Sicily | Catherine Fabrizio

Sicily

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Small Towns to Visit

Palermo

Sicily's sprawling, gritty capital, with colorful markets and bustling shopping streets that signal a fun-loving city in regeneration. The worthwhile Monreale Cathedral, just a few miles to the west, makes an easy half-day excursion.

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Catania

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Sicily's second city and de facto capital of the east that's most useful as a transportation hub — but offers a rejuvenated Baroque city center, splashy fish market, hidden Roman theater, and rare-in-Italy WWII museum.

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Syracuse

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Former home to Sicily's greatest ancient Greek settlement, now a modern city centered on the lovely historic island of Ortigia, boasting shabby-chic lanes, a grand Baroque piazza, and a lazy seafront promenade.

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Cefalù

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Fishing-village turned beach-bum village, an hour from Palermo, with a charming old town center, a Norman cathedral, fine seafood options, and an inviting, sandy beach.

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Agrigento

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Town on the southern coast that's home to Sicily's premier ancient attraction: the Greek ruins at the Valley of the Temples, with a fine archaeological museum nearby.

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Ragusa

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The finest of southeast Sicily's picturesque hill towns, with higgledy-piggledy stone homes blanketing two adjacent hilltops.

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Mount Etna

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he most active volcano in Europe (and the top tourist sight in Sicily), offering hikes in a lunar landscape, a steaming summit, and tours and tastings at up-and- coming wineries on its north slope.

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Modica

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Famous for chocolate

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Trapani

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Laid-back port town famous for its nearby salt flats — and an easy home base for day trips to the west coast's best stops: the hilltop village of Erice, fishing island of Favignana, Carthaginian ruins at Mozia, and ancient ruins of Segesta and Selinunte.

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Taormina

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Cushy cliffside resort town with a Grand Tour vibe and picture-perfect views of Mount Etna (and the sea), a dramatic Greek-Roman Theater, and high-end tourists.

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Aeolian Islands

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If you're looking for a unique and thrilling experience, then hiking up to the volcano's crater is a must-do activity. Stromboli is also famous for its black sand beaches and stunning sunsets. Panarea is the smallest and most exclusive island of the Aeolian, with a luxurious vibe and upscale hotels.

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Landmarks

Villa Romana del Casale

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Remote palace deep in the middle of the island boasting the largest collection of Roman mosaics ever found in situ.

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Teatro Antico di Taormina

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The panoramic views of the sea below, and Mt. Etna in the distance, is a visual you just can't forget! My tip: arrive at 9 am when it opens, climb quickly to the top and just take it all in. By 9:30 am the tour buses will arrive, and the whole theater becomes very loud.

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Syracuse Food market

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The Ortigia market is one of the most popular on the island. It’s small, but filled with the freshest food.

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Ionian Sea

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The views are spectacular and the water is the brightest blue. We were even able to jump out for a quick impromptu swim.

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Stair of the Turks

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This is one of Sicily’s most alluring natural rock structures. On the south of the island near Agrigento is the moonscape of Scala dei Turchi (roughly translated to ‘Turkish steps’), a bone-white marl formation that has rippled into a wave-like shape after years of erosion from wind and sea spray. We suggest climbing up the side for the best views of the sparkling indigo sea and flanking sandy beaches.

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Beaches

Torre Salsa Natural Reserve - Visitor Center

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Sand* This unspoilt patch of countryside rolls on to meet a blonde, often an empty stretch of sand flanked by cliffs. There’s no competition for a spot on this gloriously pretty beach, just a smug glance from fellow in-the-know folk you pass. Rosalyn Wikeley

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Scopello

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This sleepy stretch of coast on the northwest side of the island, in the province of Trapani, is rocky and dramatic. It is this place that inspired Homer to write about the vast beauty of Sicily in The Odyssey. Historic tuna-fishing stations dating back to the 13th century dot the area, including the creamy pink museum-meets-inn Tonnara di Scopello. Turquoise and indigo-blue waters flood the surrounding bays, so it’s easy to spend long sun-kissed days stretched out on the rocks. It costs about £7 to enter this beach, but the fee includes access to the museum, a tour and a sun lounger.

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Lungomare di Cefalú

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Just over an hour by train from Palermo, Cefalù is an idyllic spot for all-day bathing. This is a town beach, so it does fill up quickly but its golden sandy crescent blends beautifully with the dusty browns and whites of the historic buildings behind – what’s more, unusually for Sicily, it offers genuine sandy beach, not the typical smooth, oven-hot slab of stone. Explore the narrow roads, little stores and gelaterias for a welcome afternoon respite from hours of sunshine.

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Bue Marino Beach

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On the Aegadian island of Favignana there's a matrix of caves and quarries cut out from rows of golden tuff rocks. Named after the monk seals who used to reside here, Blue Marino is less a beach and more a smooth, stoney surface the locals come to dive off. Head here on a bike (one of the easiest modes of transport on the island) and follow the path to find secret caves to claim for the day.

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Spiaggia di Cala Dogana

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Sun-bleached Levanzo is the smallest of the Mediterranean's three Aegadian islands. This sleepy seaside port is seriously picturesque – a cluster of blue-and-white houses hug the harbour dotted with fisherman's boats. The beach here, Cala Dogana, is off-the-beaten-track and pocket-sized, but warm waters in the summer mean you'll spend more time in them than out.

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San Vito Lo Capo

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At the foot of Monte Monaco (all scribbled in hiking trails) is the tropical-looking San Vito lo Capo. The beach has an almost Brazilian feel with sweeping golden sands that tip gently into bright blue shallows and giant palms, but the vendors who walk up and down all day selling fun floats and ice-cold granita remind sunbathers they’re in Italy.

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Caletta del Bue Marino

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It’s a quick drive along the coast from San Vito lo Capo to Caletta del Bue Marino, an off-radar, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it pebble beach. This pretty cove is relatively undemanding; have a swim, dry off in the sun and head on your way for lunch. Bring trainers to reach the beach from the car, jelly shoes for the caves above the water, and a snorkel for those below its surface.

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Isola Bella

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Known as the Pearl of the Ionian Sea (and for its starring role in the second series of The White Lotus), Isola Bella is a semicircular pebble beach just minutes from the hilltop town of Taormina (via cable car). Rent a sunbed here (neatly lined up, as is often the form in Sicily), and bring a snorkel for the surrounding marine park and its crystal clear waters. The tiny isle, once owned by British gardener, folly designer and pioneering wildlife conservationist Florence Trevelyan, is only accessible from the mainland by a thin strip of sand during low tide, just off Lido Mazzaro.

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Spiaggia dei Conigli

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The isle of Lampedusa (the largest of the Pelagie Islands) is actually closer to Africa than mainland Sicily. Its scorched, bleached and brittle landscape resembles little of that typically associated with the Mediterranean. Here, Rabbit beach, all dazzling white and iridescent turquoise, has kept its unsullied character as part of the surrounding, fiercely protected nature reserve. Only accessible by boat or on foot (wear trainers) the beach is one of the few spots in Sicily where loggerhead turtles lay their eggs. The waters here are positively Caribbean – absurdly blue and gin-clear. There are no cafes or restaurants, so pack a picnic and retreat into the dunes or under a parasol for a castaway-style lunch.

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Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, Ingresso Sud

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Meander along dusty trails, past tumbling greenery and rocky cliffs, to reach the bright-blue waters of Sicily’s first nature reserve. The route is off-putting to some, but it’s worth persevering as only a few locals and parasol-toting visitors actually make it to the beaches. West of Palermo and east of Trapani, the sea here is crystal clear and ideal for paddling throughout the day. There are no shops, though, so come prepared – comfortable shoes, sun cream, Sicilian snacks and lots of water.

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Mondello

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Just a 30-minute bus ride from bustling Palermo, Mondello has a long, half-moon-shaped beachfront with stretches of white sand, colourful sun loungers and city folk cooling off in the waves. It can be shoulder-to-shoulder during the height of summer, when it seems like the entire population of the capital migrates here for ferragosto, but it’s worth visiting for the Art Nouveau waterfront villas and striking rock cliffs that sandwich the shore.

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Alicudi

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The achingly beautiful, painfully shy Aeolian island of Alicudi drifts some 17 miles west. Surreal flashes of blue assault from every angle, luring travellers out from their cool white houses and into the water. While the best beaches on the Aeolians are typically the preserve of the fishermen, Bazzina is a particularly idyllic one easily accessible by boat. The sand is powder white (unusually so for the Aeolians) and tips into balmy, inky blue water, best explored with a snorkel.

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Lido Baia del Tono

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Food

Caseificio Borderi

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Panino

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Sweets

Bam Bar

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Minotauro Pastry Shop

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Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

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Chocolate

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Cafe Adamo

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Catherine Fabrizio

I'm Catherine, and I've spent all 33 years of my life in the vibrant city of Pittsburgh. I recently got married, tying the knot in beautiful Charleston, SC, during the summer of 2022. By day, I'm deeply immersed in the world of finance and accounting, but my heart truly belongs to exploring new places. My husband, an architect with a passion for design, had the opportunity to study abroad in Florence. This allowed him to travel to different destinations on weekends. He also has a unique childhood experience of living in Tokyo for 3 years, which has enriched our understanding of diverse cultures. Our passion lies in those precious 5 weeks of annual PTO, which we use to embark on adventures. We're avid foodies, always on the lookout for delectable treats wherever we go. What's our secret to traveling extensively? I'm a pro at finding the best flight and hotel deals, ensuring that we can allocate more of our budget to immersive experiences, Michelin-starred restaurants, the world's best 50 bars and restaurants, shopping, and collecting art from around the world. Join me on Thatch, and together, we can uncover the art of making the most of our travels. Let's embark on a journey to explore and savor the world one adventure at a time!

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