Known for efficient, high-speed bullet trains, Japan rarely is touted as a road trip destination. . .especially to westerners. But I beg to differ. While most travelers will simply wiz point to overcrowded point via Shinkansen, I've driven practically empty back roads to engaging, off-the-beaten-path towns that utterly charmed me.
Intrigued?
Try this two-week road trip itinerary out of Osaka to Fukusaki, Amanohashidate, Tamba-Sasayama, Miyamachokita, Takao-Jingoji, and Arima Onsen. Each individual drive is less than 2 hours.
1. Rent a car in Osaka mid-morning and head 30 minutes west of the city straight to the Cup of Noodles Factory for a fun few hours. The best part of this experience is creating your own soup mix from the packaging to the ingredients. Total hoot.
Have a super fun few hours creating your own cutom blend of this Japanese-invented, college-student staple. See a replica of Momofuku Ando's workshop and learn about the steps this freeze-dried noodle took to world-wide domination.
Add to
Details
2. Continue the small museum trend as you head west for another hour. The Japan Toy Museum in Koro north of Himeji features folk and handmade toys as well as pre-80s mass produced dolls and games from Japan and around the world. Try your hand at interactive games like colorful spinning tops and Rube Goldberg-like marble mazes.
Surprisingly massive selection of toys packed into 6 small houses surrounded by lovely gardens. Dolls, wind-up toys, blocks, and much more are overseen by a fetching older gentlemen, who roams the grounds demonstrating the more interactive exhibits.
Add to
Details
3. Drive another 10 minute to check into your room at Nipponia Fukusaki for three nights. I highly recommend this amazing hotel chain with locations all around Japan. Set in historic ryokans and renovated farms and factories, these distinctive small hotels feature luxury elements and exceptional dining. Choose the half board option that includes both breakfast and dinner.
Set in historic homes, converted factories and the like all over the country, this chain is truly spectacular. They all differ somewhat, but each have the highest of standards for food and accommodations.
Add to
Details
4. Take your time driving and walking around Fukusaki discovering the works of Kunio Yanagita, the father of Japanese folklore. You'll spot his wacky and culturally insightful sculptures all over town, but a great place to start is the small museum and park next door to the hotel.
Kunio Yanagita and the Matsuoka Family Memorial Museum
Climb up and around this Edo-era beauty of a castle, which is in remarkable shape for something built in the 1600s. But, the grounds and gardens are the best part, so save time to spend plenty of time strolling through the greenery.
Add to
Details
6. On your final day in the area, journey 20 minutes to the glorious Engyoji Temple. Known to westerners as a major filming location for The Last Samurai, this vast Buddhist complex is so much more.
Ride the ropeway up to the mountaintop temple complex and hike through the forest dotted with sculptures and shrines. We visited at the same time as a Japanese middle school trip and got a kick out of the kids practicing their English with us. For the walking challenged, there is a shuttle bus pickup just off the ropeway.
Add to
Details
Fukusaki to Amanohashidate
1. Drive the scenic byways north via Route 312 from Fukusaki to Amanohashidate and Miyazu. It's the longest drive of this itinerary at about 2 hours. Check into one of two accommodations for 3 nights and enjoy your first evening in the onsite onsen (spa). The hotel options below are NOT Nipponias, but they are fine choices and both are walking/biking distance to the famous nearby nature peninsula.
Offering water views, the rooms are comfortable if a bit dated. The onsen is pretty good, and the included breakfast includes lots of options. Rent one of the hotels bikes and pedal over to national park.
A bit higher end and priced to match, this hotel features a more modern onsen and chicer rooms.
Add to
Details
2. After breakfast, grab a bike from your hotel and pedal over to the tiny old town. Stroll through the Chionji Temple, cross over the Kaisen Bridge, and explore the birding, beaches and other nature of Tango-Amanohashidate-Oeyama park.
Lovingly maintained ancient wooden temple with resident cats and striking shrines. Purchase an offering and hang it on the lush fir trees with a wish for the future.
This small, red bridge connecting the peninsula to the mainland looks ancient, but has an advanced hydraulic system underneath, which rotates to let boats pass through. It's mesmerizing to watch and so picturesque.
Essentially a wide sandbar with beaches and marshes, this special spot dissects the Asoumi Sea bay. Pedal the entire length, stopping for bird watching, beach strolling and simply taking in the views.
Add to
Details
3. Grab a late lunch at Kozeni Sushi. Don't expect tuna and salmon at this tiny sushi shop. Nigiri of local mackerel and sardine rule here. The owner may seem cranky at first, but if you engage him with enthusiasm to eat his fresh catch creations, he will warm up and give you extra pours of sake. Truly miraculously silky and delicious fish!
One of the two best sushi places I've ever experienced (the other was in the tiny town of Rausu in Hokkaido). The miso soup was hands-down the richest and most fragrant of my life. The Nigiri plate is simply the day's fresh catch. On our visit the waters yielded horse mackerel, flounder, seabass and sardine. Mind blowing.
Add to
Details
4. Take the chairlift to Amanohashidate Viewland, a ridiculous little amusement park on a hilltop. Savor the fabulous panoramic views and ride the wacky, self-powered sky bike and ferris wheel. Sooooo worth an hour or so and great pics for the 'gram!
While it's mostly about the incredible views, you'll enjoy feeling like a kid again at this teensy, kitschy amusement park. I giggled the whole time.
Add to
Details
5. The next day, take a 30-minute coastal drive to the picturesque fishing village of Ine. The drive itself is truly breathtaking. Spend the day strolling this fetching community, take a boat tour and/or drive an additional 30 minutes to the Kyogamisaki Lighthouse.
Historic wooden homes line this quaint, secluded bay at the Eastern edge of Japan's Tango peninsula. The epitome of scenic with sea gulls soaring low over the water and boats bobbing in the gentle waves.
Fresh and varied seafood and Wagyu beef bento boxes and a welcoming staff make this area staple the perfect stop for lunch. Sashimi options are a standout.
View Ine from the water and feed the seagulls and sea eagles with a bag of crackers. Fun for folks who enjoy close encounters with bird life. Not so fun for eco-purists or those with feathered friend phobias.
If you aren't a boat OR bird person (see above), then an additional drive up to this funky, little lighthouse offers even more gorgeous coastal views across the Sea of Japan.
Add to
Details
Amanohashidate to Tamba-Sasayama
Leave the northern coast and drive back south for an hour and 15 minutes to the central castle town of Tamba-Sasayama. Stay 3 nights at half board and explore the various areas of town. Must see sights include the castle ruins, the delightful old village with its shops and tiny museums, and a tourist-free Inari shrine. And, a major plus, the Nipponia hotel here is spread across historic buildings, including a renovated bankers ryokan, and a former saki distillery. You can't go wrong with any location or room.
Staff service and the dining quality here are off the charts fantastic. The dining room looks out over a zen garden and rooms are large, quirky and lovingly renovated. Set in the heart of town and walking distance to most attractions.
Granted, its not nearly as large as the one in Fushimi, but this Inari shrine is virtually deserted and just as striking with its row of reddish-orange torii gates. Plus, the hilltop location offers views over Sasayama and the distant hills beyond.
An impressive collection of masks and costumes celebrate Noh, a classical form of Japanese dance drama. Buy a combo ticket for this and the pottery museum a few doors down.
I could spend hours in this multi-level shop chock full vintage and modern artisan housewares and accessories. You'll have a hard time deciding what to buy (or more accurately, what NOT to buy) among the multitude of beautiful items. I walked away with a scarf and a hand-painted serving plate.
Cross over the moat (yes, really) and delve into the distant past. Learn about the time of the samurai in the castle museum and walk among the crumbling stone ruins.
The best little cafe in town is a perfect break after shopping and visiting the pottery and Noh museums. Delicious pastries, desserts, coffees and local beer top the menu.
Learn about the historic process of sake production through the lens of this Tamba master producer.
Add to
Details
Tamba-Sasayama to Miyamachokita
Drive the hour and 20 minutes to Miyamachokita. This area comprises the smallest villages and towns in this itinerary. Spend two nights and simply chill the first night after check in. Our Nipponia room here had a Japanese soaking tub and amazing bath products. On the second day, drive the 30 minutes to Kayabuki No Sato and marvel at this ethnographic gem of a town. Spend the day exploring the attractions (see below) of this thatched roof community.
The rooms at this Nipponia are super spacious and more like little apartments. There is no dining room here, so for half-board, breakfast is delivered to your room, and dinner is at a different local restaurant each night. The hosts pre-book and set everything up for you. We had such a special experience here I'd love to stay a week next time!
Nestled in the misty hills along a river, this preserved (and still fully occupied) thatch-roofed village provides a lens into Japanese rural life of yesteryear. Spend a few hours visiting the tiny ethnographic museums and sipping afternoon tea. The residents are welcoming if slightly "over it." Avoid the tour buses by coming early in the day or late in the afternoon.
Tiny workshop and museum dedicated to indigo-dyed fabrics and textiles from around the world. Run by a charming and passionate older gentleman who speaks excellent English.
Take a peak inside one of the thatched roof houses and discover what life was like inside them. Full of furniture and personal and household items from the past, this delightful house museum is the heart of the village experience.
Perhaps my favorite stop in town. This vintage variety store offers modern handcrafted and hand drawn items. I bought an adorable set of locally made stickers here that currently adorn my suitcase.
Add to
Details
Miyama to Takao Jingoji
1. Ask for an early breakfast and a late check-out and get a bit more use out of your spacious room and soaking tub before you leave your final Nipponia. Drive the 12 minutes down to Mokuan noodle shop to "carb up" on delicious udon for lunch.
Fantastic udon noodles in a country full of incredible noodles.
Add to
Details
2. Drive the 30 minutes to Takimatanosekibutsu Parking Lot and hop out for a hike. Follow the signs to the trailhead where you'll enter a forest of giant, arching ferns and animal god shrines that lead to a waterfall.
The falls and babbling brooks are just two of the joys of this easy forest hike. Statues and shrines line the pathways and the setting is absolutely ethereal. We were alone for our mid-afternoon hike and loved every quiet moment.
Add to
Details
3. Continue another 20 minutes down picturesque route 162 until you arrive at Takao Jingoji, a serene, three-temple town northwest of Kyoto. Visit Kozan-ji Temple and Saimyo-ji Temple before checking into your hotel for one night. Save Jingo-Ji Temple for the next morning.
The main building at this temple complex houses historic scrolls, drawings, and artifacts. Shrines and pagodas in a bewitching setting. . .especially in the autumn.
Smaller and less impressive than the other two temples, Saimyo-ji still is a must visit simply for its captivating surroundings, including the Shigetsukyo bridge over the Kiyotaki-gawa river.
Add to
Details
4. Check into your hotel and soak away the kinks of the drive (and hike) in the onsen.
Momijiya Honkan Takao Sansou Mountain Villa Ryokan
The nicer of my two recommended hotels, the onsen quality makes Momijiya the best choice for the area. Rooms are very comfortable, many with views, and the food also is quite stellar. This hotel also features an additional accommodation annex a little bit further from the road. Either is a great choice.
Offering very traditional tatami mat rooms and a cozy, but dated, onsen this hotel is a less expensive, and totally fine, choice.
Add to
Details
5. Eat your hotel breakfast early so you can hike up to Jingo-ji Temple right when it opens at 9:00 am. One of my favorite temple complexs in the entire country, it is an absolute must-visit.
This historic Shingon Buddhist temple on Mount Takao holds several national treasures of Japan and is truly beautiful any time of the year. A long, mysterious staircase, four-story pagoda, multiple pavilions, and fully intact main temple are set among striking grounds.
Add to
Details
Takao Jingoji to Arima Onsen
After your hike up to Jingo-Ji Temple, grab your bags and drive the hour and 40 minutes to spend your final two nights in Arima Onsen. One of Japan's original destination spa towns, Arima is densely packed with boutiques, restaurants, cafes, tea houses and breweries. It also has the cutest little museum ever, the Salt & Pepper Museum (see below). While many accommodations here rank well, my advice is not to spend a fortune on a 4-star hotel, and instead check into Negiya Ryofukaku. While its traditional and a bit dated, it features one of the loveliest onsen settings in Arima. Split your time between relaxing in the onsen and wandering around town. Don't miss the following places.
This ryokan is in a fabulous location just a short walk up the hill from town, Japanese maples surround the hotel and the onsen experience is incredibly serene. The half-board option includes a kaikesi dinner, which means you cook your meat in boiling broth and receive a selection of sides, as well. Breakfast is stellar.
Dedicated to the joys of collecting vintage salt and pepper shakers, this quirky little museum houses dozens of pairs from all over the world. Located above a shop that sells fabulous trinkets and treasures, as well. I bought a tote bag here sporting a cartoon Shiba Inu. I love it!
Just stroll the narrow streets and alleys of town and enjoy the vintage business signs and glowing lanterns in the evening. Pop in and out of specialty food shops and boutiques until your heart's content.
Yes, another toy museum! Lots of mechanical and movable wooden toys, both vintage and new. Dancing figures, automated music boxes, and a collection of nutcrackers will enchant you.
Delicious egg-based custard and puddings made right onsite at this adorable shop. Brown sugar syrup and crumbly cookie layers are options. Rich, creamy and utterly divine.
Add to
Details
Tips & Reminders
1. Japan is left-side driving and an international drivers license in good standing is required for rental. Tip: ONLY a AAA international drivers license is accepted.
2. The legal limit for drunk driving is extremely low in Japan -- even a few beers can tip you over. Plus, the law is zero tolerance. Don't wind up in jail. Be careful and only imbibe once you've reached your destination.
3. Onsens are public or hotel specific bathhouses/spas, with indoor and (often) outdoor mineral water pools of various temperatures. Nicer onsens also include saunas and/or steam rooms and cold plunges or ice rooms. Japanese custom is to bath/soak naked. Onsens are divided by sex and, sometimes, the male onsen and the female onsen switch according to a daily schedule. Public or semi-private hand showers with stools ring most onsens and guests must first shower before entering the pool. Tattoos are not allowed at most, and it is verboten to splash and rinse your face. Ritual bathing still is a way of life in Japan and my best advice is to not be shy and embrace it. Your skin will never feel so smooth.
My free and for-purchase itineraries and guides are action-packed and lean heavy on wayfaring (enjoying destinations by foot) and road trips. I specialize in travel for active, 40+ traveling couples who neither spend extravagantly nor journey on a shoestring. I know where to splurge and where to save, and will advise on the best way to thrive when on the road. I live and work from abroad 8 months of the year with my husband, Adam. The other four, I explore every last hiking trail in my home of Sedona, Arizona, USA. FYI — we rent out our home nightly via Airbnb and VRBO. Check out at sedona-vacation-home.com. I'm food-motivated and passionate about weird, little museums; explore by foot whenever I can — clocking miles on pavement, sand, and single track in places as diverse as Kyoto, Cartagena, and Tallinn. I balance my travel time returning to favorite spots (ANYWHERE in Japan; Oaxaca, Mexico; Siem Reap, Cambodia) and peeling back the layers of somewhere new. I'm available for hire as a travel consultant and I will continue producing very opinionated travel guides here on Thatch and publish my travel musings via posts and stories on Instagram via @wayfarerdawn and on my website wayfarerdawn.com.
