3 weeks in Panama
Getting There
I flew into Panama City to start my trip but it is also popular to cross into Panama from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. If you are already in Costa Rica this is a short and easy way to get to Panama!
There are many shuttles from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica that will take you to Bocas Del Toro for about $40 USD. This will include pickup at your hostel, plus you water taxi to where you are staying in Bocas Del Toro. The shuttle is about 2 hours plus a 45 minute water taxi. This same route can be done in reverse if you are going the opposite direction!
Panama City Skyline from Selina Casco Viej
Rough Itinerary
I spent 2.5 weeks in Panama in total. Here is my rough itinerary
- 3 nights Panama City, specifically Old Town Panama. I spent 2 nights here when I first landed and then 1 more nights before heading to the San Blas Islands
- 3 nights in Santa Catalina. This is a super chill beach town. Not really much going on around here, mostly just surfing, snorkelling or diving
- 6 nights Bocas Del Toro. We actually had 8 nights booked here but decided to go over to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica for a couple night because it was too long.
- 3 nights Boquete, I wish I could have stayed longer here. I absolutely loved it, however we were kind of forced to leave because of some protests that were happening in Panama at the time.
- 3 nights San Blas Islands. Definitely the highlight of my Panama experience!
Casco Viejo (Old City Panama)
Casco Viejo is the historic district within Panama City, known for its colonial architecture and history (fun fact it was attacked by pirates). If you are flying into Panama City and don't want to be amongst the skyscrapers of downtown, then I recommend staying here!
I didn't bother to spend any time in Panama City, I'm not much of a big city person and I found the Old City to have more character. From the Airport I got an Uber to my Hostel which costs about $25 USD. You can also take the public transportation from here if you wish. There is a bus and a subway.
Where to stay:
While in Panama City, I stayed at Casa Magnolia Inn/ Hostel. I really liked the location of this hostel. It was right in the Old City with lots of shops and restaurants nearby.
It is a quieter hostel, but they do have a decent kitchen with free water refills. The hostel also has some nice areas to chill with air conditioning. The staff were also super lovely and very helpful with recommendations and helping us get around the city. Overall very happy with my stay here!
What to do in Casco Viejo:
With our time here we did a walking tour which was nice. Walking tours are always a good things to do as they are cheap/ free and help you get familiar with the city. The walking tour takes you all around the Old City and gives you a chance to learn about some of the history.
If you are someone who is into craft beer, then I recommend checking out La Rana Dorada Casco. It is just up the street from Magnolia Inn and had some great craft beers. They also have pretty good food, its just classic American style pub food though.
One of the most popular things to do/ see while in Panama City is the Panama Canal. You can take a taxi, Uber or the public transit and access it fairly easily. There is also the Panama Canal Museum located in the Old City.
You really dont need much time to explore Casco Viejo, I think the 2 nights was definitely enough time to spend here. If you want to spend more time in the big city then I would recommend spending more time.
Its also a popular to visit El Valle de Anton from Panama City. I met people who had visited as a day trip, as well as people who spent a night or two. Its a popular area for hiking and is a bit cooler than Panama City.
Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is a small, sleepy surf town located on the Pacific Ocean. The main attraction here is surfing, diving and snorkelling but it is also a great spot to relax on the beach and catch some rays. Santa Catalina is fairly popular with tourists but it definitely isn't as busy as other places in Panama, making it a good spot to slow down and recharge.
Getting There:
From Panama City we took the public busses to get to Santa Catalina. This was a long travel day but was actually quite entertaining. I took an Uber from my hostel to the Albrook bus station, then from there got a bus to Santiago, We then had to switch to another bus to Sona. Then from there you can take a bus to Santa Catalina or if you wish, you can take a taxi.
The bus between Sona and Santa Catalina is quite small and crowded. This portion is also pretty bumpy, so if you get car sick easily it might be best for you to take a taxi. The whole travel day was roughly 8 hours or so. I recommend getting an early start, that way once you get into Santa Catalina you have some time to settle in and get some dinner. The public busses are cheap with the whole journey costing about $15.
Where to stay:
While in Santa Catalina I stayed at Hostel Villa Vento. I actually really enjoyed this hostel Its small, has a decent pool and free pancake breakfast. They have good common areas so it was super chill but really social which I enjoyed. They have a little shop connected to the hostel so you can go down and buy snacks and beer if you want.
What to do:
There is a great spot for fresh smoothies/ juices just down the street from Villa Vento on the main street. Its just a little stand where you can buy fruits and vegetables but they will make you smoothies with whatever you want in them. Definitely recommend! They also sell muffins and other pastries sometimes.
A good spot for lunch or dinner is Restaurante El Pacifico or Doña Saby. El Pacifico is a bit more expensive but the portion sizes were much bigger. I ate it for 2 or 3 meals. Both places are pretty classic Panamanian food. Chicken/ fish, rice, beans, salad. Good spots for sticking to a backpacker budget.
There are lots different beaches in Santa Catalina, couple of them are within walking distance. To get to other farther ones you will have to sort out a ride, taxis are scarce, but its pretty common to hitchhike around here. You can rent surf boards at the beaches if you want and there are restaurants nearby if you want to get some lunch.
There are lots of diving and snorkelling companies. However a day of snorkelling is about $80USD. It seemed too expensive for my budget so I didn't do any snorkelling. But the tours take you over to Coiba Island which is supposed to be amazing for snorkelling and diving!
Bocas Del Toro
Bocas Del Toro is a town located on Colón Island, which is one of many that make up the Archipelago. The town is filled with restaurants, bars and shops and the main form of transportation is water taxi. With lots of beaches and great night life, it makes it a popular destination for backpackers.
Getting There:
Getting from Santa Catalina to Bocas Del Toro was a long travel day. From Santa Catalina, you will take the bus back to Sona, and unfortunately from there you have to backtrack to Santiago before switching to another bus to David. From David, you will take a bus to Almirante, and from there a water taxi over to Bocas Del Toro. The whole travel day took about 12 hours, and cost about $20.
Bocas Del Toro also has a small airport so it is common for people to fly in and out of the island. The airport is walking distance to the main part of town, from there you can wave down a water taxi if you are staying on one of the smaller islands.
Where to stay:
While in Bocas Del Toro, I stayed at Aqua Lounge which is just across the water from the main town of Bocas Del Toro. The water taxi costs $1 during the day and $2 at night.
Aqua Lounge was a decent hostel if you are into partying. They have parties almost every day with DJ's starting around 4:00pm. I did think about moving as it was a little much, but honestly didn't feel like packing my bags. If you want a quieter hostel in the main town, then I recommend "Bambuda Bocas Town."
There are also some other great options on some other parts of the islands if you are looking for a more secluded and chill vibe. Selina Red Frog and Babuda Lodge are also popular and have great ratings!
What to do:
Bocas Del Toro is a pretty popular party sport with tourists. Filthy Friday is a main attraction. Tickets are $40USD which is a bit steep if you are on a tight backpacker budget. Ticket prices include your transportation between locations, free shots at each bar and then you get a shirt, a drawstring bag, reusable cup.
I honestly wasn't really feeling the Filthy Friday party. Partially because I was already deathly hungover, partially because I didn't like being stuck partying until the transportation would take you to the next place, and the drinks were expensive. BUT if you are in high spirits, ready to party and don't mind spending a bit of money on drinks then I would recommend.
Other popular activities while in Bocas Del Toro include taking water taxis to some of the other beaches where you can snorkel, get lunch and hangout for the day. You can book these excursions through your hostel, or if you have a group of people you can go down to the dock and find someone to take you and split the costs.
Some popular day trips are: Starfish beach, Red Frog beach and Zapatilla Island. Prices for the water taxi's vary depending on how far and how many people they are taking. Starfish Beach and Red Frog beach are about $20USD round trip. Zapatilla Island is about $30USD.
If you book through your hostel it is usually a little more expensive but sometimes they include snacks or lunch or some other bonuses. I would just check at your hostel and compare prices and see if you can get a good deal!
Boquete
Boquete is my favourite place in Panama. A city located in the mountains with lush jungle, volcanos and numerous waterfalls to explore, it is a great stop for someone who loves nature! Popular with backpackers looking to do some hiking or catch a break from the heat.
Getting there:
Getting to Boquete wasnt that long of a travel day for me, since I was coming from Bocas Del Toro. If you are coming from Panama City it is a much longer travel day.
From Bocas Del Toro, you will want to take a water taxi to either Almirante or Chiriqui. From here you will have to take either a shuttle or a public bus to Boquete. I had booked a shuttle service that included my water taxi and shuttle from Bocas Del Toro directly to Boquete. The shuttle service cost me $40USD which is quite expensive, but much less hassle.
If you take the public bus to Boquete, you will have to take the bus to David, then from David transfer to another bus that will take you up the mountain to Boquete.
Is you are coming from Panama City, you will do the same. Catch a bus from Panama City to David, and then transfer over to Boquete.
Shuttle bus views :)
Where to stay:
While in Boquete I stayed at La Casa de Doña Cata Hostel. I really enjoyed this hostel. It was super chill, the beds and pillows were comfy, they had a good kitchen and free pancake breakfast and coffee all day!
The location was also great, close to the main areas in town, lots of restaurants and thrift stores nearby, and my favourite place, Boquete Brewing! It is also super close to the bus station so you can walk over to catch the busses that will take you to the waterfalls and other hikes in the area.
What to do:
One of the most popular things to do while in Boquete is the "Lost Waterfalls" hike. This hike is pretty short and fairly easy, it takes you to 3 different waterfalls and takes about 2 hours or so.
To get there, you will go to the bus station in town, which is right behind the central park/ main square. Ask which bus goes to lost waterfalls and they will point you to the proper bus. The bus costs $2.50USD each way and leaves every 45 minutes.
Another popular activity is hiking Baru Volcano or visiting Baru Volcano National Park. Lots of people hike up the Volcano for sunrise, so it is recommended you leave super early in the morning, usually around 2am. Make sure to bring layers, rain gear and good hiking boots. Try and monitor the weather as well as you wont catch the sunrise if the weather is poor.
If you are looking for any hiking gear, sweaters/ fleeces or boots, Boquete has lots of thrift stores and hiking shops where you can find it all. I tragically forgot my hiking boots on the bus and needed to buy new ones here. I checked out a couple stores and ended up buying some for $80USD.
If you are a beer lover like myself, then you have to try Boquete Brewing. They have a great selection of beers from sours to IPA's. They don't serve food but on the weekend they have a food truck! Definitely recommend a beer or two here after a long day of hiking and exploring!
Other popular activities in Boquete include coffee tours, horseback riding, ziplining and river rafting!
I really fell in love with Boquete and definitely could have spent a long time here! I definitely recommend spending at least 3 nights here to anjoy everything this town has to offer!
San Blas Islands
San Blas Islands is an archipelago made up of 365 picturesque islands in the Caribbean Ocean. Located between Panama and Colombia, it is common for backpackers to book boat trips between the two countries. I booked this portion of my trip through a company called San Blas Adventures.
Getting there:
If you book this through a tour group then they will organize all of your transportation for you. Pick up will be in Panama City, so you will be responsible for making your way back to Panama City before the pick up date.
From Panama City, the tour company will pick you up in a jeep or shuttle and drive about 3 hours across Panama to the Caribbean side. From here you will take a boat throughout the islands until you arrive in Colombia.
San Blas tour options
There are multiple different tour companies that offer similar itineraries, but the two most popular ones with backpackers San Blas Adventures and Blue Sailing. Both companies are similarly priced and offer similar itineraries.
There are a couple of main differences between the two. One is that San Blas Adventures used speed boats to get between islands, and you will spend your nights on land. Blue Sailing you will be sailing between islands and sleeping on the sail boat. They also offer smaller group sizes. If you get seasick easily, then I would recommend San Blas Adventures.
Another main difference is that San Blas Adventures ends the tour in Colombia in a town called Capurgana as opposed to Cartagena. Blue Sailing has a 24hr ocean crossing and then docks in Cartagena. That may also waver your choice between the two.
I loved my experience with San Blas Adventures, and heard great things about Blue Sailing, so I don't think you can go wrong with either company. Really just depends on your personal preferences.
Docking in Capurgana
Overall Experience:
The tour of San Blas Islands was one of the highlights of my whole 4.5 month backpacking trip. There were about 18 people in our group, and we all had so much fun over the 4 days we were together. Lots of us ended up travelling together in Colombia and meeting up in different places along our travels.
The food that we got on the tour was also so delicious. The food alone made the price of the trip worth it to me. Fresh lobster, prawns and fish for lunches and dinner and fresh fruit at breakfast and throughout the day. Some of the best food I ate on my trip for sure. Every meal was so fresh and so delicious.
I definitely recommend adding a trip through the San Blas Islands to your itinerary! Even if you are on a tighter backpacking budget, I think this trip is worth the splurge!
Summary:
Overall Panama is a great backpacking location, although on the more expensive side. Panama prices are fairly similar to Costa Rica, so if you are coming from other Central American prices like Guatemala or Nicaragua, be prepared to spend some extra money,
I think 2 weeks is enough time to spend in Panama. I wish I could have traded a few night in Bocas Del Toro for more nights in Boquete, but unfortunately it wasnt doable due to some unforeseen circumstances in Panama at the time.
My highlights of Panama are definitely Boquete and the San Blas Islands!
This is just my itinerary and I suggest following loosely. Keep your mind open to trying new things and going to places you didn't even know existed.
If you decide to use my itinerary, or have even read this far, thank you!
Cheers!
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