A Short Stay in Buenos Aires
A bit of a preamble: I definitely don’t claim to be an expert of Buenos Aires, but I do consider myself to be an adept solo traveler. Below are places I was recommended, saw on my own accord, or figured out—it’s a mix of everything. More resources are below if you want to explore some great guides and inspiration!
Before you go
Cell service
If your phone is unlocked and compatible with eSIMs, you can easily download and have cell service ready on your phone for when you arrive.
I’ve had a lot of luck with AirAlo!
Use code “Catie8377” for $3 off your first eSIM purchase! You also earn credits for the SIMs and top up packages you buy.
If you’re a NordVPN user, you might also like their eSIM marketplace, Saily. I’d recommend concurrently having access to a VPN service while traveling, too!
Check your monthly GB usage normally, and base it off of that. I used google maps and uber religiosly throughout my time, and it did use quite a lot of data. I ended up buying 7GB as my base eSIM, and topped up 1GB in my final week.
Currency exchange
Exchanging currency in Buenos Aires is fairly straightforward, and although most businesses accept card (with minimal fees), there are definite benefits to carrying pesos, like cash discounts and special rates. I didn’t exchange currency until I arrived, and found no problem doing so.
Keep an eye out for western union signs at kiosks and supermarkets around the city. Avoid using ATMs, and the change or “casa de cambio” spots in the airport, city center, touristic areas, or major boulevards, as they don’t provide good exchange rates and often impose exhorbitant fees. You can check the going exchange rate of the “dolar blue”, through ambito financiero to ensure you have a good rate:
If you’re keen on making large purchases, like at artists’ markets or leather ateliers, keep some USD on you—large bills ($50, $100) are preferred, as physical US currency is kept and stored in limited space. Argentinian citizens are only allowed to buy US currency up to $200 a month, and pay a very heavy tax (around 75%) to do so—so, conducting a transaction in USD really works in their favor (if they want it, of course). USD or “dolár blue” is used for larger transactions such as real estate, rent, cars, etc., so it is good to have on hand. If you do want to use large bills, ensure that they’re clean and free of stamps, writing, or marks. There’s no need to bring small bills in USD with you to exchange, even to use as tips. Unless it’s a large bill, USD bills are essentially worthless.
Western Union Kiosks are available around the city, usually inside convenience or grocery stores. You can use the app to see exchange rates and send yourself money in ARS securely:
And if you prefer using a travel card or digital currency, try out wise (formerly transferwise). I ordered and use their physical card when I travel for extra safety, too. This was super convenient when paying for subte trips 🚇
Getting Around
🚗 Uber is illegal, but many people use it anyway. If you do choose to uber, remember to always pay in the app.
🚙 Cabify is a more legitimate app! Riders and drivers are also insured, so if anything happens, you’re more secure. Rates are similar to that of uber.
🚕 Taxis are cash only, but probably the most legitimate way to get around. As in any city or with any taxi service, be mindful of the meter and rates.
Private Bus
Want something less pricey? Try a bus transfer. I recommend Tienda Leon—it’s affordable at just under $10 for any route, quick at 50 minutes, and takes you right to the heart of the city if you choose to go to Obelisco. I paid before I even arrived, and got a ticket in my email.
There are multiple trips per day, and a variety of pick up and dropp off points. You should arrive 15 minutes early to your departure point, but after handing off your luggage and finding a seat, you’ll have a comfortable, worry-free ride to your destination.
Public Transit
Collectivos and subte
Your Sube card is $1500 ARS, bought at a point of sale within a station, and can be refilled in kiosks at stations around the city.
If you only plan on using the Subte (metro), you can rely on tap to pay in your phone’s mobile wallet or using the contactless function of your physical cards, and avoid getting a public transit card altogether.
The colectivo from Ezeiza airport to the city center is line 8. It costs less than a dollar to ride, but does take around 2 hours to get to city center.
What to do
Walking tour with Nico - Buenos Aires for Curious People [LINK]
If you’re like me and want to have some purpose or structure to your visit, take a spanish class.
Food & Drink
Choripan, alfajores, milanesas, fernet, cafe bombon, pizza, empanadas, bife… there’s so much to try. The Porteño culinary scene boasts a great selection, and you’re never at a loss for a new restaurant or cafe to try. A LOT of these are in Palermo (as its a fairly popular neighborhood) but you can find great restaurants wherever you go.
Gelato
The italian influence on Argentina is made ever so evident by the sheer amount of gelato shops throughout the city.
Mate
What would a visit to Argentina be without mate?
If you intend to buy a mate of your own, make sure it’s cured. On Saturdays, one of the artisans at the market in Plaza Francia has a booth with all of his handmade ones, all cured, that he will hand-carve your name into. He preferred not to take a picture of his things, but you’ll find him!
Specialty coffee
Argentina falls outside of the tropics, so doesn’t grow coffee of its own. However, its position in South America and closeness to producers like Brazil, Bolivia, and Colombia put it at an advantage when it comes to access to great farms and trade. As in any city, third wave coffee has found its home in niche cafes that are slowly growing more and more popular.
Or, head on a specialty coffee tour with Flor! [LINK]
I’ve also compiled a more complete list of the places I tried. You can check it out in this guide, here:
Or check out my instagram highlight!
Restaurants
(Admittedly most of these are vegetarian or plant-based, which is essentially antithetical to Buenos Aires, but let me beee)
Bars
Check out Flor’s cocktail tour, too:
And if you’re into sake, try out a tasting with a local rep and restauranteur, Nico.
Going out—meeting people, dancing, & nightlife
Nightlife in Bs.As. goes late—as dinner happens around 9pm, the earliest to start your bar or club venture should really be around 1am, ending in the early morning. But there are so many ways to experience nightlife in the city, and so many people to meet!
Language Exchanges: the solo traveler’s best friend
If you fancy a language exchange (or intercambio de idiomas) to practice your spanish, or just want to meet new people, MundoLingo is the place to go. Connect the group through a variety of social media platforms. They meet most days of the week, apart from Mondays and Saturdays.
Bla Bla is also active in Buenos Aires, but a little less so. You can join their group on whatsapp for more information.
Don’t forget that Buenos Aires is a city included in timeleft dinners! If you have no plans on a wednesday night, you can always plan to meet with a group of like-minded strangers at a restaurant chosen for you. And, after the dinner, you get to meet at a bar with all the other people who chose to do a timeleft too, not just those in your group! I highly recommend for solo travelers, to meet new people, locals, and other travelers.
Live music
La bomba del tiempo happens every monday from 7-9pm. It’s a group of percussionists that combine traditional instruments with a variety of electronic music from around the world.
Tango & Milonga
Shopping
Although I might not recommend shopping too much in Buenos Aires—clothes, for example, are incredibly expensive, and Books I found were also very pricey (these two things are some of my most common vices, so imagine my heartbreak)—if you want some souvenirs, like leather goods, crochet, art, or a mate to take home, here’s where I would go.
& while you’re there, check out a local artisan named Dario Rego, who specialises in Filletes, a style endemic to CABA. (He does commissions on stanley thermoses, if you happen to have one that you would like decorated).
On Saturdays and Sundays, you’ll find an artisan market in Palermo that lines most of the streets around Plaza Serrano. From handmade crafts and paintings, to clothes, souvenirs, tchotchkes, and more, there’s quite a lot to look at.
For a getaway inside a getaway
Buenos Aires is big, but you still may find yourself curious about what else is nearby.
If you have a weekend, try visiting iguazu. There are a variety of ways to get there, tour options and accomodations available, but it’s an absolute must-see! I missed out as I unfortunately didn’t plan for it, but many of my friends from the language academy were able to go.
Or, for a day trip
If you like the charm of river districts, you’ll probably like Tigre. There’s plenty to do, restaurants and shops, bars, kayak rentals, and more. You can get a tour on a traditional boat or a larger ferry through the river delta, as well! Some guides offer full-day, private tours with swimming or safari options on their personal boats, which would be a great option at a higher budget.
I personally took a trip with Sturges, and thought it was really nice. It was a very laid back tour of the three rivers, with narration in Spanish, English, and Portuguese.
If you’re in town for longer, why not take a weekend or multi-day trip to Montevideo? Ferry trips are affordable, and its only a short distance away from the capital.
Further reading
When I went to Buenos Aires, I was just checking to see how it was, with zero expectations. But, I ended up liking it more than I thought I would. Hopefully I’ll be back to visit all of these spots again and more.
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