Aveiro - "Venice of Portugal" on your way to Lisbon or Porto.

Aveiro - "Venice of Portugal" on your way to Lisbon or Porto.

DD Cardinal
Travelers often ask, “Should I take a day trip from Porto and visit Aveiro”? And the answer is “YES!” It is like no other city in Portugal and on my list of top underrated cities on the peninsula. Aveiro is a city known for its canals, colorful boats, and Art Nouveau architecture. It is often referred to as the "Venice of Portugal" due to its network of canals and longboats or moliceiros. The city also has a strong tradition in ceramics, salt harvesting and tasty pastries as well as being located on the Atlantic coast, making it a popular destination for beachgoers. The beaches have a blue flag rating as well, which means the waters are rated as outstanding and pure. You might even like it enough to spend the night and give it another day of your trip.
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Getting here

Whether you're coming from Lisbon or Porto, the journey to Aveiro is straightforward and scenic. 

From Porto
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By Train: Departure Station: Trains depart from Porto’s Campanhã station. Train Options: Choose between the Alfa Pendular (AP), Intercidades (IC), or Urban trains. AP trains have outlets with every seat and wifi. IC trains have seats with outlets that are marked when booking online or through the app, and no wifi. Duration: The Alfa Pendular and Intercidades trains take about 1 hour, while Urban trains take approximately 1.5 hours. Frequency: Trains run frequently, making it easy to find a convenient time. Tickets: Purchase tickets online or at the station. Prices range from €5 to €20, depending on the train type and booking time. By Car: Route: Take the A1 highway southbound from Porto. Duration: The drive is approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour, covering about 75 kilometers. Tolls: Ensure you have a toll device in your car for a seamless journey. By Bus: Departure Station: Buses leave from Porto’s Campo 24 de Agosto bus station. Duration: The bus journey takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. Tickets: Purchase tickets online or at the station. Prices typically range from €5 to €15.
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From Lisbon
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By Train: Departure Station: Lisbon’s main train stations are Santa Apolónia and Oriente. Train Options: Opt for the Alfa Pendular (AP) or Intercidades (IC) trains for a direct and comfortable journey. Choose between the Alfa Pendular (AP) that have outlets with every seat and wifi or, Intercidades (IC) that have seats with outlets but no wifi , or Urban trains which is longer and cheaper. Duration: The journey takes approximately 2.5 hours. Frequency: Trains run frequently throughout the day. Tickets: Purchase tickets in advance online or at the station. Prices range from €20 to €35, depending on the class and time of booking. By Car: Route: Take the A1 highway northbound from Lisbon. Duration: The drive takes around 2.5 hours, covering about 255 kilometers. Tolls: Be prepared for tolls along the route. Ensure your rental car has a toll device for a smoother journey. By Bus: Departure Station: Buses leave from Lisbon’s Sete Rios or Oriente bus stations. Duration: The bus journey takes about 3 to 3.5 hours. Tickets: Purchase tickets online or at the station. Prices typically range from €15 to €25.
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Aveiro Train Station 

(You'll start and end here)

Aveiro Train Station
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The original train station, which a smaller version of the Sao Bento station has been recently renovated and is incredible. If you arrive by train you will walk out of the new train station and literally run right into the side of the old station. If you come by bus you will be on the other side of the tracks and need to walk through the new station to get to the main street - Avenida Dr Lourenço Peixinho. The outside of the station has hundreds of tiles that depict Portuguese life including professions, daily life, famous people of the region and landscapes. You can also take a look inside the building when open. It is part educational/info center and part souvenir shop.
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Once you've marveled at the craftsmanship of the old station turn around and directly across the street is the first of MANY fabrico proprio cafes that produces in house, desserts called doces conventuais or "sweets from the convent" with Aveiro's famous and protected Ovo Moles being something you need to try. There are two ways to taste this delicacy. You can walk into any café in Aveiro and order a coffee and "um ovo moles, por favor". Or you can attend a workshop class and watch the professionals make them as well as have your hand at creating your very own. 

Tricana d'Aveiro
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In the 15th century, nuns in the Aveiro region of Portugal began creating their own style of sweets called Ovo's Moles. Ovo moles, also known as "soft eggs," are a traditional sweet from the city of Aveiro. They are made from a paste of sugar and egg yolks, and are shaped into various forms, such as shell, egg or fish-shaped. These little orbs of goodness have been awarded the Protected Geographical indication status in 2008, which means the sweet is protected from copycats. There are only certain pastry shops that can produce and sell the delights. These cafes will have the "fabrico proprio" demarcation on their window, awnings or doors to let you know the special treats are made on site.
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 Walk to the left of the cafe (Av. Dr. Lourenço turning into Rua de Viana do Castelo) and head towards the canals (at the roundabout continue straight). Along the way you will see more cafes, shopping and restaurants as well as some great smaller accommodations if you decide to spend the night. It is approx. a 15 min walk straight down to the canals. 

You  will know you are in the right place because you start to see the moliceiros or canal boats for hire. 

The Canals

It’s time to get transported back to ancient times and sail in one of the moliceiros. First things first, it's NOT a gondola. These boats would historically have huge white sails transporting them to the seaweed beds and back into town. The seaweed or moliço was harvested and used as fertilizer in the surrounding fields. That seaweed is sadly, now, not plentiful or harvested and instead the focus is on preserving the tradition through guided rides.

Ondo Clossal will be the first company you see but walk around and get the lay of the land before deciding which to ride with. Go pass the round about and head over the bridge and find companies on both the left and right of the canal going towards the Atlantic Ocean. Below are just few of the companies during high season. 

Onda Colossal - Marítimo Turístico
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Secret Tip! - If you book with a hotel the ticket can be as low as 11 Euros. The ticket is usually 13 Euros in all companies.
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Memórias da Ria
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Most tours of the canal is 45mins in length with the guide giving you the history of the boats, canal and what the moliceiros were used for originally.
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Aveiro Moments
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By far the most friendly and entertaining crew with the highest Google ratings.
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Viva Ria
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For all of the companies, prices will vary widely between seasons as well as if you have a group large enough for it's own ride or if you join a group of travelers or have booked through a hotel.
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Once your journey is over it might be time for a snack or a full meal. I gotta covered. Below are my favorites and WHY I like them. 

Restaurants to Try

Restaurante Laguna
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On the way to the salt flats. Lunch for two will be about 45 Euros with wine but the octopus salad and view of all the moliceiros is worth it.
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Largo da Praça do Peixe
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This restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and traditional Portuguese dishes. Not much to look at but steps from the beach. And if you are looking for incredible grilled fish, a jug of wine and the ability to people watch for under 14 Euros then this is your place.
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Salpoente
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If you would like to be treated to a Michelin star recommendation, then Salpoente is a pleasure. Salpoente does not have a star, but it deserves one. Housed in an old salt storage facility and going strong since 1991, they have tasting menus that are focused on the regional specialties. They have both meat and vegetarian menus and are putting a spin on traditional Portuguese flavors. Even better, they also open for lunch so you can plan ahead and get a reservation and enjoy a meal in style.
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Un Poco Loco
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IMO the best Mexican restaurant outside of Lisbon and possibly the best in Portugal. If you're used to Tex Mex or Baja style Mexican then you will thank me.
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Musgo
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Located on a quiet side street, MUSGO is a popular place for veggie lovers.
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La Mozzarella Aveiro
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An Italian favorite with incredible pizzas, baked Penne and of course there is tiramisu. Great for families too.
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Salt Harvesting

From the canals, walk to the right of the canal (R. Dr. Barbosa de Magalhães, then follow the canal when you get to Largo do Rossio, by turning LEFT at the blue HOSTEL on R. de João Afonso de Aveiro) then turn right and go under the bridge and left over the road R. de João Afonso de Aveiro) until you come to our next stop - the City of Aveiro's salt flats. 

Portugal and Aveiro in particular produces incredible salt. It's such a  special option to be able to walk a short distance from the city center and see the pans and hear the birds and nature around. 

Ecomuseu Marinha da Troncalhada
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This is a self directed tour with lots of educational signs in English, Portuguese and French as well as free wifi.
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Salt pans, also known as salt flats are shallow pools of water used to extract salt from seawater. Portuguese salt granules are different though. It's rare to find the "flakes" that you see with Maldon. Instead it's more of a rolled crystal. You can walk over to the salt pans and walk through the pans and if lucky, see a marnoto raking the pans in the early morning. 

Most of the salt harvesting in Portugal is organic and still harvested in traditional methods without additives or artificial processing. The Aveiro lagoon is the inlet just off the Atlantic Ocean and is the perfect place for salt flats. It's also perfect for birders too. 

Salt workers known as “marnotos” carefully wade through ponds of ocean water each day—raking newly-formed salt crystals with a long, wooden tool called a “rodo.” If you want to learn even more, you can attend a tour that explains the entire process by a marnotos. You can attend the tour and see the step by step process as well as walk through the pans to get the real life view of what it takes to get salt to your table. Below are the best companies to get a hands on tour.

Salt Pan Tours

Insider TIP - If you are buying salt for your personal use, don't go to the tourist shops for your salt, instead take a walk to the nearest Pingo Doco or Continente and get it at a much lower cost. If you want the salt as a present then buy from the salt pans and help support the tradition directly. Most tours have a discount for purchases.

Marinha da Noeirinha
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Excellent example of salt harvesting and have combo tickets with other classes or sights in Aveiro
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Salinas Aveiro
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IMO, this is the best all around guide to learn about the process and history of the salt pans.
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The rest is up to you. 

I hope I've tempted you with what a lovely city Aveiro. With all that Aveiro has to offer you could stay one or two more days to get it all done. Below are some add ons and extras  that could be done, as well as accommodations if you decide you need to see more.

Birdwatching

The salt pans are also an important ecosystem and home to a variety of unique plant and animal species. This area of Portugal is a treat for birdwatching with over 20,000+ migratory birds taking a break or calling it their nesting home. The lagoon has the status of Important Bird Area (IBA) and Special Protection Area (SPA). It's one of the places the rare purple herons uses as a fly through and a wonderful spotting area. 

You will always find beautiful herons, ducks and other waterfowl in the area but if you are looking for spoonbills, flamingos or herons. The winter season is best for a variety of species. Below is the local chart of viewable birds and what the time of year they are in the region as well as eco friendly, quiet birding boat tours.

Sterna Aveiro Ria Tours & Birdwatching
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They provide 90-120 min tours on their Eco friendly boats in the brackish waters off Aveiro for under 40 Euros
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Ovo Moles Classes

All classes need to be arranged a head of time. In winter, the classes are held less frequently and in the high season they sell out quickly. Both organizations have the ability to run the class in Portuguese or English and other languages, if organized ahead.

The most authentic opportunity to see masters at work is with Oficina do Doce. Classes run 30–40-minutes and you are shown how to make them and then get a chance to make your own. The classes for the ovo moles are between 5-7 Euros. Of course, you have the possibility of eating some in class and purchasing some to go home. 

Oficina do Doce
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The classes are short and a fun time for you if traveling alone or in a group. And the low cost for classes is a great motivation to have your whole family join in.
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FÁBRICA DOS OVOS MOLES is another wonderful class to learn the techniques needed for creating the ovo moles. Workshops are 40-45 mins and are very hands on and consist of a history lesson and demonstration to better understand the sweet making history of Portugal. The classes are between 8-9 Euro.

Fábrica dos Ovos Moles
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Have you noticed that there are TWO distinct types of sweets in Portugal? One with a deep orange yolk color and one with a fluffy white meringue? That’s because in the past, the whites of the eggs were separated and used for their other unique properties. They were used in the starching of shirts and religious clothing for priests and nuns as well as a type of “glue” to attach gold leaf to objects and create a bond for alter decorations. Nowadays, there are alternatives so you will see the meringues in store windows that when eaten, are crispy and chewy at the same time.
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Art Nouveau Artcheture and Museum

Museu de Arte Nova
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In Portugal, Art Nouveau emerged during a period of cultural and artistic renewal, known as the Belle Époque, which lasted until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The style was embraced by a number of artists and designers and was also brought back by the Portuguese bourgeoisie that lived in Brazil and then traveled back home and decorated the facades of as well as home interiors with the expressive approach to art and design. Despite its popularity, Art Nouveau was short-lived and by the 1920s. Nevertheless, its influence can still be seen in the works of many contemporary Portuguese designers and artists, who continue to draw inspiration from the natural forms and decorative motifs of this beautiful and innovative style. You will see wonder examples throughout the city.
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I love ❤️Aveiro stairs 

The stairs began as a city improvement activity and local youth helped paint the stair just before the COVID lockdown hit Portugal.  

Escadaria "I Love Aveiro"
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Such an Instagrammy photo op that I couldn't help but put it in. Get there in early morning and the light will be great and no people, giving you time to take as many pics are you want.
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Monument of Soft Eggs

Ovos Moles de Aveiro
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Right across from the I ❤️ Aveiro stairs and in a lovely park area filled with space and cafes.
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Monumento ao Ovo Mole in a celebration of the beloved treat of the city. The impression cut out of the austere white blocks represent the ovo moles, allowing you to see the inside or "yolk" of the sculpture. There are three blocks with the three most common shapes - conch shell, barrel and half shell.

Ceramics factory 

The museum is a short distance from Aveiro and is a great place to learn more about the ceramics in Portugal and an incredible shopping opportunity. There is a store to shop at as well as an outlet store for seconds or imperfect pieces. In fact in the past this area was a small village or community of workers and families. Their history is depicted on the grounds of the factory. 

Vista Alegre
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Easily accessible by bus or Bolt. There is an audio tour that takes you through the years of clay turning and tile making. With over 30,000 pieces exhibited in the museum is a walk through history.
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Farmer's Market

Mercado Manuel Firmino
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Mercado Manuel Firmino is a wonderfully organized and enclosed market with vegetables and other delights. Fish in one section and fruit and vegetables in another. A great walk through for photos even if you can’t do your weekly shopping. If you're looking for a little snack you can get just one orange and a small bag of olives or nuts for munching on too.
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Hiking/Biking

Buga Bike Rental
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Buga Bikes can help you view the outer city limits for CHEAP with their city's bike sharing program. You will need an ID and a personal bike lock just in case they have run out. And don't worry, Aveiro is FLAT, not like Porto or Lisbon.
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Praia da Costa Nova
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Take a bus, rent a bike or hire a Bolt/Uber and see Costa Nova. There are three incredible routes to try - GR 57, 58,59 or the blue, golden or green route. The blue route (57) surrounds the large lagoon area. The Grande Rota da Ria de Aveiro is composed by two more routes, the golden route (GR58) and the green route (GR59), uniting the coast to the mountainous interior along with multiple smaller towns.
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Costa Nova

Praia da Costa Nova
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In past times the iconic palheiros houses were storage houses for the local fisherman's equipment. Brightly painted so fisherman could see them when returning from sea.
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Praia de Costa Nova has sandy beaches with pristine dunes and meters of area for relaxing for your beach day. Bigger waves than Barra.

Praia de Barra is under the shadow of Portugal's tallest lighthouse you will find calmer water and a lifeguard on duty. Great for the family.

Passadicos Costa Nova is a 6-kilometer raised boardwalk between the two large beach areas.

Accommodations

Aveiro has so many things to see and do it's realistic to spend at least one night so you can get it all in. Below are some favorites. All are within 20 mins walking of all major sites.

Tricana d'Aveiro
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So close that you can see it from the train station. And of course, breakfast will be incredible just downstairs in the famous cafe.
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Aveiro Rossio Hostel
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High ratings and reviews and has an outdoor terrace and a budget friendly option in Aveiro.
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Barcos Casa Aveiro
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A unique stay for sure. This company also can organize tours for any thing you want in the city. Starting at $125 Euros/night.
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I hope you enjoyed this tour of Aveiro.

I’ve have spent a lot of time in Aveiro and would like to help you experience the magic of the city. If you would like an itinerary tailored to you, with options such as me scheduling bakery classes or canal rides or even get you into a Michelin restaurant please reach out to me. I would love to guide you through a night or weekend. Reach out at hello@ddcardinal.com

Remember to leave a tip of you felt like this guide was valuable to you. 💸 (The tip button is at the top)

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
DD Cardinal
🌍✨ Bom Dia! I'm (another ) American that lives in Portugal. Over the last three years I have been pet sitting from the north to the south of Portugal and last year moved from Coimbra to the Lisbon area. For years I have been hiking the trails of Portugal including the Rota Vincenta or Fisherman's Trail, the Camino Portuguese as well as so many others. I fell in love with Portugal years ago and finally took the plunge and decided to live here full time. I have traveled to more than 30 countries and Portugal is where I've decided to live. Portugal is my home and my playground. But my journey doesn't stop here! With a heart full of curiosity and a backpack ready for anything so you will also find guides to cities and countries I've spent time traveling in. This will be the first summer in years that I won't be pet sitting in the London area. All of my guides are personally crafted and I've traveled to each city I write about. And in my past life I was an organizer of a food club that organized food tours, scavenger hunts and tastings so I know how to find the best food experiences out there. #foodietours My guides are personal tours of places that I LOVE to go. I'm into thrifting, hiking, art and art history, eating the best foods, and shopping for souvenirs in the grocery store. My travel guides are packed with insider tips, practical advice that will ignite your passion for exploration. Let give you the "local" view that's less crowded, no matter what time of the year. ✅ What I'm a great fit for: Mature travelers, couples, solo travelers, and anyone who enjoys hiking (day walking or long distance hiking), loves good food and drink and wants to be a part of the Portuguese culture for as many days as you can. Let's explore the world together, one unforgettable journey at a time! 🌍✈️💫 ➡️ Follow me on TikTok and Youtube @ddcardinal for my life and travel recommendations, tips, and more. #DDCardinal #ThatchDDCardinal
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