When many people visit Santa Fe, they stay in the city and explore the many restaurants, galleries, and high-end stores in this rich cultural center. Don't get me wrong these are all lovely and definitely a must-see or a great weekend trip. However, I tend to venture down a road less traveled. If you are visiting Santa Fe, I definitely recommend a day or two on the high road to Taos. This is not the quickest route to Taos but is the most picturesque. It goes from Nambe, thru Chimayo to Taos, winding through several small towns and communities at the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
The Pueblo was established in the early 14th century and still home to a living Native American community. You can visit the Pueblo but should call before your visit as the community is subject to unexpected closures for religious ceremonies or other reasons. You must also respect and abide by all community rules and signage.
Nambé Falls and Recreation area is open to swimming, fishing, camping, and hiking. There is a spectacular waterfall and lots of summertime activities. Check the website for hours and fees.
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You’ll continue on State Road 503 towards Cundiyo. Amidst the badlands and juniper trees you will turn north on Road 98 (High Road to Taos) towards Chimayo. Chimayo is a step back in time. Our first stop is the Santuario de Chimayo, a shrine and place of worship built in 1813.
As an important Catholic pilgrimage site in the United States, it has been a place to ask for healing and a place to offer prayers of petition and of thanksgiving for favors received. The original church is Spanish Colonial in style and and one of the best preserved examples remaining in the Southwest
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After exploring the grounds and taking in the religious center through the eyes of your own faith, we recommend a food stop at Rancho de Chimayo.
This restaurant was founded in 1965 by descendents of one of Chimayos original colonist families, the Jaramillo’s. The family came from Mexico City and settled in the area in 1693, building the hacienda/ inn where you can stay today in the early 1800s. The restaurant serves some of the best New Mexico cuisine and even received a James Beard Award in 2016. You haven’t been to New Mexico until you’ve been to Rancho de Chimayo. Be sure to check ahead for hours and especially on the weekends, I recommend a reservation, it can be pretty busy. I recommend the prickly pear lemonade and a sopapilla rellano(stuffed sopapilla). Take home a cookbook to enjoy the flavors of New Mexico at home.
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My next recommended stop is on the way out of Chimayo, Ortega’s Weaving Shop.
Started as a general store in the early 1900s, Ortega’s continues a family tradition of weaving that dates back to the 1700s. They can create custom pieces or you can choose from hundreds of blankets, jackets, vests, runners, ect. There is a video on the history of the shop and a display with looms that are still used today. They also have artwork and jewelry made by local hispanic and Native American artisans from the nearby pueblos. If you have a chance to visit any of the numerous vintage stores in Santa Fe or Taos, they often have vintage jackets and vests from Ortega’s.
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Leaving Ortega’s, head east on Road 76. As you travel this road you’ll start to head higher into the Sangre de Cristo mountains. The next village is Truchas. If you enjoy Spanish Colonial architecture, there is another church, Nuestra Senora del Sagrado Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), which was built in 1805. There are altar screens painted by Pedro Antonio Fresquis, the “Truchas Master”, completed around 1821 still visible on the inside. These are some of the oldest catholic santero (religious imagery) that still exists in the southwest and in the United States.
The community of Truchas was established around 1754, and has remained relatively unchanged and still operates under many laws of the original Spanish land grant.
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The road continues to wind through mountain foothills to the village of Las Trampas. The town was first established in 1751 by 12 Spanish families. There was a low defensive wall with low buildings surrounding a central plaza and church. Today the wall is gone, but the plaza, town, and church remain.
San José de Gracia Church is a highly recommended stop. The church is a beautiful example of Spanish Colonial church architecture and was built in the 1760s. Although simple in form, the church was ornately decorated inside and much of this decoration remains today. There is also an original transverse clerestory window in the nave casts light on the sanctuary and altar. This type of window is characteristic of New Mexican colonial architecture and is not found in colonial style churches outside of the state. More information can be found on the National Park Service site here. The church is still operating and often open to visitors, especially on weekends.
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The next place to visit is Peñasco. This village as grown recently and is home to a artsy eclectic community. There is also a Carson National Forest Ranger Station here if you need maps or information for the surrounding forest. In case you didn’t manage to get your fill of tasty treats at Rancho De Chimayo, we suggest a stop at Sugar Nymph’s Bistro for a sweet treat.
They have homemade desserts that can’t be beat. The dessert menu is always changing, but they do usually have gluten-free and/ or vegetarian options. They also serve lunch and dinner.
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There is a restored mission church just west of town at Picuris Pueblo, the smallest of the 19 Pueblos in New Mexico.
San Lorenzo de Picurís Mission Church was restored in the 1960s to how it would have looked in the 1780s based on historical and archaeological information. The church is open for visitors.
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As you continue down the road, you’ll wind through Carson national forest. There are opportunities to head off on forest roads (if you have a 4-wheel-drive vehicle) and camp, hike, and explore. My recommended stop is Pot Creek Cultural Site.
This prehistoric pueblo was occupied by the ancestral Puebloans and was at its peak from 1260 – 1350 CE. During this time it would have looked similar to Taos Pueblo, with over 1000 inhabitants. While much of the Pueblo is on private land. There is a Forest Service access with a paved ADA-accessible trail, picnic tables, information signs, and reconstructed buildings.
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The city of Taos on its own is a place to explore and will be its own post (coming soon). However if you are on the High Road, there are two places you need to stop.
First is San Francisco de Asís Catholic Mission Church. As you reach Taos turn west at Ranchos de Taos instead of into Taos proper.
This is another 18th century Spanish colonial church and worth a visit. Make sure to take time to see the “Mystery Painting” with viewings on the hour, cost was $3 per person (you may need a reservation during peak times).
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If you head out of Taos to the North you can take a short side trip to overlook the Rio Grande River. The overlook itself is a little sketchy but the view is worth it. Sometimes there are bighorn sheep around. Take Highway 285 to the north and follow the signs.
PLEASE CHECK THE PUEBLO'S WEBSITE TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE OPEN TO NON-TRIBAL MEMBERS.
AS OF OCTOBER 2022, THE PUEBLO WAS STILL CLOSED AND FOLLOWING COVID RESTRICTIONS.
Taos Pueblo was constructed around 1000 CE to 1450 CE. It is the oldest continually inhabited building (although technically a group of homes and ceremonial structures, rather than a singular building) in the United States and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are people who still use the Pueblo as their primary residence and do not have modern conveniences. If you visit, please be respectful of the Pueblos rules and laws and be respectful of the people living here. If a sign says “Do Not Enter”, don’t enter. We visited pre-COVID and tours were available. We were then able to explore on our own and enter a few shops selling pottery and jewelry. There was a family selling fry bread with chokecherry jam that was delicious. There is another mission church that is still used today by inhabitants of the Pueblo that can be visited on the tour.
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Our trip on the High Road to Taos took a full day. We left Santa Fe around 8 AM after having breakfast and returned to Santa Fe via the “Low Road” by 8:30/9 PM. We had visited Taos before and didn’t spend time exploring the city’s many shops and galleries. If you plan to explore Taos more I recommend staying the night to give yourself time and to make sure everything is open. For a bit more luxury and away from the downtown center I recommend Palacio de Marquesa for an overnight stay in Taos.
To Return to Santa Fe you can take the same route back or take State Highway 68 to Espanola, then US 84 to Santa Fe. If driving in the evening or at night, there are lots of deer/ elk out and about especially through Carson National Forest.
Most travel blogs take you to high-end destinations all across the globe. The writers are influencers staying in luxe hotels that most people could never afford. But what about those places close to home, weekend destinations, or roadside attractions? Growing up my family went on a lot of road trips and stopped at all the roadside sites. There are a lot of things we miss when we fly everywhere or only stay on the interstate. There are a lot of neat places out your backdoor, you just have to find them.
