Food is an important part of any destination, and Marrakesh is no exception. Some of the most stunning scenes I saw during my visit involved seeing local vendors selling slews A-tier quality ingredients in the streets: vegetables, fruits, meats, you name it, they sold it.
Dining in Morocco is a love hate relationship for me. The best Moroccan food is eaten at home. Chances are you won't get an invite for couscous with a Moroccan grandmother. To get "Moroccan cuisine" you end up going to touristic restaurants. Some are good, some are mediocre. If you ask a Moroccan for a restaurant tip, you'll get directed to an Italian restaurant or somewhere serving "exotic" foreign food that you could probably get at home.
That said, Marrakesh's restaurants - even the touristic ones - offer an immense array of culinary experiences. Between "sha'abi" low level cuisine, fine dining for tourists, and non-Moroccan restaurants you are sure to find a great array of food. This guide aims to give some restaurant recommendations: first with super authentic food, second with some more modern or fine dining Moroccan options, and finally with some non-Moroccan options within the city.
NOTE: I cannot verify sites will not be closed due to the earthquake. I have added some links to donate to charities assisting relief efforts in Morocco below.
Like this guide and need more than just Marrakesh tips? Check out my Ultimate Guide to Morocco! With over 200 recommendations around the country including Fes, Tangier, Casablanca, Essaouira, Ouarzazate, Marrakesh, and more, this is everything you need for your trip!
When we talk about "traditional" food, of course this includes tajines, tanjia (tajines vase-shaped brother), pastilla (fried pastry filled with meat or veggies), couscous, and brochettes (basically kebabs). However, there are some other specialities to look out for: dips like za'alouk (an eggplant pepper dip), harira (a spicy soup), fried fish, and even snails. My descriptions should point as to what dishes you should look to eat at each.
Every night at 4 PM in the evening, locals haul (with the help of mules) huge stands to set up a market of restaurants in the center of the square. Seeing the owners haul their stands from one of the touristy cafes while sipping a tea is a really fun way to spend the afternoon.
The food stands are not for the light of heart. People are constantly harassing you in every language they can yell. Over half of the stalls are filled with trash fare that barely justifies its cost. My fiancé thought determining where to eat was the worst part of our whole trip to Morocco.
First rule - never go to a restaurant where the food is not cooked in the center of a U shaped table. These other restaurants - with long tables - are tourist fodder. Second rule - follow the locals. They know the stands to go to. Third tip - if you need help following the locals, aim to go on a Friday as this is the day where locals are most likely to eat at the square.
The result? An amazing and cheap food experience and a chance to rub elbows with Marrakesh locals - a rare experience. My favorite is a fish stand selling fried prawns, fish, and calamari and serving up a delicious eggplant dip. There are also several places serving up delicious harira soup and dates. If you dare, try the snails (all the stands are basically the same). The broth resembles a beef broth that is highly divisive, but for 10 dirham it's worth the experience.
Bottom line, hold your own and spend an evening eating through the square. It's worth it.
Over time, Chez Brahim has started to veer more touristic. However, the space has a bit of old world magic that makes it a great place to enjoy a tajine. Particularly popular is the lamb tajine
Very recently relocated, Dar l'Hasira is a gem of a restaurant for local cuisine. At this restaurant, you'll have some of the best tajines and couscous you can try outside of someones home. Particularly tasty is if you order the tajine with prunes or couscous with tfaya (a current mixture).
Amal is a non profit that helps women afflicted by trauma and violence to recover and hone their skills in the culinary world. The result? The closest thing you can get to a home cooked meal by a Moroccan. Amal - despite only being open for lunch - is immensely popular, so make a reservation. If you can go on a Friday, the couscous (only available on Fridays) is the star of the whole show
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Another spot to look for: on the street where Naranj is located (see below), there are several bakeries. Some serve sweets like the sweet horns that are common throughout Morocco. Other's serve flatbreads and m'semen in the mornings to locals. These are great ways to experience local culture and taste some immensely delicious breads.
Modern/Finer Dining Interpretations
There are a lot of restaurants with more modern or finer dining versions of the Moroccan classics. That said, most of these restaurants are more geared to tourists. That doesn't mean they are not good - just not necessarily a place where you'll be around locals. The cuisine is definitely good and offers some truly unique gourmet meals. Many of these options are also beautiful terraces with impeccable views over the Medina and stunning sunsets with dinner.
NoMad - a fun quirky play on "North Medina" - has been a centerpiece of the fine dining scene in Marrakesh since it opened. Situated over three floors - the open top roof terrace being the pièce de resistance - NoMad is an elegant option for delicious food. The cauliflower and lamb burger are both standouts of the menu
A trendy terrace restaurant in the northern part of the Medina, you can see it from above by the wonderful little spherical lamps decorating the space. Known for its delicious non alcoholic cocktails, L'mida is situated in a wonderful space. The food leans a more modern interpretation of the Moroccan classics (tajines, pastilla, etc), but is still delicious
Dardar is an Instagrammer heaven. A beautiful terrace over the southern part of the Medina? Check. Live DJs and music? Check. Trendy cocktails and Moroccan wines? Check. Pink couscous? Check. To be honest, the verdict is out on whether Dardar is more style over substance, but at the very least it's a fun place for an alcoholic drink (which is surprisingly rare for the Medina in Marrakesh)
A longtime staple (think since 1987), Al Fassia has had a woman staffed kitchen cooking up delicious Moroccan delicacies. The pastilla is considered a classic. The tajines and plates are a bit of a change from the standard Berber spice palate elsewhere; chicken and pumpkin is not a particularly common place in Marrakesh
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Non-Moroccan Cuisine
One of the most important takeaways from my trip to Morocco was that it is very easy to get tired of tajines. For my trip, after three days in Marrakesh and three days out towards Ouarzazate and M'hamid, we hoped not to see another Berber tajine for another year. My advice is, if your trip to Morocco is longer than a few days, to add some non-Moroccan food into your Marrakesh experience so you don't tire yourself. These options are a good choices!
Hummus, felafel, and other Lebanese dishes are a palate relief if you've had too many tajines. Naranj has been in the Medina for years and offers great food. The space is cozy and a great place for both lunch and dinner
So fly to Marrakesh to experience great culture and go to... an Australian restaurant? As crazy as that sounds, the answer is yes. +61 is regularly considered one of the best restaurants in all of Morocco and even makes the top MENA (Middle East North Africa) restaurant lists. Recent hits on the rotating menu have included a roast sirloin sandwich with eggplant relish, roasted onions, and chile, and a roasted cauliflower salad with almonds, minty chickpeas, and pomegranates. The restaurant employs the freshest of local produce available in all seasons
A classic Italian restaurant in an old villa, La Trattoria is a favorite for international cuisine in Marrakesh. About to celebrate 50 years, La Trattoria serves up delicious Italian cuisine in a candlelit space around a stunning pool. La Trattoria doesn't feel very Moroccan in interior, but is still one of the best ambiances in the city
A trendy little spot in the Medina, Le Trou au Mur is chic, laid-back, and intimate. Now it is recognized by the world’s press as a must go to restaurant. The restaurant offers a selection of traditional Moroccan dishes and international comfort food. The highlights tend to be the international food, but this is a great place to take a break from the Moroccan cuisine
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Recommended Riads and Hotels
As you probably have read, the best places to stay in Marrakesh (and all of Morocco) are Riads. Riads are specifically a traditionally home, centered around a courtyard, usually serving as a garden. Given culture dictated the outsides of homes should be simple, this is where the embellishment would begin. Around the courtyard there would be various rooms.
While "Riad" in Morocco usually refers to a locally owned bed and breakfast, the Riads in Marrakesh usually are proper Riads. Regardless, the riads on this list provide delicious breakfast and beautiful rooms.
In case luxury is on your list, I've included two famous hotels. While rooms here are quite expensive (think at least $600 a night) they are good locations with beautiful grounds. It may even be worth stopping by for a coffee (especially La Mamounia)
A tranquil escape in the Medina, I would recommend anyone to stay at Le Rehani. The staff were wonderfully welcoming. The breakfasts were delicious. The rooms are stylish, clean, and comfortable. The courtyard and rooftop are peaceful beyond everything. The hammam on site is a great locale for relaxation. Everything about this hotel makes it one of the best hotels I've ever stayed in. On top of that, rooms are available for as little as $125 a night, which makes this hotel such a good value. Like with any Riad, there are not many rooms so you may need to book well in advance.
An Instagram favorite, Riad Elegancia has stylish and modern rooms that fit the classic Riad fashion. With only 11 rooms, be sure to book this well in advance if you wish to stay here as the hotel can sell out quite easily
The older sister hotel to Riad Elegancia, La Maison Arabe has been a luxurious stable in the Medina since 1946. With luxurious rooms and beautiful decor, this is likely the most luxurious "Riad" style hotel you will find in the Medina.
The rooftop of this luxury hotels has the most dramatic views of the historic Koutoubia Mosque in all the city. Larger than a Riad but with grounds to compete with any property in the city, Les Jardins de Koutoubia is a fantastic stay for luxury and beauty. While less expensive than La Mamounia, this hotel will still run you a pretty penny (much more than the riads on this list).
This historic hotel has had guests as varied as Winston Churchill and Kim Kardashian. Probably the nicest and most expensive hotel in the city, if you have the cash to spend it is worth experiencing the Mamounia.
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