One Week in Inverness and the Isle of Skye

One Week in Inverness and the Isle of Skye

The Scottish Highlands and the Hebrides islands have my heart. Spend a week exploring magical northern Scotland.
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Getting There

You'll most likely be flying into Inverness Airport. To truly explore the Isle of Skye and the countryside and towns around Inverness you will need to rent a car. You can certainly see Scotland without one, but for this trip I am assuming you will be renting a car once you leave Inverness. I'll put a note in the itinerary on what day you should pick it up! 

When to Visit

A lot of the attractions on Skye do close during the winter! Before you book your trip take a look at the opening times on castle websites and other attractions. Many places will only be available April thru Mid Oct! This doesn't mean you shouldn't visit Skye in the winter. But if you want to see everything, Spring or Fall is the best time to go. In summer you'll be competing with tourists and Scottish biting midges!

Day 1

Arrive in Inverness. For the first couple of days you'll be able to get by car free! Reach the center of Inverness from the airport either by train or taxi.

Stay:

This little cow takes your breakfast order at Aye Stay!

Home Away from Home:

I love Aye Stay. It’s in a great, quiet location, while still being walkable into the city for restaurants, shopping, and transportation. The included made to order breakfast every morning was well worth getting out of bed!

Aye Stay
@nicoleladonne
A great, quiet location, but still walkable into the city. The included made to order breakfast every morning is well worth getting out of bed!
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Luxury:

For a more luxurious stay, the beautiful Ness Walk Hotel is a 5 star hotel with spa and fine dining.

Ness Walk Hotel - 5 Star Luxury Inverness Hotel
@nicoleladonne
A luxurious and lovely 5 star hotel with a wonderful spa and fine dining available.
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Budget Conscious:

If you’re one for going out nights, the Royal Highland Hotel is a good and very affordable option. The rooms are a bit dated and basic, but the building is next to the Inverness Train Station - you can’t get more central or well connected. 

Royal Highland Hotel
@nicoleladonne
Very central, with a touch of history. The main staircase inspired the one built on the Titanic!
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Depending on what time you arrive you’ll want to crash, go straight to dinner, or perhaps spend time wandering the city and doing some shopping.

If you’ve not packed a pair or waterproof shoes, a rain jacket, and umbrella, I suggest picking all three of these up before you head to Skye!! Don’t be like me and spend the week drying out your soaked through trainers each night! 😂

Dinner:

Book well ahead for all dine-in dinners while you're in Scotland! Restaurants fill up and you don't want to go hungry.  

If you’re ready to dive into a fine-dining Scottish experience. 

Rocpool
@nicoleladonne
Sophisticated Scottish fare with fresh flavors.
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If you want cheap and cheerful fish and chips to take back to the hotel. This is a very basic local takeaway spot, but the food is ::chef’s kiss!::

Max’s 2
@nicoleladonne
Cheap and cheerful takeaway, great fish and chips!
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Day 2

Jacobite Cruises will pick you up at the coach station near the train station and take you out of town to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. Be sure to book this ahead of your trip!

You’ll start your tour travelling through the countryside and along the Loch. You’ll board a ferry boat for a tour on Loch Ness, ending at Urquhart Castle. Here you’ll have some time to see the castle, and grab a hot drink and a cake in their cafe and shop. They’ve even got mini Scotch bottles on sale if your hot drink needs a little kick to keep you warm!

Jacobite Cruises
@nicoleladonne
Wonderful day trips available that include a coach tour, boat ride on Loch Ness, and visit to Urquhart Castle.
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Urquhart Castle
@nicoleladonne
Best way to visit from Inverness is by booking a Loch Ness tour!
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Dinner:

The Mustard Seed offers views of the River Ness and excellent food. The restaurant is located in a beautiful converted church, and still has some of the period features. I had a cheesecake dessert here with clotted cream fudge that I'm still thinking about.

The Mustard Seed Restaurant
@nicoleladonne
Beautiful location, this building was once a church and still has some of the iconic period features.
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Day 3

On Day 3 you will be heading to Skye! So first thing's first, you'll need to pick up a car.

The easiest place to rent cars in Inverness is back at the airport. It'll be a short taxi or train ride to the Inverness Airport to pick up a car. Be sure to book this ahead of time! 

Inverness Airport
@nicoleladonne
There is now train service available from Inverness Airport to get you into the center of town!
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There are two routes to get to the Isle of Skye from Inverness. There is the North Route which takes you immediately over Kessock Bridge, and the South Route which takes you along Loch Ness.

I do not recommend the North Route for those who are not super confident drivers or used to using single track roads. You'll certainly find plenty of these once you get to Skye, but the North Route has many more somewhat hairy, single track farm roads.

Eilean Donan Castle
@nicoleladonne
Eilean Donan Castle is picturesque and features in the 1986 movie Highlander and the 1999 World is not Enough.
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Driving in the Highlands will have you building up an anxious appetite. I HIGHLY recommend stopping at Hector's Bothy just before the Skye Bridge. The fish and chips here were the best I have had in my life. We even stopped again on the way back!

Hectors Bothy
@nicoleladonne
Best fish and chips of my life. Would travel to Scotland just for these fish and chips... probably.
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Stay:

Home Away from Home:

I love this little bed and breakfast. It is family run and newly renovated. The rooms are cosy and clean with spacious bathrooms. The lounge area is perfect for an evening drink before bed. Breakfast is provided each morning in the dining room and was ideal before adventuring around the island. Stay here and tell Jenny I sent you! I can't wait to go back. 

Atholl House Skye
@nicoleladonne
Perfect family run bed and breakfast. Newly renovated, warm, cosy, with great food and a lovely lounge area providing drinks service.
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A Touch of Luxury:

Staying here will make you feel like Scottish nobility. The antique art and furnishings lend a sense of glamour, the location right on the water is stunning, and the food is well worth the journey itself. If they'd let me I would move in!

Kinloch Lodge
@nicoleladonne
Lovely and luxurious. If you don't choose to stay here, at least make the journey for lunch or dinner. The food is superb.
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For Downtown Dwelling:

Portree is the main town on the Isle of Skye. It is quaint, picturesque, highly walkable, and if you prefer to be downtown close to restaurants, pubs, and shops, you'll want to stay here. 

Coolin View
@nicoleladonne
Great place if you prefer to be downtown close to restaurants, pubs, and shops.
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Dinner:

Depending on where you're staying, here are a few great options. 

Staying in Dunvegan, in the north:

Old School Restaurant
@nicoleladonne
The seafood is fantastic. This is a come as you are restaurant with warm, excellent service and hearty food. Grab a drink at the fireplace before or after your meal.
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Staying in the South:

The food at Kinloch Lodge is well worth the journey!

Kinloch Lodge
@nicoleladonne
Lovely and luxurious. If you don't choose to stay here, at least make the journey for lunch or dinner. The food is superb.
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Staying in Portree:

Sea Breezes
@nicoleladonne
Incredible views of the Portree harbor.
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Day 4

When in Scotland, start your day off with a castle! Dunvegan Castle is just lovely. After you tour the castle itself, leave plenty of time to walk all through each of the gardens. There are waterfalls, tree groves, a walled garden, and more. My husband says this is the castle he most wants to own :)

Dunvegan Castle & Gardens
@nicoleladonne
Leave plenty of time to explore all of the gardens!
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Lunch/Brunch:

This is another local spot that was so good we visited twice. If they are on the menu, go for the Cullen Skink soup or the venison burger!

Blas. Cafe/ takeaway/ deli/ bedrooms
@nicoleladonne
The dining room is small and it fills up! There's a carry out window if you can't get a spot.
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The drive out to this lighthouse is very winding and full of potholes and single track roads! It is quite an adventure just to reach it. The views once you arrive though are just magical. 

Neist Point Lighthouse
@nicoleladonne
It is quite an adventure just to reach the lighthouse! Don't attempt if you are not comfortable handling small, unpaved, single track roads.
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I'm throwing this place in because I myself am a potter and loved it. If you have no interest in handmade local pottery, by all means skip it! It's a great little spot for souvenirs and gifts though!

Edinbane Pottery
@nicoleladonne
Beautiful handmade pottery, perfect for souvenirs and gifts.
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Dinner:

Edinbane has two great choices for dinner - Edinbane Lodge and Edinbane Inn. Edinbane Inn is more relaxed, where as Edinbane Lodge provides a fine dining experience. 

Edinbane Inn
@nicoleladonne
Relaxed, traditional Scottish dining.
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Edinbane Lodge
@nicoleladonne
Scottish fine dining in a cosy lodge setting.
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Day 5

Getting to the Fairy Pools will require a hilly walk from the car park. It's not a vigorous hike by any means, and it is on a paved path, but be prepared to walk and to spend at least a couple of hours there. Once you reach the pools, rinse your face with the water for the promise of eternal youth! (It's worth a try!)

Fairy Pools
@nicoleladonne
Be prepared to walk to the pools, and to spend a couple of hours in total. Rinsing your face in the water promises eternal youth though!
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We've got to see our daily castle! Explore the castle, museum, gardens, and miles of walking trails. Pop into the cafe when you need a break!

Armadale Castle, Gardens & Museum
@nicoleladonne
In addition to the castle, there are miles of walking trails to explore.
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Book ahead for a tour of the distillery! Tours book up fast. If all else fails, enjoy a Scotch tasting flight and a cake in the cafe. 

Torabhaig Distillery
@nicoleladonne
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Dinner:

When you've worked up an appetite, head to Red Skye Restaurant for hearty food in a 1876 schoolhouse.

Red Skye Restaurant
@nicoleladonne
Hearty Scottish food served in a 1876 schoolhouse.
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Day 6

Be sure to get a good Scottish breakfast in before setting off for the day! 

You can't leave Skye without seeing fuzzy Highland Cows! You'll most likely spot some on your drive through the Highlands, but the easiest way to make sure you see them is to go to a Cow Farm! 

Scottish Cows Farm-Hectors Highland Coos
@nicoleladonne
You can't leave Skye without seeing Highland Coos!
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The drive out to Quiraing is just stunning - through mountain roads and wild grazing land for sheep and cows. There is a viewing point a short stroll from the car park that will allow you to get some lovely photos, but for the true experience make the trek all the way to the rock formation. 

Quiraing
@nicoleladonne
For those who do not wish to do the full hike, there is a viewing area a short stroll from the car park which is a great spot for photos.
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The hike to The Old Man of Storr is longer and more strenuous than my husband and I expected! When you get to a fork near the start of the trail, if you're not an experienced hiker, definitely take the left way around. Either way be prepared to spend at least an hour and a half total on this hike. The views are absolutely incredible at sunset!

The Storr
@nicoleladonne
When you get to a fork near the start of the trail, if you're not an experienced hiker, definitely take the left way around.
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Dinner:

You'll likely be famished once you've finished your hiking. Head back to Portree for Scottish comfort food. 

Dulse and Brose
@nicoleladonne
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Day 7

On the last day you'll make your way back to Inverness! The drive will take approximately 3 hours. 

Lunch Along the Way:

For fish so good you have to stop twice...

Hectors Bothy
@nicoleladonne
Best fish and chips of my life. Would travel to Scotland just for these fish and chips... probably.
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The Loch Ness Inn
@nicoleladonne
A great option when you're making your way through Drumnadrochit.
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Back in Inverness, once you've check into your hotel or bed and breakfast, enjoy one more evening exploring the city. If you have time, be sure to check out Inverness Castle.

Inverness Castle
@nicoleladonne
An 1800s castle that sits on a cliff overlooking the River Ness.
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Dinner

At River House we had the best seafood meal in Inverness. It is quite small, so be sure to book well ahead!

River House
@nicoleladonne
The seafood and drinks are wonderful, but the dining room is quite small! Be sure to book well in advance.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Hello! I’m Nicole! I’m a nomadic artist, writer, and photographer and have lived in Texas, Michigan, London, Hawaii, and now Virginia. I have travelled extensively through Europe, the US, and Mexico, and am the vacation planner and tour guide for everyone I know. I love everything about travel, and can not wait to share my favorite spots (especially my favorite places to eat!!) with you. All of my guides include restaurant recommendations, markets, museums, and must-see cultural and historical sites. I will also include notes on attractions that are, in my opinion, worth paying to experience, what you can save your money on and enjoy from the exterior, and what may be skipped all together. Take a look through my guides and get in touch with me for any custom planning services!
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