Hiking the Albanian Alps

🚗 Getting There

● To reach the Alps, there are two ways: either you go to Theth and hike to Valbonë, or you do it the other way around. In this guide, I will describe the hiking route from Theth to Valbonë.

To reach Theth, you need to do a bit of extra planning, but it's nothing difficult. No official public buses operate to Theth from Shkodër, so you either need to ask your hostel/hotel to arrange transportation for you, or, as in my case, I arranged the minibus myself since my guesthouse owner lacked information about the transfer. Online, I found a few contact numbers for buses heading to Theth.

These are all the numbers I attempted to message the evening before departing for Theth (not the wisest idea), and luckily, one of them replied with available space:

• Gjin +355685656797,

• Besnik +355673031234,

• Lush +355693231884.

The journey is 10 €, departing at 7 am and reaching Theth in approximately 2.5 hours.

● Also, recently, I saw that people are sharing that now it is possible to book the bus online, and the price is 15 €.

Shkodër to Theth bus

albanianbus.com

Theth

Theth

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● Before embarking on the big hike, I decided to stay a few days in Theth and explore the surrounding hikes, especially since the weather forecast wasn't looking great, and I didn't want to be stuck in the mountains during the rain. Theth ended up being the most beautiful city in Albanian for me and I also found the best food there. Here are the activities I did in Theth:

Waterfall Theth

@Kokustravel

It's not a difficult hike; anyone can easily do it. It took around 2 hours one way, but I was really taking my time, so you can probably do it even faster. I would say maybe the last 10-15 minutes get steep, and when you reach the top, you'll find the waterfall. If you're brave, you can definitely take a swim at the waterfall, though it's very cold. But I believe you can do it 😉.

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Blue Eye Kaprre

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If you thought the waterfall was cold, think again. The Blue Eye was unbelievably chilly, even for me. The hike to this place is genuinely enjoyable as it winds through amazing valleys, though it is a bit challenging as it gets steep in the last 45-55 minutes. However, when you reach the eye, you'll be shocked by the crystal-clear blue water. To get back, I took a taxi with a friend that cost around 20€. If you don't want to, you don't have to; you can definitely walk back to Theth.

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Kisha e Thethit

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This is the most popular church in Theth. If you were to Google Theth, I swear this is the picture that would mostly come up.

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🥘 Where to eat?

Shpella Camping Restaurant

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I tried the veggie risotto here, and just thinking about it brings back the tasty vibes. They've got lots of other traditional foods to choose from too.

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Villa GJECAJ Restaurant

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Eating at this spot feels like something out of a fairy tale. It's up on a hill, so you get a great view of Theth and the valley. You can see all the mountains around. The outdoor setup is nice, with some cool lights. If you're lucky, you might snag a seat under a tree and have an awesome meal. If you're traveling as a couple and want to have a date night, this is the place to go.

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🛏️ Where to stay?

Shpella Camping Theth

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Although I didn't stay here, I found myself passing by this enchanting place multiple times during my hikes. The location is incredibly beautiful, and I often daydreamed about staying here. The only downside is that if you plan to hike to Valbone, it may add at least an extra 30 minutes, if not more, to your overall hiking time.

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The Big Hike

● Belive me you can do it!

Valbonë-Teth viewpoint peak

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The main goal of the hike is to reach the pass. Some folks reach the pass and return to Theth, while others continue on to Valbonë. Getting to this pass is a bit challenging if you're not in the best physical shape, but I saw many older people do it, so I believe almost anyone can manage it. There are plenty of people hiking, so if you're hiking solo, don't worry—you won't be alone, and it's completely safe.

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Simoni Kafe

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This cafe is along the way down to Valbonë. After crossing the pass, everyone mentioned a cafe nearby, but to be honest, it's not as close as they say. It definitely took around 40 minutes to get there from the pass. So, the cafe does exist, but it's farther than everyone is telling you! 😀

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Valbonë

● While there are plenty of hikes that you can definitely do in the mountains around Valbonë, I didn't attempt any myself. I heard they're pretty challenging, and I wasn't in the mood for more hiking after all the previous ones in Theth.

🥘 Where to eat?

Guest House - Restaurant - Hotel NATYRA

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The food here was decent, I wouldn't say it was anything special, but given the limited options within walking distance, this was my choice.

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🛏️ Where to stay?

Hotel Margjeka

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Spectacular place, with one drawback. This spot offers an amazing view of the mountains and is one of the closest places to the hiking path, though you have to take a small detour to reach it. The staff is really friendly, the breakfast is delicious and filling, everything is clean, but it's just far away from the town and other restaurants. However, if I were to go back to Valbonë, I would stay here again.

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Going Back To Shkodër o

● The fun doesn't stop at Valbonë. Returning to Shkodër might be a full-day journey, but believe me, it will be one of the most beautiful days in Albania. To get back to Shkodër, you need to take a ferry across Lake Komani, and the views during the trip are spectacular.

Komani Lake

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 ● To take the ferry, you need to purchase tickets online and also book transfers from Valbonë to the ferry and from the ferry to Shkodër. When you visit their website to buy tickets for the ferry, you can also book the transfers. Just click on the 'Add Service Pickup' option and choose the directions you are traveling.

The ride from Valbonë to the ferry is quite winding, and some people seemed to struggle with it. If you easily get car sick, I recommend sitting at the front of the pickup minibus. The entire journey takes around 5-6 hours.

💡 Useful Tips 

🔹 Take out money before going to the mountains. There are NO ATMs in Theth and Valbonë and as in most of Albania, practically no one takes cards.

🔹 If you're planning to complete the entire hike from Theth to Valbonë, leave all unnecessary items at your guesthouse. While some may charge for storage, others may provide this service for free. 

🔹 Remember to plan your transportation a few days in advance, especially during the high season. Whether heading to Theth or Valbonë.

🔹 Bring enough water and some snacks for the hike.

🔹 Most importantly, don't leave any trash during the hike!

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