A day in the Latin Quarter

A day in the Latin Quarter

Matthew Daws
Out of all of the central arrondissements of Paris, the Latin Quarter may be one of the most authentic. What I mean by this is that it combines what makes Paris special, which is to say stunning monuments, beautiful architecture and history at every corner, but still remains a fairly residential part of the city. This guide is designed to be used as an itinerary to the neighbourhood, meaning that you can follow all of the places in the order they are presented in, which should take most of your day. You can also pick and choose which places to visit, to better suit your own planning. I hope you enjoy one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Paris!
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⛪ A Cultural Morning (9am-1pm)

The focus of my ideal morning in the Latin Quarter is culture, including visits to some amazing museums, churches, historical streets, sites and parcs. You can pick and choose depending on how much time you have, it would be quite difficult to do everything in this first section in a few hours, but if you're feeling brave enough, go ahead! I have included some breakfast and coffee spots on here, so that you are not doing all of this on an empty stomach, but the focus on food will be shifted to the afternoon in this guide. 

We therefore begin on the central island of Paris, the Île de la Cité to see what is an icon of the city: Notre-Dame de Paris. 

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
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Set to reopen on the 8th December 2024, despite the fire, Notre Dame still stands tall. A marvel of gothic architecture, a history filled with important figures, tragedies and landmark events, this monument will be sure to amaze you. Its history is too long an complex to summarise here, but just know that the fact it is still standing today despite all of the major events that it has witnessed is nothing short of a miracle. A must see every time you come to Paris.
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Fontaine Saint-Michel
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Although a slight detour from the main events of the Latin Quarter, the far western side of this neighbourhood has the Fontaine Saint-Michel, one of the largest fountains in Paris. Built during Haussmann's renovation of Paris (1853-1870), this masterpiece is built into the front of an apartment building from the same era and just next to the large boulevard Saint-Michel. Though initially planned to represent Napoleon Bonaparte, the controversies surrounding that choice led to showing archangel Michael victorious over the devil instead.
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Rue de la Huchette
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Coming down this once iconic street early in the morning is the smart choice to make, as it is unfortunately one of the worst "tourist trap" locations in Paris today. Filled with low quality restaurants, souvenir shops and normally packed, there are however three things worth seeing. Firstly is the Théâtre de la Huchette, a tiny theatre with only 85 seats that perform the exact same plays every evening, both by Eugène Ionesco: La Cantatrice Chauve at 7pm and La Leçon at 8pm. Both have been performed over 20,000 times. Further up the street you also have Le Caveau de la Huchette, one of the great jazz clubs of the mid 20th century that saw many American artists inside its brick walls. While not open in the morning, it's worth seeing up close and may inspire you to go back later in the evening for a fun night of music. Lastly, don't forget to miss the narrowest street in Paris just next to this main street, called Rue du Chat-qui-Pêche, that used to house a fishmonger whose cat was quite good at extracting fish from the nearby Seine river.
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Shakespeare and Company Café
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After a little bit of walking in the morning, chances are you are in need of some energy. If so, I strongly recommend going to Shakespeare & Company's coffee shop, located right next to the famous bookstore. Though they don't roast their own coffee, they showcase many locals roasters and know how to extract the flavour perfectly. They also have what might be the best view of any café in the city, as Notre-Dame de Paris will be right in front of you.
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Shakespeare and Company
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Now with some newfound energy, it's time to enter one of the best bookstores in Paris, Shakespeare and Company. Originally, this name referred to another iconic bookstore in Saint Germain des Prés, that became a popular meeting place for American authors like Ernest Hemingway, who mentioned it a lot in A Moveable Feast. Though it closed in 1941, a new place called Le Mistral opened in the early 50s, just opposite Notre-Dame. In 1964, to celebrate the 400 year anniversary of William Shakespeare's birth and to pay tribute to the original, it was renamed to Shakespeare & Company. Inside you will find mostly books in English, with Paris being a very obvious theme for many of the works available. On the first floor there is a wonderful used book section with spaces to sit and read, with a cat who has made that floor his home.
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CHANCEUX Galande
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Down the very picturesque Rue Galande, Chanceux is the perfect place for a spot of breakfast. Serving coffee from the roaster Muda, this small café will also provide you with many delicious baked goods, breakfast style sandwiches, juices and more. Don't forget to check out the view of Notre-Dame from the top of the street, which is my personal favourite.
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Sorbonne Chapel, Richelieu Tomb
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It is impossible to walk around the Latin Quarter of Paris and not take a look at arguably the most important structure in the neighbourhood: the Sorbonne. Founded under the reign of Saint-Louis in the 13th century by Robert de Sorbon, a theologian, this was at the time a place to study theology. It was part of the greater University of Paris, which back then was one of the most important places of study in Europe. This is also where the neighbourhood gets its name, as Latin was the main language being spoken both inside and outside the college. The chapel you can see from the Place de la Sorbonne, initially a place for prayer for the students, but was deconsecrated in 1905 under the law on the Separation of the Churches and the State. It is also the burial place of the Cardinal de Richelieu, one of the most important figures of 17th century French history.
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Musée de Cluny
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When you approach the Cluny museum from the outside, you'll be able to observe a wonderfully preserved 3rd century Roman bathhouse. This is one of the rare ruins that we still have from this ancient chapter of Paris' history. But once you go inside, you'll be greeted by the national medieval museum of Paris. If you're a fan of medieval art (like The Lady and the Unicorn tapestry), the Hundred Years' War or just want to see a stunning structure from antiquity, don't hesitate to come in here.
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Jardin du Luxembourg
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Although not technically in the Latin Quarter, the Jardin du Luxembourg parc is worthy of a slight detour to visit. Not only is it a lovely parc, where you can spend some time reading or people watching, but it has some noteworthy landmarks you can check out. The largest would be the the Palais du Luxembourg, where the French senate resides today. This building dates back to the 17th century and was built under the request of Marie de Médicis (wife of Henri IV and mother of Louis XIII), as a place to live outside of the Louvre palace. She would be exiled by her own son shortly after it was completed. The gardens also house a number of statues, most notably a collection dating back to 1843 representing the Queens of France and Famous Women.
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Rue Soufflot
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Named after the architect of the Pantheon that stand tall on the same street, this used to be the bustling centre of the Gallo-Roman city of Lutetia. Lying perpendicular to the old cardo maximus, the old North-South street now called the rue Saint-Jacques, this was the heart of trade, religion and civic duties: the forum. The traces of what once was the most important place in the entire city was lost to us during the middle-ages, but rediscovered by the archaeologist Théodore Vacquer during Haussmann's renovation of Paris in the 19th century. Unfortunately there isn't much to see of its previous glory days, a mere fragment of a wall is visible in the car park, so you will have to use your imagination here, as is sadly the case with most Roman history in Paris.
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Rue Saint-Jacques
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This street may not seem like much today, despite the fantastic view you get of the Sorbonne university from it, but it was once the most important street in all of Lutetia, the Gallo-Roman name of Paris. Every major Roman city had what was called a cardo maximus, which was the main street that was built on the north-south axis. Because of its importance, it will come as no surprise that many important buildings centred on daily life, like the thermal baths (now the Cluny museum) and the forum, which lies on top of the hill that the street leads to. When reaching the top of the Sainte-Geneviève hill, take a moment to look down and picture how everything must have looked almost 2000 years ago.
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Panthéon
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Walking up the Rue Soufflot from the Jardin du Luxembourg, you will find yourselves staring at one of the most interesting buildings in the city: the Panthéon. Initially built as a church dedicated to the patron saint of Paris, Sainte-Geneviève, it was completed in 1790, in the midst of the French Revolution, when the Church wasn't the most popular institution around. What happened afterwards was a vote at the newly founded National Assembly, that changed its function to a mausoleum, to honour people who had done great deeds for the nation of France. Although it was reused as a church a couple of time in the 19th century, the burial of Victor Hugo there in 1885 cemented its use, and it has been used as a mausoleum ever since. Some notable people to be buried there are Pierre Curie and Marie Curie, Josephine Baker, Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, Voltaire and Rousseau. There are many other interesting things to see in the building other than the crypt, such as the Foucault Pendulum, a series of paintings on Sainte-Geneviève, and of course the amazing architecture of Jacques-Germain Soufflot.
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Church of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont
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Across the street from the Panthéon is a church that lives in the shadows of it's larger neighbour, but has a fascinating history to offer. This church was the starting point of many processions to Notre-Dame de Paris and back in order to carry the shrine of Sainte-Geneviève, which contained her relics. When the revolution broke out, many religious artefacts were destroyed or recycled for other uses, and the gold covered shrine was melted in 1793, while the precious stones were also removed. But that's not where they stopped, then burning her remains and throwing them in the Seine river. Today, in the shrine that lies in the church, there are meant to be a few of her remains that were miraculously saved in various other locations and escaped the destruction of the revolution. Not only do you get to see the shrine here, but it is also a beautiful church with a stone carved rood screen, making it quite unique in Paris.
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🧀 A Food Focused Afternoon (1pm-4pm)

After a long morning of intense history and learning, it is time for a more relaxed afternoon where food enters the conversation.

🍽️ Lunchtime (1pm-3pm)

Grab lunch at Bonvivant, a local bistro where you will lose your sense of time eating and drinking French classics, surrounded by the background noise of good table conversations. 

Bonvivant
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A "bon vivant" is a French expression used to describe a person who loves to eat, drink and live well, and this kind of person would definitely feel at home at this hidden gem in the Latin Quarter. Here you will find everything a French food lover puts a high priority on: pâtés, terrines, cured sausages, pork chops, ribeye steaks, mashed potatoes and more. A great selection of natural wines is always on hand to wash down all of the French classics that you will be indulging in. I would advise vegetarians to stay away from this place as the options will be extremely limited.
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🧺 Food Shopping (3pm-4pm) 

Off the heels of a lovely lunch, shopping for more food might seem like a bit too much, but my mother always said never shop on an empty stomach to avoid impluse buying, so maybe this is the perfect time to do so. Below you will find a cheese store, a bakery and a lovely grocery store to stock up on food and beverages for your hotel, Airbnb or just to take back home. 

COW - Cheese of the World
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With one of the most genius names that I've seen recently, COW also delivers as one of the greatest cheese stores in the city. Not only will they have an amazing selection of French cheese for you to pick from, but they also, as the name suggests, have cheese from all around the planet. There are many lesser known cheeses, like English fresh goat's cheeses, American washed rinds, Spanish bloomy rinds and Nepalese yak cheese to be discovered. They also have some very creative French cheeses, such as a goat's cheese that has a washed rind, giving it the intensity of a Maroilles or a Munster, which you won't find in many other places.
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Le Boulanger de la Tour
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Le Boulanger de la Tour is a bakery created by the Tour d'Argent, the oldest hotel in Paris and also a Michelin starred restaurant, next to which it is located. Everything here is super classic, but perfectly executed. Sourdough baguettes, lemon tarts, croissants and millefeuilles are made exactly as you would expect them to be, but better than in most places. What I love about this place is that it is also a way to taste the expertise of an establishment with an incredibly high standard without breaking the bank on a tasting menu.
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La Petite Epicerie de la Tour
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Another store under the Tour d'Argent name, this place is one of the nicest grocery stores you'll see in Paris. Pâtés, foie gras, artisanal condiments, high quality oils can be purchased here, and most importantly, a lovely wine selection. Perfect for purchasing gifts for friends and family.
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🌲 A Nature Break (4pm-6pm)

The Latin Quarter is blessed with some of the most beautiful natural areas of the city, with the Jardin des Plantes and the gardens of the Grande Mosquée, where the plant diversity is unmatched anywhere in Paris.

Before heading to these natural havens, it is the perfect time for the last coffee break of the day, and there is no better place than Strada, my favourite coffee shop in the neighbourhood. Amazing coffee and delicious sweet treats, grab everything to go and head straight to the Arènes de Lutèce, one of the most interesting parcs on the left bank. 

Strada Café
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A great place for a savoury breakfast or a cup of speciality coffee, this location of Strada is my favourite. Full of light, the incredibly friendly staff will be sure to inform you on everything they have on offer, including the wide array of Parisian coffee roasters they showcase. One that they quite often have on hand is Fève, a real star of the Parisian coffee scene and one that you have to have while staying here.
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Arènes de Lutèce
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If you're a fan of the Roman Empire and want to see the extent of their influence in France, then I'm afraid Paris will disappoint. Places like Arles and Nîmes, in the southeast of France have a lot more to offer for this historical time period. Despite this fact, one of the rare remains you can see is the Arènes de Lutèce, which translates to the arena of Lutetia (the Roman name for the city of Paris), and dates back to the 2nd century. It was once used to stage gladiator combats but also theatre, but lost itself to the ever growing city during the middle ages, being built over. It was only rediscovered during Haussman's renovation of Paris (1853-1870), and further renovated in the early 1900s, to the point of being almost entirely rebuilt. Therefore most of what you can see isn't exactly from Antiquity, but it is nonetheless a lovely park where you can try and picture what it was like to live in Gaul under the rule of the Romans.
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Jardin des Plantes
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While not the largest park in Paris, the Jardin des Plantes can at least boast as having the most diverse and vibrant display of plants, as it is the botanical garden of Paris. Also home to the Natural History Museum, a menagerie, and many greenhouses, this is an ideal area to come to during the spring and summer time to enjoy a break from the noise of the city. Built under the rule of Louis XIII in 1635, it's initial purpose was as the Royal Garden of Medici,al Plants, but it also was the stage for many lectures in the sciences. Over the years, it became a place of study for plants from all around the world, which to some extent is still one of its main functions today.
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Grande Mosquée de Paris
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While the Grand Mosque of Paris, built in 1922 to commemorate the fallen Muslim soldiers that fought for France during World War I, still serves as the largest place of worship for Parisian Muslims, it is also home to a fantastic tea room, hammam (for women only) and incredible gardens. Stunning tile floors, beautiful fountains and palm trees will greet you while strolling around their courtyard, before choosing to relax with either a massage or a cup of mint tea.
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 🍷 It's Apéro Time! (6pm-9pm)

There are few things more important than the apéritif in France. Designed to open your appetite in preparation of the meal ahead, they are a fantastic occasion to socialise with friends around a bottle of wine, a pint of craft beer and some delicious charcuterie. In the Latin Quarter, there is only one place you should be for all of this: the Rue Mouffetard. 

This is the social hub of the neighbourhood and will be starting to get quite lively by this time of day. Brewberry is a great option to satisfy beer and wine lovers alike: they have some of the best craft beers options in Paris while having some very nice wine choices. 

Rue Mouffetard
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Rue Mouffetard is THE nightlife street of the left bank, and one of the oldest in the capital, dating back to sometime between the 3rd and 4th century. Being close to the universities of the Latin Quarter, it is a lively place past 6pm where students and professionals alike gather to relax with a beverage or some food. If you happen to be in this area as evening settles in, you can just stroll down the street and wander into any place that tickles your fancy!
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Brewberry Bar
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In a country where wine culture is dominant compared to other beverages, it is refreshing bars that focus on high quality craft beer. This is exactly what Brewberry Bar offers, along with a variety of Peruvian snacks like roast chicken or Aji de Gallina. The beers' origins vary wildly from France to Czechia, but they change them on a very regular basis so go with the bar staff's recommendations. A guaranteed evening of fun awaits at Brewberry.
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🥙The Dinner Dilemma (9pm-12am) 

Depending on how much fun you've had at the bar previously, you may want different options for your dinner. I've provided two extremely differents types of food for the last meal of the day: delicious crêpes that will satisfy any "drunk food" craving you could have, or a delightful restaurant that specialise in steak and chicken. 

Au P'tit Grec
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It might sound strange that possibly the best crêpes in Paris are made in a place that references Greece in their name, but here we are. Au P'tit Grec is a Rue Mouffetard institution that serves a variety of savoury and sweet crêpes in a street food setting. These are quite different to the crêpes that you would find while travelling to Brittany. Their secret? High quality and fresh ingredients, simple fillings and generous quantities. The prices are as low as the food is good, so don't hesitate to try grab a crêpe, especially after a night of drinking in Rue Mouffetard.
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La Côte ou la Cuisse
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The rib or the thigh. A very self explanatory name that tells you exactly what to expect here: prime rib or chicken thighs. Just a few minutes away from the picturesque Place de la Contrescarpe, La Côte ou la Cuisse focuses on only a few dishes, and make them extremely well. The chicken thighs are deboned, stuffed with bell peppers and roasted until extremely tender and juicy, while the prime rib is simply grilled until rare. Equally delicious on the beef is the sauce that is served with it, very reminiscent of the Relais de l'Entrecôte version, but with the advantage of not having to queue for hours before being shown a table.
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All that's left to do now is to head back to where you are staying, knowing that you've made the most of one of the most local and culturaly dense neighbourhoods in Paris! 

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Matthew Daws
Food Tour Guide 📍 Paris Bonjour everyone! I'm Matthew, a Paris based food tour guide, food history writer and generally curious mind whose passion is finding the best places in Paris to eat, drink, visit, learn, and share them with everyone. Although I was born in England, we moved as a family in 2001 to the beautiful city of Reims, in the heart of the Champagne region. I've been fully immersed in French culture for the majority of my life and that's what I want to share with all of you! History, architecture and art are things that are very important aspects to how I travel and learn about other culture, but food is the most important to me. It leads to key insights to understand new cultures, but it also allows you to step out of your comfort zone, try new things and meet new people. And let's not forget that it is delicious as well! It also happens to be my favourite way to showcase my home country of England, and my adopted country of France! Be sure to check out my website (https://www.matthewdaws.com/) to read more about French food history and read my thoughts about certain foods and cultures. A bientôt!
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