Tandem Piazza del Gesù

"A native Neapolitan filled me in when he recommended Tandem for lunch after a visit to the Veiled Christ in the Sanseverino Chapel. He declared it the best ragù he had ever tasted, a bold statement that could offend generations of Neapolitan nonnas. Tandem’s entire menu orbits around ragù, a slow-simmered stew of crushed tomatoes and fatty or tough meat like pork shoulder, sausages, and meatballs. Italian-Americans call this most beloved of grandma’s dishes red sauce or Sunday gravy. If pizza is the heart of Neapolitan cuisine, then ragù is its soul. Founded by Manuela Mirabile, who wanted to pay homage to her Neapolitan grandparents’ ragù, the menu honors tradition while offering surprising extras for gluten-free guests, like seitan instead of pasta. The ragù is rich with the meat flavor and is a Pompeiian red achieved with lots of tomato paste. My favorite menu permutation is adding a large spoonful of fresh ricotta cheese to soften the sharp acidity of the peerless Neapolitan tomatoes. You can make a reservation or get there early (before 8 pm). I also really love the meatballs covered in Genovese sauce. "