In the morning
Take a short journey away from the city centre to find out how Jacobite dreams came to a brutal end in April 1745 upon Culloden Moor. Then step back even further in time to discover stone structures from our Bronze Age past.
Culloden Battlefield
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How would things be different if Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobite army had triumphed at the Battle of Culloden in 1746? It's a question often speculated upon by historians, tour guides, and also visitors to the bleak battlefield. Who knows what would have happened if the Prince was victorious and seized back the British crown that he thought was rightfully his? What we do know is that the hopes of Jacobites ended in disaster in a little under 45 minutes on the moorland a short distance from Inverness.
The battlefield is a short 15-minute drive from the city centre with an on-site car park (charges apply) adjacent to the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre. There is a regular bus service (Number 27 towards Tornagrain) that takes under half an hour and will drop you at the entrance to the battlefield.
Before heading into the visitor centre, take a while to look at the clan crests and other inscriptions on the slabs leading to the visitor centre. If you have Scottish heritage you might find your clan represented amongst those providing financial support for the building of the visitor centre in 2007.
You could spend many hours reading all the excellent information within the visitor centre. It very carefully gives the perspective from both sides of the Jacobite uprising using written accounts from the day of the battle and the immediate aftermath. I recommend heading to the 360-degree immersion theatre to experience what it might have been like at the centre of the battle, as both Jacobite and Government forces hurtle across the battlefield towards you. And you can get a close look at the weapons used during the battle alongside other artefacts from that time.
Allow plenty of time to explore the battlefield itself but first orientate yourself by heading up to the visitor centre roof-top observation deck to look out across the moor (access from outside). The blue flags in the distance represent the Jacobite frontline. The Government forces positioned themselves along the line of red flags closer to the visitor centre. You'll see the Memorial Cairn (erected in 1881) dominates the vast flatness of the moorland. Besides it you will find the Clan Markers commemorating those clans that fought alongside Bonnie Prince Charlie. Before leaving take a closer look at the small thatched cottage standing at the edge of the battlefield. Leachan Cottage wasn't there at the time of the battle but it is similar in style to those buildings that were there.
Good-to-know
- If you have Scottish heritage you can ask the staff at the visitor centre what clan your family may belong to, if they fought at the Battle of Culloden and where they would have done so.
-You don't need to visit the National Trust visitor centre to walk around the battlefield. The battle site is open access throughout the year meaning you can visit whenever you like. I recommend visiting in the evening when the crowds have gone. It is likely you'll have the battlefield to yourself, other than a handful of visitors and local people walking their dogs or out for an evening stroll. There are marked bays between the visitor centre main gates and the road. Make sure you park in these spaces as the main gates are locked shortly after the visitor centre closes.
Don't miss
Take a look at the visitor centre wall beside the paved path that leads to and from the battle site. You will see there are raised bricks along its length. Find the spot where there are no raised bricks (nearest the visitor centre entrance). With your back to the wall look to the left. Each raised brick represents a Jacobite solder who died during the battle. To your right shows those Government soldiers that lost their lives.
Recommended time: 3 hours
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Follow in the footsteps of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites with this new audio tour around Culloden Battlefield. Discover more about one the most famous battles that took place on Scottish soul as you explore the battlefield at your own pace with this VoiceMap audio tour.Β
Join me as I explain what happened during the battle and debunk some of the myths that you will still hear about Culloden today. Choose to take the tour at a time that suits you. Maybe first thing in the morning before the tour buses arrive, or in the early evening as the sun sets over the battlefield. You can even enjoy the tour when the visitor centre is closed!
Clava Cairns
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Nestled amongst a small glade of trees you will find the burial chambers and standing stones that make up the Clava Cairns. The whole site wouldn't go amiss in an episode of Outlander. In fact, author Diana Gabaldon has said that this is exactly the sort of place that would have inspired the fictitious Criag na Dun, where heroine Claire Randall goes back in time to the Jacobite era. How appropriate, as the Clava Cairns is close to Inverness where the opening scenes of the first Outlander novel are set.
You walk back over 4,000 years to the Bronze Age as you meander through the archaeological remains. The burial cairns, their entrance passageways, and surrounding standing stones all seemingly align with the midwinter sunset. We can't be sure why, but it is clear this landscape was important for ritual and spiritual events. These structures would have taken a huge effort and a large number of people to construct. The experts suggest it's a site where high-ranking important individuals were laid to rest.
Recommend time: 30 minutes
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For lunch
Simpsons
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A local garden centre may be a strange recommendation for a lunch stop. However, Simpsons is a local institution with people from across the Inverness area heading here for a quick lunch or more leisurely afternoon tea.
Try the Cullen Skink it's tasty and filling, particularly good for a chilly day of sightseeing.
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In the afternoon
Time to explore Inverness...
Inverness Museum and Art Gallery
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Inverness Museum and Art Gallery may be hidden away in an ugly building just below the castle but once inside you will discover a first-rate museum with a strong focus on local history.
There is a fine selection of complete, and partial, Pictish stones, from the tribal society that once dominated Scotland. Unsurprisingly, as we are so close to Culloden, there is a strong emphasis on Jacobite history.
Recommended time: 90 minutes
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Take a stroll
The city centre is small enough to walk around and see all the major sites. Head down to the riverside for a stroll along the banks of the River Ness. If you want to find out about local history and folklore you can buy and download my GPS-triggered audio tour available from VoiceMap.
GPS-Triggered Audio Tour available from VoiceMap
Ness Islands sit in the middle of the River Ness they are connected by a series of small footbridges. A popular place for both residents and visitors to walk. A short distance from the islands you will find the Inverness Botanic Gardens.
Inverness Botanic Gardens
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An unexpected haven just a short walk from the city centre via the river promenade and Ness Islands. Great contrast between the hot, humid tropical house and the dry, arid cactus house. The gardens have a good cafe offering light lunches and home baking.
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Food and drink
There are lots of places to eat and drink in Inverness. You will find some of the best places along the riverside or on Church Street. Many places provide live music throughout the week and at weekends so you can enjoy some traditional Scottish music and craic.
Black Isle Bar
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A popular place to eat because of the stone-fired pizzas using ingredients from their organic farm a few miles from Inverness. It's not just pizza on the menu with other great choices. And all of this can be washed down with a pint of their own organic beer brewed just over the water on the Black Isle.
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The Castle Tavern
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Just a stone's throw from Inverness Castle this is a popular pub serving real ale and classic pub grub. It's an award-winning family-run pub with a good seating area outside. And it's sat at the end of both the Great Glen Way and the North Coast 500 so you can toast the end of your travels.
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River House
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Chef proprietor, Allan 'Alfie' Little's motto is "Keep it simple and let the ingredients do the talking". It's a wise mantra when you have the bounty of the Scottish oceans available for your kitchen. There's no messing around with these ingredients as many chefs are tempted to do. As a result, you get the best shellfish and seafood available in Inverness.
Every day in the late afternoon there is an 'Oyster Hour' with Scottish oysters on special offer. It's the perfect opportunity to indulge yourself or maybe try your very first oyster. Let's hope it's one of many.
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The WaterFront
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In gold letters outside, the Waterfront proclaims 'home cooking.' And this gastro pub delivers home cooking at its best. Specialising in Scottish seafood and game cooking these are hearty and tasty dishes that will fill you up after a busy day sightseeing.
It might be a short walk from the city centre, along the banks of the River Ness, to reach The Waterfront but don't be fooled this is a popular dining destination. You will need to book in advance to make sure you get a table particularly if there is live music at the same time. This is my favourite place to eat in Inverness.
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Something to try
Cullen Skink is a hearty Scottish soup, similar to a fish chowder. It is a creamy combination of smoked haddock, potato, and onion. You'll find it on menus across the country. In some parts of the world, a "skink" is a type of lizard. Don't worry no lizards are used in the making of this delicious soup. The rather odd name is thought to come from the Gaelic word for 'essence' combined with the small fishing town where the dish was first cooked.
The Highlander
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Since bursting onto the live music scene, Inverness' newest live venue, has proved hugely popular. What's the reason? Great live music every evening! It claims to be the only venue in Scotland offering live music seven days a week with free entry every night. As a result, it's now styled as the home of traditional live music. My top tip is to try a dish of their tasty cranachan.
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Hootananny
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This family-run business has won multiple awards as a pub and live-music venue. Downstairs you'll hear grassroots trad music. Whilst upstairs on the Madhatters Stage there's an eclectic mix of indie, hiphop, ska and rock.
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MacGregor's
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A winner of the best bar and best music bar in Scotland, Macgregor's is the closest you'll get to a Ceilidh House in the traditional sense. It's a gathering place to be with friends and make new friends; to share stories over a drink whilst enjoying the live music. I recommend booking a table in advance if you want to be sure of a place. It's also home to the Highland Malt Whisky Experience."
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The Malt Room
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The Malt Room is hidden away down a small alleyway off busy Church Street in Inverness. Many will pass by the entrance without realising that an Aladdin's cave of malt whisky is so close by. The Malt Room is tiny. It is a room after all!
This small whisky tasting venue was crowned Whisky Bar of the Year at the Scottish Bar and Pub Awards 2021. And you will understand why when you experience the warm atmosphere and benefit from the expertise of the knowledgeable staff. My recommendation is to try one of the whisky flights accompanied by tasting notes describing the characteristics of each dram.
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The Weather
βYou can experience four seasons in a dayβ is a classic Highlands saying which sums up our weather conditions. Our weather is predictably unpredictable. No matter the time of year you travel the golden rule is to pack layers, including a waterproof coat, a sweater and an umbrella.
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