A Stress-Free Èze Day Trip
This exquisitely preserved village has been inhabited since ancient times, preserving countless layers of history. Every corner of the narrow streets, which resemble a scene from a fairytale, begs to be explored.
How to get there
Situated in an incredibly irregular landscape that stretches from the beach to over 400 meters above sea level, Èze is very close to Nice—just 12 km away. The village of Èze is on the highest point, while the train station is next to the ocean and is named Èze-sur-Mer (or Èze-Bord-de-Mer). So if you take the train, there’s a steep and demanding climb waiting for you: the hike up the Nietzsche Path from Èze-sur-Mer. It’s definitely a workout, taking about 1.5 hours, but it’s doable if you’re up for an adventure. Just don’t forget to bring good shoes and water!
Generally speaking, though, it is best to go directly to the village. For that, the bus seems to be your best option—in theory. You should be aware of a few things before taking the bus to Éze in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. First, let me briefly explain how much buses cost along the French Riviera:
Buses in the French Riviera
A normal trip costs 1.70€ and includes unlimited one-way transfers for 74 minutes. However, you need a rechargeable card, which you can buy and recharge on the machines at the tram stops. The card costs 2€ (if you have an Android phone, you can use the free TramTix app to buy your tickets and save that money). There are no machines at bus stops though, and buying the card plus the ticket on board is slightly more expensive (4€ total instead of 3,70€).
The same card can be used by multiple people, so everyone in your group can use it. Just make sure to load enough travels and validate the card the correct number of times when you board. If you load your card with more than 12 trips, they are slightly cheaper (1.50€ each).
You can also load a 24-hour pass for 7€, a two-day pass for 13€, or a week pass for 20€, but in that case each person will need their own card.
Should you take the bus to Èze? Here’s what you need to know first:
Bus 82 departs hourly from Nice to Èze village, with a limited schedule on Sundays and holidays. However, the buses get absolutely full extremely fast. It is possible that after an hour in line, you will not be able to enter (the number of tourists who casually skip the line is nerve-wracking) or you will have a very uncomfortable ride (it is a short ride, but it is on a winding road, and you will probably have to stand on a packed bus). If you get motion sickness, it can be a challenge.
After trying this (on a weekday in April, it wasn’t even high season), I was denied entry to the bus because it was too full, so I called an Uber, which I recommend! It wasn’t that expensive (around 20€ and it takes 4 people); it was much more comfortable, and that way I was actually able to enjoy the scenic drive. In less than 15 minutes, I was in Èze! I actually arrived before the tourists that had skipped the line in front of me to enter that stuffed bus (don’t worry, I didn’t laugh on their faces).
If an Uber doesn’t work for you for some reason, the bus will take you there too, of course. Just keep these points in mind and be prepared to arrive at the bus stop early. I did manage to enter another bus on that day to leave the village (same bus that had connection to Monaco). Furthermore, it was extremely full, making it amusing but obviously not very comfortable. But since I was going somewhere else, this bus did not go back to Nice; I doubt I could have boarded a bus to return to Nice; those were even fuller.
Another option that I don’t recommend for this daytrip (and for the whole south of France) is driving, since parking near the village is very limited.
When to visit Èze
The weather in Èze is generally pleasant throughout the year, but it can get extremely hot during the summer months. Besides that, the amount of people visiting the village during the high season may also become a challenge. As you may have noticed by what I wrote above about the buses, there's a lot of people wanting to visit this place (I don't blame them; it's definitely worth visiting), and the village isn't that big, so it may get very crowded during the summer months.
If that's the only time you can visit Èze though, don't give up! Simply keep this information in mind so that you can better plan and manage your expectations. Another important point to remember is that, because the village is all about strolling up and down cobblestone streets, comfortable shoes are required whenever you visit.
What to see
Walking through Èze is an experience, with postcard-perfect moments around every corner! As you stroll through the village, take the time to peek into the artisan shops, which offer everything from perfumes to pottery.
This is the place with the absolute best views; you simply cannot miss it:
How much time do you need in Èze?
Since it can get pretty hot in the early afternoon, I suggest going to the garden as soon as you arrive in the village and then exploring the village itself. You will probably want to spend enough time exploring the garden and village, taking in the scenery, and sitting down to relax. Plan to spend at least 3 to 4 hours once you arrive.
Because of the village's small size and the scarcity of lodging options (unless you want to blow your budget at the opulent Chèvre d'Or), I only suggest Èze village as a day trip from Nice.
Where to eat
You may wish to visit some of the village's quaint cafés, but you will likely spend the majority of your time in the garden, where there are no food options, and walking around a lot. So I recommend packing some snacks. I made a stop at Cours Saleya in Nice before leaving for Èze. I bought food there, including a bag full of delectable pastries, and I really enjoyed eating it while taking in the breathtaking views of the ocean!
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