2 Day itinerary Cinque Terre and Portovenere
The highlight of this itinerary is the hiking trail that communicates the different Cinque Terre villages.
· Day 1 will be a bit more relaxed visiting only the first town of Riomaggiore and Portovenere (not included in the Cinque Terre but worth a visit!).
· Day 2 will be more active, visiting the other four villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola) via the hiking trails while enjoying the stunning views this has to offer.
This itinerary is based on a trip I did in May 2024 with a friend. I have added the changes that I'd like to have made in my own trip to have the best experience possible.
It includes suggestions for restaurants in Cinque Terre and Portovenere where you'll indulge in the local cuisine (charcuterie and cheese boards, focaccia, farinata, croston d'erbetti...) and a recommendation for an accomodation in La Spezia, a great base to visit Cinque Terre.
What to know before going?
Bring closed shoes suitable for hiking. Don't make the same mistake I DID! A pair of everyday trainers won't do it... The trail has some sections of dirt terrain with lots of rock steps on steep hills. Pack a bottle of water, a hat and SPF as it can get hot!
Suitable for solo travelers, groups and families who are moderately fit.
Enjoy!
Day 1
Wake up in La Spezia, great base to visit the Cinque Terre UNESCO World Heritage recognized area, and after breakfast, head to the train station and purchase your single way ticket to Riomaggiore (5€ weekday price / 8€ weekend price).
Stop 1: Riomaggiore
Once you get to the train station, don't follow the crowd into the road that leads to town, instead, walk towards the end of the platform and follow the start of a path that goes around the cliff and overlooks the sea. This path will bring you to town while enjoying the view of the blue sea. Wander the narrow streets of Riomaggiore and head to the harbour to find the main viewpoint that you've seen all over internet while doing research for this trip!
It's located down in the marina. Climb the staircase on the left and then some steps down to the rocks where you'll have a view of the colourful houses and the harbour. It was a rainy day when I went but even though the sky was grey, it was beautiful, imagine with the sun shinning! You can then have a lunch break before walking to the top of the town to visit the Church and enjoy the panoramic view from up there.
Take the ferry from Riomaggiore to Portovenere (Ferry line 02), it takes 30 min and costs around 16-19€ single way. Check out the timetables here:
Stop 2: Portovenere
Even though Portovenere it's not one of the Cinque Terre villages, I encourage you not to miss it! Visit the picturesque harbor of Portovenere, Porta del Borgo and the narrow medieval streets, Doria Castle, a centuries-old fortress with the views of the Gulf of Poets, Santuario della Madonna Bianca, Chiesa di San Pietro and Lord Byron’s Grotto.
Have an Aperol Spritz (because what else screams more "italian holiday" than this!) in one of the local bars and relax enjoying the view of the sea and some people watching.
Then take the cliff path on the right side of the castle to enjoy the sunset without crowds since most of the tourists will have left and you'll have the place (almost) for yourself!. Best time of the year to visit is during low season, May-June when the weather is getting warmer and it's not too crowded.
After sunset, have dinner in one of the local restaurants. I recommend "Il Timone" on Via Olivo, 29, right by the sea.
Take the bus back to La Spezia after dinner. Buses run until late but make sure to check the schedule. I took the 21:15pm bus but there was one last bus at 23:20pm (times valid between September to June). The ticket will cost around 2,5€ and takes 25 min to La Spezia. It's a curvy road so expect some movement!
Day 2
Have an early morning and prepare yourself for an active day with a good breakfast. Head to the train station and take the train to Monterosso al Mare. I suggest buying the Cinque Terre card (32€ on weekends). It includes unlimited train rides and free entrance to the hiking trails in Cinque Terre.
Stop 1: Monterosso al Mare
Once in Monterosso, explore the old town. This itinerary doesn't include time for a long day at the beach, but if you are lucky enough with the weather, you can have a quick dip in the sea. Monterosso has the larger beach of all the Cinque Terre villages so have that in mind if you want to enjoy a beach day and extend your trip another day.
From Monterosso, start the first hike of the day. It will take you to the next town, Vernazza. This hike will take aprox. 2h with several stops along the way and many steps to climb. It's a bit challenging but any moderately fit person will be able to do it. It's also suitable for kids but the ones that are used to going on excursions! I highly recommend bringing a good pair of hiking or walking shoes that are comfortable, don't be like me and wear a pair of white trainers that made my feet very sore! Despite the challenges, I would totally recommend doing it if you appreciate a good hike. The trail features beautiful views of the sea and vineyards, wildflowers, waterfalls, and olive trees for shade.
Be aware that there is a checkpoint some meters into the trail where they will check your Cinque Terre card or where you can purchase a trail ticket for 7,5€ (valid from Monterosso to Vernazza only).
Stop 2: Vernazza
After approximately 2h, you'll reach Vernazza, but 10 min before you reach the town you'll come across the main viewpoint where you can take the perfect picture from afar. Be patient as this small flat area on the side of the path will probably be busy with other people waiting to take a picture, but the view is totally worth it!
Once you arrive in Vernazza, have a lunch break in one of the local restaurants or do like me and pack your lunch and seat in one of the benches on the harbour to enjoy some rays of sun and save some coin that you can then spend in gelato! After exploring the town and recovering some energy, start the 2nd hike of the day from Vernazza to Corniglia.
This hike will take you aprox. 1h and 40 min with several stops along the way. Like the first hike, this one also has rock steps to climb up and down, but this leg of the hike was easier than the previous one. There is another ticket checkpoint some meters into the trail (if you don't have the Cinque Terre card, you can purchase a ticket here for 7,5€ valid from Vernazza to Corniglia).
Around 40 min into the hike, if you are lucky, you'll come across a very pleasant surprise. A stand run by some locals selling beverages and fresh fruit on one side of the path. There is enough space there for them to have a few small tables with chairs overlooking the sea. You can sit down for a few minutes while savouring a basket of strawberries.
Stop 3: Corniglia
After this break, continue the hike to Corniglia while enjoying the views this trail has to offer. The town of Corniglia is the only one in the Cinque Terre that is located on top of a hill and has no direct access to the sea, that is why is recommended to access it from Vernazza and not the other way round. If you were to go from Corniglia to Vernazza, you'll had to climb the "Scalinata Lardarina", a long, zigzagging red brick staircase with nearly 400 steps up the cliff.
Some people skip Corniglia due to its difficult access but, in my opinion, it's well worth a visit. The Cinque Terre's main attractive aspect for me is the hike between the towns and the stunning panoramic views from up there, that's why this is the highlight of this 2 day itinerary.
When you are ready to continue after wandering around Corniglia, reach the train station going down the "Scalinata Lardarina" (much easier to go down than up after so many rock steps along the hike!) and take the train to Manarola for your last stop of the day.
Stop 4: Manarola
First thing after arriving in Manarola is to download the Nessun Dorma app (famous restaurant for dinner after sunset) to get in queue for a table! The restaurant doesn't allow bookings, instead, it has its own system of queuing online until there is a free table. That is why I recommend doing it the second you arrive into town. This way, you can visit it while awaiting for your table and maybe have another gelato!
Once there are 10 people in the online queue it's time to approach the restaurant. To get there, follow the path from the harbour on the right that leads up the cliff. Make sure you get to Manarola in time to enjoy the sunset and then proceed to your table in Nessun Dorma for some cold meat cuts and cheese platter, focaccia and why not an aperol spritz or glass of wine. From the restaurant's terrace you'll see the whole town of Manarola with the lights on, a postcard worthy view!
After dinner and drinks, your day is complete and filled up with great memories, stunning pictures, a full belly of delightful Italian charcuterie, and probably sore legs haha, so it's time to head back to La Spezia by train and have a good night sleep.
I hope you find this 2 day itinerary helpful for your next Cinque Terre trip! If you want you can also follow my adventures and more travel tips on instagram :)
@sophiamandarina
Good travels!
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