Albania's South: A Hidden Gem of the Riviera
While the allure of Greek and Spanish islands often steals the spotlight, on't sleep on Albania – an affordable gem that rivals its Mediterranean counterparts. In just three days in the south, I was captivated by historic towns, natural wonders, and pristine beaches, leaving me yearning for more. Ready to explore the next big thing in European travel? Here are some tips for an unforgettable journey.
WHEN TO VISIT
Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, South Albania welcomes travelers year-round, but the real magic happens in spring and early autumn. Picture wandering ancient ruins bathed in the gentle warmth of the sun or savouring traditional Albanian delights amidst blooming wildflowers. Spring (April to June) offers a burst of colors, ideal for exploring historical sites without the crowds. Alternatively, the golden hues of autumn (September to October) paint a picturesque backdrop for hiking in the Albanian Alps or strolling along the Adriatic coast. These seasons not only showcase Albania's beauty but also allow you to connect with its rich culture in a more intimate setting.
HOW TO GET THERE
Though not the most well-connected, Albania is accessible through flights to its capital, Tirana. From the airport, 4-euro buses conveniently transport you to key locations, including the city center and the South/North Bus Terminal, in about half an hour. The latter is where most people catch buses to other cities / towns of the country, and is where we boarded our bus from Tirana to Sarandë. Despite the chaotic terminal, friendly drivers readily assist you in finding the right buses. Look for the huge board at the entrance which states the timetable and the line of booths selling tickets. Commuting around Albania can be challenging; our five-hour bus journey from Tirana to Sarandë (our base for exploring the south), while decently priced (15 euros), had quite an irregular schedules, and was uncomfortable, with broken seats and no A/C.
DATA & CONNECTIVITY
Albania is often not covered by most European roaming plans, but we found it convenient to buy a sim card. At the airport, you can grab a local SIM card from Vodafone for just 25 euros, unlocking 40 GB of data for a breezy 14-day exploration. It also worked well in all parts of Albania, however, don’t rely on it for cross-border travel as we had troubles in North Macedonia, where we went next, and Vodafone customer service were unhelpful when we reached out for support on the matter either.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Now, let's talk transportation. Buses might be an option, you can find them at central bus stations in each town (on Google Maps), but they're slow and scarce. Consider renting a car, though costs and the stress of narrow roads may outweigh the convenience. For instance, it was quite pricey to have different pick up and drop off points, and the gas would have cost about 80 euros just for the trip from Tirana to Sarandë.
I would personally recommend opting for taxis instead. Sure, there's a bit of haggling involved, but we snagged a sweet deal – 100 euros for a full day of exploration with a private driver. Trust me, it's worth every penny for the freedom to soak in the scenic beauty without the hassle. The average benchmark we found there was about 40 euros for an hour-long drive.
WHERE TO STAY
I recommend setting your base in Sarandë, a vibrant beach town buzzing with life. Affordable stays are abundant, like the Airbnb gem we snagged for £25 a night, boasting a stunning sea view. If tranquility is your game, consider Ksamil – a smaller, quieter haven perfect for beach bums. From the town centre, you will find yourself just a 10 minute walk to multiple sandy shores and beach bars, making it an ideal spot for your sun-soaked escapade.
WHERE TO VISIT
Beaches
Gjirokaster
Picture-perfect Gjirokaster beckons just an hour's drive from Sarandë. This UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts enchanting stone architecture and a formidable fortress. Spend a leisurely 2-3 hours strolling around the cobbled streets, browsing the shops and cafes, and visiting the castle, which has a museum, a prison, and a panoramic view of the town and the mountains (the entrance fee is 4 euros per person).
The Blue Eye
The Blue Eye is a natural spring that creates a deep blue pool in the middle of a forest. It is about half an hour drive from Gjirokaster or Sarandë, and you can either walk (30 minutes) or rent a scooter (5 euros) to get there from the last accessible point for vehicles. While the spot is very popular, so you might have to wait for a good photo opportunity, the beautiful contrast between the deep blue water and its green surroundings was definitely a sight to behold.
Ksamil
Don't miss Ksamil - if you only had one day to spare, I’d recommend spending it here. Beyond its sun-kissed beaches, Ksamil boasts a culinary scene to tantalize your taste buds. Indulge in fresh seafood at local eateries before soaking in mesmerizing views of Corfu across the channel. As dusk falls, immerse yourself in the vibrant beach club scene for a night to remember.
Lekursit Castle
Ascend to Lekursit Castle for a charming retreat atop a a hill, a short hike or drive (7-min) from the Center of Sarandë. This quaint fortress exudes Mamma Mia vibes - I’d recommend unwinding at the cozy café nestled within its walls, savouring coffee with a side of panoramic sea views.
Sarandë
Butrint National Park
Butrint National Park is yet another UNESCO World Heritage site which brings the best of nature and history together. It showcases beautiful ancient ruins and a well-preserved amphitheater nestled within a expansive salt lagoon. The park's historical resonance lies not only in its architectural marvels but also in its ability to chronicle the continuous interplay of different cultures throughout the centuries, having been initially built by the ancient Greeks but also influenced by the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans over 2500 years.
WHERE TO EAT
I have only good things to say about the culinary experiences I had in Albania - staff were hospitable and more than willing to give recommendations, food was fresh and well-cooked (rather than luxurious perfection, think homely and authentic local flavours).
Grill Zone
Location: Rruga Butrinti, Ksamil 9706 | Rating: 8 out of 10
Haxhi
Location: Rruga 40 Shenjtorët, Sarandë | Rating: 7 out of 10
Overlooking the sea in Sarandë, Haxhi offered a cozy vibe and seafood worth savoring. While no dish was mind-blowing, everything was fresh, affordable and expertly cooked. Plus, the service and ambiance made it an experience to remember. Just remember your cash, as plastic won't cut it here!
Local Bakeries
And let's not forget the town bakeries! Treat yourself to an array of affordable delights, especially the Burek, a savoury pastry beloved in Albanian cuisine. Picture delicate layers of hand-rolled dough embracing a hearty filling of minced meat, onions, and spices, baked to golden perfection. It's a taste of tradition you won't soon forget.
Albania might not be your first thought for a European getaway, but trust me, it's a game-changer. Skip the tourist traps and dive into authentic local life, from culture to cuisine. It's an adventure you won't soon forget! And if you're feeling adventurous, peek into neighbouring North Macedonia [upcoming post] for even more travel inspiration!
The home for unique & authentic travel
