Divina Cucina's Markets of Palermo

Palermo is a great place to start your adventures in Sicily.

Updated ago

There are so many wonderful places to stay, these four are all in the same area, which I love. Close to walk downtown and not too far from the Teatro Massimo. Great location for lots of great places to eat nearby.

I like to go longer distances in the day time for lunches etc but have dinner nearby.

Hotel Politeama

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Central Palace Hotel Federico II

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Grand Hotel Wagner

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Grand Hotel et des Palmes

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If you prefer an apartment style place to stay:

Butera28

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staying with the Duchess and a cooking class which includes shopping at the Capo market.

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Things to see and do:

Markets:

Mercato del Capo

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This is a favorite market! I tour it with my groups. There is also the Ballaro' market not too far away.

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Mercato di Ballaro

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This spreads out over blocks, food and clothing and other items!

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Antique Market

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I always manage to find something here. Tiles are a favorite.

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Via Calderai

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This is where you will find all the kitchen things in metal. Off of the main street, the street signs in the area should be in the three languages. Also should find the plaster marzipan molds. If you want a Cassata pan, there are hard to find elsewhere. People regretted not getting them. There probably also are the metal pinchers to make the Cuccideddi cookies or decorate the bread for the San Giuseppe altars.

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Churches and historic sites

Cattedrale di Palermo

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note the stripe on the floor with the zodiac signs. there is a tiny window on the ceiling that at a certain time o the day willl light the floor as a sort of Calendar, hitting which sign you are in,

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Piazza Quattro Canti

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The Four Corners. Fabulous intersection. Seasons, Saints and Kings

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Fontana Pretoria

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This piece was meant for a garden in Florence. The naked figures are infront of what was a convent for nuns. Hence why they call it the fountain of shame. ( don't miss the pastry shop around the corner that was run by the nuns) You have to go upstairs.

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San Domenico, Palermo

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A secret spot to get a foto is from inside the department store next door!

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Massimo Theater

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You may recognize this from a scene in the movie the Godfather, where Sofie Coppola dies after the concert. It's one of the largest opera houses in Europe.

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Figli D'Arte Cuticchios

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The will have the show times posted outside. Loud and noisy, these shows were how they told the history of Sicily. Almost a lost art now.

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Chiesa del Gesù

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insanely beautiful

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Church of the Immaculate Conception

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Another insanely beautiful baroque church.

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Chiesa di Santa Maria in Valverde

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Much of the most beautiful artwork is inside these wonderful churches. You can get an overload though.

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Catacombe dei Cappuccini

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For a lot of people this is creepy, I find it fascinating.

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Palazzo Pretorio

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Starting with the fountain in the piazza, the area is full of wonderful things to see and do. Plan on spending a lot of time here.

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Cappella Palatina

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if your not going to Monreale, this has the smaller chapel in the same style.

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Rooms at the Museum of majolica Genius

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One of my favorite things in sicily are the decorated floor tiles. So oppulent!

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PALAZZO FLORIO- FITALIA / CIRCOLO UNIONE

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This palazzo was owned by the Florio family is not always open. The decorations inside are amazing, this rose petal painted floor and affrescoed ceilings.

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Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri

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Parks

Parco Piersanti Mattarella (Giardino Inglese)

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If you are searching for one of the best things to do in Palermo with kids, we advise going to English Garden Palermo which is full of leafy trees in different colors and really vast grass and flowery spaces, and when you feel a bit tired you may have a seat for a while on one of the available sitting places.

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Parco d'Orleans

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Orto Botanico di Palermo

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Palermo is the capital of Sicily and before the war was filled with villas for the rich and wonderful gardens. This is a beautiful place to get out of the crazy downtown traffic. Don't miss Villa Giulia next door.

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Palazzina Cinese

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Eating

Il Mirto e la Rosa

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Lighter traditional recipes, sometimes with a twist. You do need reservations

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BIGA Genio e Farina

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Just around the corner from the Federico hotel, my driver told me it was his personal favorite. A new spot for pizza.

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Sciampagna

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Prize winning pastry shop.

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Trattoria Piccolo Napoli

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Great family owned restaurant. A favorite with locals. The just opened a second spot as well. Corona Trattoria.

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Corona Trattoria

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I have been going to the Family restaurant Piccolo Napoli and now they have this new place! Can't wait to try it.

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Trattoria Supra i mura

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A personal favorite in the market, hidden behind the stands.

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il Signor di Carbognano (Ruggiero Settimo)

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Gagini

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One of Palermo's best restaurants.

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Casa del Brodo dal Dottore

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They have a large self serve antipasto bar if you want to begin your meal with that. It's not an "all you can eat" like in America. So pace yourself. They are famous for their broth, sort of an old school favorite. If they have the Macco, the fava bean puree as a soup, I adore it, with ricotta on top if possible.

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I Segreti del Chiostro

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An amazing example of what the pastry shops of the convent are like inside! Often the cloisters were not open to the public and you would simply put your money on the moving window stand at the entrance with your order and the nuns, without seeing you, would put the order on the window stand and turn it back out to be picked up.

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Antico Caffè Spinnato

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One of palermos famous pastry shops. They also do savory

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Scjavúru

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This has been one of my go to places now. The owner is so lovely and she really has so many of the typical dishes I adore. She specializes in "slow food" local typical products.

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Bisso Bistrot

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This family had a trattoria in the Vucceria market and awhile back upgraded to this lovely spot.

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Trattoria Typical Siciliana Da Peppe e Franco

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This is another favorite area to eat in and is filled with these lovely tiny trattorias where you can eat outside. I simply listed this one as one of the examples. Most will have a lot of the dishes on display.

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Osteria Alivàru da Carlo Napoli

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Carlo’s family had a olive shop at the market.

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Ristorante Quattro mani

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Suggested by a friend.

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L’ottava nota

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Located right in front of the Duchesses apartments, this is always one of the prefered places to dine. If you are staying at the apartments, you also get a discount.

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Trattoria Al Ferro di Cavallo

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A favorite old school trattoria, “Colorful”

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FUD

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mostly a burger place with funny spelling of how things sound to them in English. Owned by a friend .. he is the king of marketing. nice vegetarian options too. Normally people really like it at the end of the trip! there is one in Catania as well, but you are just there for that one night

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Buatta Cucina Popolana

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This is a place I heard great things about and sent some friends and they loved it! will be going next week!

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Antica Focacceria San Francesco

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Historic restaurant. Famous for the panini with panelle(fried chickpea polenta style slices) or the panino con Meusa( spleen, I prefer the addition of ricotta order “maritata”). The also have full dining.

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Monreale- outside of Palermo on the hill

Monreale

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I really suggest seeing the cathedral with a guide. There is so much to understand to appreciate the work. Also stop and see the cloisters. The back side of the cathedral is drammatic in another way and I like to walk around the neighborhoods around the church as well. Stop and enjoy the town. Have lunch or a snack. Check out the mosaic shops. The ancient art continues.

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Forno Litria

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We always stop here for a snack. Pane Cunzata is a local bread with tomatoes, cheese, anchovies. They also have pizza and sweets! Tables outside to sit, plus water etc available to buy. If you can, peak into the actual ovens where they are baking. The wood burning ovens are fueled with the trimmings from the olive trees.

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Mosaico Arte ed Artigianato

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if you'd like a little piece of the traditional mosaic work. this is a lovely little shop

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Mondello

Mondello Beach

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One of the nice beach towns near Palermo.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Judy Witts Francini

I moved from California to Florence, Italy in 1984, it was love at first sight. First with the city of Florence and then with a Florentine. What I do: Curate Culinary Tours Italian Life Coach Cooking Teacher Market Maven, I now live with my husband and cats in the countryside between Florence and Siena. For the past twenty years, I have designed and accompanied culinary tours around Italy, including Puglia, Sicily, Emilia Romagna, and Venice. This year, I am celebrating 40 years in Italy! Have any questions? Click on the Contact Me button.

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