Riviera. It is bustling and offers family friendly options for beach clubs and water activities. It feels as if you were in Bora Bora with the white sand and crystal clear water. Ksamil is more expensive than the beaches up north as it is close to Sarandë and built up for tourism
I stayed at Johns Guesthouse in Ksamil that offered a beautiful view of the town. The terrace has a dreamy setting to watch the sunset with the backdrop of the island of Corfu. This bnb was a short 15 minute walk to the main beaches and was a perfect option for budget travelers.
Ksamil was beautiful but I preferred the quieter towns and beaches up north. It can be extremely busy here and you must arrive early to the beach clubs to get a good spot. The average price for two chairs and an umbrella was €20.
John’s Guesthouse in Ksamil offered a beautiful view of the town as well as a dreamy setting to watch the sunset with the island of Corfu in the distance.
I enjoyed the location as it was just far enough to be away from the noise and partying, but just a short 15 minute walk to the main beaches. It is a perfect option for budget travelers.
Beshiku was PACKED around dinner time. It's a very casual "Fast Food" joint for gyros, grilled meat, tzatziki and pita. My meal was delicious and I recommend for trying local Greek/Albanian food.
I don't think there is a better place in Ksamil (other than John's Guesthouse) to see the sunset. This rooftop bar is in the center of town at the highest elevation. It was pretty cool and they have a great sound system/light display.
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Road-trip to Himarë
As you make your way up to Himarë, there are some great places to stop along the way.
Beaches
Stop and take a dip at these relaxed and quiet beaches.
Stopping for lunch at Ujvara Restaurant is a must! Set on the banks of multiple cool and refreshing waterfalls, it is such a unique scene. You would never expect this natural spring to be hidden behind the walls of this restaurant right off the highway!
Porto Palermo is a castle situated in the Porto Palermo Bay. The fort served as former Soviet submarine base during the communist regime in Albania. It's a great stop to stretch your legs and learn more about the history of the region. As it is on a bay, there are some great beaches to explore as well.
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Himarë
Arriving in Himarë, you'll be greeted by warm faces and sunshine. I recommend making Himarë your home base and taking day trips to explore other areas. It's a cute beach town with great restaurants, nightlife, and beaches.
Himarë is a quaint beachside town about 1.5 hours north of Sarandë. It offers beautiful beaches with great restaurants and nightlife. It is the perfect location for taking day trips as it is very central. You can find great accommodation options close to the beach at affordable prices.
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Stay
Margarita Guesthouse was in the perfect location, walking distance to the beach, off a gorgeous quiet street with beautiful bougainvalleas.
Margarita Guesthouse is run by a lovely Greek/Albanian family, it exceeded my expectations for a bed and breakfast in Albania and was very reasonably priced, I believe I paid about $35 a night in June (before high season).
Albanian breakfast is very fresh and delicious. The included breakfast consisted of feta cheese, cucumber and tomato slices, hard boiled eggs, toast, orange juice, coffee, traditional pastries and more.
This place has a great view of the beach and is perfect to get a morning coffe or afternoon drink. Sit by the window and enjoy the crystal clear water below. They also serve crepes, pizza, and typical Mediterranean food from the region.
I loved this green restaurant across the street from the beach.
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The cutest cantaloupe cocktail from the beach club right below La Famiglia restaurant.
Do
Take a stroll down the beachfront promenade during sunset to see the city come to life. The streets are full of kids playing in the street, vendors selling artisan crafts, food, and carnival games. The restaurants along the water come alive at night and there are many options to choose from. Himarë is also known for its trendy beach clubs which are full during high season.
Take a boat tour to see the Albanian Riviera’s famous coastline from the sea. The contrast of gorgeous stone mountains meeting the crystal clear turquoise waters is a sight meant to be seen from a boat. Walking to the dock along the main beach, you will see various tour operators offering boat tours. There are different options but I enjoyed a four hour group tour With Himare Seas the Days. The price was roughly $40 per person in June.
The tour goes north up the coastline and passes by Jale beach, Gjipe beach, private beaches only accessible by boat, Plahzi e pirateve, Sant Andreas Bay, with a 1-2 hour stop in gorgeous Grama Bay.
The awesome part of this tour is that it takes you to small, secluded beaches in Llogara National Park that are only accessible by boat. We spent a couple hours at Grama Bay beach basking in the sun and swimming in the refreshing crystal clear water.
This tour is a perfect morning or afternoon activity and is a must while you’re in the Albanian Riviera.
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View from Gramma Bay Beach, one of the stops on the boat tour
Day Trips from Himarë
After having spent some time enjoying Himarë, it’s time to see what else the Albanian Riviera has to offer.
Gjipe Beach
Set below the tiny quaint town of Vuno, Gjipe beach was one of my favorite beaches and is a great day trip from Himarë.
You can also choose to stay at the Gjipe Eco Campground, literally right on the beach! I stayed here a night and it was so amazing stepping out of my tent and walking down to the beach.
Drive 30-40 minutes north up the coast to Gjipe beach. You’ll arrive at a parking lot, pay around $3 for parking, and hike 10-15 minutes down a dirt road to reach the beach.
Behind Gjipe Beach is Gjipe Canyon. You can take a hike into the canyon and take a refreshing dip in the crystal clear sea after. This was one of my favorite beaches as it is secluded and surrounded by nature. There are a couple of restaurants on the beach serving Albanian food, and you can also rent SUPs/paddleboards.
After sunset the crowd clears out and it becomes a Gjipe Eco Campground. I met people from all over the world volunteering here and also learned that the Albanian Riviera is a large producer of olive oild and the area around the canyon is an olive tree farm.
On the way there/back, stop to grab a delicious bite at Restaurant Marko. The restaurant is right off the highway passing through Vuno and has an amazing view of the green valley and sea below. They serve traditional Greek/Albanian food such as grilled meat, tzatziki, bread, feta, and fresh greek salad.
Jale Beach is between Himarë and Gjipe beach. Right before the town of Vuno (coming from Himarë) you'll come across a road leading down to Jale Beach. I loved this drive because you have great views of the sea and its crystal clear water and Jale beach is actually known for the intense color of its water. Take a swim and enjoy the sunset at the many beach clubs.
One of my favorite parts of the Albanian Riviera was driving and making sense of the contrasting scenery. To really get a taste for how incredible this area is, take a drive through Dhermi and up the Llogora Pass. As one of the best coastal drives in the world, you will not want to miss it.
On the way, stop at a local bakery to pick up some roadtrip snacks. Try Burek, a traditional Balkan flakey dough pastry with endless options of fillings such as meat, cheese, spinach, or potatoes.
Enjoy the view as you drive up the zig zag road to the lookout point at Panorama Llogora. The winding road up this high mountain pass shows stunning views of the sea down below.
Here you can park and watch as paragliders take off and soar through the sky. The view from this lookout point is one of a kind as it offers panoramic views showing the spectacular contrast of the Albanian Riviera.
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If you continue driving after reaching the peak of the pass, you’ll notice the scenery begin to transform into a forest with log cabin style restaurants and hotels. You would never imagine that just 15 minutes over the mountain there were white sandy beaches and crystal clear water! Two completely contrasting ecosystems so close together.
Stop at the tourist center to learn more about the area and enjoy the scenery. This was as far as I got in exploring but I'm sure there are even more beautiful places/forest hikes if you continue driving north.
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Dhermiu & Drymades
Dhermiu Beach and Drymades Beach are the last beaches/towns before you leave the Albanian Riviera and start climbing the Llogora Pass. The town of Dhermi is beautiful and known to be on the more expensive side as it is home to some of the best beach clubs and resorts. Definately more upscale than Himare, but a completley different vibe. Himare feels more homey and local, while Dhermiu and Drymades are where you want to go to for more privacy and exclusivity. As a backpacker or budget traveler I recommend Himare.
Dhermi beach is known to be where the more wealthy people hang out on vacation. I only saw it from the boat tour, and it was beautiful. It is definitely a place for those looking for more upscale accommodations and beach clubs.
Last summer I embarked on my first solo backpacking trip through Europe and the Mediterranean coined “Hot Mermaid Summer Solo Backpacking Trip”. I was in the search of the clearest water, and sunniest Mediterranean skies. My three month trip included Calabria Italy, the Albanian Riviera, Greek islands, Austria, Slovenia, and Southern Spain. Before this trip I lived in Spain for a year teaching English! I love exploring places off the beaten path and learning about local cultures as I travel. On my page you can find travel guides for the less traveled, but most worthwhile places.
