Dubai | 7 Things you'll want to do
Immerse Yourself in the Art-scene
Though Dubai isn't known for it's art history, it has indeniably become a hub for modern art, photography and design. Every time I come to Dubai I am looking up what's on and what's new. Whether it be exhibitions, digital art spaces, interactive theatre, festivals, I'm always spoilt for choice. As a modern city, the venues are often just as impressive as the exhibitions themselves. Much like Paris during La Belle Epoque or Gatsby's New York, Dubai feels like a vibrant metropolis attracting contemporary artists from all over the world with something to say. Dubai has always been a bridge between East and West and I can't help but get excited to see art from young talent in the Arab world, Iran, South and East Asia that I couldn't find in Europe.
I would recommend doing some research beforehand (or using my thatch travel planning services) because the art shows and exhibitions rotate a lot and you'll always find something new and exciting to discover. There are of course epicentres in different parts of the city, where you can turn up, unprepared, and be guaranteed to stumble upon some creative activities and artsy treasures.
For example, In the Al Bastakiya area, by the creek, you will find fine art galleries exhibiting international painters as well as authentic antique stores. Jumeirah, is a great place to discover local artists. Unsurprisingly, this beach part of town has a boho vibe, where you can find crafts and unique interior design pieces. And of course, the Dubai Design District is the place to visit for the latest in fashion, design and architecture.
The best modern art and photography can be found at the Al Serkal Avenue in the Al Quoz area. This revamped industrial part of town is fantastic for exhibitions, top-notch cafes and vibrant events such as the Al Quoz festival. The Avenue is set over a zigzag of warehouses and comprises half a million square-feet of exhibition and performance space. It’s also the place to meet local artists and tap into Dubai’s alternative social scene.
For a spectacular show like you have never seen before, I recommend - La Perle
For a taste of Arab cinema, I recommend - Cinema Akil
Explore the Historic Creek
Some people call this part of Dubai the "old town", because it was one of the first areas to be urbanised, starting in the mid-19th century. Here you can find various historical markets such as the Gold Souk, Spice Souk, Bur Dubai, Al Bastakiya, Al Fahidi and the new Al Seef district. All of these little neighbourhoods are linked by dusty, maze-like alleys on both sides of the creek. Be prepared to be approached by vendors trying to sell you spices, jewellery, knock-off designer handbags and the latest trends in oriental tourism.
The origin of human presence in Dubai is intimately connected to the creek as it provided a safe harbour for the wooden boats that crossed the Gulf, and had rich fishing waters. The first recorded reference to Dubai dates back to 1587, when the Venetian pearl merchant Gaspero Balbi visited the area and wrote of Dubai’s creek (Khor Dubai) and pearling industry.
When walking under the covered markets on a hazy afternoon, it becomes clear that the Iranian and Indian cultural influence on Dubai goes back hundreds of years. The Al Bastakiya area for example - with it's highly unique wind towers - used to be the Persian quarters, built by traders from just across the sea two hundred years ago. Despite popular belief, Dubai has always been a traditional commercial pole of international significance.
Ideally, you'd spend at least a half day by the creek, making sure to visit both banks, and crossing the creek on an old traditional boat called an abra (make sure you have some change for this). If you are in more of a hurry, try and take some time to have a good people watch of the unique and vibrant community on the waterfront.
I recommend - Mazmi coffee
If you are going to spend a few hours in this area, and you are prepared to walk, one of the best options to explore the neighbourhood is with a food tour. By savouring the different cuisines and flavours you will realise how many cultures have influenced this part of the Gulf over the last hundred years. I'd recommend checking out Frying Pan Adventures food tour, they are by far the best in town!
I feel I have to warn that most of this historic area has been restored with concrete and plaster, and unfortunately this makes it almost indistinguishable from some of the artificial buildings that are replicating the traditional style. As I understand it, the cost of maintaining and building in the traditional mud-brick is extremely complicated and expensive. The heritage department made a bid to UNESCO in order to get support but it wasn't approved. They have respected the urban form, and kept wind-towers as symbolic elements of the cityscape, but have not used traditional building techniques and materials. Travellers from Europe who are used to strict authentic restorations might be a bit disappointed in this element.
Finally, If you have a car, you can visit the surrounding areas of Bur Dubai and Satwa as well, where you will find local shops and restaurants tailored mainly to the South Asian community. As the biggest population in the city, you can't have an "authentic" experience of Dubai without exploring these areas, and acknowledging the significance of Indians and Pakistanis in the history and rise of Dubai.
For an extra authentic experience - Ravi's
Take a Relaxing Stroll on Jumeriah Beach
Despite all the effort poured into their tourism and marketing campaigns, I have to be honest, Dubai is not a great beach destination. Especially if like me, you are into spotless wild beaches. Unfortunately, the privatisation of the shoreline and the never ending construction leaves the public beaches feeling cramped. They haven't managed to successfully landscape the coastline in the way that cities such as Barcelona have.
However, Jumeirah beach is not without it's charm. It is the absolute best place to catch the sunrise/sunset on the Persian Gulf. It is also one of the rare places you'll get to see locals, expats and tourists gathered in the same area, doing different activities side by side. As it is has been very specially arranged for pedestrians and cyclists, there are few places more walkable in Dubai than Jumeirah beach. The shoreline is split in two; Jumeirah "Kite" Beach by Umm Sequim is the busiest with lots of restaurants and amenities and Jumeirah 3 beach, a little further away from the Burj al Arab, is quieter.
Part of the charm of this busy coast is that it is lined with mosques every few hundred meters. For me there is something magical about hearing the different calls to prayer, sang live and out of sink, as the sun sinks into the horizon. If you've ever been to Marrakesh, you'll know what I mean. You can even visit the beautiful Jumeirah Mosque if you have time, one of the oldest mosques in the city.
Walking on the white sand you'll notice that picnicking is a very popular pass time in the Khaleeji and South Asian communities, especially on the weekends. You'll often see entire families of twenty people sitting on foldable chairs, drinking karak tea and unpacking heaps of food, getting ready for a long evening. If European beaches are associated with tanning and bikini-bodies, here the beach is very much about activities and family time. Perfect for a wholesome stroll!
I Recommend - stopping for a Karak @ Filli Cafe
Enjoy a Luxury Evening at the Madinat
The Madinat Jumeirah is Dubai luxury at it's finest. It is a complexe of hotel resorts and malls designed to combine historical Arab architecture with Dubai's modern flamboyant Identity.
It's a must-see destination in town, hosting some amazing restaurants and bars, a fabulous theatre and award winning spas. Spread across more than 40 acres, you can walk around what can only be described as a reimagined Arabian palace, or ride the abras through the water ways, inspired by the traditional boats on the creek.
There are three five-star hotels at the Madinat Jumeirah: the Jumeirah Al Qasr, Jumeirah Mina A’Salam and Jumeirah Al Naseem, plus summerhouses and villas dotted around the complex too. If you don't want to pay the exorbitant prices to stay here, you can still really enjoy the experience by dipping your toes in just for an evening. Even if you're convinced that "luxury" is not really your thing, I still think It's worth tasting Dubai's famous hospitality.
With the beautiful orientalist details and stunning water features, the complexe has an undeniable romantic atmosphere. You'll feel like you are in a 19th century painting by Eugene de la Croix, or John Fredrick Lewis. Sunset is one of my favourite times to visit. In the harsh glare of the midday sun, some of the exterior walls can have a bit of an artificial, "Disneyland" aesthetic. However, as dusk descends, casting a soft pink hue and gentle light, it's easier to imagine you are in an Arabian fairytale.
For my ideal itinerary, I would recommend starting with a bit of shopping in the souk where there are more than 70 shops to find fantastic souvenirs. Alternatively, why not book a massage at the famous Talisse Spa in Al Qasr, to get you ready for the rest of your luxurious evening. Then, get some drinks (alcohol optional) or shisha at one of the fabulous bars with a view of the Arabian Gulf, before going to dinner. If you want to splash out on lavish fine-dining, the most famous restaurant in the complexe is probably Zheng He's Chinese restaurant. Depending on what you feel like, with over 50 restaurants to choose from, you're bound to find something you will enjoy.
For drinks (and/or Shisha) I recommend - Shimmers
Adventure into the Mountains
Lucy, don't you mean get into the desert? Well, sure. If you've never been to a desert before, and you are planning on staying only in Dubai, why not do the classic desert Safari. Though, I would highly recommend trying to do this in Abu Dhabi instead. Unfortunately, the Dubai desert isn't as unspoilt as it used to be and what is left is actually quite busy. You'll see about six other camps within walking range from your "secluded" desert spot.
Furthermore, the prices have gone up considerably and the quality of the Safaris globally have gone down. 5 years ago, Groupon offered excursions that were a guaranteed fun afternoon, perfect for entertaining my guests. Recently, the cheapest trips are around 50 euros and I wouldn't recommend them. If you really want to do the safari, make sure that you go through an official company website and be prepared to spend a little more, to guarantee a pleasant experience.
Here is my alternative; you might be surprised to find out that one of the things I miss the most about my childhood in the UAE is adventuring in to the mountains. The arid peaks of the Gulf region have a unique aesthetic mixing hues of brown and grey as they tower over dusty valleys. Only a few hours drive from town is the Hajar mountain range that marks the border with Oman. This range offers peaks close to 2000 meters in altitude, and has one of the most well-preserved ophiolite in the world (this means rock that used to be part of the ocean's crust). The mountainous part of the UAE is a stunning place to have a gentle hike or challenging climb, with historical landmarks, farms and villages to see on the way. If you're an experienced climber, there are many resources online to organise your adventure yourself. If this is your first visit to the mountains there are a few tours that will tailor the experience to your personal needs.
I recommend - Dubai Hiking Group
Eat as Much Asian Cuisine as You Can!
This may be controversial but I think Dubai has one of the best food scenes thats I know. I have eaten my way around London and Paris, but I am never done exploring the food scene here. I always leave with a list of places to eat, next time I visit. I'm not just talking about the fancy restaurants with champagne brunches and Michelin stars in the tourist areas. I'm talking about the family restaurants, places that have been open for years, street food, popups and independent passion projects. Again, I would highly recommend checking out Frying Pan Adventures for a food tour. For more details of my love of Dubai's food scene you can check out my list below.
What stands out the most to me is the quality and the variety of asian food in Dubai. It just hits in a way that Europe and the US can't compete with. I can only guess this because of the ingredients and the target customers. Given the demographics, it makes sense that there is a greater presence of Asian cuisine compared to Arabic in this area. Dubai isn't just renowned for its South Asian cuisine; it also boasts some of the finest East Asian restaurants outside their home countries. Beyond the demographics, it’s well-known that East Asian is one of the city’s favourite cuisines, across all cultures, so the scene is fiercely competitive. Dubai boasts an eclectic selection from Thai to Japanese, Chinese to Korean, the options are as varied as the cultures they represent. Each Asian restaurant brings a unique culinary experience, from authentic to fusion with modern twists to create dishes that are nothing short of culinary masterpieces. My recommendation is to make the most of it whilst you can!
To start you off, I recommend - Din Tai Fung
Take in the Views at Unique Rooftop Venues
I'm the last person to enforce the myth that Dubai sprung from the sand in the 21st century, because I think this cliché detracts from the region's rich history. This being said, Dubai's rapid urbanisation is its claim to fame; and it has some of the most unique skylines in the world. Unlike many major cities, there have been no real planning guidelines so architects in Dubai have let their imagination run wild - for better or for worse! There is no doubt about it, the best way to appreciate the striking concrete jungle: Is from above. While rooftop venues are plentiful throughout Dubai, three primary neighborhoods stand out as ideal vantage points for admiring the breathtaking cityscapes:
Business Bay
For tourists, the main things to do in downtown are visit the malls (Dubai Mall, Souk Al Bahar) and marvel at the Burj Khalifa. You can choose to go up the tallest building in the world, or spend time on a rooftop admiring it's grandeur from up close. Of course If you have time, do both.
There is something quite special about settling down on a terrace for an hour or so, with a view of the Burj Khalifa in the background. For many, taking a beat in this futuristic neighbourhood is a real "Oh my gosh, I'm in Dubai" moment. There are so many different options with great views of the Burj; skybars, rooftop restaurants and even pool areas for all different price ranges. A few notable venues are: Cé LaVi, Monkeybar Dubai, Chingon and Level 43 Skybar.
I recommend - Treehouse Dubai
The Marina
I have mixed feelings about the Dubai Marina. This towering forest of skyscrapers is built on what used to be miles of beautiful unspoiled beach, interrupted only by a small harbour where I learnt to sail as a child. The marina area is probably the most flagrant example of Dubai's urbanisation boom. It is a pricey residential area for young expats and tourists, with new clubs and restaurants opening all the time, pulling in as many influencers as they can. As much as I miss the old beach, I'm forced to admit that it is an extremely fun area for a proper night out. The competition for customers means that venues are always creative, the views are impressive and there are deals galore. I suggest starting off an evening with a beautiful sunset cruise, before going to a rooftop happy hour in the neighbourhood and/or dinner by the beach area. Of course, you could go straight to one of the many nightclubs depending on what kind of evening you have in mind!
I recommend - Pier 7
The Palm Jumeirah
The world famous artificial island was developed by Nakheel, designed by American firm Helman Hurley Charvat Peacock and built by the Dutch company Van Oord. This is another area that I would usually try to avoid, mostly because of the nightmare traffic and the nonsensical road planning.
Yet once again, despite my personal dislike of the area itself, the unique position off the Dubai coastline makes for some of the most stunning views of the Emirate. The View is the tallest building on the island and on a clear day you can see from the airport to Jebel Ali. It is definitely worth doing at least once.
I recommend - The Aura Skypool
Maybe you're thinking: this looks fun, but I can tell this is going to be too expensive for me. The truth is, yes, drinking in Dubai is unsurprisingly expensive and partying in these areas is not cheap. On the other hand, Dubai has some of the most amazing happy hour deals and "ladies nights" in the world. Not only can you find free entry, there are often free drinks, (sometimes unlimited open bar for a few hours!), free food platers or free shisha to get the ladies to come out in the week.
Make sure to check out websites like TimeOut Dubai and Groupon before you go to get the best rooftop deals - you'll be surprised at how attractive the offers are!
Bonus Tip: Visit a different Emirate
The UAE is such a small country geographically, there is no excuse not to explore as much as possible. Each emirate is very different and has a lot to offer. From the big city center of Dubai, you are really only an hour’s drive from breathtaking mountains, beautiful relaxing beaches, historical monuments and even prehistoric settlements. Of course most people will do a day trip to Abu Dhabi, which I would definitely recommend, to see the museums and Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque. But there are five other emirates to visit too! Sharjah has great museums, a beautiful corniche and the Mleiha archeological site that is 8000 years old. It’s a very different typography to Dubai as well.
There are peaceful beaches and great spots for snorkelling and diving in Fujairah. Ras Al Khaimah is the emirate to explore for incredible hiking adventures. And why not go to the mangroves in Ajman, the waterparks in Umm Al Quwain? Did you know there was part of Oman inside the UAE? To be honest, the best way to visit the country is to do a roadtrip. But if you don’t have time, be sure to take a day or two to get out of Dubai and explore more of what this country has to offer!
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