Juliana Trail Itinerary

Juliana Trail Itinerary

2 Women Wandering
9 Days in Slovenia: Hiking the Juliana Trail from Lake Bled to Tolmin
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Day 1: Lake Bled

We flew from Paris to the Ljubljana airport, but you can also fly into Venice and get to Slovenia fairly easily. Lake Bled is the start of Stage 5 of the Juliana Trail, and due to time constraints, we decided to start our trek here. 

Pro Tip: you can hire a taxi or airport shuttle to take you directly from LJU to Lake Bled. It's super easy and very affordable. 

Lake Bled
@2womenwandering
A beautiful and peaceful lakeside city, the town of Bled has a wonderful walk all along the shore of Lake Bled. You can also find several places to rent boats to row out to the island in the middle of the lake.
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Things to do in Bled: 

Highlights of Bled include walking around the lakeside and rowing to the Assumption of Maria Church on Bled Island. The row was a little bit more difficult than we expected--the rowboat was definitely more unwieldy than a paddleboard or kayak, but worth the adventure. It cost about $20 and took a little over 2 hours for the whole experience. 

Penzion Kaps
@2womenwandering
We stayed here and would recommend it to anyone! The owners are delightful and so helpful with local recommendations. In the morning, you can wander down to the kitchen to find Peter in an apron making breakfast for you, and just enjoy the traditional oven and beautiful views of the mountains.
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What to Eat:

If you need food recommendations, don't hesitate to ask the owners of Penzion Kaps. We wandered to a steakhouse down the street on Peter's request, and it was amazing! 

Steakhouse Berc
@2womenwandering
If I can say anything about this place, it's GET THE CHEESE SOUP! It's a local recipe and it's absolutely amazing. The steak here is fantastic as well, but the cheese soup was absolutely incredible.
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Day 2: Lake Bled to Goreljek na Pokljuki

We started our first day of trekking with high spirits, but quickly got defeated by the constant downpouring of rain. The trail signs were fairly easy to follow, however we did lose them once or twice in the neighbourhoods. 

We started getting nervous when we noticed it was starting to snow and didn't want to get stuck hiking dangerous conditions.  Luckily, we made it to Zgornje Gorje, and found some very helpful people at the tourist center that called us a taxi to our destination for the night: Pokljuki. 

Things to Do in Goreljek: 

No idea!

We don't know much about what to do here, mostly because, if it's snowing and you've planned for hiking, you end up stuck in the hotel. There is a sauna, gym, and game room, but there's not much else to do in bad weather. 

Hotel Pokljuka
@2womenwandering
This hotel was perfect for what we needed: a warm place to sleep with very accommodating hosts. As there were only 4 other hikers crazy enough to try hiking through a snowstorm, we had the hotel to ourselves. If anyone is interested, there is a sauna room on the ground floor that is amazing.
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Day 3: Goreljek na Pokljui to Bohinjska Bistrica

Due to the snow, we again didn't make the trek, but booked a taxi with our fellow hikers to take us from Goreljek to Stara Fužina-the next stop on the trail. You can do this in two stages on the trail, and spend more time in Stara Fužina, but we decided that we should compress both stages into one day. This worked out well timewise, since we didn't hike either stage due to the snow. 

Stara Fužina

This place is so beautiful and quiet (at least during early April). 

Lake Bohinj
@2womenwandering
A picturesque town with a small chapel and stunning natural beauty, you shouldn't miss a stroll around the lake!
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Bohinjska Bistrica

To get to our Airbnb for the night, we took a local bus down to Bohinjska Bistrica. The taxi driver that dropped us off told us where the bus would pick us up, which was super helpful. The bus was super easy to use and right on time! There is an information center by the bus stop, which does make it easy if you have any questions. 

Things to Do: 

On our way to grab groceries for dinner, we stopped at the St. Nicholas church. It was a nice place to sit and eat a sandwich while we waited to check in to our Airbnb. We don't have much else on the list, as just wandering this small town was very enjoyable and beautiful. 

St. Nicholas
@2womenwandering
We stumbled upon this on our way to Spar, but this church has a beautiful cemetery and very peaceful grounds.
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Pod Rebrom 6
@2womenwandering
This was a nice place, with the host's mother living in the downstairs. She did make us some traditional toast (which may have been just lard on bread) and was so sweet and welcoming. However, she or one of the neighbours is a heavy smoker so the whole place did smell of smoke, especially at night.
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Day 4: Bohinjska Bistrica to Podbrdo

Hooray! Our first real day of trekking began at Stage 8! 

The trail was a gradual incline for the first several hours and we started to see more and more snow as we kept climbing. However, because we are very stubborn people, we just kept hiking. It wasn't super strenuous until we hit the Vrh Bače saddle (I think that's what it's called). This is where things were starting to get a little dangerous because we were now hiking through thigh-high snow. 

We stopped at someone's hunting cabin (thank you for the use of your front table!) for a quick power bar and drink stop before continuing on. Due to the snow and complete lack of a trail, we did lose the trail markers a few times. Thank heavens for the trail app, which kept us on track. After about 45 mins of hiking, we starting to make the descent towards Bača...and eventually, Podbrdo. This part isn't physically difficult, but when you add in completely soaked pants, shoes, and socks, and about 13km of hiking, you are just mentally exhausted. 

Things to Do in Podbrdo: 

There is an amazing bar where you can access the internet and grab a cup of tea (or something stronger) while you try to contact your Airbnb host. It's an amazing place filled with some really eclectic decor. 

Bar Baški hram Šorli Vilko s.p.
@2womenwandering
Just know that if you ask for tea with cream or milk, the bartender will just hand you a canister of whipped cream. It's fantastic.
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Brunarica Slap
@2womenwandering
I don't like fish and this was the best trout I've ever tasted in my life. It's also one of the only restaurants in Podbrdo, so you really don't have any other option. But the portions are large and the food is delicious. It's a bit of a walk up from town, but there is a shortcut behind a waterfall.
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Juliana Rooms Podbrdo
@2womenwandering
This place is amazing! It's a beautifully renovated old house, right across from the church. If you look pitiful enough, the Airbnb host will even drive you the 2km to Brunarica Slap. He's also amazing at local recommendations and will sit down with you and a map to show you everything.
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Day 5: Podbrdo to Grahovo ob Bači

This 17km day started off well. However, you gain a lot of altitude very quickly, which can be super tiring. 

After a few hours of hiking up, you reach a saddle and start the descent towards Kal. Our Airbnb host told us that this town has only 2 permanent residents-very believable once you see how small it is! Honestly, compared to the hike the day before, this was a really pleasant day. 

Stržišče
@2womenwandering
You pass this church while on the trail and it's amazing. It's perched quite high up on the edge of the hill and has some really beautiful overlooks. Not something that we would have been able to see if we weren't walking along the road.
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The only issue we faced on this day is that our Airbnb was not actually in the town of Grahovo, but past it. Thankfully, it was just hiking on the road, but it did add in almost another hour of walking that we weren't prepared for. 

Hisa Brdo Guesthouse
@2womenwandering
Despite the extra walk to get here, we loved this place! Roger and Louise are the sweetest couple ever and were so accommodating. Also, Louise makes a mean pasta and they even made us an electrolyte drink after our long hike. Their house is in a beautiful location overlooking the river.
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Day 6: Grahovo ob Bači to Tolmin

Due to time constraints, we completed Stages 10 and 11 of the Juliana Trail in one day. Again, the hiking wasn't too difficult, but there was a long and slow incline for several hours at the beginning of the day. However, we decided that going up is infinitely going down when your legs are tired, so we powered through some pretty big hills. 

Slap Sopot
@2womenwandering
If you're already on the trail or road, this is about a 10 min detour into the hills. It's a pretty waterfall, but maybe I'm just a pessimist because I don't think that it would be worth seeing if you weren't already in the area.
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You *have* to take a rest break at the overlook of Most Na Soči, because it's one of the most beautiful views on the entire trail. 

The worst part of the stage from Most Na Soči to Tolmin is that we were promised a riverside walk by the app, but then it took us up and around another freaking mountain. 

Because we were trying to get to our hostel and make it to the Tolmin River Gorges, we did not linger in Most Na Soči. However, it looks like there's a really beautiful riverside park. 

Most na Soči
@2womenwandering
Very beautiful and quaint riverside town with historic buildings and incredibly vivid water.
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Once we made it to Tolmin, we dropped off our belongings at the hostel and walked an additional 30 minutes up to the Gorge. This is an absolute do-not-miss, bucket list, incredible place to see. Words really can't describe how awe-inspiring it was, so we'll drop some pictures below. 

Things to Do: 

Tolmin River Gorge!!! 

Tolmin
@2womenwandering
The most beautiful place I've ever been.
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Also if you need a bus or a taxi or any information at all, please go to the Tourist Information Center! They are so kind and helpful. Also...free WiFi!

They helped us get set up with a bus back to Ljubljana, which was amazing. 

Hostel Hildegarden Padovan Polona s.p.
@2womenwandering
Super quaint and very quiet hostel. Of note, the beds are hard AF so do yourself a favour and ask for the extra mattress pad at check-in.
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Day 7-9: Ljubljana

The bus from Tolmin to Ljubljana only took about 2 1/2 hours and was very scenic. The capital of Slovenia is....adorable. The historic downtown is full of beautiful architecture and the castle is incredible. 

Ljubljana
@2womenwandering
Stay in Old Town! You'll be close to most of the tourist attractions and it's a very walkable part of the city.
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Things to Do: 

Just start walking! You can walk or take a funicular up to the Castle, which has an incredible overlook of the city. 

Ljubljana Castle
@2womenwandering
You can walk or take the funicular up the castle. If you can, walk back down to the city! It's not that hard and saves you a few euros while providing you with an amazing view of the city.
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Other sites to see include the Dragon Bridge, the main square (Prešernov trg), the market near the end of Butcher's Bridge, and the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. 

Dragon Bridge
@2womenwandering
Cool dragons. Enough said.
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Prešernov trg
@2womenwandering
There's so much to see and do around here. We enjoyed just walking around all the little side streets and checking out the buildings.
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What to Eat: 

Klobasarna
@2womenwandering
Delicious traditional soups with sausage. Very heartwarming comfort food.
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This might not be around anymore, but the Chef Ana Roš (Netflix A Chef's Table) had a pop-up right next to our hotel. It was a bit pricey, but a really fun experience with local produce and traditional recipes. 

Sarrbing (Korean Bingsu)
@2womenwandering
If there's Korean food anywhere, I will find it. 10/10 recommend the injeolmi or traditional bingsu. It was amazing and the owners were so kind.
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Best Western Premier Hotel Slon
@2womenwandering
Beautiful hotel in the best location to be able to explore old town Ljubljana.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2 Women Wandering
Hello! We’re Kenna and Eve, 2 best friends and travel buddies. We both work as Physical Therapists in SLC, UT but spend most of our free time traveling and exploring. Our favourite trips usually revolve around some kind of activity—hiking, biking, skiing, kayaking, paddle boarding, etc. We've found a way to incorporate adventure travelling into our busy schedule and would love to share our adventures with you!
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