A Taste of Istria: Truffle Hunt, Wine Tasting, and Motovun Magic
Istrian Coast: The Istrian coast has lovely seaside towns and beautiful beaches, perfect for swimming, sailing, or just relaxing by the clear blue water. Towns like Poreč, Umag, and Rovinj are especially charming, with their old town areas, busy marinas, and lively waterfronts.
Green Istria: The inland part of Istria, known as Green Istria, is great for hiking and cycling, with scenic paths through vineyards and forests. This area is also famous for its truffles, olive oil and wine. It is also full of medieval hilltop villages that look like they’re from another time. Motovun, famous for its stunning views and annual film festival, is a must-see. Grožnjan, known as the “town of artists,” offers stone houses, art galleries, and music festivals. Buzet and Livade are particularly noted for their delicious truffle dishes.
Morning: Truffle Hunt Adventure
Our day started with a truffle hunt in Livade, a small town about two hours by car from Ljubljana. Unfortunately, there’s no public transportation available, so driving is the best option.
So, what exactly is a truffle? Truffles are a type of edible fungus that grows underground, often near the roots of trees like oaks. They’re highly valued in the culinary world for their rich, earthy flavor and aroma. The most famous types are the white truffle and the black truffle.
White truffles have a pale, cream-colored look and a strong, earthy aroma with hints of garlic and cheese. Their flavor is intense and garlicky, making them perfect for shaving raw over dishes like pasta or eggs. They are mostly found in Italy and Istria from September to December.
Black truffles have a dark, rough surface and a milder, earthy scent with a touch of chocolate. Their flavor is rich and slightly nutty, less intense than white truffles, and they can be used in more ways, either raw or cooked. Black truffles are found in France, Spain, and Italy, and are harvested from November to March. For those new to truffles, they taste earthy, rich, and slightly like mushrooms, with a unique aroma that adds a special touch to any dish.
Since truffles grow underground, specially trained dogs are used to sniff them out, making the hunt both an adventure and a treasure hunt.
As a truffle lover, I was excited to join Nikola, our local guide, for this unique experience. Nikola, a former civil engineer who traded his office job for the woods, led us on our truffle hunt through the Istrian countryside. His passion for truffles and deep knowledge of the region made the experience truly engaging. He explained everything we needed to know about truffles, from how they grow to how they’re harvested, answering all our questions along the way.
The hunt was an exciting mix of nature and adventure. After finding some truffles, we enjoyed a tasting session. We tried a variety of truffle-based treats, like cheeses, meats, and olive oils, as well as spreads made with both white and black truffles. My favorite was the omelet with truffle. There’s also a shop where you can buy some of these delicious truffle products to take home.
Midday: Wine Tasting at Tomaz Winery
After the truffle hunt, we headed to Tomaz Winery for a wine-tasting session. I first discovered this family-owned winery at a food festival and instantly fell in love with their rosé sparkling wine. I knew I had to visit the vineyard for a full tasting experience. The place is beautiful—you can enjoy your wine while taking in the amazing views of Motovun.
Afternoon: Exploring Motovun
Next up was Motovun, a medieval hilltop town that feels like stepping back in time, with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Whether you decide to grab lunch or just explore, this place is full of surprises.
Late Afternoon: Brandy Tasting at Aura
Before heading back to Ljubljana, we made one final stop in Buzet at Aura Distillery for a brandy-tasting experience. Aura is famous for its artisanal brandies made from local fruits. I’m a big fan of their Teranino, but this time I tried Biska liqueur (mistletoe in English) I also got to taste their gin Karbun, which is pretty special.
The gin is made from grain distillate and juniper, along with 20 different herbs and spices, including coriander, thyme, lavender, and ginger. What’s really unique is that during distillation, the gin is filtered through activated charcoal, which purifies it even more. Every bottle of Karbun comes with a small bag of charcoal pieces, which you can add to your glass with ice and a slice of orange for a truly unique experience.
It was the perfect way to wrap up our Istrian adventure with a taste of local flavors.
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