2 Soto de Valdeón 

3 Majada de Argolla - basic stone shelter   

6 Refugio Vegabaño 

7 Roblon de Cuesta Fria - ancient oak tree 

8 fountain / fuente

9 Refugio del Frade    

10 Refugio Vega Huerta   

11 Horcada Jou de las Pozas - big cairn on saddle   

12 high point on this rocky section  

13 Refugio Vegarredonda  

26 Refugio Vega de Ario 

14 'Ario' painted on rock  

15 fossils in rocks 

16 big cairn at top of climb 

17 big cairn at path junction  

18 top of stone chute 

19 grassy saddle east of Vega d'Aliseda 

20 jink in trail - route unclear - bear north around side of hill  

21 cairn 

22 cairn at bottom of hollow 

23 big hole - mind the edge 

24 water trough for cattle 

25 path junction  

27 signpost 

28 cairn and green pole at top of Canal de Trea - Collau las Cruces  

29 descent route to north side of prominent ridge 

30 base of big overhanging cliff 

31 path / track junction in Cares Gorge

32 locked hut and path junction   

33 footbridge 

34 cave 

35 Collau de Cerredu ridge  

36 ridge - join path going uphill 

37 scramble traverse across rock face 

38 10m rope section 

39 rope section 

40 Refugio Jou de los Cabrones - water fountain 

41 col 

42 big colourful pole 

43 path junction - choice of routes - left is easier - right involves scrambling  

44 Horcada Arenera - col at 2273m  

45 Via Ferrata down gully  

46 Refugio Vega de Urriellu 

47 drop down into big bowl 

48 danger sign about missing via ferrata cables between Horcados Rojos and Jou de los Boches  

49 saddle between the two big hollows 

50 very steep, tricky scramble  

51 top of steep scramble 

52 join indistinct trail 

53 cairn at start of scree slope descent 

54 IMPORTANT PATH JUNCTION - go up not down  

55 cairn 

56 choice of routes to get onto ridge  

57 join path descending from other col 

58 Cabaña Veronica

59 top of steep 10m scramble up chimney 

60 low point - now follow trail across scree slope 

61 path junction for Fuente Escondida

62 col at 2352m 

63 pass top of rocky promontory  

64 red paint splodge on rock  

65 Refugio Collado Jermoso  

66 head north round shoulder of hill  

67 signpost for refugio and start of big steep descent 

68 signpost in Vega L' Asotin  

69 start of via ferrata 

70 car park 

71 road 

72 fuente 

73 fuente 

1 Posada de Valdeón - fountain in village square  

Seven-day trek based in refugios.

INTRODUCTION
The Picos de Europa is a region of limestone peaks reaching over 2500 metres above sea level; the highest being Torre de Cerredo at 2650 metres. The route described here is one that I hiked alone in early summer. The best time to tackle the route is between June and September. There is more likely to be snow on the high passes in early June but they are usually not to difficult to negotiate. 

The Picos de Europa is not as well known as the Pyrenees or Alps and as such the hiker traffic is less and the tourist infrastructure is less developed. This makes the area feel less spoilt but it can also make it a more challenging area to explore with fewer trails and little to no signposting. Always take a map with you: the Editorial Alpina 1:25,000 maps are the best. I took these and also used the outdooractive app and downloaded the relevant map tiles. This is useful for pinpointing where you are, in what can be confusing terrain. I was lucky to have clear weather for my entire trek but I would imagine that it's pretty difficult to navigate when the cloud is down on the mountains so take a compass too.

You can stay in refugios every night on this hike and wild camping is permitted above 1500m; details below.

I can't recommend the Picos de Europa as a hiking destination enough. The mountains are magnificent but there are also beautiful extensive woodlands at lower altitudes, as well as meadows full of wildflowers and butterflies. The juxtaposition between the stark limestone peaks and the gentle greenery of the valleys is beguiling. 

DISCLAIMER: Please note that hiking in the Picos de Europa is not risk free. It is a very challenging area in which to hike. I accept no responsibility for any accidents you may experience while hiking this route. You are responsible for your own safety. Some of the dangers and difficulties are listed a little further down this guide.

HOW BUSY?
Unlike some of the more well know hikes around Europe this trail is less well trodden and as such the trail can be quite hard to follow at times, and at other times there is no trail! Despite this, refugios, being small, fill up fast (see below).

REFUGIOS
The hike is made easier if you stay in the staffed refugios where you can recharge your metaphorical batteries. Accommodation at these mountain huts is in communal dormitories and you will need to bring your own sleeping bag. It's best to book ahead as they are often full throughout the summer. Prices are around the €12-17 mark and they also do affordable meals (breakfast, picnic lunch and dinner). 

There is also a handful of unstaffed, very basic mountain shelters with no services and no beds but these can be a good option in an emergency. Most of the refugios only accept cash so be sure to take plenty with you before you set off as there are no ATMs! All the refugios on the route are listed in the route description below with website links.

WILD CAMPING
Camping is only permitted at 1500m above sea level or higher. There is not much water anywhere above this altitude so be sure to fill up when you get the chance (at refugios) before camping in a remote spot.

POSADA DE VALDEON
This beautiful village tucked in the valley between the Macizo Central and Macizo Occidental is a lovely place to wander for a few hours. At the centre of the village there are a number of restaurants and bars and a small square with a water fountain. If you need somewhere to stay before or after the trek you'll find hotels, guest houses and a youth hostel. There is a hotel recommendation and link in the route description. 

In the centre of the village is a pharmacy should you need any blister plasters! And on the road to the west of the village is the National Park office where you can find information about hiking and anything else to do with the national park. 

GETTING THERE
From the UK there are Ryanair flights to Oviedo (Asturias airport) from London Stansted. A bit further afield you can get flights to Bilbao and Santander from the UK and the rest of Europe. Getting from the airport is a little complicated but there are buses to Posada de Valdeón from Oviedo changing in Cangas de Onis. The journey takes about 4.5hrs. There are also buses from Santander and Bilbao changing in Llanes and Riaño with the journey taking around 15hrs from Bilbao. 

An easier but more expensive option is to get a taxi. You could also hire a car but of course you will have to leave the car sitting idle in Posada de Valdeón while you do the hike. 

FLORA & FAUNA
This area of northern Spain is fantastic for wildlife. At lower elevations the beech and sessile oak woodland stretches for miles over rolling hills. This is part of the boreal forest that once would have covered much of Europe and is home to roe deer, wild boar, red squirrels, pine martens and brown bears.

In the skies you have a good chance of seeing griffon vultures, golden, booted and short-toed eagles, black kites and peregrines. Of the smaller passerine species the Picos are home to red-backed shrikes, black redstarts, spotted flycatchers and black woodpeckers.

But it's the wildflowers in the meadows and on the woodland edges that are the real joy and most easily appreciated. Vetches, cinquefoils and orchids create a colourful patchwork of colours with butterflies bringing the whole scene to life. Look out for swallowtails, fritillaries and hairstreaks.

NAVIGATION
Navigation is difficult as the terrain can be confusing and in many places there is no trail whatsoever.  Take a map (1:25K Editiorial Alpina maps are the best), compass and GPS and know how to use them. It's also a good idea to download the map on a relevant map app. I used the outdooractive app but others are available.

WEATHER
Thunderstorms are common, usually in the afternoon and these can be particularly dangerous high up in the mountains. It's best to hike early and get to a refugio by lunchtime if there are afternoon thunderstorms in the forecast. The weather in this part of Spain is very changeable as it has a maritime climate. Rain and thick fog are possible but equally long periods of warm sunshine are not unusual. The best advice I can offer is to be prepared for anything. Pack suncream and a sunhat but don't forget your waterproofs either.

FALLING ROCKS
Rock falls are not unusual as chamois and other hikers can dislodge rocks above you. Getting caught in a rockfall is not so common but not impossible. Be aware and if you see rocks heading your way, and cannot find cover, crouch down on the floor and pull your rucksack over your head and back.

DRINKING WATER
There is very little running water as these mountains are mostly comprised of permeable limestone. You will need to take plenty of water with you each day (I packed three litres every day and usually drank it all). You can fill up at the refugios and there are a few fountains / fuentes although most of the ones I saw marked on the Editorial Alpina map were dry when I found them.

THE SUN
Sunburn and sunstroke are both real dangers and there is little shade. Keep hydrated and wear a sun hat that covers your neck.

TERRAIN
In some places you need to scramble up steep rocky sections. You will need to have experience in this kind of terrain and have a head for heights! The terrain is very rocky and uneven at higher altitudes so you will need strong, sturdy footwear. Trekking poles are also invaluable in providing support and helping you across and up awkward sections. There is also a lot of steep ascent and descent on this route so you will need to be reasonably fit.

DANGEROUS ANIMALS
On many parts of the trail you will encounter cows. In my experience they are very docile and used to trekkers so they shouldn't be of any concern. You may also find flocks of sheep and while these aren't dangerous they are often accompanied by shepherd dogs which have been trained to keep intruders away from the flock. They can be quite intimidating when they start barking at you. If you see sheep ahead it is best to give them a wide berth, even if this means veering away from the trail for a while. If you walk directly towards or through a flock of sheep you risk agitating the shepherd dogs.

Bears are not common in the Picos de Europa but there are bears in other parts of the Cantabrian Mountains, notably Somiedo National Park, not far to the west, and there is always the possibility of seeing an itinerant bear wandering through the Picos. Eurasian brown bears are not as big nor aggressive as the grizzly bears of North America so you shouldn't worry too much about an encounter. It's extremely unlikely you will see one so if you do, consider yourself very lucky.

Wild boar are common in the woodlands at lower altitudes. They are not as aggressive as some people will tell you and tend to be nocturnal. I did see some in the daytime near Vegabaño. As soon as they saw me they ran away, crashing through the undergrowth. As with any large animal it's best to simply give them plenty of space to move away from you.

I hope none of this advice puts you off hiking in the Picos de Europa. Yes, it's a challenging mountain area but the rewards for hiking here are great. Enjoy the hike!





 

Asturias, Spain

Picos de Europa National Park, Oviedo, Spain

León, Spain

Picos de Europa, Spain

Cantabria, Spain

Spain

Picos de Europa - 7 day hiking guide

Refugio Diego Mella / Collado Jermoso

Refugio de Montaña Vegabaño

Restaurante Les Bedules

Refugio de la Terenosa (1.300 m.)

Hotel Áliva

Refugio Vega de Ario (1630 m.)

Lakes of Covadonga

Bar Mirador Lallende

Supermercado La Ruta

Sanctuary of Covadonga

Oviedo

ALSA

Bar Restaurante Mª Rosa

A comprehensive guide to a trek through all 3 Massifs of the Picos de Europa with lodging planned in the refugios (mountain refuges/huts).

Duration: 5 days / 4 nights
Distance: 77km (48mi)
Elevation: +7,800m (25,700ft) / -7,600m (24,850ft) 
Difficulty: High
Cost: $

What this guide includes:
-day-by-day itinerary with distances, elevations, unique features, and a description of the route
-Custom GPX file with route and waypoints
-Links and info to book refugios
--First hand experience from the trek
-Practical info: how to get to/from using public transport, trail conditions, local knowledge, weather conditions, potential threats, and more!

Ruta del Cares, Spain

Oviedo, Spain

Picos de Europa - 5 Day Hut-to-Hut Backpacking Trek 

La Duquesita

La Barraca

Casa Dani

1862 Dry Bar

The Madrid EDITION

Bilbao

Museo Nacional del Prado

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

Restaurante Cenador de Amós

Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum

Corral de la Morería

Café Central

Mercado de San Miguel

Mercado de la Paz

COCOL

Sinagoga del Tránsito

Getaria

Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga

Txubillo

Beach of La Concha

Bar Sport

Bilbao la Vieja

Azkuna Zentroa (Alhóndiga Bilbao)

Erriberako merkatua

Txacoli Museum

Rio-Oja Restaurant

Santiago de Compostela

Lume

Primera Playa del Sardinero

Santander

Gijón

Restaurante Güeyu Mar

Comillas

CoolRooms Palacio de Luces

Anchoas Hazas (anchoas del Cantábrico)

Restaurante Pepe Vieira

Madrid

Toledo

Donostia-San Sebastian

Sala de Despiece

Canfranc-Estación

Hotel Lasala Plaza

Hotel Ercilla de Bilbao, Autograph Collection

Gaztelugatxe (aka Dragon Stone)

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Hotel Chiqui Santander

Santillana del Mar

As Catedrais beach

Abastos 2.0

Hotel Palacio del Carmen, Autograph Collection

Pepe Vieira Relais & Châteaux

Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

A two and a half week visit starting in Madrid and followed by a road-trip across northern Spain crossing the Aragon, Navara, Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia regions.  This was an adult-only trip that focused on enjoying the best experiences and finest ingredients across the various regions.  Hotels on this itinerary are high to very high end.  There are some Bonvoy hotels included because loyalty programs work!

Seeing the changes between regions was fascinating.  The physical landscapes ranged from semi arid with huge sunflower fields dotting the highway, to mountain ranges that were mixed in the distance with clouds, to rolling green hills and banging coast line with surfers, families and friends enjoying the beautiful beaches all along the way.

Galicia was the sleeper hit for us.  The whole north coast of Spain is quieter than Malaga, Valencia etc. and Galicia is heavy on domestic tourism.  Galicia is also a great add on for those visiting Portugal.  

Spain (Madrid & Northern Coast)

Somiedo Natural Park

Redes Natural Park

Parque Nacional de Los Picos de Europa

Lago del Valle

Guadamía beach

Playa del Silencio

Gulpiyuri

Ribadesella

Cudillero

Tazones

Roble by Jairo Rodríguez

Casa Basilio

Sella River

Parque Natural Las Ubiñas-La Mesa

Playa de Poo

Playa de Rodiles

Playa de Cue

Playa de Ballota

Playa de Andrín

Playa de Peñarronda

Playa de Cuevas del Mar

Tito Bustillo Cave

MUMI Museum of Mining and Industry

Hotel Derli Sella

Gran Hotel del Sella

Hotel Villadesella

Hotel Ribadesella Playa

Hotel El Jardín de Eugenia

Hotel El Carmen

Núcleo de turismo Rural La Corte

Hotel Rural Somiedo

Casa Miño

Hostal Parador Peñavera

Castillo Del Alba

Parador de Cangas de Onis

María Manuela Hotel & Spa

Hotel Cerro La Nina

Hotel Mirador La Cepada

El Pandal

Soho Boutique Oviedo

Barceló Oviedo Cervantes

Eurostars Hotel de La Reconquista

Eurostars Palacio de Cristal

Gran Hotel España

Mesón El Centro

Bar Blanco Restaurante

Restaurante Bar El Pañol

Mar de Llanes

Restaurante Casa Tino

Sidrería El Maldito

Secreto a Voces

Asturias is a mountainous and coastal region in the North of Spain that is well known amongst Spaniards for it's natural beauty, incredible hikes, natural beaches and delicious food. 

It's a different side of Spain, a far cry from the Mediterranean beaches and extravagant parties most international tourists know, but in my opinion, it's the best Spain has to offer. It is relatively unknown amongst international tourists.

This guide to Asturias is the result of my experience traveling multiple times to this region and dozens of hours of research. It has all the information you will need to travel to this part of the world and save you hours and hours of planning and stress.

I have included numerous recommendations on natural parks, hikes, beaches, towns and other places to visit, as well as 15+ accomodation and eating-out options in different areas of Asturias.

Most importantly, I have included information on how to get to Asturias and how to move around the region, currency, travel safety, and visa and entry requirements so you don't have to be too bothered by the logistics. I've got you covered!

This guide is divided into sections so you can read the entire guide or go to the sections that interest you the most.

It also includes an interactive map and it's mobile-friendly, so you can access all the info on your phone when you download the thatch app, and, most importantly, this is a living guide, so I'll update this at no extra cost to you.

Ultimate Asturias travel guide 🇪🇦

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