The Zest Layover: 48 Hours in Roma
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The Zest Layover: 48 Hours in Roma
Livio Colapinto - Zest of Italy
This is a carefully chosen collection of trattorie, gelaterie, pizzerie, street food spots (and a few others) where the city’s essence comes alive on the plate. These are the places where tradition reigns, yet occasionally mingles with a fresh, modern approach, creating something both timeless and exciting.
Picture lively markets where you can grab a perfectly crisp supplì, pizzerie that craft the ultimate Roman-style crust, and trattorie where amatriciana and cacio e pepe are served with the warmth of a family meal. Imagine sitting at a table where the chefs honor recipes handed down for generations while fearlessly adding their own touch, creating a blend of authenticity and innovation.
These aren’t just places to eat—they’re places where passion, tradition, and a bit of creativity meet. This guide is about uncovering the most genuine flavors, heartfelt welcoming, and those magical spots that will leave you feeling like you’ve found a home away from home in the Eternal City.
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Ristoranti
1. Il Pagliaccio
Il Pagliaccio
@livio
Hidden along the cobbled Via dei Banchi Vecchi, you will find Il Pagliaccio, an experience that rewrites the rules of Roman fine dining. Step through the unassuming entrance, and you’ll find yourself in a sleek, intimate dining room where every detail, from the navy walls to the elegant lighting, whispers understated luxury.
At the helm is Chef Anthony Genovese, a culinary nomad who channels his French-Italian heritage and global adventures into dishes that feel like miniature works of art. The menu? A globe-trotting masterpiece. One moment you’re savoring delicate Chinese noodles in yellow tomato broth with razor clams, the next you’re marveling at lamb paired with caviar and sea urchin—a pairing so bold it feels like a dare. And yet, it works.
Even the simpler creations—like shrimp with agretti and coconut—are layered with unexpected flavors and textures, each bite a revelation. This is food that asks for your full attention and rewards you for giving it.
The wine list is a connoisseur’s dream, expertly curated to elevate every dish without stealing the spotlight. Service? Impeccable but refreshingly unpretentious. They know you’re here for the food, and they let it shine.
With tasting menus ranging from four to ten courses (yes, vegetarians are beautifully accommodated), Il Pagliaccio offers a culinary journey that’s as daring as it is refined. At €200–€300 per person, it’s an indulgence—but one that lingers long after the last bite.
Rome may be a city steeped in tradition, but Il Pagliaccio is proof that the Eternal City knows how to innovate. For anyone serious about food, this is a meal you simply can’t afford to miss.
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2. Casa Bleve
Casa Bleve
@livio
Not impressive on the outside, Casa Bleve is a real hidden gem located in a small street of Rome equidistant and 2 blocks away from both Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Occupying the courtyard of a refined 15th-century palazzo with large vaulted ceilings, this restaurant offers an à la carte menu of Italian specialities and is less familiar to tourists crowds.
In fact Casa Bleve is ideal when you start to feel overexposed to rustic Roman cuisine and you urge for an above-average dining experience, quiet, cozy and elegant! The menu reads like a love letter to Italian and Mediterranean flavors. Every dish feels thoughtfully crafted, with ingredients that sing of quality and seasonality.
More of a dinner than a lunch place the artichokes and octopus salad is a must have.
And then, there’s the wine. Casa Bleve’s cellar is legendary, boasting a curated selection of Italian vintages that rivals some of the city’s best enoteche. The service is polished yet warm, striking the perfect balance between professionalism and genuine hospitality.
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3. Il Marchese
Il Marchese - Osteria Mercato Liquori
@livio
Just steps from the Tiber, Il Marchese is where old-world Roman charm meets modern sophistication. Inspired by the iconic Italian film Il Marchese del Grillo, this osteria and cocktail bar perfectly blends the playful opulence of aristocracy with the hearty traditions of Roman cuisine.
The menu is steeped in classics, featuring creamy cacio e pepe, rich amatriciana, and delicately crispy supplì, all made with precision and respect for tradition. The flavors are bold and authentic, yet the presentation is refined—Roman comfort food elevated to another level.
But what truly sets Il Marchese apart is its amaro bar, the first of its kind in Europe. With over 500 labels, the cocktail bar is a treasure trove for amaro lovers and cocktail enthusiasts alike. The Negroni Sbagliato with an amaro twist or the Signature Amaro Sour are absolute must-tries. Whether you’re a seasoned amaro aficionado or just curious to explore its possibilities, the bar is an experience in itself.
The ambiance is an elegant mix of vintage and contemporary, with dramatic lighting, dark wood accents, and playful nods to its cinematic inspiration.
Whether you’re stopping in for a cocktail, indulging in a full Roman feast, or simply soaking in the sophisticated yet approachable atmosphere, Il Marchese delivers an experience that feels both timeless and fresh.
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Trattorie
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Livio Colapinto - Zest of Italy
Ciao,
I'm Livio, co-founder of Zest of Italy - a chef-to-chef advisory and travel company - and The Genuine Experience - original travel concepts that enlighten travelers while uplifting those who host them.
At Zest of Italy, we create bonds, travel, and opportunities for our international community of chefs and food professionals to celebrate farmers, artisans, and the diversity of food.
Born in Torino with Apulian roots to an XXL family scattered throughout the peninsula, after my engineering and economic studies, and an early career in finance, I graduated in Food Culture at the University of Gastronomic Sciences to then work with Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini.
During this time I planned and guided some renowned chefs - Michel Troisgros, Alice Waters, and Giorgio Locatelli - on R&D tours across Italy.
Since then and for over 15 years we have connected Italian food&wine artisans and chefs with food icons of international hospitality, traveling with Nancy Silverton, Michael Mina, David Nayfeld, Paul Kahan, Eli Zabar, Angela Pinkerton, Chad Colby, Craig Stoll and more.
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Digital Map
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31 places
31 hand-picked places with notes from the creator
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