Istanbul
An Introduction to Istanbul
A sprawling city that boasts a population of 15.6 million, larger than some European countries. But the neighbourhoods and spaces created within this city mean that it never feels overwhelming. Despite the bustling crowds and ‘busyness’ you might expect, Istanbul is a place where you can feel relaxed and awe-struck whilst soaking in the culture and feel of the place.
General Tips
Getting Around
Istanbul is walkable if you’re up for longer treks - stroll along the Bosphorus for stunning views. For public transport, an Istanbulkart is essential for trains and trams. Load it with lira or use a contactless bank card, though cards may not work everywhere.
Traffic
Drivers and mopeds can be chaotic - stay alert, especially at crossings. Don’t be alarmed by car horns, everyone’s letting you know that they’re there.
Money
Carry some cash for local vendors, though most restaurants and shops accept cards.
Scams
Be cautious of shoe-shiners dropping brushes or perfume sellers asking for ‘help’. Leave the brush on the floor despite your sensibilities.
Cats
Embrace Istanbul’s unofficial rulers - cats are everywhere and they’re adored by locals!
Top Areas to Explore
Sultanahmet: Istanbul’s Historic Heart
Sultanahmet is the cultural and historical epicentre of Istanbul, where the city’s rich Byzantine and Ottoman heritage comes alive. It’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in the iconic landmarks, bustling bazaars and authentic tastes of Turkish life.
Must-See Landmarks
The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque)
This architectural masterpiece is a highlight of Sultanahmet. Known for its stunning blue iznik tiles, cascading domes and six minarets, the mosque offers a serene retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. Take the time to walk through the courtyard and soak in the atmosphere outside of the mosque, take in the view and reverence the space affords. It really is nothing like you will experience, especially if you are lucky enough to listen to the call to prayer (the Adhan).
Entry is free, but remember to dress modestly because it is an active place of worship. For women, if you do not have a headscarf you may use one provided by the mosque for free. Arrive early to avoid the crowds. Do not miss this stop on your trip!
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque
A marvel of world architecture, Hagia Sophia stands as a testament to Istanbul’s dual Christian and Islamic heritage. Once a cathedral, later a mosque its magnificent dome, mosaics and towering minarets make it a must-visit. It stands opposite the blue mosque so it is easily reachable.
Entry costs around 26 euros per person, you must remember to dress modestly and consider visiting early to avoid crowds.
Basilica Cistern
Entry costs around 26 euros but it’s worth every penny for this atmospheric experience.
Topkapi Palace
Though a visit to the palace itself costs around 1700 lira and upwards, depending upon the access you want to the palace and its grounds it stands central to history. This was the royal residence of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years. The sultan, his children and concubines would all live in the lavish palace. You will need a couple of hours to explore all the palace has to offer but it offers many historical gems. Artefacts and treasures adorn every room, you won’t be without something to see. The gardens themselves are impressive and with varied ticket packages and prices you can select the one that suits both your interests and your budget.
The Grand Bazaar & Egyptian Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, boasting over 4000 shops, It’s a labyrinth of vibrant stalls offering everything from carpets and ceramics to jewellery and spices. It’s a fantastic experience and a must-see for anyone visiting Istanbul but be mindful that the prices here will be super high so expect to barter and start at 1/5th of the price the vendor suggests. If you want to explore every nook and cranny, set aside plenty of time, the scale of this place isn’t quite comprehendible until you’re in the rabbit warren.
Nearby, The Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar) is smaller but equally captivating. It’s THE place to stock up on Turkish delight, saffron and dried fruits. Remember to haggle here too as prices will be hiked in such a tourist-heavy area.
Aqueduct of Valens
Built in the late 4th century, this roman aqueduct merges seamlessly into modern life in Istanbul. This particular section spans over Atatürk Boulevard and is named in Turkish The Aqueduct of the Grey Falcon. Once supplying Constantinople (renamed Istanbul in 1930) with water this is a legacy of the Byzantine era. The surviving section is approximately 921m long and is a unique opportunity to seemingly walk between timelines.
For more in depth information take a look at this website:
Food in Sultanahmet
Street Food
No trip to Istanbul would be complete without a simit. These are frequently available from street vendors and are often seen in the square in front of Sophia Hagia. A sesame-coated bread, similar to a bagel; pair with cream cheese for a hearty snack enjoyed by tourists and locals alike. You’ll need cash to pay just a few lira for this great on the go snack.
Local Favourite
Michelin Star Meal
At the edge of the Egyptian Bazaar and close to the golden horn, this restaurant, complete with Michelin star comes highly recommended and with a gorgeous authentic Turkish experience. If you want something a little more refined, with great views, this is the spot for you.
Tea Houses
Turkish tea or çay (pronounced chai) is a staple. Many cafes in the area offer scenic views, perfect for a midday break. Add some baklava to your stop and you’ll be fuelled for the rest of your journey.
Tips for Exploring Sultanahmet
Arrive early and prebook tickets to major landmarks to avoid long queues.
Wear comfortable shoes, you’ll be covering a fair amount of ground and many streets are cobbled.
If you’re visiting mosques, bring a scarf or shawl to cover your head (for women) and ensure both men and women are dressed with shoulders and knees covered.
Galata: Where Old Meets West
Nestled around the historic Galata Tower, this neighbourhood offers picturesque streets, iconic eats and bustling shopping. Here you’ll be able to soak up a different feel to that of Sultanahmet and see more people fishing than you ever thought possible, along with some rather spoilt and happy cats.
The Golden Horn
A major urban waterway and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn is a natural harbour where Byzantine and Ottoman fleet and commercial ships were anchored. Its name comes from the reflection of the setting sun upon the water.
Thanks to a clean-up effort during the 1980s, after years of sewage and misuse of the area, it now offers a beautiful waterway, surrounded by parks and promenades and it seems, the perfect place to fish. You’ll note the golden boats anchored to the shore with restaurant set ups alongside. It’s quite a sight to see the ‘balik ekmek’ (classic fish sandwich) being cooked up on masse on these golden boats and handed across to the awaiting team on land. It’s a must try in Turkey and we’ve a recommendation below.
Galata Bridge
Whilst you can hop aboard a local ferry taxi to cross the Golden Horn, Galata Bridge provides the perfect gateway to the offerings on the other side of the river. First built in the 1800s and rebuilt several times since, the most recent being in 1993 the bridge provides stunning views across the estuary.
You’ll find the top of the bridge adorned with fishermen of all ages, some who seemingly spend all day collecting quite the catch. The fishing continues day and night and there are many cats who wait patiently for the kindness of the fishermen to give them their ‘deserved’ fish dinner. Beneath the bridge however, there are of course further restaurants offering the classic fish sandwich and a closer glimpse of the water and jellyfish below.
Galata Tower
The ‘Galata Kulesi’ was originally built as a watchtower at the highest point of the now demolished defensive walls of Galata. Sitting atop a rather steep hill you can see why this was chosen as a medieval defensive point. The tower also represents the rich past of Istanbul and stands as one of the oldest towers in the world and a UNESCO temporary world heritage site in 2013.
Built by the Genoese in the 1300s the tower was handed to the Ottoman Empire and an inscription at the entrance details the specific handover of the area. The tower has not stood complete all this time, raised in the 1400s, damaged in an earthquake and a separate fire, it has been added to over time and the last repairs were in 1967.
Now the tower and surrounding area is a busy tourist attraction. Made famous with images of chocolate-soaked San Sebastián cheesecake held in the foreground of the tower, it is a bustling area, filled with cafes and queues.
If going to the top of the tower and soaking in the incredible views across Istanbul then head this warning and prebook! Entrance to the tower will cost around 30 euros each and the queues for the tower and the ticket office are extensive.
If you want to remember your visit in the form of a great photo, then head down the streets surrounding the tower to get the iconic shot.
Food in Galata
Balik Ekmek
You’ve got to experience the classic fish sandwich famed in Istanbul and inescapable in this area. Take your pick of the golden boats and accompanying restaurants to enjoy this staple.
Whilst you’re there, street vendors offering syrup covered donuts and pickle juice are definitely not to be turned down. Both are classics in Istanbul and one for you to experience. You’ll be fuelled for your walk across the bridge to the tower and Galata itself! Remember to have cash on hand for these purchases, smaller vendors are likely not to accept card.
San Sebastián Chesecake
No trip to Galata Tower would be complete without a çay and a slice of San-Sebastian cheesecake drenched in melted chocolate. And the best one was from Sirin Firin. Truth be told there are lots of options here but the cheesecake and the tiled green tables with the tower as your backdrop sets the scene for that iconic Istanbul experience.
There are plenty of big chains offering a similar, but we found an inferior experience, walk a little further down the road to find the independent masters.
San Sebastián cheesecake of course originated in its namesake. It is a burnt basque cheesecake and not the sweetest. The melted chocolate does the heavy lifting for those with a sweet tooth but the cheesecake itself is light and fluffy and a must-try unlike any cheesecake you’re used to.
Cake and tea for two will set you back around 14 pounds.
Istiklal Street & Taksim Square (Beyoglu District)
Istiklal Street
Walking directly from Galata Tower, you will find the long and famed Istiklal Street. Famed for its classic tram and as a central shopping area and for its mix of old and new, you will find bars, bistros and brand-named shops. This busy pedestrianised area has lots to see and shop for.
The 19th century tram itself is often stopped still, long enough for an iconic photo and is still in full use as it traverses the lengths of the pedestrianised street named ‘Independence Avenue’
Church of St. Anthony of Padua
One unexpected find in Istanbul might be a Christian church. As you wander down Istiklal Caddesi you may find, slightly tucked away the largest Catholic Church in Istanbul. Also known as the Church of St. Antonio di Padova, the building boasts neo-gothic architecture. Whilst this remains an active place of worship, visitors are welcome to see inside the building and enjoy nativity scenes outside the front of the church during the Christmas period.
Taksim Square
Considered the heart of modern Istanbul, this expansive space boasts hotels, restaurants and shops. There is also a famed monument to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the founding of the republic of Turkey. At the entrance to the square you will find bustling food vendors shops and hotels, all of which are worth a look.
Food in Istiklal Street & Taksim Square
Wet Burger
The famed wet burger of Taksim Square is pretty much how it sounds. A hamburger, including the bun, soaked in a delicious tomato sauce, is a must-try. Though for those with larger appetites, be warned that they are somewhat smaller than you might expect.
The place to go for such a delicacy? Kizilkaylar - you’ll note the queues outside this establishment and the lively men ready to take your order, in what appears to be chaos but does indeed have some sense of order. Unexpectedly delicious, you have to eat this burger.
Local Eats
Not far from Taksim Square sits this local restaurant offering typical Turkish food and with a barbecue sat firmly in the centre of the ground floor. Known for its grilled meats and meze, it’s a great local recommendation away from the tourist hot spots.
Turkish Coffee
Just off the main street, this is he perfect place for a genuine cup of Turkish coffee. This simple cafe is tucked away and offers no frills quality experience, visited by lots of locals. You can every purchase your own beans to take home. Worth the visit for something more authentic.
Sweet Tooth
Across Istanbul you will see a number of these chains offering, baklava and sweet treats. Entering one of these stores is certainly a visual treat as you admire the rows of cake and baklava and are greeted with the scent of pure sugar in the air. If you want to indulge this is certainly the spot.
But this comes with a warning. These stores are purely for tourists. If you purchase a tin of baklava it will be costed by weight, and the people behind the counter are trained to fill it. So go in only with what you actually want and whilst most of the treats taste great, there is something to be said for buying your baklava from a local, unnamed store with genuine charm.
Balat
Balat has entered to the conversation largely thanks to some instagram hype surrounding the coloured houses. The houses and steps are themselves very nice, but a tourist trap for sure. If you’re looking for a particular spot, it’s probably tucked away in a cafe rather than the streets of Balat itself.
So is it worth it? The simple answer is Yes.
Balat was once the home of the Jewish quarter and features an architectural gem of the Fener Greek High school. Home to minorities over the years, Balat is now a centre for artists and independent artisans. You will find hand made trinkets and souvenirs, delicious cafes and intriguing collections of vintage items aplenty.
You can spend an afternoon exploring the different offerings of the markets and eateries and you really can’t go wrong. You won’t find any big brand names here and that’s part of its charm.
Cafes
There is an enormous selection of cafes and restaurants in Balat, you really can’t go wrong. In fact if you make a stop every few minutes it’d be the perfect way to spend your afternoon.
There is one cafe however that deserves a specific mention; Naftalin offers deliciousness in a unique surrounding and is a must visit whilst you’re here.
Asian Istanbul
Whilst most tourists visit the European side of Istanbul, you may relish the opportunity to cross continents with such ease. In fact turkey is the only cross-continental country so why not?
River Cruise
A river cruise will serve as a nice change of pace from pounding the streets of Istanbul. There are many companies and options to choose from that usually take around half a day. Most include food and make stops at different ports but each will have their own itinerary. Whilst it might be a bit of a spend it will certainly be a different experience.
Rather than spending a substantial amount on a specific cruise, if your wallet is slightly empty after all the baklava buying, you can use the public ferries at a fraction of the cost to sail across the Bosphorus. Make sure to check the timetables and create your own cruise at the fraction of the cost.
For more details and options take a look at this website:
Kadikoy
Home to what is said to be Istanbul’s best produce market, Kadikoy is a vibrant area offers a more local experience, somewhat cheaper prices and lots of opportunities for shopping as well as bars, cafes and restaurants. The Kadikoy district and Moda neighbourhood have soared in popularity over recent years, from opera houses to streets lined with antique stores and original cinemas for a unique experience.
Check out some mor recommendations from Time Out here:
Maiden’s Tower
Part of the long history of Istanbul and the Bosphorus, the Maiden’s Tower lies on a small islet and once held one side of the enormous chain that prevented ships from entering the strategic and powerful waterway. Having taken many forms over the centuries, those intrigued by the history of the empires that once reigned will be intrigued to visit and learn more.
Seconds Stores
It’d be hard to visit Istanbul without seeing the many copies of popular brand name products. Whilst some of these may be the very reason for your visit, it’s important to note that many of the genuine items are made here in Turkey. As such, some of the ‘second’ or imperfect items are sold in stores like the ones below. So if you’re hunting for a bargain, take a look…
Suggested 3 Day Itinerary
Day 1 - Sultanahmet
Soak in the culture and ancient wonders of Istanbul and visit the blue mosque and Basilica. Stop for a simit and a local kebab. Spend time in the Grand Bazaar, exploring the rabbit warren of stores and perfecting your haggling.
Day 2 - Galata & Taksim Square
Walk across the bridge to see Galata tower. Stop for cake and set off down Itsiklal street to Taksim square. Near the river, try a balik ekmek.
Day 3 - Asian side & Bosphorus Cruise
Take a ferry across the river or book a half day cruise. Explore the Asian side and soak in more of daily life in Istanbul.
Hotels
Across Istanbul there are a range of hotels, from luxury and spa unique stays, to those in the centre of the action.
I’ve researched a range of hotels at different price points with great reviews and locations for you to choose from below.
Campervan Park Ups
For anyone travelling by camper or caravan, here are 2 tried and tested spots. Yenikapi is by far the most convenient on the European side and offers great access to everything you need and want to see.
A note for all campers, do not cross the Bosphorus Bridge, you may be fined by the police as caravans (including campers) are not allowed. Instead take the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge.
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