Bay of Kotor Road Trip: Very Opinionated Travel Tips
Tip 1: Go in September or early October
The weather is still stunning and the crowds have thinned (somewhat) from the summer onslaught. Some restaurants may be closed, but everything mentioned below is wide-open and far from packed.
Tip 2: Don’t stay too long in Budva
A. Unless you are into clubs and casinos, you can see Budva in a night (or two). The teeny-tiny old town hums with tourists during the day, but if you stay in an old town apartment, it’s utterly charming to explore in the early morning or evening.
B. I highly recommend this wacky three-story “grandma’s digs.” It overlooks the bell tower and houses up to 4.
C. Budva dining options underwhelm, but you can’t go wrong with the simple, hearty pasta at Pastabar.
D. Stroll the waterside path to the beach at sunrise and you’ll have it mostly to yourself. Besides a skinny-dipping Swede, I was completely alone for almost two hours.
E. Remember to pose with the Budvanska Ballerina.
F. In the evening, hang out with a cocktail at the Blue Cat Art Cafe.
Tip 3: Take the Slow Road to Kotor
B. With 15 switchbacks, this aptly named road offers viewpoints overlooking the bay and out to the Adriatic Sea. Popular with cyclists (both leg-powered and motor), you’ll have to take it slow, but the road is good and the detour WELL worth it.
Tip 4: Stay for three or four nights halfway between Kotor and Perast.
A. Parking in Kotor is mostly far from the old town and Perast is tiny. Opt for an apartment with water views in the towns in between instead.
B. Apartment Magical View offers comfortable, modern studios with water views in Ljuta. Nights are quieter here and you can easily make a few short drives to explore both cities and the attractions in between and slightly beyond.
C. Plus, nearby Veranda restaurant offers parking and well-priced, no-nonsense, and delicious, food.
Tip 5: Stroll Old Town Kotor early in the morning
A. The perfect day in Kotor starts early in the morning. Hit the streets by 7:30 or 8:00 am and you’ll have these narrow alleys to yourself. Grab a coffee and croissant at Patisserie by Wine House, then wander into the historic Saint Luke’s and Saint Tryphon’s churches right when they open at 9:00.
B. By 10:00 am, as the cruise ship denizens descend, exit by the old town’s north gate and hit the Ladder of Kotor trail. Hike up, up, up to extraordinary views and the crumbling edifice of the fortress. Stop halfway down at the (I kid you not) hillside cheese shop. Buy some cheese for takeaway and the owner will insist you sit down and try his homemade raki (strong regional liquor). Sip it surrounded by cats with this view to admire:
C. Back down in town, grab lunch at Restoran Atrium. If you’re a fan of tuna tartare, this is not only one of the best you’ll ever have, the photo-worthy plating is simply splendid and will look marvelous on the ‘gram.
Tip 6: Visit Perast in the late afternoon
A. Roll into Perast around 2:30 or 3:00 pm and grab a water taxi to the Church of Our Lady of Skrpjela before it closes (check hours, it’s between 4-6 pm, depending on the time of year). Take in the church’s Italianate beauty and the lovely views of town.
B. Taxi back and wander around town. Pop into the Perast Museum, which features maritime and town history.
C. Avoid the waterside restaurants and climb up the hillside to Trattoria Rosmarino in time for sunset. Easily the best high-end dining experience on the bay, the views astound, and the wine list serves. But the fresh fish and seafood dishes are what fill the seats.
Tip 7: While in the Kotor area — one touristy “do” and one “don’t”
A. MUST DO: Sip wine and slurp mussels at Kraken Wines. This gimmicky, yet totally worth it, wine tasting experience is one-of-a kind. Float on a tricked-out platform in the bay while your hosts haul bottles of aged wine from the bottom of the sea floor and serve it — along with seafood and charcuterie.
B. DON’T BOTHER: Skip the organized boat trips. The affordable ones are overcrowded and contrived. One major stop is at the Church of Our Lady of Skrpjela, which you can reach easily by water taxi and take your time visiting instead. Another major stop is the Blue Cave, which although cool, is packed with boats and generally not THAT unique. So, skip it unless you have plenty of cash (between 300-480 euros) to spend on a private boat — which will take you to any nook and cranny you want on this beautiful bay.
Tip 8: Herceg Novi is worth more time than you think.
A. The largest city on the bay, Herceg Novi often is overlooked by cruise ships and other tourists. And, that’s a good thing. The Old Town is small, but flat-out adorable, and the breathtaking views from this hillside city alone make a few days here worth your while.
B. Visit Kanli Kula and Savina Monastery just before sunset. The first, an ancient fortress and performance venue, and the second, a stunning orthodox church. Both offer the type of expansive evening views that epitomize Kotor Bay’s glittering beauty.
C. After (or before) your monastery visit, pop over to Savina Winery next door. Pre-booking is a must for a private tour and tasting. No walk-ins accepted.
D. Stay at Master 5 Apartments just outside the clock tower of Old Town. These cleverly designed and comfortable studio apartments offer easy access to everything. Oh, and you guessed it — views!
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