๐ด Bali is not just Kuta, Seminyak or Sanur, it's so much more! And the east of the island, the region called Karangasem, hosts absolute treasures. You will also find there a more traditional Bali, very attached to its traditions. Up in the mountains they still seldomly see a foreigner and you will feel like your traveling back in time.
๐ After 6 years living in Amed, and spending countless hours exploring, exchanging with the locals, taking friends with me, I have dozens of address. Here's what you will find :
๐ Food ! I'm a huge foodie & all places mentioned here I go to regularly. It will be a mix of local warungs & more westernized options. The food scene in Bali is huge and cannot be summarised by fried rice & noodles.
๐๏ธ Places to stay
๐คฟ Activities : this beautiful region has a lot to offer if you're willing to explore a bit.
๐ต Budget wise, you will find recommendations for all : backpacker friendly or more luxury. But overall, Karangasem is a more affordable region than the south of Bali and true luxury is still hard to find.
๐This map of 20+ locations will keep you busy for 3 to 5 days. It contains some do's & don't, the must-see, do & eat, but is not exhaustive. A more complete guide is coming that will contain all my recommendations including Candidasa and Sidemen.
Enjoy !
Welcome to my home, stuck between the black sand beaches, the mountains & the volcano, Amed is special. One warning : you risk to fall in love and stay for good...ย
Activitiesย
Underwater ๐คฟ
Do
โ Wear a rashguard or t-shirt & don't go snorkel in the middle of the day. You will burn in less than 15mn, save yourself a painful sunburn.
โ Use coral safe sunscreen, best option is to buy it before you come, options are limited in Amed and very expansive.
Don't
๐ Stand on & touch coral. It looks like a rock? It's probably coral, just stay flat & float, it's more comfortable and less tiring! Don't destroy what you came to see. Also there's nothing dangerous down there, but coral can easily cut, and you don't want to know why the fire hydrant wears that name.
Easy tip : pack a mask & snorkel you are comfortable in, if you didn't or can't, there are guys on every beach with a reef that will rent you one set with fins for 50k.ย
๐คฟ If you have never tried scuba diving Amed is the perfect place for that : calm shallow & crystal clear water, beautiful reefs, easy access wrecks... Fresh Fins is one the newest addition to all the dive centers in town, but one of the most beautiful and professional with high quality equipment and guides. The owners have years of experience and you will be in good hands.
โด๏ธ If you're not comfortable going underwater and just want to snorkel, you have the unique possibility to see a wreck without going down. Stuck between 3 and 30mn deep, the USAT Liberty has been in the water since the 60s and is full of life. An unforgettable experience.
๐ญ Head to Lahangan Sweet for a breathtaking view : Agung on one side, the ocean on the other. You can even camp there and enjoy the sunrise. Be careful when you drive up there : the road is good but steep & winding, get a scooter with good power. The last leg is dirt, but you can do it on foot or with the cars they have there. Unless you're a very experimented driver I wouldn't recommend driving yourself.
Curious to see a local market ? If yes, you'll have to get up early, by 9AM most stands are packed up. Best is to come around 5:30 or 6AM to see it buzzing with activity.
The most luxurious hotel you can experience in the area : all villas have a private pool and a beautiful view over the ocean & the mountains. A bit more out the way from the center of Amed.
๐ฐ๐ฐ๐ฐ High budget
One of the oldest hotels in the area, right on the beach with access to beautiful snorkeling, a big garden with each room in a little bungalows. Medium range budget. The restaurant of the hotel is very good & the pool in the shade : a rare occurence in the area.
๐ฐ๐ฐ Medium range
Lovely small hotel, with a little pool and close to a lot of things. Quieter area as it's not right on the main street.
๐ฐ Lower budget
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Where to eat ๐
๐ฃ Most important tip for an easy trip without the infamous Bali belly :ย
๐ Start taking gut probiotics 2 weeks before AND during the trip.ย
๐งผ Wash your hands before eatingย
Do this and you will be fine, even with a sensitive stomach. But yes, there are bacteria in Asia that are different and can upset you, 99% of restaurants, even local places are totally safe to eat, bacteria can come from touching something & touching your face after. Just use common sense!
If you want to experience a real warung, it's the perfect place, the owner's are lovely and welcoming and the food always delicious. But as most local places, service is slow, sometimes very slow, my recommendation is to avoid going if you already see a couple tables. I personally love to order a nasi campur : white rice with a mix of veggies & meat.
Don't refuse the free dessert of fried bananas, it's delicious and Iluh will get mad!
๐ฑ๐ฑ Lots of vegetarian option
๐ฐ Low budget
The owner is a french who married a local fisherman, from her past of chef in France, she created a 'fusion' menu between the two cuisines. Everything is delicious but my favorite is the banana flower curry. Book in advance as it's usually full.
๐ฑ๐ฑ๐ฑ Very vegetarian & vegan frendly
๐ฐ๐ฐ Medium range
๐ฎ The owner is Mexican and after years of living in Amed was craving to recreate the taste of it's country. He succeeded by doing everything by hand, in house : chips, tortillas, hot sauce ... You're in for an explosion of flavours. Don't forget to bring a bottle of hot sauce home for the fans of chili!
๐ฑ๐ฑ The menu is small but every variant has a vegetarian and / or vegan option and the mushrooms are yummy
GF : tacos, nachos, flautas, salads & the ceviche are gluten free
๐ฐ๐ฐ Slightly more than a local warung but the portions are huge.
The equivalent of the local joint for the locals : buffet style, point at what you want, added on a base of white rice. Cheap, tasty & quick.
๐ฑ๐ฑ Vegetarian options with vegetables, tempe & tofu
๐ฐ Low budget
Beautiful restaurant with a mix of local & french cuisine. Everything is fantastic, but if you are a sweet tooth : definitely get a pastry. The ice cream is always homemade.
Word of advice : better early morning or in the evening, during the day sit at the first space, it gets insanely hot in the second building.
๐ฑ๐ฑ๐ฑ Lots of vegetarian & vegan options
๐ฐ๐ฐ Medium range
Another place where locals, expats & tourists come to. Super affordable & delicious : try the ayam lalapan (fried chicken) and the bakso (local soup). Bakso is an absolute staple of Indonesian food & something they eat almost every day. You will see men on scooters with a set up to sell bakso off it. If you have a strong stomach you can try it, otherwise warung Kita will be a very nice option!
๐ฑ Limited options
๐ฐ Low budget
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Go out ๐
Amed used to be a quiet fisherman's village, it's now starting to change & develop but it still has that easy going vibe. You won't find fancy places to go out and clubs. So relax and go dance barefoot โจโจ
Go on the evening with live music, feet in the sand the ambiance is always good, you can drink the local alcohol, arak & beer. It's not fancy, but you always have a good time there.
My favorite spot for a sunset with a drink. On the beach with the perfect view on the volcano, the food is quite good as well. The access is a bit hidden, but you just take the little pathway on the side of no fear diving.
Biggest spa in Amed so easier to do a walk in, a lot of their therapists are really good and they offer a good range of massages. Also the place is beautiful, but no AC in the rooms so it can get hot.
Oneway was made by the local coffee star : you will only get high quality coffee with different local grains. Not to hurt the food is quite good, I like the ramen for a cosy evening.
Great for unique souvenirs : the owners make their own designs for the bags, pillows, t-shirts...
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Amlapuraย
I would recommend to stay in Amed & go for the day in the area. Amlapura is not very touristy & stays will be more limited.ย
Do
โ Wear clothes with more coverage than by the beach. Amlapura is the only big muslim area in Karangasem and people can get uncomfortable if you wear super tight shorts or crop tops. Also you won't be allowed in temples.
โ Take a sarong with you, you will need to wear it to enter temples as well.
โ Wear a helmet ! Even if locals don't always do it, traffic can be a bit hectic when not used to it and an accident is quick to happen.
Tirta Gangga or the water palace is one of the most famous place to visit in the area. Buses come from the south so it makes it very busy at times.
My best tips : Come early & bring a swim suit! Few people know you can swim in some of the pools (not all), towards the back, there is even a changing area. The water is very refreshing.
The biggest market in the area, definitely worth a stop to have a feel of the local produces. Stays open & busy later in the day, but it's best to come before 9AM. After 12 most people packed up.
One of the very few places where you can try the regional dish of Karangasem : Nasi Belayag. Steamed rice in banana leaf with a mix of veggies & meat covered with a coconut curry style sauce. One of my favorite thing to eat, and most people never hear about it.
It's also a very local place, you won't see many foreigners there.
๐ฑ๐ฑ Easy to ask without meat
๐ฐ Very affordable
๐ซ๐ท Hi, I'm Julia, I'm a frenchie who grew up in Normandy & studied history in Paris for 6 years.
๐ฎ๐ฉ I have now been living in Bali, Indonesia for more than 5 years.
Far away from the expat community I've settled in a more natural, tranquil area of the island. I've learned the language, actually I still am, as well as the culture or the history of this region & the country.
๐ด Since I've moved here my goal has been to bring a different side of the island to visitors, for them to see the traditions, the slow Bali life. Use the services of local businesses & more sustainable options than the big chains we can find in the south of Bali.
๐ต If you like to explore off the beaten path, trust me you're in for a treat! After driving around the island on my scooter, I've found some truly beautiful places that tend to be forgotten or overlooked.
๐ I'm also a huge foodie, an ocean lover & a road tripper : trust me to taste the best the island has to offer in terms of flavors, ๐คฟ diving spots & scenic roads .
๐คซ From super budget to semi-luxury, I'll give you all my best adresses, send you to my favorite local guides & activities, give you my recommendations for an unforgettable & hassle-free holiday.
Check out my guides & services to plan the perfect Bali holiday!