An Introduction to Split
Split sits on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea and is known as the historical region of Dalmatia. This is important to note as Dalmatian food takes much of its inspiration from Mediterranean cooking, including lots of fresh fish and seafood and it tends to be lighter than many other traditional Croatian dishes, which feature a lot of meats and vegetable stews.
When visiting Croatia you should seek out the local Konoba's. These are often family-owned and run restaurants and serve the most authentic and flavourful foods at a fraction of the price of popular tourist spots. The word 'konoba' simply translates to 'taverna' or 'kitchen' and will be paired with the family name and we would encourage you to seek these out at every opportunity. Everything served from the meats and fish to the cheeses and wines are produced locally and are absolutely delicious.
Local Croatian produce you must try
Croatian cheeses
Cheese plays an important role in Croatian cuisine and the local cheeses come in all manner of shapes and sizes. You'll find hard cheeses such as Paški sir ('pag') which is most similar in taste and texture to Spanish manchego, and soft cheeses like Basa which is often stuffed into delicious fried pastries like the soparnik, similar to a Greek spanakopita.
One thing you'll find on almost every menu throughout Croatia is a meat & cheese plate (or just cheese), usually served with a mix of local dried fruits and nuts, such as raisins, figs & almonds.
I would highly recommend trying one of these platters either as a lunchtime snack for two or as an after-dinner treat instead of, or as an addition, to dessert.
Fish & seafood
Croatia boasts an exceptional standard of fish and seafood, thanks to the pristine waters of the Adriatic Sea. The abundance of incredible fish and seafood includes oysters, sardines, mackerel, sea bass and prawns and can be found at many local fish markets. These varieties are perfect for barbecuing or frying and served simply with potatoes and a side salad.
If you're feeling a little more adventurous, you may find fish such as John Dory, grouper, monkfish, bluefin tuna, ray, octopus and lobster, although they typically reserved for restaurants. If you enjoy locally sourced seafood and classic side dishes then you absolutely must try the incredible fish & seafood on offer in Croatia.
If you would like to visit a local fish market during your stay in Split, we would recommend Ribarnica in Split's city centre.
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Lamb
The lamb graze high up in the mountains in Croatia and the combination of the salty, sea air, green pastures and active lifestyle leads to a very special meat, which is rich and aromatic and has become highly popular with tourists and locals alike.
The very best lamb is served at small local konobas and is usually cooked on a spit, low and slow, this allows the meat to fall apart and will generally be served with a salad of potatoes and a fresh leafy green salad with a basket of bread. Croatians eat bread with almost every meal.
Truffles
You'll notice a lot of fresh truffle on the menu throughout Croatia, and if you can't get enough of this luxurious fungi then you'll be very happy. Croatia is making a name for itself by producing some of the finest truffles for a fraction of the cost of those produced in Italy. You'll find menus everywhere boasting truffle-infused pasta, risotto and even shaved onto pizzas. Utterly indulgent and delicious make sure you try some during your stay and if you want to take some souvenirs home we'd recommend seeking out Aroma Dalmatia where you can pick up truffle infused oils, truffle flavoured crisps and even white chocolate with truffle pieces.
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Wine
Croatian wine is incredible and is still a fraction of the price of Italian, French and Spanish wines. This is mostly due to the fact that the vineyards here are small, family-run businesses and do not currently have the capacity to supply huge quantities, so it's unlikely you'll find many Croatian wines in your local supermarket, but trust me when I tell you to choose the local Croatian wines at every opportunity, you will not be disappointed.
Local Croatian dishes you must try
Crni rižot (Black risotto)
You can find this dish on almost every Dalmatian menu and is made with squid ink, which gives the rice a deep colour and flavour. Additional squid and other seafood is added and is usually topped with fresh herbs for a contrast of colour against the deep black rice.
Burek
Is a flaky, layered pastry dish similar to that of a German strudel or Greek spanokopita, but it is rolled and baked, then sliced like a cake and they are most commonly filled with meat or cheese. Our favourite is filled with cheese and spinach and is a perfect mid-morning snack. If you're craving something a little bit naughty then visit ST Burek where you can choose from a variety of sweet and savoury flaky burek pastries.
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Ćevapčići
Very similar to Greek or Turkish kebabs, ćevapčići is made with a mix of beef and lamb mince, formed into small sausage shapes and skewered before being grilled. They are served inside a flatbread with sliced onions, peppers and aubergines.
Peke (Peka)
Peka is a dish that is traditionally eaten on Sundays and most often prepared and cooked by the men in the family. It is usually made with lamb, beef or octopus, potatoes and other hard root vegetables covered in stock and added to a large dome-shaped pot. This pot is then placed onto a barbecue and covered with hot coals to slowly cook for a few hours. It is served in the pot with a basket of bread, family-style, for everyone to help themselves.
It is utterly delicious and I highly recommend trying this whilst you're in Croatia. Visit your local konoba as these will prepare the most authentic version and you'll need to pre-order you dish a minimum of 24 - 48 hours in advance.
Michelin-star restaurants in Split
The Michelin Guide has a total of nine restaurants listed in Split, including those with the Bib Gourmand award for value and quality. Three of which are listed in my best restaurants guide below; Konoba Fetivi, Zoi and Zrno Soli.
If Split hasn't been on your radar until now, make sure you add it to your travel bucket list. It's one of my favourite places to visit and it's an absolute foodies paradise.
16 Best Restaurants to visit in Split
Adriatic Sushi & Oyster Bar
Adriatic Sushi & Oyster bar Split
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This beautiful restaurant is tucked away in the maze of alleyways and squares that make up Diocletian's Palace and is a must-visit for any diehard sushi lovers.
My recommendation would be to start with six fresh and creamy oysters and follow this with a selection of sushi rolls; tuna maki, classic uramaki, California, spicy tuna and my favourite, a dragon roll. They also have some fantastic sashimi on offer paired with pickled ginger, soy and wasabi.
Fish and seafood is featured heavily in most restaurants throughout Split and this little courtyard restaurant has created the perfect way to showcase the incredible local produce.
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Bokeria Kitchen & Wine
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Possibly my favourite restaurant in Split, this stylish restaurant and bar serves classic flavours of the Mediterranean as well as beautiful Dalmatian dishes.
My recommendations are the gin-infused gazpacho, the swordfish steak with sweet root vegetable puree and glazed beetroot and the grilled octopus. Simple, classic ingredients, cooked perfectly and served with fantastic local wines.
During high season (June - September) it is difficult to get a table without having booked so if you do want to enjoy lunch or dinner here, make sure you book well in advance.
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FANTAŽIJA kitchen and wine
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This beautiful little restaurant is set inside an old traditional stone house and offers a daily changing menu, all dishes are prepared with local produce.
Set inside an old traditional house at the centre of Split. The chefs and owners of the restaurant pride themselves on sourcing the finest local produce, which they use to showcase the best of Croatian cuisine.
They offer a daily changing menu and I tried both the local fish stew and grilled octopus, both of which were utterly delicious.
The restaurant is currently open for dinner on Tuesday - Sunday.
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Gourmet Bar Basta
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Basta has the most amazing location for people-watching, or yacht-watching, whichever you prefer.
Located just a short walk from Diocletian's Palace and the famous Riva, it's the perfect place to enjoy a delicious lunch and a cocktail or two. The menu offers traditional wood-fired pizzas, cheese and meat-sharing platter, homemade focaccia and the freshest salads.
This is another popular spot so I would recommend reserving a table to avoid disappointment.
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Kod Sfinge
This fabulous little restaurant doesn't seem to have a location, but I promise you it does exist and didn't want to keep this one from you.
Kod Sfinge Vaneuropske Zviri is a small family-owned and run restaurant offering traditional Dalmatian dishes. The vibe is laidback and fun and you'll ever know what sort of music will be playing, everything from reggae to 90s classic RnB, the owner here is fabulous and a little bit quirky and she'll make you feel right at home with her warm sense of humour.
I'd recommend the sausage pasta or any dish that includes truffle. If possible, get yourself a table on the stairs, it's a great people-watching spot and something a little bit different.
On my last visit, this was still a cash-only restaurant but there are two cash machines at the bottom of the steps. To book a table for dinner you do have to pop in during the day and make your reservation directly with the staff.
Konoba Fetivi
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Konoba Fetivi has been featured regularly over the past few years in the Michelin Guide, being awarded the Bib Gourmand for value and quality. It's a very popular fish and seafood restaurant with an open courtyard, just a short stroll from the waterfront.
It is an authentic konoba which offers a selection of fresh, locally caught fish which the owner and chef purchase daily from the small fish market close by. Once you've sat down and ordered some drinks, your server will present you with the daily selection and ask how you would like it prepared.
I would recommend trying the mixed, grilled fish platter, which was more than enough for two served with a simple and delicious side salad.
Due to its continued acknowledgement from Michelin, it can be difficult to get a table here in the evenings, but try and pop in for a late lunch as you're more likely to bag a table in the courtyard. If you do want to visit in the evenings please do book in advance, the restaurant currently only accepts phone bookings.
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Leonis Restaurant & Rooms
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Leonis is tucked away in one of the many alleyways that make up Diocletian's Palace...
Diocletian's Palace is huge and I would highly recommend booking a walking tour for one of your first couple of day in Split, you'll learn so much about the history here and also find lots of hidden restaurants that you may otherwise miss.... back to the restaurant...
The interiors here feel very luxurious, with comfortable, velvet chairs and exposed brickwork, black and white artwork adorning the walls and a tastefully backlit wine collection. It is a fish and seafood restaurant but you'll also find some incredible steak dishes available here.
I would recommend trying the black risotto here and ending your meal with a pistachio cream filled cannoli.
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Olive Tree
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This restaurant has some mixed reviews online and I get it. It is a little expensive and a bit showy, but it does have one of the best locations along the Riva. In the evenings here it get lively, with a DJ and even a dance floor. They also host regular events including sushi and champagne nights.
The food is more expensive than some of the other restaurants on this list, but the quality is great and the atmosphere is fantastic. I would recommend a sushi selection and a nice bottle of chilled Croatian wine.
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Poseidon Restaurant
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Named after the Greek God of the Sea, Posejdon Restaurant sits in the heart of Split's old town, inside the western gate of the Palace. It's the perfect spot to admire the historic architecture and the throngs of people exploring the city.
The menu comprises elegant fish dishes, classic Dalmatian cuisine and the finest Croatian wines. I'd recommend the cheese board to share with dried fruit and nuts, followed by the mussels alla busara which is a traditional Croatian recipe, cooked with white wine and finished with breadcrumbs.
It is a truly unique setting to enjoy a late lunch of fresh and delicious Dalmatian dishes, surrounded by history.
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Restaurant Nostromo
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Restaurant Nostromo is located opposite the entranceway to the daily fish market, you can dine here for lunch (inside only) and dinner (inside or on the covered terrace) and the decor is very traditional. It has areas of exposed stonework and lots of photos, artwork and trinkets adorning the walls.
The food is simple and classic but prepared and served with excellence. They offer beautiful plates of fresh fish, local meats and cheeses, washed down with the finest Croatian wines, the seafood is particularly wondered.
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SILK - Pan-Asian Fresh Street Food
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OK, this one might seem like a rogue entry but after all of the fish, seafood and stews you'll be enjoying I wanted to include something a little different.
Silk Street Food is a fast-food Pan Asian restaurant, serving a variety of sushi dishes, crispy gyozas and wok-fried noodles.
They don't take reservations here, so grab a seat outside, take a look through the menu and then head inside to order & pay - credit and debit cards are accepted. The dishes are served as soon as they are ready, in no particular order (think Wagamamas style) but everything I tried from Silk was flavourful, fresh and where needed, just a little bit spicy.
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Štorija Fine Dining
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Located inside the historic Diocletian's Palace on the Riva, a bustling palm-lined boardwalk looking out over the deep blue Adriatic. Storija has the most spectacular location which is mirrored in the quality of the dishes and professional service from the team.
I ate here a lot during my three months in Split and my top rated dishes are the local fish stew with polenta, seared tuna and the sirloin steak with cauliflower puree.
It's the perfect spot to enjoy a leisurely lunch on the covered terrace. As with most of the restaurants along the Riva, it is a little more expensive but the quality, paired with the unique location, inside the walls of a 1700-year-old palace, is worth the extra in my opinion.
If you are wanting a table for a sunset dinner I recommend booking in advance.
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Zinfandel Food & Wine bar
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This cute little wine bar and restaurant is set in the tiny streets of the Palace, I stumbled upon it one evening as they had a guitarist and singer performing and it just had such a great atmosphere.
As it turns out they have live music here every evening in the summer, so it does get very busy. The menu comprises of modern Dalmatian cuisine and takes locally sourced produce, such as lamb and truffles and huge selection of carefully curated wines. I would recommend trying the truffle spaghetti, washed down with a deep and rich red Croatian wine.
To avoid disappointment, book your table 2 or 3 days in advance (it's a very small venue).
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Zlatna ribica
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Zlatna Ribica has been around for 20+ years and the name translates to 'goldfish'. It is a tiny restaurant located next to the covered fish market and serves a selection of fried and cold local fish and seafood dishes.
There are very few tables here but if you do manage to grab a seat I would recommend ordering an ice-cold beer and some crispy calamari, it's one of their specialities and the perfect bar snack in my opinion.
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Zoi
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Zoi is a Michelin Guide restaurant and is located next to the entrance of Diocletian's cellars - this is now home to a number of market stalls - at the South entrance of the Riva. Set inside the walls of the 1700-year-old palace, you'll dine in the most picturesque setting, it is truly unique and beautiful and overlooks the harbour.
The word 'Zoi' comes from the Greek language and it means 'life'. In this restaurant, the concept of life is essential and plays a significant role in the dining experience offered. The restaurant's aim is to narrate the tale of Split and how it came to be. They do this by serving delicious Mediterranean dishes that feature fresh, local ingredients. By using these ingredients the restaurant celebrates the life and vitality of the region and its people.
I would highly recommend booking a table here for a special occasion meal and trying one of the set menus. Three courses are priced at €80 per person or if you're looking for the ultimate indulgence, try the seven courses for €130 per person.
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Restaurant Zrno Soli
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With a number of awards including a mention in the Michelin Guide, Zrno Soli is definitely a special occasion restaurant. Set in the ACI Marina it has the perfect view of historical Split through the sea of luxury yachts and sailboats.
The food here is every bit as beautiful as the view and on arrival you'll be treated to some nibbles to get you started. On my visit this included curried nuts and whipped cheese.
My recommendations would be the cheese board, grilled Adriatic white fish fillet with shrimp sauce or the classic surf and turf with sliced tenderloin and Adriatic shrimp.
As special occasion restaurant the quality and location are reflected in the price, but the service, atmosphere, views, presentation and the quality and flavour were all 10/10 and totally worth the extra €s.
You absolutely must book if you want to dine here during your stay in Split and I would recommend phoning the restaurant as this way you can request a table on the balcony for the best views.
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A final note from me
Split is an incredible city that is brimming with history, you'll find the best little bars and restaurants whilst you get lost within the maze of alleyways and squares that make up Split's Old Town.
There is so much to try but step outside your comfort zone and taste some of the more unusual dishes of Croatia, everything here is prepared with fresh ingredients, love and passion so you won't be disappointed and remember if in doubt, find a konoba.
A Croatian's love language is food, so be prepared to eat well and eat a lot during your visit to Split. Enjoy.
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