Chamula

""San Juan Chamula, offers visitors a unique cultural experience steeped in tradition and spirituality. Renowned for its distinctive customs and rituals Chamula invites travelers to witness ancient ceremonies inside its centuries-old church, where locals blend Catholicism with indigenous beliefs. The Chamula are the most populous indigenous group in the area (population 75000). Their religious and political organization is very strict and holding a governmental position like governor, mayor, policeman or scribe is a high honor that is earned through personal merit. The “ilole” or healers (men or women) are not chosen, their wisdom is acquired since childhood and their power from San Juan. The village of San Juan Chamula has three neighborhoods: San Pedrito, San Juan and San Sebastian. Each one has it’s own graveyard with two gigantic crosses presiding over them that represent Chul Metic (Mother God) and Chul Totic (Father God). The central plaza holds the important events like the market, civic elections, political meetings and religious ceremonies. On the back of the plaza rises the temple with it’s grand atrium. The church is sober, with a great wooden portal that only opens during the Saint’s feast. Everything is guarded by the “mayoles” or policemen, that wear a “Chuck”, a thick-wooled white tunic and a iron-hard wooden stick. It is prohibited for visitors to take pictures or behave in an uncomely manner. The access to the church is regulated and a fee must be paid. The temple’s only illumination is by candle light and it possesses a mysterious air strengthened by the copal and myrrh incense burning. The floor is covered by coco-grass. The devotees attend church dressed in their indigenous costume, with golden-lined capes and a mirror on the chest, some also wear necklaces with medallions. The side walls of the temple hold in various niches, the carved statues of the saints, and those who have not responded to the prayers of the faithful are turned backwards. In the main altar Saint John is found with a sheep in his arms and Little Saint John by his side, protector of the laborers that work in faraway plantations. Many Chamula are seated on the floor with different colored candles, depending on their petition and they they pray out loud with demands or cries. In some groups an “ilol” can be seen leading the rite with a sacrificial hen, so the animal can take the evil away. They have soda bottles and hollow gourds filled with “pox”, their ceremonial moonshine. All this unique mystery-filled mysticism is impressive. It holds faith and hope. It’s about a different universe, the essence of the indigenous world that has survived. Coexisting with this ancestral culture is a privilege that invites us to meditate on the importance of respecting the diversity of the human populations than inhabit our world and preserving their identities, immune to progress. It bears questioning, who is right? Who is happier and more satisfied? Who will survive? Activities in San Juan Chamula Visit the town’s market Visit the San Juan temple A walk through the village Contact with the Totzil Mayan people This is a small and simple village that comes to attention because of the beauty of it’s main temple and it’s intense and diverse indigenous population, composed of tzeltales and tzotziles. Visiting the temple is worth the trip. San Juan Chamula is found 10km northeast of San Cristobal de las Casas, through a land road. "

"Chamula's religious practices are a syncretism of Catholicism and ancient Maya beliefs. The local church, Iglesia de San Juan, is a prime example where this blend is most evident. Inside, Catholic saints are venerated alongside indigenous rituals. The church lacks pews and has a floor covered in pine needles, with candles and incense creating a mystical atmosphere. The entrance is 30 mx pesos each person. If you understand spanish i would recommend a local guide for better understanding of what´s going on. (200 mx pesos)."