My fiancée excitedly asked if we could take a day trip to Sweden when we were in Copenhagen. I rolled my eyes thinking: what is there in Malmö that is so worth sacrificing a day in one of Europe's most incredible cities? But alas, happy wife happy life: we visited Sweden.
During our visit I was incredibly surprised at the breadth of activities and experiences to be had in Southern Sweden's Skåne region. Despite being culturally similar to Denmark, it really does feel like a different country: more modern, more ethnic diversity, more Dutch renaissance style architecture, even more coffee and pastries (fika is a Swedish concept after all!). If you are taking a weeklong trip to Copenhagen, spending a day in Sweden is a great way to experience something a bit out of the way and even less touristy.
This guide focuses on three great places to visit in Skåne: Lund, Malmö, and Helsingborg. You could easily combine two of these into one day trip, especially if you are looking for a full day of activities. I've also included a hotel recommendation in each city, just in case you want to extend your Swedish sojourn!
The good news is getting from Denmark to Sweden only gives you two options. The first in the gigantic Øresund International Bridge over the Øresund. The train is conveniently connected via both Copenhagen Central Station and the international airport. Tickets do not need to be booked in advance. The train will first stop multiple times in Malmö before weaving north first to Lund, and eventually after another 45 minutes to Helsingborg. While tickets are relatively expensive (150-250 DKK round trip) the train is very convenient and very easy.
The other way is the scenic long route. Helsingborg is connected to the Danish city of Helsingør via ferry. The crossing is only 20 minutes and costs around 85 DKK one way. While this is economical, it does require you to get to Helsingør, which is an hour from Copenhagen by train. This way is also not helpful if you plan on going anywhere except Helsingborg. However, if you do get the Copenhagen Card (a great way to experience the Capital region!), you get free trains up to Helsingør, making this an interesting way to visit Sweden. For ferry info, please see the link below:
Lund is a perennial favorite for those visiting Skåne. The comparisons to Cambridge are fitting for Lund, given its importance as both a medieval cathedral city and a university town. Today, Lund is more known for its university, widely considered the best in Sweden. However, the town is filled with lots of different places to explore and experience!
From my other guide "A Bakery Tour of Copenhagen":
I know Skåne is in Sweden and not Denmark, but it is just over the large Øresund Bridge. Believe it or not, this region of Sweden was historically part of Denmark; the Swedes will even admit the people in Skåne are basically Danes. When we went to Copenhagen, we spent a day exploring the other side of the bridge in the charming small city of Malmö and the stunning college/cathedral town of Lund. In both of these towns, locals will enthusiastically send you Broder Jakobs to get your pastry fix. Family owned and cozy as can be, Broder Jakobs brings out the Nordic classics - cinnamon rolls, cardamon rolls, delicious breads and scones, and even more. We visited the Lund location, which is occupied by a very academic crowd - a mix of students and intellectuals. The inside features lots of greenery, while the outside courtyard provides an amazing spot to spend a warm summer afternoon. A trip to the Swedish side of the sound is simply incomplete without a stop at Broder Jakobs - a great place to take a traditional Swedish fika, or coffee break!
Probably the star attraction in all of southern Sweden is the cathedral in Lund. The Gothic style cathedral is one of the oldest stone buildings in Sweden, dating back to the 1100's. While the impressive columns and ancient crypt are worth your time, the real standout item is the astronomical clock. Meticulously built in the 1400's, the clock has a 200 year "perpetual calendar" where it dictates the day, the year, and what zodiac is currently in the calendar. Even more impressive, the clock "performs" twice a day, mainly at noon. The performance includes a whole precession to mirror the Biblical nativity (including Wise Men and Shepards and more) and two wooden knights that joust each other (my favorite part). If you go a few minutes before noon, a priest will provide an explanation for people in both Swedish and English
Modern Lund is a university town. The main building is by far the most pretty of the buildings on campus. Built in 1882, the main building offers a great surrounding to imagine you are a student at the impressive institution. Strolling around the campus, you can see some very scenic sites (more similar to an American or British university than a European one). The institution dates back to 1666 and offers lots of history if you are interested
A living history museum with various buildings transported from around Skåne, Kulturen is an interesting attraction. If you are not interested in the museum, two things you should consider. The coffee shop is a lovely place to take fika (the traditional Swedish coffee and pastry tradition). Additionally, the museum is not confined to one site and spills into the public city; the historic houses around this part of Lund are the most beautiful in all the city, so at least a walk near the museum is warranted
Attached to the university, the botanical garden is a lovely place for a stroll, especially when visiting in spring or summer. Completely free and open to the public, it is one of the best green spaces in the city
Both the premier place to stay in Lund and a classic restaurant in the city center, the Lund Grand Hotel is set in a building dating back to 1899. The art nouveau interiors make this a warm and stylish place to stay. The bistro, Gambrinus, is a great place for a sit down meal in Lund as well
Going to Sweden, you'll notice the more lax immigration policies has opened the country up to a slew of more "exotic" restaurants than you would find in Denmark. One of these communities that shape Swedish cuisine is the Iranian one, and Pistachio is the best place for Persian cuisine in Lund. Serving authentic kebabs and other specialties, you are sure to enjoy this restaurant!
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Malmö
Malmö is Sweden's third largest city. Historically, Malmö had a reputation as an industrial wasteland. With industry collapsing in the 1970's and reputation for being "rough", Malmö was a far cry from the uber cool and modern city it is today. With immense amounts of shopping, modern architecture, public art, and unique dining experiences, Malmö is now a city worth visiting.
What food describes Malmö? Falafel probably wasn't your first choice, but in Europe's falafel capital the chickpea fritters are an art form. The best place - in my opinion - to eat falafel in Malmö is Badrans. A little stand in a public park, you'll likely be the only person not speaking Swedish or Arabic in line. The crisp falafel, tasty fries, and smooth hummus served in a combo meal is a right of passage in Malmö. Don't want to go here? Ask any Malmö native their favorite falafel place and you'll get a different answer with a new joint to try
One of the main "sights" in Malmö is the castle, built in the 1530s. Today the castle houses the Malmö Museum, a history and culture museum.
If you are not interested in touring the museum, a walk around Mölleplatsen should not be missed! The part around the perimeter of the castle's moat has wonderful walking paths, gardens, a windmill, and a great escape from the "busy" city!
Malmö and modern are often used hand in hand, and the Turning Torso is the typification of this description. A residential skyscraper, the tower was the largest structure in Scandinavia (until September of 2022). While there is not much to do at this building, this is an excellent area to walk around. The tower is close to the water where you can get dramatic views of the tower, the Øresund, and the large bridge back to Denmark
Lilla Torg is one of a number of old market squares you can find in the center of Malmö. This one is a bit more dramatic as it is flanked by Malmö City Hall. While the square does occasionally hold events, this area is mainly best enjoyed by walking around and exploring the copious shops in the area.
I've talked a lot about fika in this article, or the Swedish art of the coffee break. Lilla Kafferosteriet is one of the best fika spots in Malmö. Situated in a little cottage in the city center, you will find delicious coffee drinks and delicious pastries. Make sure to sit and enjoy the ambience - both inside and in the outside little garden!
Triangeln is a very modern mall. Do you really need to go here? Not really (unless you want to buy something at the Ikea home store to say you went to a Swedish Ikea). However, the walk from center city to Triangeln features a number of cool stores for shopping. The area around Tiangeln is also very much "modern Malmö" with restaurants, cafes, pubs, and parks. Finally, Triangeln is one of the train stops that allow you to go straight to Copenhagen. All in all, it's a good landmark
A "buzzy" restaurant in the city center, Ruth's holds a coveted Bib Gourmand in the Michellin guide! The evening menu leans into Mediterranean flavors with halibut crudo with capers and roasted lamb served over chickpeas taking center stage
Those who know me understand how seriously I take food. So when I tell you I literally cried during my meal at Lyran because it was so good, I think that should speak volumes enough.
Lyran does not have a set menu. The restaurant receives whatever produce and proteins it gets at around 1 PM and crafts an 8 course tasting menu. You will get the option to order vegetarian, pescatarian, or regular. Over the eight courses you will be displayed all sorts of techniques - maybe you will be the Norwegian ling fish brushed with miso and served in a sherry butter sauce that made me tear up. Each meal will be different at this stunning gem. The only constant is the mini mushroom "taco" with parmesiano reggiano served as an amouse bouche. One of my favorite restaurants in the world, I cannot recommend this restaurant enough
Well located in the center of Malmö, this historic hotel has rooms dating back to the 1300's! With a hotel on the site for the last 100 years and even Swedish and Danish kings as guests, the Mayfair Hotel is both stylish and a comfortable place to stay in Malmö
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Helsingborg
A small city up the coast from Malmö, Helsingborg is the third of the cities in this series. One of the most historic cities in Sweden, Helsingborg dates back 1000 years. The city primarily served as a fortress city on the border between Sweden and Denmark. Today, Helsingborg is a a calm, pleasant city filled with historic charm.
The old fortress, Kärnan dates back 600 years. Most of the site was razed by the Swedish king in the 1700's, fearing the Danes knew the site too well for it to be a suitable army base. Today, the tower is restored to its old glory when it served as a bastion in a greater Danish fortress (along with Kronborg [the Hamlet Castle] across the water). The tower features great views of the Helsingborg area.
Situated right at the harbor in Helsingborg, Dunkers serves as a cultural center. Part art museum, part school, part concert venue, part restaurant bistro, there are a lot of various activities going on at this museum. The art museum is a lovely way to spend an afternoon in Helsingborg
Situated 5 kms outside of Helsingborg, Sofiero Palace was constructed in the 1870's. Formerly a Swedish royal palace, the main attraction nowadays are the immaculately septs gardens around the palace. The piece de resistance in the garden is the rhododendron collection, feature 500 different varieties
Would this be a guide about Sweden if I din't include a spot for a fika? Backhaus Bageri is the best spot in Helsingborg for a sweet treat and a coffee. Open since 2012, you can get delicious cinnamon rolls for your fika!
KOL focuses on grilled dishes, including meat and seafood. With different preparation from around the world, KOL is a celebration of the grill. The bar is well known for its gourmet cocktails with hand pressed juices
Situated right down the hill from Kärnan, The Vault Hotel is built on an authentic bank vault from the beginning of the last century. While there is no more money being thrown around, the Vault is the swankiest and trendiest place to stay the night in Helsingborg
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