My Foodie Guide to Dubai

My Foodie Guide to Dubai

Lucy Mulcahy
It's no secret, I am a huge fan of the food scene in Dubai. As a multi-cultural, cosmopolitain city, the variety of restaurants and cuisines is unmatched. And it’s not just Michelin stars and bottomless champagne brunches. There are so many surprises in this city, including delicious low-key eateries, that cater to the many different nationalities that make up the UAE's population. Whether you want to eat local Emirati food, try Yemeni or Ethiopian, or enjoy Indian food bursting with flavour, there is so much to discover. Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Korean cuisines in particular have been trendy in Dubai for years, ranging from the authentic to modern fusion. The restaurant scene is so competitive, it has started to attract creatives and celebrity chefs from all over the world who want to make their mark in the city. This being said, Dubai is also a minefield where you can find yourself in a soulless restaurant, that looks the part, but serves average food for haughty prices. To help you navigate the city, I’ve made a list of places that I would honestly recommend, sharing some of my personal favourites, my secret spots as well as classic Dubai institutions that HAVE to be mentioned. Below you'll find both cheap-eats and luxury catering and many options that are veggie and vegan friendly.
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My Dubai Essentials 

First, let’s start with some of my personal favourites. Honestly, I try to dine at most of these eateries, every-time I visit Dubai, often multiple times. This list showcases different cuisines with different price ranges, but the common denominator is delicious, comforting food, in laid-back venues. Biriyani, Koshari, Mansaf, Xiao Long Baos ... all of these restaurants have specific dishes I can’t quite get back home in Europe. I can honestly say I'm getting hungry and homesick just thinking about them.

Din Tai Fung
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Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese restaurant, with locations all over Dubai - not to mention the rest of the globe! The original restaurant is family-run and opened in Taipei in 1972. Since then, It has become a famous name across Asia, with some branches even being awarded a Michelin star. It's fair to say this is my ultimate Dubai restaurant recommendation. Every time I visit the UAE, I try to eat at Din Tai Fung at least twice. "Oh, we're only in Dubai for 24 hours? This is where we are eating." Despite my raving review, It doesn't have the facade or the price range of a gourmet eatery. The restaurants are big, noisey and often located in a bustling mall. Until now, you can't make reservations. It's first come, first serve and you will be given a buzzer to take around the mall until it vibrates when they have space. But it is worth the wait; the dumplings and wontons are unmatched and I have never managed to find anything like them in Europe. Not even, I'm afraid, in their own Din Thai Fung London branches that opened a couple of years ago. I have tried almost everything on their extensive menu, and I have so far not been disappointed. Aside from the wontons and Xiao Long Baos (make sure to pierce these or you might burn yourselves with hot soup), among my favourites are the spicy cucumber, the sautéed spinach, the sweet and sour chicken and the Mongolian beef - careful, its very spicy!
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Gazebo - City Centre Deira
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An Indian restaurant with an extensive menu inspired by foods from the Mughal era, with delectable veggie and vegan options. My go-to dish is their Dum Pukht Biriyani, and I really can't express how much I miss this dish when I'm back in Europe. Ironically, don't think I've actually ever eaten inside a Gazebo's restaurant. They have been my staple take-out for years. The few times I have ventured in, to pick up my order, it has been extremely busy, often bustling with a lot of South Asian families - which I take as a very good sign!
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Bombay Bungalow
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Admittedly, a little on the pricey side, Bombay Bungalow is my favourite restaurant in JBR. The staff, the atmosphere and the decor is definitely a vibe - Darjeeling Ltd comes to mind. The cuisine is a modern take on traditional Indian dishes. The keyword here is : Flavour. Lots of it. I perhaps wouldn't go out of my way to cross town to eat here, given the amount of Indian restaurants available in Dubai. But, if I'm in JBR, this is where you'll find me.
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ALAMOOR EXPRESS RESTAURANT
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I was bought here by some friends of mine a few years ago and I have been craving their koshari ever since... This is hands-down one of the best Egyptian places in town. It is a busy and bustling (read: loud) restaurant, but for good reason. The food is bursting with flavour, and it is exceptionally good value for money. If you haven't tried Egyptian before, don't hesitate to ask for some recommendations. My personal favourite is koshari, a street food made with lentils, chickpeas, rice and a spicy tomato sauce. This place is great for vegans and vegetarians too. In all honesty, the staff can be a bit hit and miss, but that is almost part of the charm. I definitely get the feeling you might get a bit friendlier service if you can speak a bit of Arabic. I choose to take this as a testament to its authenticity.
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The Kana Cafe
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Kana Cafe is run by friends of friends - so I know firsthand how much they care about the quality of the food! The cuisine is Levantine (Arabic food from the North West of the peninsula) but the menu is very varied selling everything from shrimp tacos to veggie burgers. As an Arabic cafe there are of course amazing fruit juice and shisha options, if you should be inclined. The dish I discovered recently, that has already become a new favourite is Mansaf. Jordan's national dish made with Lamb and fermented yogurt. Definitely can't find these flavours back in Europe. The atmosphere is very laid back, cosy and friendly. It is a lounge-style restaurant off the tourist circuit. So I would recommend it if you want to experience where the locals come to hang out on the weekend.
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Mama'esh Al Bada'a ممائيش البدع
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If you want delicious flatbread, Palestinian style, this is the place. The dish is a favourite in the Gulf and there are hundreds of Levantine bakeries dotted across Dubai. But I'm here to tell you that Mama'esh stands out with a selection of the most moist fatayer breads, oven-baked halloumi, authentic mezze and some of the best breakfasts in town - all without breaking the bank! The quality comes from the selection of ingredients and they use only organic flour. Having opened 10 years ago, they became so popular that they already have ten different branches across the UAE. Levantine cuisine is always a great option for veggies and vegans. For the best Manakish, look no further than Mama'esh!
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MAZMi Coffee & More
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Tucked in a little corner of the souks in Dubai, Mazmi coffee is a perfect break in the middle of an exploration of old town. They are open rain or extreme shine, the lovely staff and resident cats are always welcoming. It's a peaceful spot in the chaos, with a view of the creek where you can see the people crossing on the abras and the traditional dhows fulled to the brim with spices and boxes on their way to challenge the Persian Gulf. I think it is the location that really makes this place special. You can have a coffee or a quick bite for a mid-range price. The cuisine is a mix of Arabic and Mediterranean with veggie and vegan options. I recommend the shawarma which is honestly one of the best in the area. It's pretty filling so sharing could be a good option.
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Time Out Market Dubai
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If you're already a traveller, you know that Time Out Markets can be a bit hit-or-miss. But I'm here to tell you that Dubai Market is well worth the detour. The idea of the TOM is: the best of the town, under one roof. And though, I wouldn't go that far, this place certainly showcases the amazing variety of cuisines that Dubai has to offer, in a very fun setting, in Business Bay. I love to check out what is new and trending and I'm always open to trying something different each time I visit. It's also a great place to go if you don't know what you want to eat or if your in a group with different tastes or dietary restrictions.
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For an Elevated Experience 

The following restaurants are a little more refined; the type of place where I would personally dress up, to enjoy a special evening with friends. These are places where a lot of effort has gone into the venues and the overall concept, beyond just the delectable food. Perfect for date nights, anniversaries, work dinners or girls night out, these places offer a gourmet experience in unique locations without totally breaking the bank either.

3 Fils
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3Fils is a Japanese and Middle-Eastern fusion restaurant located in the Jumeirah fishing port. The kitchen team is led by "umami warrior" Shen Shiroma from Okinawa. Opened in 2016, it is honestly so beloved by now, it has been voted the fifth-best restaurant in the MENA region. "Unique" is a word that gets thrown around a lot, but there really is no other way to describe the flavours here. The team is just so innovative! Definitely not overpriced, but you're looking at small portions, to favour quality over quantity.
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Miss Tess
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Focused on Chinese, Japanese, and Thai dining, Miss Tess offers an elevated gastronomic experience inspired by pan-asian cooking techniques. The business was launched a few years ago by the real Miss Tess, a savvy asian entrepreneur who wanted to create a restaurant that showcases the variety of Eastern cuisine. I came here on my last visit to Dubai, and I was blown away by the flavours and the generous portions. Part of the delight of the experience is that your meal is accompanied by a show. Veggie and Vegan friendly.
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Siraj Restaurant مطعم سراج
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Elevated Levantine cusine with traditional Emirati influences. Gorgeous modern interior or a stunning view of the Burj Khalifa outside. I like to bring people here on their first night in Dubai. Options for different dietary requirements
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Bā - Boldly Asian
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Another Asian-fusion restaurant that does not disappoint. You feel like you are walking on the red carpet as you strut into the glamorous low-light restaurant BA, in the Fairmont Hotel on the Palm. The service is impeccable, the atmosphere is fabulous and the food is worth the price. Stylish dish presentations match the quality of the produce. Signature dishes are fresh sushi and sashimi served on a bed of ice.
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Kinoya
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Dubai’s hyped, authentic Japanese restaurant is a hit with local foodies and great value for money. It’s a modern trendy venue in the Greens with an up-market, minimalist decor. It's a home grown business started by a lady called Mishra who is surprisingly not from Japan but from India and grew up in Dubai! I haven’t been in quite a while, but it left a strong impression on me - which is why it made it to the recommendation list. Since the last time that I ate here, it has been voted the best ramen in town!
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Nola Eatery & Social House
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A New Orleans joint in the middle of dusty Dubai. I absolutely love the smokey ambiance and the Louisiana inspired food here. Come to enjoy some comforting Southern US dishes, whilst catching some of the best Jazz gigs in town. At the base of the Armada BlueBay Hotel, Nola is always finding its way to top ten lists and for good reason. Ground level and low lights, the space is chic and sexy, a contrast to some of the over-the-top glitzy venues this side of the city. It's a great place to come for dinner or just for cocktails.
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ORFALI BROS BISTRO RESTAURANT
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I actually haven't been here myself. However, every restaurant critic that I follow and respect has said that this is one of the most amazing places to eat in Dubai. It was recently featured on "Somebody feed Phil". Created by three brothers from Syria, "often featuring hidden elements and surprising combinations, the menu is an account of the art, travel, cultures and personal experiences that have impacted the brothers’ lives. Served with a side of whimsy or nostalgia, every dish has a story." This will my first stop next time I am back in Dubai!
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Old School Dubai

A lot of people ask me recommendations for authentic Emirati cuisine. It is important to remember that Dubai is a port that has been a vital trade hub for Khaleejis, Indians, Persians and West Arabian Arabs for hundreds of years. Therefore, there are very few local dishes that are specific only to the UAE or Emirati culture. Like most of the Middle East, the borders of this country are newly created. Until recently culinary heritage was dictated by profession and geography more than a national tradition. Bedouins and nomads had a diet that was very meat-centric, traders and divers who stayed in the port consumed fish dishes and those that dwelled in the mountains had more access to fruits and dates - regardless of ethnicity or culture.

A lot of the dishes in the region are heavily influenced by Iranian, Indian, Yemeni and African traditions and most are shared with other Gulf states such as Qatar, Kuwait and Oman.

With this in mind, I am going to recommend some of the best places in Dubai to get a sense of this diverse culinary history. Most of these restaurants are old staples, not designed for tourists, but for the working class of Dubai developed this port into a metropolis in under 50 years.

Ravi Restaurant Satwa
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Ravi's is one of the longest running restaurants in Dubai, opened in 1978. It has been a hit with locals for years - It certainly already was when I was there in the 90s - simply because it serves delicious Pakistani food at pocket-friendly prices. It was put on the map globally in the 2010s, when It was visited by Anthony Bourdain. Now, the restaurant even has a partnership with Adidas, with a limited edition branded shoe. Yet, appart from opening a second restaurant, Ravi's has stayed pretty much the same cafeteria-style joint for the last 50 years!
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Bu Qtair Restaurant
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Bu Qtair restaurant was opened in the 80s, as a fried fish shack on the beach. Now, still in Jumeriah port, the little unpretentious restaurant is going stronger than ever, and is regularly packed with expats and tourists alike, waiting to order the catch of the day! This is probably the closest you'll get to tasting what people were eating in Dubai a hundred years ago; fresh grilled fish, flavoured with spices from across the sea. Not suitable for vegetarians.
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Al Ustad Special Kebab
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I think everybody in Dubai knows this flamboyant Iranian restaurant. Close to the creek and the heritage town, It is supposed to be the oldest restaurant in the city. The family run joint is small, loud with the most original colourful decor, consisting of hundreds of photographs and framed articles. In terms of the menu itself, you're looking at perfectly cooked meat skewers, generous portions and surprisingly affordable prices. It really is a meat-lovers paradise, so whilst there are veggie options, it might not be the most comfortable space for those with certain dietary requirements.
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Arabian Tea House Restaurant & Cafe - Al Fahidi
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This place is sentimental to me, as it used to be the Art Cafe that I would visit with my family as a child. The Arabian Tea house in Al Fahidi is a renovated traditional Emirati house, built in the Iranian style from 100 years ago. A place of tranquility, guests are seated on wooden turquoise chairs in a cool courtyard under an apple tree. The menu offers a pan-Arab selection of dishes, though focused mainly on food traditions from the Gulf, as it unites the regions different varieties of dishes. It is one of my favourite places to get arabic breakfast in the city.
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Walid Mohammad Bakhit Bakery
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It's unclear how long this little bakery has been open, but I know it is one of only five places left that make traditional ragag bread. This is a type of thin flat bread with egg, typical of the Gulf communities. They make the best ragag sandwich in town, with cheese, hot sauce and crisps. Trust me when I say: you have not had the full Gulf experience if you don't try this street food sandwich that people have been snacking on in the region for over 50 years!
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Al Fanar Restaurant & Cafe - DFC
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I wasn't convinced by this restaurant at first, as I thought the decor - supposedly reminiscent of the "old Dubai" - looked tacky, and the prices were quite high. However, a great example of when not to judge a book by it's cover. Al Fanar is actually a family run business, that has become so popular it is now an international franchise. They are honestly committed to preserving the culinary traditions of the Emirates. It's a new restaurant compared to the others in this section, but the chefs use age-old recipes and local ingredients to create dishes that tell a story of heritage and flavour.
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A Moment of Luxury

 A lot of people come to Dubai because of luxurious advertising campaigns. I understand, you haven't travelled all this way to eat in a well-known, greasy spoon even if it absolutely delicious. For many, Dubai represents the peak of glamour and wealth, with this in mind, I have a couple of suggestions that are just what you are looking for: 

Stay by Yannick Alleno
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A spectacular establishment, in the most luxurious hotel in Dubai. STAY by the three times Michelin chef Yannick Alléno, is sublimed French cuisine at its finest. The restaurant takes a ‘less is more’ approach to highlight some outstanding ingredients, that are probably flown in, the morning before, from France. It may be the only restaurant in Dubai to have 2 Michelin stars. Of course, the price tag matches the luxury of the experience, a 500AED deposit is required to book. It is the kind of up-market restaurant where is is better not to look at the prices on the menu at all. This being said, if you want to have the most crafted, beautifully conceived and elegant dining experience in town, there is no doubt that STAY is where you need to be.
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Avatara Restaurant
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An all vegetarian fine-dinning experience, with a degustation menu inspired by the body's chakras. This experience is about philosophy as much as it is about food. The cuisine uses fresh produce and dairy products from the local farms. The restaurant is driven by the culinary maestro, Chef Rahul Rana.
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Zheng He's
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Let's start with location. Zheng He is in one of the most luxurious resorts in the city: The Mina a Salam. Over-looking the water, dark wood and red lighting, it's hard to imagine a more romantic setting. Zheng he serves elevated classic chinese cuisine, with the most exquisite dim sum, and mouth-watering Pekin duck. The staff are excellent, immaculate recommendations for the à la carte menu, though I think the taster menu is the way to go.
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Trèsind Dubai
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Trèsind is THE Indian fine-dinning experience in Dubai, paving the path towards fostering the legacy of Indian food and a flag bearer of contemporary Indian food, showcasing the robustness of Indian cuisine. It's multi-award winning, Micheline star and definitely a must-do in the city. Staff are knowledgeable, well-versed and attentive, while the food is almost surreal. The dishes are loud and bold with every bite. Nothing is less than excellent.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Lucy Mulcahy
Hello! I'm Lucy. I work in the business side of the film industry and I am passionate about people, culture, history and above all: stories. Having visited 31 countries, I like to travel-write in my spare time, mostly in journals and scrapbooks. As I find myself often recommending spots, itineraries and "things-to-do", to friends and family, I have FINALLY decided to start typing my notes up and publish them online. So far I have lived in the UK, the UAE, France and Spain. I want to take you on a deep dive of theses countries, so that you can experience them to the fullest, avoid the tourist traps and enjoy where I like to call home. I like to sprinkle a little history and anthropology into my guides - putting my masters in Political Anthropology to good use! I am also a big "foodie" and wannabe restaurant critic, and I can't wait to share my recommendations. Let's give this travel blog thing a try.
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