Italy's undiscovered cities: RAVENNA

Italy's undiscovered cities: RAVENNA

Ravenna is a city on the East coast of Italy, a couple of hours south of Venice: it's known as the Capital of Mosaics, a form of art that developed while the city was capital of the Roman Empire and later on during the Byzantine era. The 8 UNESCO heritage sites should be enough to convince you to go visit, but in case they aren't here's 5 reasons why you should: 1. It's CHEAPER than bigger cities like Venice, Florence or Rome, but that doesn't mean it's not as beautiful 2. Staying in a smaller city doesn't mean you won't be able to visit anything else: in fact Ravenna is very WELL CONNECTED by the railway system to multiple major destinations 3. Are you a SEA or MOUNTAIN person? Don't worry, Ravenna has both: 20 minutes east are its beaches, famous for their beach volleyball tournaments, while in the opposite direction you will find the Apennines! 4. Like anywhere else in Italy FOOD isn't the issue: lasagna, cappelletti, "bolognese" sauce, etc. are originally of Emilia Romagna, the region where Ravenna is found 5. Is Italy not enough for you? Apart from being close to Bologna's AIRPORT, Ravenna has also FERRIES that will take you to the Balkans region in no time!
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One-day visit or longer stay?

Ravenna is a great one-day destination because it isn't a very big city and most of the monuments are found in the city center. Of course if you also want to go to the beach or visit nearby cities, I would suggest staying for longer than one day. Even if you plan on going to Bologna, Florence or Venice and you don't want to spend a lot of money on accomodation, staying in Ravenna will be cheaper and with trains you will be able to get pretty much anywhere. 

Ravenna
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Check out the city map!
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On the website of Trenitalia you can get an idea of the prices: regional trains take longer but are cheaper, high-speed trains ("frecciarossa") are a great option but if you don't book them in advance they can have pretty high prices. 

What you can't miss out on

Ravenna has 8 UNESCO Heritage Sites:

Basilica di San Vitale, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia, Battistero Neoniano, Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, Cappella Arcivescovile, Battistero degli Ariani, Mausoleo di Teodorico and Basilica di Sant'Apollinare in Classe.

I suggest you buy the 5-monuments ticket for 12,50 € - this will include the first five monuments of the 8 I listed. If you don't want to spend that much time on art, you can also buy a ticket only for Basilica di San Vitale, Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo and Cappella Arcivescovile, for a total of 10,50 €. Considering the price difference I advice on the first one, also because you can enter each monument once over a period of 7 days (you only have to book specific times for some of them).

These are the best places to admire the unique mosaics that the city is known for:

Mausoleo di Galla Placidia
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Despite being small the Mausoleum holds many hidden messages: I advice you to get a guided tour to get the best out of the visit. Once you enter and look up to the ceiling you will see the famous "Starry Night": there are over 500 golden stars made with mosaics, even though the legend says it's impossible to count them!
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Basilica of San Vitale
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This Basilica represents one of the few examples of an octagonal church: it used to have two entrances and depending on which one you chose, your perspective of the whole church would change. Admire the beautiful mosaics on the ceilings but don't forget to look down: also the floors mosaics hide important life lessons!
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Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo
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The Church is kind of isolated from the rest, only 700 mt from the train station and easily recognizable thanks to its bell-tower. Because of catholic tradition, most italian cities have a Saint to protect them: Apollinare is the one of Ravenna and its Basilica holds some of the oldest mosaics of the world.
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Basilica di Sant'Apollinare in Classe
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Classe was an important port during the Roman Age. It's super close to Ravenna and the Basilica is definitely worth the time: from the entrance the apse at the end of the church looks like an eye, where the cirlce that encloses the cross represents the pupil. The Romans invented special effects way before us!
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Ravenna also holds one of the few architectural testimonies of the Ostrogoths Kingdom: the Mausoleum of Theodoric. The Ostrogoths' religion was Arianism, which is the reason why there aren't only christian monuments in the city. The Baptistery is an example of this "mixture" of religions and it's also a great representation of the phenomenon of "subsidence", the sinking of buildings over time. 

Mausoleo di Teodorico
@giorgiaalessioverni
Going inside doesn't matter as much, since it's empty, but you should definitely come by the Park and admire its structure from the outside. All the stones are simply put on top of each other with no binders, as is the 300 tons dome... How do you think they were able to slide it on top of the structure so precisely and without failing?
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Battistero degli Ariani
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The Baptistery is found downtown, in a little hidden square of the city. As much as it looks simple and ordinary from the outside, you can't even imagine the beauties it holds on the inside!
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Dante is probably the most important poet of Italy's history and despite his strong connection to Florence, where he was born and where he was a well-known politician, he lived in Ravenna for a long time and his Tomb is found in the city center. September is the month dedicated to him, so if you come by around that period try to attend one of the many events the city holds!

Dante's Tomb
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The Tomb can be seen from the outside and even though it looks so simple, it hides quite the fun facts and stories. The actual remains of Dante are found in the little park behind the Tomb: because Florence thought they belonged to them, the two cities fought over these bones for years, to the point that it seemed like they had been lost during the twentieth century. Ask your guide about Dante, I'm sure they'll tell you all about him!
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Other monuments you should visit in Ravenna:

Battistero Neoniano (o degli Ortodossi)
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This baptistery will show you how hard it is to make mosaics. Try to spots the mistakes that were made in the ceiling decoration, when the mosaics were restored!
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Museo Arcivescovile di Ravenna
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This Museum is dedicated to the Bishops of the Catholic Church: it contains artwork such as paintings and marble sculptures, as well as historical documents related to the Church. It is found right next to Battistero Neoniano.
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Basilica di San Francesco
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Fun fact about Saint Francis Church: you can see fish inside! Subsidence is the phenomenon that brings buildings into the ground with the passing of time. Most of the monuments of the Roman Age have sinked quite a lot and because Ravenna is located at sea level, they have met water underneath the ground. In the crypt of this Church there is a whole pond where you can see red fish swimming!
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Here's an idea for your tour through Ravenna's city centre:

Start from Porta Adriana, the entrance to the city center!

Porta Adriana - starting point of Via Cavour, street with shops and restaurants
@giorgiaalessioverni
Porta Adriana is one of the city's gates, specifically the one where the famous Via Cavour starts. A couple of streets down to the left you will find the complex with San Vitale and the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia!
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Along this first part of Via Cavour you will be surrounded by shops of famous clothing brands... but also some hidden spots...

Caffè Corte Cavour
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Right in front of Palazzo Guccioli's tall marble entrance, go check out this hidden "food court" and have a spritz at "Caffè della Corte".
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At some point you will reach a triangular square, called Piazza Andrea Costa: here on the left there is the indoor market where you can shop for food or spend some time in the upstairs library. Head right onto Via IV Novembre!

La Piadina del Melarancio
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The street will start to fill with a multitude of options for eating. This place in particular will make you feel like a local and allow you to try piadina, the typical bread of the region!
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Whether or not you stopped for a piadina, continue your walk until you reach the main square of the city.

Piazza del Popolo
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Piazza del Popolo: the main square of the city where you can find the City Hall and many different bars. Watch out: don't walk in between the Two Pillars, it's considered bad luck!
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Take the small street out of the square, right behind the Two Pillars: Via Cairoli will soon change its name to Via Corrado Ricci, and lead you to Piazza San Francesco, with the homonymous Church mentioned earlier! On the way there you will walk in front of this very unique restaurant:

Ca' de Vèn
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The perfect place to taste some amazing wine and traditional food from the area! If you can book in advance to be sure you will find a table.
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Visit the Church and admire Dante's Tomb, then head down Via Dante Alighieri, before turning right onto Via Angelo Mariani. At the end of the street you will find a bigger road called Via di Roma: to the right you will see the tower of Basilica di Sant'Apolinnare Nuovo, go visit it or turn left and then right, heading towards the train station. You will see a small parking lot to the left, head down that street to the Park of Rocca Brancaleone.

Parco Rocca Brancaleone
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This Rocca was built by the city of Venice as a defense for Ravenna. The park was created at the end of the 70s: it hosts concerts, festivals and open-air cinemas, apart from being a great place for children!
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Walk around the Rocca and take the bridge over the railway. On your left you will find the entrance to the Mausoleum of Theodoric and its immense park!

End the day with a walk along the city's Darsena, the old port of Ravenna. The area is still developing, so there aren't many restaurants yet, but Darsenale is definitely the best choice in town if you want to taste some brewed beer and great food!

Darsenale - Bizantina Brewpub
@giorgiaalessioverni
This old factory was rebuilt into a brewery and restaurant: the food offer is various and of great quality! You can both eat in or take something to go and eat it while overlooking the Canal. During the summer Darsenale also hosts multiple concerts and events.
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SUGGESTIONS FOR PLACES TO EAT:

Osteria Passatelli
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Fancy restaurant right down town! It offers both original and traditional dishes.
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Antica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909
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Another great choice for traditional food, found right next to Porta Adriana, the entrance to the city center!
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Osteria Del Tempo Perso
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Taste some traditional dishes in this restaurant located near the San Vitale complex!
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Lowenhaus
@giorgiaalessioverni
If you are tired of traditional restaurants and just want a burger with fries, then this pub is the right choice: prepare for some loud music and a lot of beer.
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Pizzeria Boboli Official Pizza Napule'
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Pizza should be only tasted in Naples, but if that's not on your itinerary then try to find Napolitan pizza somewhere else!
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La Mucca Viola - Ravenna
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Great burgers with very unique fillings... and colors. "The purple cow" even offers a vegetarian option!
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PASTRIES & GELATO places:

Pasticceria Dante
@giorgiaalessioverni
One of the most famous pastry shops in Ravenna: it's right downtown next to Battistero Neoniano and it's a great choice to taste typical italian breakfast.
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Pasticceria caffetteria 3 Sorelle
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This famous pastry shop has multiple locations around the city: find the one closest to you and try its unforgettable pastries!
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Papilla Gelateria
@giorgiaalessioverni
This gelato shop is right next to Piazza del Popolo: it has become so famous that it developed into a chain! Great place to taste your first gelato in Italy.
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Voglia di Gelato
@giorgiaalessioverni
Amazing gelato shop but a bit outside of the city centre: if you like walking and you want to abandon the tourist-busy areas, it's a great option!
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Here's some one-day trips if you are staying in Ravenna for a while:

Teatro Socjale Piangipane
@giorgiaalessioverni
This theatre first opened in 1921: apart from its long history, it is very characteristic as it offers a traditional dinner during the shows! It often hosts jazz concerts, so you can go even if you don't speak the language - you just need a car.
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Palazzo San Giacomo
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This huge Palace dates back to the 17th century, when the noble family of Rasponi built it as a summer residence. Book a visit or check for planned events on their website.
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Area archeologica della Villa Romana di Russi
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Go check out this huge Roman Villa in the countryside of Ravenna! The ticket is only 3 €.
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Comacchio
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Finding a guided visit to this "Little Venice" isn't hard at all and will totally be worth your time! Get lost in Comacchio's alleys and taste the typical eel dishes.
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Abbazia di Pomposa
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For this particular gem a car or organized tour is necessary. The Abbey dates back to the 9th century, where it was an important landmark for the pilgrims walking to Rome.
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Bologna
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The city of Bologna is reachable by train in 1 hour or so. This immense city is filled with culture: from Piazza Maggiore to its University, the oldest one in the world, museums and so much more. Ever wondered where "Bolognese sauce" was from? Go taste some lasagna covered in the typical "ragù"!
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Brisighella
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This small town in the hills has more to offer than you imagine. Go get some fresh air while hiking this beautiful area: you can see the sea from the top of some mountains!
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Riserva naturale Salina di Cervia
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Cervia can be reached by train. This city has many attractions that fill it with tourists all-year round. The most famous are probably the salines, where salt is gathered and transformed into the "sweet salt of Cervia".
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Marina di Ravenna
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Marina is the seaside of Ravenna and it's a great place during the summer, as it fills with people, the bars on the beach stay open til late and the different beach-owners organize beach volleyball tournaments.
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Rimini
@giorgiaalessioverni
The city of Rimini is also just an hour away by train. It offers a wide range of Roman ruins and busy beaches super close to the city center. Despite being so close to Ravenna you can notice some cultural differences already!
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Ferrara
@giorgiaalessioverni
Ferrara can also be reached by train. It is famous in particular for its Renaissance heritage, when the family of Este chose it as its base: you can visit their Castle downtown!
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I think I've said it all! I hope this guide was helpful and you will enjoy your visit to Ravenna and its surroundings. If you need any other information don't hesitate to contact me on social media or by email! 

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Italian curious traveller - discovering new places is my favorite hobby! My name is Giorgia, I grew up in Italy and spent my whole childhood travelling around with my family. After high school I got the opportunity to go study in the US while being on a softball scholarship and of course I had to take it :) I spent two years there, until last summer I decided to follow my dreams and share my passion for travelling with others - I am now a licensed tour leader in Italy and I studied travel designing to prepare custom itineraries! I love both city sightseeing and hiking (with my dog), so I like trips that combine those two things. I believe Italy in particular has a lot of undiscovered natural beauties, which deserve attention as much as the big cities. If you like discovering a country through its cities, but you also want the chance to explore it from a different point of view, you are in the right place!
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