Kia Ora! I'm Natalie a brit that relocated to New Zealand 4 years ago and have been living in the tropical paradise that is northland or 'the winterless north'. I'm writing this guide as it amazes me how many people (not all) stop exploring NZ past Auckland, because what could possibly be on offer that far north right?
Well...
Introducing the Bay of Islands, a place I call home (specifically a town called Kerikeri). Approximately 3.5 hours north of Auckland. Home to some of the most beautiful beaches, islands, nature walks and boasting Māori culture.
Can I just please emphasize early HIRE OR PURCHASE A CAR/CAMPERVAN please, please, please otherwise you will miss out on a lot of hidden gems. We have very limited public transport.
Oh and one more thing... don't rush! I know what it is like to travel on a schedule and a budget and am aware that not many travelers have the freedom of no budget or schedule, however a lot of what is on offer here is in nature so please, if I can provide any advice, spend more than a few days exploring. If possible aim for a couple of weeks up to months if you have that freedom! You won't regret it.
I am going to provide some tips of the local hidden gems that you may not come across when doing your own research, alongside the classic touristic spots. I will do my best to cover as much as possible however if I have missed any area's you had your eye on, please reach out to me and I will be happy to advise further.
15/20mins drive from kerikeri town, approx 45 mins one way walk starting along a gravel road leading you through paddocks, grasslands and down through a short track of forest leading you onto one of the most beautiful, white sandy, calmest beaches. I have never seen more than 5 people on, sometimes I have been the only person there which to me is a delight in itself.
A 20 minute drive from kerikeri. A beautiful little bay, very family friendly, pebbly beach. Here you might sight some adorable baby stingrays pass by (which might put some off but I have never had a problem swimming here). There is also a short walk up to a lookout which I always refer to as the titanic viewpoint as it is shaped like the front of a boat.
Catch a ferry from paihia, a beachfront town 25 mins drive from Kerikeri. This island is a delight, offering multiple short walks, options to camp overnight, featuring a beachfront restaurant/bar with simple 'pub grub'. Relax on a beanbag and drink a nice cold glass of wine or beer, hike around the island exploring the different bays on offer, kayak or paddleboard and catch the last ferry back to paihia.
Approx 1 hour 15 min north of Kerikeri. An area that is often described as 'the closest beaches you'll get to Fiji'. Pristine white sand beaches with the clearest water. Here you have a few to choose from, puheke beach, rangiputa, tokerau. There is also a short walk up a very steep hill to an amazing viewpoint of the bays and also paddocks. Matai bay is a DOC campsite where you can camp for the night and walk the matai bay headland track.
Approx 1.5 hours south of Kerikeri on the east coast. A personal fav, secluded little bay with a stunning walk around the peninsula. There is a small lookout point which is nice to watch the sun go down.
NZ's most northern point where you'll see two oceans collide, take a stroll to the lighthouse and soak in the views. A highly spiritually significant place for Maori.
A go to spot yearly for my partner and I. Take a swim in the lake, paddleboard, camp over night and you can even bike a loop around the lakes. Climb up to the top of the hills and enjoy beautiful sunsets with a glass of wine in hand.
A must-stop spot when visiting Cape Reinga. An adrenaline filled day full of fun, but let me tell you one thing... this is gonna tire you out! (the photos here don't really do it justice).
Bring along your own board or rent one when you arrive.
Another personal favourite camping spot. Take a walk over the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere or enjoy a coastal walk to sandy's bay at tutukaka a bit further down south.
A geothermal hot pool complex, featuring a variety of cold and hot pools amongst the 16 mineral pools to choose from.
Come and relax, unwind and soak. A place that is historical known for healing.
A 25 minute drive from central Kerikeri.
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Not to mention a few other spots... Staying local: Taupo Bay, Tauranga Bay, Mangonui. Venturing out to other areas of northland: Tutukaka, Matapouri, Goat Island, Ninety Mile Beach, the whole coast from Kerikeri to whangarei, Mangawhai Heads, Opononi and the list is endless.
A great spot for sunrise. This short walk takes approx 25/30 mins one way.
A good alternative overlooking the whangaroa harbour if the dukes nose track is slightly too challenging.
Beautiful forest walk with a couple of small river crossing and towards the end a short climb up a rock (a pole is provided) to the most incredible views over the bays. Take a dip in the water and sleep at the DOC hut provided and stargaze is always a must-do for us each year.
The start of the track is up a little driveway, dont worry you're in the right place!
A beautiful bush walk with a stunning waterfall along the way. You can even stop off at the plough and feather restaurant for a refuel. Easily accessible from kerikeri town along waipapa road.
Please note there are different length of routes for this track.
One of NZ's great walks just over 16km one way (prepare for this in advance as it's challenging and very up and down, up and down). You will sleep in the DOC hut and return back the next day. (Some even pre-book a boat back but you will still need to walk a couple of hours to the pick-up point). My partner and I completed one way in approx 6.5 hours but I think average time is 8 hours. Finish off by taking a refreshing dip at the start of the track at oke bay beach.
A must stay spot when visiting the far north. Hike the matai bay headland track and camp overnight at the local campsite.
Or stop by after exploring other area's of the karikari peninsula.
A cute little walk through the bush, not forgetting to notice the little houses on the rocks (you'll know what I mean when you go). Take a dip at the swimming hole.
You can also camp here overnight which is a bonus. Some even bike here as it is along the twin coast cycle trail.
A personal favourite on the waterfront with the option of dining inside (a more refined menu, making everything from scratch using local ingredients) or sit outside in the sunshine at the garden bar offering a more relaxed style menu, artisan hand-crafted beer selection and their own locally produced wine. Happy hour is available and live music from local musicians making this a go-to spot no matter the day.
Asian-fusion, japanese based restaurant with a northland twist. A small intimate restaurant in Wharepuke's subtropical gardens. Take a short stroll after dinner to walk off the delicious food and ask Diane to pair your wine to your meal. She is an expert!
Across the water in a small picturesque town called Russell. Easily one of my favourite summer spots I visit every year. You can catch the car ferry or passenger ferry from paihia/opua.
A winery offering stunning views, sharing platters, pizza and of course the most delicious wine. An all-rounder delight.
Depending on staffing levels/bookings, a courtesy van is available but please ring in advance to check/book this.
Awarded one hat (similar to michelin star rating). Using locally sourced ingredients, another personal favourite of mine. I like to stay overnight in russell as this restaurant is a bit off the beaten track but the restaurant kindly offers a free shuttle to and from your accommodation so you can fully indulge in their impressive wine choices but please call in advance to book this.
Offering stunning views throughout the day also. A win-win location.
A contemporary dining restaurant, offering degustation menu's from time to time as well as a la carte. A small intimate restaurant with a balcony area overlooking paihia's waterfront. Great spot for a sunset dinner.
Offering only lunch service or the option of wine-tasting (or both!) another must-go-to spot. They produce some of the most amazing wine, I actually enjoy them all equally (although I think their Black Rock's Chardonnay is 10/10). Located on some beautiful grounds with a small pond area to explore.
Close to kerikeri town centre, approx 10 minute drive.
Our local market and cafe, open every day, delivering the best coffee in town, locally grown produce and a weekend market with many stalls from crafts, to wine, to vegetables, to food trucks to explore. A close friend of mine who originates from Germany is the pastry chef here and without being biased... her passion and love for food creates the most mouth-watering delicacies. Pop on in and check out what goodie's you can get your hands on.
A 5 minute drive from central town or soak up the sunshine and walk!
Situated on paihia's waterfront, offering a more relaxed vibe with live music, cocktails and tapas style menu. A great spot to hang out with friends or simply indulge in some sharing plates.
Check out their sister restaurant bad habits in paihia also delivery a similar style of dining!
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A few other options to note are the Village Cafe, Pipsqueak Cafe, Curry King offering thai and indian cuisine, Cafe Jerusalem israeli inspired and Istanbul Kebab, offering turkish.
Accomodation
Let's talk accomodation briefly. I would recommend to those on a budget or hiring a campervan to make use of DOC campsites. Most provide long-drop toilets and some even provide showers and cooking facilities.
Campermate is a good APP to check out spots
Visit DOC website and simply enter the region or campsite if you know it https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-stay/stay-at-a-campsite/
Local Backpackers: https://www.honeheke.co.nz/ or https://www.kericentral.co.nz/
Another local spot https://kerikeriglamping.nz/
Check out Airbnb
If you feel confident you can check out the local social media pages to see what rentals are available short term as this could save money if you plan to stick around a while!
Stay Kerikeri Boutique Apartments + Studios Five Star
A good option for that lower budget. Cute cabins available. We like to stay here when we visit Omata Estate and Sage restaurant and typically get picked in a courtesy van. A short drive from Russell's waterfront.
A beachfront town 25 minutes from kerikeri by car. Here you can visit an isite and book boats over to the islands, parasail, treat yourself to a heli-tour, go shopping at the local souvenir shops or simply grab an ice cold drink and a bite to eat on the waterfront.
Offering so much insight into NZ's most historic site and Maori culture. Here you can also visit the mountain bike park for a fun day out offering a variety of different tracks suitable to all skill levels.
A 5-10 minute drive from paihia's waterfront where you can stop for some food and drinks.
A 87km trail across the bay of islands which can be divided into 4 sections, Ride them individually or all in one. Some chose to bike-camp also! There are shuttles available to pick you and your bike up and take you back to your car depending on where you started the track. For more information check out the link.
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- 4WD along ninety mile beach
- Visit the local wineries
- Eat a hangi!
- Ride the BOI vintage railway on a steam train in Kawakawa and stop to spend a penny in the Hundertwasser Public Toilets
- Parasail, skydive or take a helicopter ride over some of our 144 islands here in the bay of islands
- Take a boat trip to the hole in the rock, you may even see our local dolphins and orca's that pop by for visits
- Get your fish on and cook up a scrumptious dinner
- Go diving at some local wrecks, snorkeling, surfing and if you get extra lucky you might even sight a kiwi!
- As you head south check out the glow worm caves
Thank you for reading to the end. If you enjoyed a little insight into my life here in Northland NZ and found this guide useful, I would be very grateful to be blessed with a tip, ensuring I can continue to create free guides, sharing my travelling passions and helping you on your journey. There are many to come.
Kia Ora! I'm Natalie, originally from the UK but residing in New Zealand, in the Far North, Bay of Islands.
I moved to NZ 4 years ago and work as a nurse here. I have always had what some may say 'an addiction' to traveling, but in my defence it's a healthy addiction! I can never quite summarize in words what I get from traveling but I crave learning about cultures, gaining new experiences, new scenery, new individual's. All these aspect's of exploring are what contribute to my overall happiness as a person and what makes me me. Oh, and if you can't tell, I love the outdoors.
