The Isle of Skye is pure magic. Maybe it's the lush, wild landscapes, or the charming hospitality of the locals, or maybe it's just the fairies...but you will be thoroughly enchanted by the Isle of Skye.
Note: I don't charge for guides, but many hotel and activity links are affiliated, so bookings through this guide are much appreciated!
The Isle of Skye is the largest of the outer Hebrides and is approximately 50 miles long. The MacLeod and MacDonald clans have their clan lands and castles on the Isle of Skye. Skye is best known for being a place of retreat for Bonnie Prince Charlie following his defeat at the Battle of Culloden. "The Skye Boat Song" was written to commemorate the journey of Prince Charles, but a modified version has become internationally popular as the theme song for the drama series Outlander.
In addition to its rich Jacobite and clan history, Skye is also known for being a haven for fairies and is steeped in fairy lore. Much of the landscape (particularly at the Fairy Glen) is itself whimsical and other-worldly, making it easy for any traveler to believe in magic.
Transportation
Getting There
Driving
I personally recommend renting a car and making the drive yourself. I've driven to Skye from both Inverness and Edinburgh and have had beautiful journeys with the flexibility to stop and explore.
From Edinburgh: This is a stunning drive through Glencoe and Fort William. I took the A82/A87 route and thought it was perfect. Not too busy on the roads if you're worried about driving and we got to see some gorgeous country. Stop at Crafts and Things in Glencoe for lunch or a cup of tea (don't forget a lemon bar)!
From Inverness: I would recommend Inverness if you're new to right-hand steering or worried about driving in a large city. There are several car-hire companies located at the airport outside of town (I used Sixt and had a lovely experience). To get to Skye, I took the A82 route along Loch Ness and it did not disappoint! *Note: There is a bridge that connects the Isle of Skye to the mainland at Kyle of Lochalsh. The bridge can periodically close due to high winds or other dangerous weather conditions.
Trains
There are trains that run from both Edinburgh or Inverness. Whether you're coming from Inverness or Edinburgh, most trains will terminate in Kyle of Lochalsh or Plockton. Once you arrive, you'll need to hire a car, book a taxi, or arrange transportation with your hotel.
Getting Around
In order to really see the Isle of Skye, it is in your best interest to rent a car. If you are content to stay in and around Portree, there is a local bus that is sufficient, but most of the must-see sites are best accessed via car.
Even if you're not staying at the hotel, this is a great dinner spot! The food is absolutely next-level and the staff are warm and inviting. Arrive early so you can take in the views of the lake and enjoy a drink from their generously stocked bar! Everything about Duisdale House Hotel is a real treat!
The town of Dunvegan is such a treat and Atholl House is centrally located within walking distance of all Dunvegan has to offer. The owners are so kind and have thought through every detail to make your stay perfectly comfortable. The rooms are quiet and clean and the dining room is outfitted with every convenience.
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What to Eat
Breakfast
Breakfast included: Check to see if your hotel offers breakfast of if it is included in your stay. The places I've stayed have all included breakfast and I was rarely tempted to eat breakfast elsewhere. Most source their offerings from local farms and vendors making for a very fresh and home-grown experience!
The Dunvegan Bakery and Coffee Shop is the perfect place for coffee and early morning pastry. Right along the water, you'll get to watch the village of Dunvegan come to life. If you take it to go, follow the Two Churches walking path that begins at the Duirinish Church...it'll take you up to the standing stones that overlook town. I did this nearly every morning I was in Dunvegan and it was the perfect way to start the day.
Popped in here for a quick and delicious fish and chips for lunch. From outside, it's easy to tell the restaurant is located in the old parish church. There is plenty of seating and the portions are hearty! The best place to warm up and fill up on a cold day.
The Dunvegan Bakery and Coffee Shop is the perfect place for a lush lunch or quick afternoon warm up. They have a sampling of their dinner offerings and a delicious cheese plate for midday diners! The coffee and pastries make for a perfect afternoon snack if you just need a little something to get to through til dinner. There's also a collection of local goods available for purchase that make great souvenirs.
Breakfast at the cafe is delicious! I went for a classic latte and a sweet bread and it was the perfect treat before an early morning walk. There is also a small shop with lots of bits and bobs, perfect for gifting!
Even if you're not staying at the hotel, this is a great dinner spot! The food is absolutely next-level and the staff are warm and inviting. Arrive early so you can take in the views of the lake and enjoy a drink from their generously stocked bar! Everything about Duisdale House Hotel is a real treat!
This is a Skye must-do, but the hike is pretty intense. Be prepared to go slow and take a rain jacket as the weather can change very quickly. There is plenty of paid parking and bathrooms at the base of the trail. Rangers regularly traverse the trail, so there is usually someone around to lend you a hand or answer questions. The views truly are incredible.
This is a great trail just outside of Portree. It's much more accessible than The Storr, and offers some gorgeous views! The parking is very hit or miss. It may be easier to park at the edge of town and walk over depending on crowds. Don't forget to look for sea shells along the coast!
Getting here is a bit of a drive, but WOW! We came for sunset and were not disappointed. One of the most gorgeous spots on Skye. Getting out all the way out to the lighthouse is a bit of a hike, but you can enjoy the views comfortably from near the car park. It can get busy, so make sure to head over a little before sunset to secure a spot.
I visit the pools every time I'm in Skye. The landscape is beautiful and unique, and I always love being near running water. Be warned: Some people are disappointed with the falls because they're much smaller than they appear in pictures. I still find them to be lovely and I think the area is great for a modest hike. You can stay as long (or as little) as you like. The car park is plenty big...I've never had to wait for a spot, and the fee is very reasonable.
Visiting this site is a little out of the way if you're staying in/around Portree, but it is SO worth it. The landscape is so unique and will absolutely make you believe in fairies. The road to the car park and trail head is very narrow, so be prepared to stop and wait for passing vehicles. It's a very easy hike and is great with kids!
You can't pick a bad spot. The entire walk is a bit of a hike, but the landscape is stunning and unlike anything I've seen anywhere else. Do as much or as little as you like. There is plenty of paid parking, but it gets busy in the summertime. During tourist season there will be some food carts with snacks and drinks available.
I think this is a beautiful spot that is great if it's on your way to something else, but doesn't merit it's own trip. It's very much a park-and-view site with a little bit of a trail for a stroll.
This is one of the most iconic castles in Scotland. It's on the southern end of Skye and would be easiest to visit as you're coming or going. It's very, very popular, so be prepared for crowds and book tickets in advance. It's a great place to brush up on your Jacobite history!
This is a gorgeous castle situated on Syke's west coast. It's only open for visits April 1 - October 15. It's not quite as popular as Eilean Donan, but there is a generous car park and you can usually buy day-of tickets. One of the best parts is the gardens! There is a sprawling botanic gardens on the grounds that is stunning, especially if you visit on a sunny day like we did!
This town is located just before you cross the Skye Bridge. It is the termination point for several trains that would take you to Skye. It features the usual shops and eateries, but also has some lovely walking trails.
Plockton is situation in a charming little inlet and allows for a casual stroll along the beach before heading up to the main street for a pint at one of it's pubs. It's a great little outing for an afternoon or a gorgeous sunset dinner over the water.
I am the biggest fan of Òr and wish very much that I could move into this dreamy little shop. It's the perfect place to pick up something special for yourself or for friends and family who couldn't make it with you to Skye. Don't forget to check out their second location for more treasures!
While I love a good charity shop in general, the reason to poke in this one is you can find baby sweaters, hats, and booties hand knitted or crocheted by local women in Skye. It's an incredibly special, thoughtful, and beautiful gift.
