One Week in Inverness and the Isle of Skye
Getting There
You'll most likely be flying into Inverness Airport. To truly explore the Isle of Skye and the countryside and towns around Inverness you will need to rent a car. You can certainly see Scotland without one, but for this trip I am assuming you will be renting a car once you leave Inverness. I'll put a note in the itinerary on what day you should pick it up!
When to Visit
A lot of the attractions on Skye do close during the winter! Before you book your trip take a look at the opening times on castle websites and other attractions. Many places will only be available April thru Mid Oct! This doesn't mean you shouldn't visit Skye in the winter. But if you want to see everything, Spring or Fall is the best time to go. In summer you'll be competing with tourists and Scottish biting midges!
Day 1
Arrive in Inverness. For the first couple of days you'll be able to get by car free! Reach the center of Inverness from the airport either by train or taxi.
Stay:
This little cow takes your breakfast order at Aye Stay!
Home Away from Home:
I love Aye Stay. It’s in a great, quiet location, while still being walkable into the city for restaurants, shopping, and transportation. The included made to order breakfast every morning was well worth getting out of bed!
Luxury:
For a more luxurious stay, the beautiful Ness Walk Hotel is a 5 star hotel with spa and fine dining.
Budget Conscious:
If you’re one for going out nights, the Royal Highland Hotel is a good and very affordable option. The rooms are a bit dated and basic, but the building is next to the Inverness Train Station - you can’t get more central or well connected.
Depending on what time you arrive you’ll want to crash, go straight to dinner, or perhaps spend time wandering the city and doing some shopping.
If you’ve not packed a pair or waterproof shoes, a rain jacket, and umbrella, I suggest picking all three of these up before you head to Skye!! Don’t be like me and spend the week drying out your soaked through trainers each night! 😂
Dinner:
Book well ahead for all dine-in dinners while you're in Scotland! Restaurants fill up and you don't want to go hungry.
If you’re ready to dive into a fine-dining Scottish experience.
If you want cheap and cheerful fish and chips to take back to the hotel. This is a very basic local takeaway spot, but the food is ::chef’s kiss!::
Day 2
Jacobite Cruises will pick you up at the coach station near the train station and take you out of town to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. Be sure to book this ahead of your trip!
You’ll start your tour travelling through the countryside and along the Loch. You’ll board a ferry boat for a tour on Loch Ness, ending at Urquhart Castle. Here you’ll have some time to see the castle, and grab a hot drink and a cake in their cafe and shop. They’ve even got mini Scotch bottles on sale if your hot drink needs a little kick to keep you warm!
Dinner:
The Mustard Seed offers views of the River Ness and excellent food. The restaurant is located in a beautiful converted church, and still has some of the period features. I had a cheesecake dessert here with clotted cream fudge that I'm still thinking about.
Day 3
On Day 3 you will be heading to Skye! So first thing's first, you'll need to pick up a car.
The easiest place to rent cars in Inverness is back at the airport. It'll be a short taxi or train ride to the Inverness Airport to pick up a car. Be sure to book this ahead of time!
There are two routes to get to the Isle of Skye from Inverness. There is the North Route which takes you immediately over Kessock Bridge, and the South Route which takes you along Loch Ness.
I do not recommend the North Route for those who are not super confident drivers or used to using single track roads. You'll certainly find plenty of these once you get to Skye, but the North Route has many more somewhat hairy, single track farm roads.
You can't do Scotland without seeing many castles. Eilean Donan Castle has been built on a small island in the middle of a Loch and is well worth a visit. It is idyllic and picturesque, with a walking bridge across the loch to reach it. It is no wonder it has been featured in multiple films.
Driving in the Highlands will have you building up an anxious appetite. I HIGHLY recommend stopping at Hector's Bothy just before the Skye Bridge. The fish and chips here were the best I have had in my life. We even stopped again on the way back!
Stay:
Home Away from Home:
I love this little bed and breakfast. It is family run and newly renovated. The rooms are cosy and clean with spacious bathrooms. The lounge area is perfect for an evening drink before bed. Breakfast is provided each morning in the dining room and was ideal before adventuring around the island. Stay here and tell Jenny I sent you! I can't wait to go back.
A Touch of Luxury:
Staying here will make you feel like Scottish nobility. The antique art and furnishings lend a sense of glamour, the location right on the water is stunning, and the food is well worth the journey itself. If they'd let me I would move in!
For Downtown Dwelling:
Portree is the main town on the Isle of Skye. It is quaint, picturesque, highly walkable, and if you prefer to be downtown close to restaurants, pubs, and shops, you'll want to stay here.
Dinner:
Depending on where you're staying, here are a few great options.
Staying in Dunvegan, in the north:
Staying in the South:
The food at Kinloch Lodge is well worth the journey!
Staying in Portree:
Day 4
When in Scotland, start your day off with a castle! Dunvegan Castle is just lovely. After you tour the castle itself, leave plenty of time to walk all through each of the gardens. There are waterfalls, tree groves, a walled garden, and more. My husband says this is the castle he most wants to own :)
Lunch/Brunch:
The drive out to this lighthouse is very winding and full of potholes and single track roads! It is quite an adventure just to reach it. The views once you arrive though are just magical.
I'm throwing this place in because I myself am a potter and loved it. If you have no interest in handmade local pottery, by all means skip it! It's a great little spot for souvenirs and gifts though!
Dinner:
Edinbane has two great choices for dinner - Edinbane Lodge and Edinbane Inn. Edinbane Inn is more relaxed, where as Edinbane Lodge provides a fine dining experience.
Day 5
Getting to the Fairy Pools will require a hilly walk from the car park. It's not a vigorous hike by any means, and it is on a paved path, but be prepared to walk and to spend at least a couple of hours there. Once you reach the pools, rinse your face with the water for the promise of eternal youth! (It's worth a try!)
We've got to see our daily castle! Explore the castle, museum, gardens, and miles of walking trails. Pop into the cafe when you need a break!
Book ahead for a tour of the distillery! Tours book up fast. If all else fails, enjoy a Scotch tasting flight and a cake in the cafe.
Dinner:
When you've worked up an appetite, head to Red Skye Restaurant for hearty food in a 1876 schoolhouse.
Day 6
Be sure to get a good Scottish breakfast in before setting off for the day!
You can't leave Skye without seeing fuzzy Highland Cows! You'll most likely spot some on your drive through the Highlands, but the easiest way to make sure you see them is to go to a Cow Farm!
The drive out to Quiraing is just stunning - through mountain roads and wild grazing land for sheep and cows. There is a viewing point a short stroll from the car park that will allow you to get some lovely photos, but for the true experience make the trek all the way to the rock formation.
The hike to The Old Man of Storr is longer and more strenuous than my husband and I expected! When you get to a fork near the start of the trail, if you're not an experienced hiker, definitely take the left way around. Either way be prepared to spend at least an hour and a half total on this hike. The views are absolutely incredible at sunset!
Dinner:
You'll likely be famished once you've finished your hiking. Head back to Portree for Scottish comfort food.
Day 7
On the last day you'll make your way back to Inverness! The drive will take approximately 3 hours.
Lunch Along the Way:
For fish so good you have to stop twice...
Back in Inverness, once you've check into your hotel or bed and breakfast, enjoy one more evening exploring the city. If you have time, be sure to check out Inverness Castle.
Dinner
At River House we had the best seafood meal in Inverness. It is quite small, so be sure to book well ahead!
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