Five days in beautiful Bologna
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Why visit Bologna?
Bologna is a city you'll want to return to again and again. Teeming with life, it's got endless spirit and an all-pervasive energy and atmosphere. Architecturally beautiful, its historic centre is a joy to explore, from its grand piazzas to the maze of tiny streets that make up the Quadrilatero. Its citizens are warm, friendly and welcoming and it's easy to see why its frequently cited as one of Italy's most livable cities.
A rich food scene lies at the heart of it all with countless fantastic bars and restaurants to choose from, and a bustling night life. Culture vultures will be spoiled for choice with the number of world-class museums and galleries, not to mention the free events which take place all over the city, particularly during the summer months. Cinema under the Stars and live music are just some of the delights on offer - more on that below.
Eating and Drinking
Emilia-Romagna is a region famed for its rich and indulgent cuisine, hence its nickname La Grassa, so it follows that its capital city is a food lover's dream. Specialties include Tagliatelle al Ragù and Tortellini in Brodo. You will be absolutely spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out but it's good to get a recommendation from someone in the know. In a nutshell, stay off the main tourist spots and don't be swayed by a glossy façade. In our experience, the old-fashioned, slightly ramshackle spots had the best food.
Where to stay
Option 1: A gorgeous haven of tranquility in the Centro Storico
Our huge city pad on Via Fondazza was an absolute haven of tranquility on a quiet residential street, yet we were just a short walk from one of the city's main piazzas, Santo Stefano. The location was absolutely perfect. Here’s everything you need to know to book.
Via Fondazza was home to the Bolognese painter Giorgio Morandi who lived and worked in the city until his death in 1964. He lived simply, never veering too far from his small studio, and often painted the views from his window. As we opened the shutters of our bedroom, it became clear why it was so appealing to him - despite its proximity to the Centro Storico, it feels like a world away, surrounded by trees and gardens, waking to the sound of birds singing every morning. We slept with the windows open every night and relished those early-morning sounds as the city quietly came to life.
Option 2: beautiful independent guesthouse
Named after the Jules Verne novel. Don't be put off by the graffiti-lined walls & slightly grungey feel to Via Mascarella: it's a really lively part of the city and you'll get much better value for money here than you will in the heart of the city centre
Live weather
Your five-day itinerary starts here...
Day 1:
Morning
Explore the Centro Storico and one of the most unique aspects of Bologna city - the portici
Bologna's Centro Storico is instantly alluring, its rich architectural history documented and preserved under a strict conservation policy implemented in the Seventies.
The Portici are a symbol of the city and one of its most unique aspects. Over forty kilometres of arcades cover its streets, meaning you can walk completely sheltered from the rain or searing sun.
One of the few remaining walled cities in Europe until the late 19th century, the vast city gates on the perimeter are a nod to its Medieval past - ten out of the original twelve are still standing including the iconic Porta Saragozza (above) dating to the 13th century but restored in the 18th.
Lunch
Osteria dell'Orsa, Via Mentana, 1f
Good honest Bolognese food: simple and cheap - a favourite with students
Afternoon
Take in some seriously impressive art at the Palazzo Albergati
With a history of exhibiting internationally renowned artists including Monet, Chagall, Warhol, Magritte and Dalí, this is somewhere to keep an eye on if you're planning a visit.
Aperitivo time
You can't go wrong in the vibrant Quadrilatero District: a maze of tiny streets bordered by Piazza Maggiore and Nettuno to the west, Via Rizzoli to the north, Via Castiglione to the east and Via Farini to the south.
During the day it functions as the old city market with stalls selling fruit and vegetables, meat, fish and pasta. By evening, the streets are transformed as bars open and spill out onto the street for aperitivo time.
Zerocinquantino, Via Pescherie Vecchie, 3e
Dinner
Osteria La Fontana, Via Fondazza, 83a
Friendly, local spot with cool pared-back décor offset by bright graphic artworks.
Osteria Broccaindosso, Via Broccaindosso, 7/a
An old-school trattoria serving hearty local cuisine. Their Tagliatelle al Ragù is legendary.
Day 2:
Morning
Le Due Torre (The Two Towers) are the iconic image of Bologna and a visit to the city is not complete without a climb to the top of the Torre degli Asinelli.
Tickets: €5 adult
Lunch
Trattoria Pizzeria delle Belle Arti, Via Belle Arti, 14
Come here for the best woodfired Neapolitan pizza in town. In the heart of the lively university district lies this little gem with a friendly neighbourhood vibe.
Moustache, Via Mascarella, 5a
Cool little café-bar
Afternoon
Grab a glimpse of a Bolognese secret
Aperitivo
Tamburini
Dinner
Parlor, Via Cartoleria, 12a
Something special
Cinema under the Stars - June to August only
Insider tip: arrive even earlier and park yourself at one of the prime outdoor tables at a bar on the piazza to enjoy waiter service throughout the film. Sotto le Stelle del Cinema 2022 programme below
Day 3:
Hike the world's longest portico to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca
See that tiny speck of a church on the hilltop in the photo below? Well that's your destination... If the Torre degli Asinelli didn't quite test your fitness levels to the max, this will definitely put you through your paces.
Though it may look a lot further away, the Sanctuary of San Luca is actually only 6.5kms from Piazza Maggiore or 4kms from Porta Saragozza. A place of religious worship for centuries, its hilltop location on the Colle della Guardia is surrounded by forest and connected to the city by the world's longest portico, winding its way uphill and boasting over 600 archways.
There are many points of interest along the route, including a series of votive plaques and frescoed chapels.
The striking Arco del Meloncello is an 18th-century Rococo pedestrian portico that arches and swoops dramatically across the main road. It represents the start of the final portico leading up to the Sanctuary of San Luca.
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Lunch
On the descent, make sure to stop off for the best Ragú in Bologna at the Trattoria Meloncello. Renowned for their Tagliatelle al Ragù, this was one of the best meals of our trip.
Via Saragozza, 240a
Afternoon
Aperitivo
Dive into the aperitivo scene on one of Bologna's coolest streets. Piazza Aldrovandi is one of the city's best-kept secrets, at least to tourists, and it comes noisily to life every evening from 6pm with food trucks and stalls serving a variety of cuisines and drinks. Tables and chairs spill out onto the pavement while overhead fairy lights add atmosphere when the sun starts to fade. This is not where your typical tourist hangs out so it's a nice introduction to a more local scene.
Ripasso, P.za Aldrovandi, 5c
Dinner
Sorbole Que Tapas, P.za Aldrovandi, 5c
Something special
A programme of free live music across the city - summer months only
How about an evening of live jazz under the stars? The peaceful surroundings of the Gardens of Porta Europa to the north-east of the city is one of the venues for a month-long series of live music events promoted by Cubo Live, in collaboration with Bologna Jazz Festival. Entrance is free but reservations online are necessary.
We were lucky enough to catch the Italian Eric Rava on trumpet and flugelhorn, and renowned American pianist Eric Hersch. The sound was crystal-clear, the performance something special. Audience members sat on chairs circled around the stage, or relaxed on the surrounding lawn area. Locals in the know arrived with blankets, cushions and picnic-baskets and made themselves at home on the grass. And don't worry - if you haven't come as prepared as the residents, you can grab yourself a take-way drink at La Porta bar and restaurant,
Here's the Cubo Live programme of events for 2023
And if jazz is your thing, make your visit coincide with the Bologna Jazz Festival...
Day 4:
Morning
Palazzo Archiginnasio and the remarkable Teatro Anatomico
Located within the magnificent Palazzo Archiginnasio, seat of the city university from 1563 to 1805, the theatre was designed for the teaching of anatomy to students: the room is laid out in an amphitheatre shape, while a lecturer's chair overlooks the demonstrator's table in the centre.
Palazzo Archiginnasio
Built in the mid 1500s, it became the new seat of the university, bringing all of the faculties together in a single location. Architecturally it's impressive, its portico with double-height arcade arranged around a central courtyard; its walls highly decorated with ornate coats of arms and classical statuary.
Lunch
Da Pietro, Via de' Falegnami
I recommend - Spinach and ricotta ravioli, served in a butter and sage sauce with broad beans and pancetta. Tortellini in Brodo, a meat tortellini in broth
Simple food but the flavours were outstanding. House red wine is seriously good and service is warm and welcoming. A perfect lunch.
Afternoon
MAMbo
Permanent collection showcasing modern and contemporary Italian art, as well as an ever-changing programme of temporary exhibits.
Don't miss the Morandi museum. Giorgio Morandi was a Bolognese painter who lived and worked in the city until his death in 1964.
His oeuvre consists of a vast body of exquisite still-lifes and landscapes in muted tones. These are not showy or dramatic works of art but gentle and contemplative. They are simply beautiful, especially some of the iconic 'Flower' paintings. Photography is permitted only upon completion of a waiver form at reception
Aperitivo
Dublo, Via Santo Stefano, 77
A friendly neighbourhood bar at the less touristy end of Santo Stefano, and one which quickly became our go-to spot for an aperitivo or a night-cap.
Something special
Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita
Spend your Saturday evenings as the locals do and hang out in the leafy surrounds of the Giardini Margherita, enjoying al-fresco pizza, burgers and beer
The gardens are located between two of the old Medieval city gates: Porta Castiglione and Porta Santo Stefano. For more info and updates, check out their cool interactive website below
Day 5:
Morning
Take a wander off the main tourist drag to take in the wonderful art collection at the Fondazione Lercaro - one of the city's best kept secrets
The permanent collection showcases a substantial body of work acquired by Cardinal Giacomo Lercaro, archbishop of Bologna from 1952 to 1968. Friend and patron of the artistic community, these works were part of his own personal collection, some purchased, others given to him as gifts.
Giacomo Manzù's sculptures are some of the highlights of the collection, and you can't help but be charmed by the Quatro Chierichetti by Francesco Messina (below) The expressions on their faces are remarkable.
The permanent collection also includes sculptural works by the fantastic Arturo Martini and Mimmo Paladino among many others. You'll also find paintings and prints by Giorgio Morandi and Giacomo Balla. It's a little undiscovered gem and entrance is free.
Afternoon
Santo Stefano
One the city's most popular attractions, an astonishing complex of four interconnecting churches (there were originally seven), all from varying periods of history and each with its own distinct architectural characteristics.
Don't miss the beautiful Pilate's Courtyard: an oasis of calm and tranquility at the heart of the complex.
Entrance is free.
Aperitivo
Camera con Vista - for classy cocktails with a view of Santo Stefano
Dinner
Agricola e Vitale, Via Santo Stefano, 13a
It's a little pricier to eat and drink on Piazza Santo Stefano, but it's worth it to enjoy the fabulous view. We loved Agricola e Vitale which has the best vantage point of the church and piazza, but also serves great food.
Gelato
Cremeria Santo Stefano, Via Santo Stefano, 70c
Read more
For more photographs and more detailed info on all of the recommendations above, check out my two full articles below - one from July 2022 and the other from our first (shorter) visit in 2018
Getting there:
Fly direct to Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport. Flights from Dublin are through Ryanair
At the airport, take a taxi or the Marconi Express to Bologna Centrale - the airport is approx 10-12kms from the city centre. All transport options are outlined below
Buon viaggio,
Karyn xx
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