A weekend in Mérida, Yucatán

A weekend in Mérida, Yucatán

Ricardo Patron Mier y Teran
Visiting Mérida for the weekend? Here is an itinerary and some tips for visiting the city and its beautiful surroundings for a few days. I was born in the city and have lived here most of my life; as such, I'll give you an itinerary based on my favorite places and those I consider unskippable for a short-term visit. As it is the perfect place to explore the many wonders of the state it serves as capital, I'll share recommendations for places to visit, stay, eat, and drink in the city.
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A few tips beforehand

Main Airport

Manuel Crescencio Rejón Airport (MID)

There are a few ways to get from the airport to the city center. Only airport-licensed taxis are allowed to pick up directly from the airport. If you wish to use an online platform lift service, you must walk for 10 minutes from the airport area. Additionally, there is the Va-Y-Ven Bus service for 45 pesos, which you can buy from the ADO stand inside and use for transport to other locations. 

Notwithstanding, for this itinerary, I strongly recommend renting a car. It allows for more freedom to spend time in different places as you please, and it often can be cheaper than visiting the surroundings with a tour, especially if two people or more are part of the trip.  

Tipping

Safety

Merida and the state of Yucatan are often considered the safest in the whole country of Mexico. Having lived here, I have never experienced a situation that made me feel unsafe. However, as with any other place, it's essential to be aware of your surroundings and take precautions to ensure safety. 

Day 1

Explore and get to know the city on the first day of your visit. Most of the attractions and interesting places are in or close to the city center, within walking distance of each other. 

Morning

Start your morning by visiting the Market area of Mérida. Wander through stalls full of products and food, or just watch locals pass by. The outside of the Mercado San Benito offers great opportunities to taste regional food that is slightly different from others in Mexico. A visit of 1 to 2 hours should be more than enough time. 

San Benito Market
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This market is part of a bigger complex of markets, including stores and stalls that sell all kinds of things, from food, meat, fruits, and vegetables to clothes, kitchenware, handicrafts, and everything in between. The exterior part of the market contains several places where you can taste local and traditional foods, such as panuchos or tacos de cochinita.
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If you are interested in the history, the city museum stands nearby. It is a small museum that tells the story of Mérida and Yucatan. It can work as a quick stop on your way to the Plaza Grande. 

Museum of the City of Merida
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The museum building illustrates the historical development of Mérida as it is located at the former Federal Post Office Palace, a building of great importance, both for its architectural characteristics and historical value, which was inaugurated in 1908. It contains exhibitions on the history of the city divided into 4 sections: Pre-Hispanic Merida, the Spanish Colonia or Mérida Novohispana, Mérida in the 19th century and early 20th century, and the Twentieth century and forward. Information is both in Spanish and English, and entrance is free for all visitors.
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Afternoon

To continue your day, head towards the Plaza Grande, the main square in the city. Take a moment to observe the surroundings by sitting down on a shaded bench in the plaza. Visit or just admire the Cathedral or the Casa de Montejo, the two oldest standing buildings of the city, constructed at the time of the city's foundation in the 1500s.  

Mérida Cathedral - San Ildefonso
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This is the second-oldest Roman Catholic cathedral completed in the Americas. Construction began in 1561 and was completed in 1598. Stones from the Mayan temple of Yajam Cumu were used to build it. During the 19th century, some of the cathedral's treasures and works of art were stolen or lost due to the political instability that the city suffered during this period. Most of the remaining art and treasure were further lost during looting that occurred during the Mexican Revolution.
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Casa de Montejo
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The house was built between 1542 and 1549 for the conquerors of the Yucatan Peninsula, the Montejos, to be used as their family residence in the city's historic center. It is possibly the only example in Mexico of a civil house built in the 16th century in the Plateresque style. The building belongs to the Fundación Fomento Cultural Banamex, A.C., and contains a museum showcasing its architecture and decorated rooms. The entrance to the museum is free.
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Regional Museum of Anthropology - Palacio Cantón
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The museum is in an eclectic building with classical, neoclassical, and French baroque architecture details. It was built by General Francisco Cantón, governor of Yucatán, at the end of the Porfiriato. It exhibits a collection of the Yucatecan Mayan culture consisting of stelae, carved stones, various sculptures, and ceramic samples, most of which have been obtained from the Yucatan Peninsula archaeological sites. Currently, the entrance fee is 90 pesos.
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Nearby is one of the locations of "Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón," one of the most traditional places in the city for grabbing water-based ice creams and other sweets. Try out any of the unusual flavors made with local fruits such as Mamey or Guanabana. 

Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón
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Founded in 1907, this place offers ice cream and tropical fruit sorbets with original recipes. It also has various traditional sweets. Visiting this establishment is one of the most deeply rooted traditions among Yucatecans and visitors. There are several locations, although the main ones are at the Plaza Grande and the Paseo de Montejo. I recommend the last one, which has a larger open space under the trees that line the avenue. Another recommendation is to try out the local tropical fruit flavors offered. Mamey is among the most popular; soursop is another common option. When in season, do not miss the dragon fruit or ciruela flavors.
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Evening

Take a stroll on the Paseo de Montejo as the sun goes down. Have dinner and a drink by the avenue or around the Santa Lucía Park. Check out my Mérida Guide to find some of the best places to do so.   

Santa Lucía Park
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It is a plaza located in the historic center. Along with the Plaza Grande, it is the oldest in the city, dating back to 1542, the year the city was founded. Every Thursday since 1965, the corner of the park has been transformed into a stage for the traditional Yucatecan Trova. Jarana dance presentations also occur. If you are interested in traditional local music or dances, it is a great chance to experience either. The park also has several high-end restaurants, that offer a good variety of food to try out as they focus on different cuisines.
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Day 2

On your second day, prepare to visit the ruins of Mayan cities. Closer to Mérida than Chichen Itza and to other archeological zones, I recommend visiting ancient Uxmal. Between one hour and one hour and a half from the city, an early morning to arrive by 8 or 9 a.m. is well worth it to make the most out of the day.  Uxmal offers great views, monumental buildings, and a much more relaxed environment when compared to Chichen Itza.

Archaeological Site of Uxmal
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Uxmal is one of the two greatest Mayan city ruins in the state. Located between one hour and one hour and a half from Merida, there are many who prefer visiting this wonderful city over making a longer trip to Chichen Itza. The archaeological site is located at the center of the Puuc region (mayan for "hill" or "chain of low mountains"). Uxmal and the other sites in the region are the pinnacles of late Maya art and architecture in their design, layout, and ornamentation, with the adequately named Puuc style describing those characteristics. Because of its importance, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Uxmal was founded c. A.D. 700 and had some 25,000 inhabitants. Toward the 10th century A.D., it was mainly abandoned by its inhabitants. Some of the most important buildings they left behind are the Pyramid of the Soothsayer, the Quadrangle of the Nuns, the Governor's Palace, and the House of the Tortoises. You can get an impressive elevated view of the city from these last two. The price for visiting is 240 pesos for Mexican nationals and 531 pesos for people of other nationalities. You can hire a guide at the entrance. You will need at least 2 hours to visit the whole complex or see most of it. I'll recommend visiting in the morning to avoid the heat of later hours. I cannot recommend Uxmal enough if you are looking for a calm visit while enjoying your surroundings, ruins, and nature.
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Continue on by taking a ride and choosing to visit one or two of the nearby Mayan ruins in the Puuc Regio, such as Kabah, another well-preserved city in the Puuc Region, Sayil or Labna, both ruins much more surrounded by nature. 

Archeological Site of Kabah
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Kabah is the second-largest ruin complex in the Puuc region. The site is crossed by a highway, with places to visit on both sides. Most of what is now visible was built between the 7th century and 11th centuries in the Puuc style. Along Uxmal, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most famous structure at Kabah is the "Palace of the Masks," decorated with hundreds of masks of the long-nosed rain god Chaac; it is also known as the Codz Poop. A 20-minute drive from Uxmal, you'll find some services and guides at the site entrance. The entrance fee is 75 pesos. You will need between one hour and an hour and a half to visit the site.
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Archaeological Site of Sayil
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Deeper in the Puuc region is Sayil. An archeological site surrounded by nature, you will be in contact with the region's environment like in no other ruins. Another Puuc-style ruined city, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was mainly populated between the years 800 a 1000 A.D. until it entered into decline. The remains of the Palace of Sayil constitute its most important building. Located at its center, you will find winding paths leading you to other buildings in the middle of the natural scenery. It is only 10 minutes away from Kabah and 30 from Uxmal. The entrance fee is 70 pesos. You will find restrooms and other services at the entrance.
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Archaeological Site of Labna
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Labna is the furthest from the region's sites. It is mainly famous and recognizable for its decorated gateway arch, three meters wide by six meters high, one of the main representative buildings of the Puuc style. The site was populated since 200 BC and reached its peak between the years 800 and 1000 A.D. The city extended over 2.2 km2 and housed just over 3,000 inhabitants. In it you can also admire the monuments called El Palacio and El Mirador, which is a temple at the top of a pyramid. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entrance fee is 70 pesos. Just like Sayil and Xlapak, it is not as visited as other sites, so there is a good chance you'll be one of the only visitors, if not the only. There are few services at the entrance. It is located 35 minutes away from Uxmal.
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After visiting the places you selected, travel to Mani to try one of the most traditional restaurants in the state, El Principe Tutul Xiu. Named after the late Mayan chiefdom that used to be centered around the small town, do not miss trying out the Poc-Chuc. 

El Príncipe Tutul Xiu
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El Príncipe Tutul Xiu is located in the small town of Mani, a place full of history and a "Pueblo Magico". In the Mesoamerican postclassic period, it was the capital of the Mayan dynasty of the Tutul Xiúes, from where the restaurant gets its name. Mani is also famous as the location of the burning of codices and symbols of the Mayan gods by the first bishop of Yucatán, Diego de Landa, in the year 1562. The restaurant offers regional Yucatecan cuisine. It is one of the most traditional restaurants in the state. I grew up going whenever I visited the Puuc region. Standouts from the menu are the relleno negro, relleno blanco, and, most famously, their poc chuc. The dishes' price is between 80 and 150 pesos. Mani is their original location, but you can also find them in nearby towns such as Ticul and Oxkutzcab.
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Finish the day, by returning to Mérida and enjoying a Marquesita, a traditional dessert made with dutch cheese usually served as a street food. 

Day 3

If you wish to make the most out of a day visiting cenotes, I recommend heading towards Homún, a town renowned for these particular natural formations, to visit Cenotes Santa Bárbara. Here, your entrance fee includes a visit to 4 cenotes, a bike or a ride on a traditional "truk" to move in between, among other things. You can also opt to include food from their restaurant for an additional fee, which is a quite good deal in my opinion.  

Cenotes Santa Bárbara
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Cenotes Santa Barbara is an excellent sample of the cenotes in Yucatan. It is located between Homun and Cuzama, two towns renowned for their cenotes. Here, one payment offers you access to 4 different cenotes, all differing in type. One fun part is that you can decide your transport for the visiting route around the cenotes. You can use a bike or jump on a Truc, a traditional rail cart pulled by a horse. You can spend as much time as you want in each cenote, but keep in mind that the place might be full of people depending on the hour. As the place expanded and its fame grew, it became a really visited place. Know that if you are looking for something off the beaten path, this is not it. One of the main reasons is the price. To get into four cenotes for under 250 is a deal. To have that and lunch for under 400 is just great. Their restaurant with regional cuisine has good quality from my previous visits, so it is a good option for right after when you are tired of swimming for most of the day.
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Some Hotel Recommendations

Rosas & Xocolate Boutique Hotel + SPA
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This is my favorite hotel among the ones in the Paseo de Montejo, with its renovated French-style mansions. With spacious rooms, your stay is guaranteed to be amazing. They all have an outdoor Jacuzzi, sound system, high-speed wireless Internet, television, and air conditioning. Other amenities on-site include a quality restaurant, a spa, a boutique store, a gym, bicycles, and concierge service.
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Hostik Hostal
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I believe this is a great option for those willing to save money or simply live the backpacker life. Relatively new and comfy, the Hostel offers a variety of rooms and beds at different price points starting from $245 pesos. Often full of younger people, the hostel has various activities one might opt to join. Other amenities include a shared kitchen and a pool, a great place to work from while relaxing at the same time.
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Hotel NH Collection Mérida Paseo Montejo
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This hotel has modern and comfy rooms and is easy to access to the city. It is located near the Paseo de Montejo and the new Convention Center, atop Paseo 60, a commercial plaza with good restaurants and transportation options. ADO buses leave from here to nearby places and cities. Public transport, such as the Va-Y-Ven or other buses, goes through 60th Street at all times. The hotel has amenities such as a pool for relaxing, a rooftop bar with great views, parking, a gym, spacious rooms, and a restaurant.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Ricardo Patron Mier y Teran
While I might not be fully dedicated to traveling, I have been passionate about travel since I can remember. I truly end up being my happiest when I'm traveling. I expect to share that happiness and passion by connecting with more people while sharing my knowledge of some of the great places I have experienced.
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