Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio

"To reach Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio from Corso di Porta Romana, I suggest you walk to Via Torino at the height of Via Palla and take the tram number 3 direction Gratosoglio until the stop Piazza XXIV Maggio. You will pass beside the beautiful Colonne di S.Lorenzo. From Piazza XXIV Maggio, you walk about 1 minute and you reach the Basilica. The first impressive legend is that this church holds the remains of the Three Kings that visited baby Jesus bringing gifts when he was born. It is said that Bishop Eustorgio received the Three Kings' relics around the year 350 AC from the son of Constantin, Costanzo, in Constantinopole and decided to build the church that later got his name to preserve the relics. On the top of the bell tower, a star with 8 points was the sign for the pilgrims that in that church they could prey the Three Kings. During the XII century, Fredrick Barbarossa took the relics away and put them in the Köln Cathedral, not all but only a part of them only came back to Milan in 1903 after many negotiations between Germany and Italy. Not far from the Church, Specifically in Piazza Sant'Eustorgio at the number 8, there is a house with an inscription that says that inside is preserved the first baptismal font. It is said that Saint Barnaba was baptising the first Christians outside the roman walls to avoid the sight of the pagan statues that were abundant inside the city. He found this spring that was said was prodigious and started to preach Christianity and baptise the believers. The baptismal font fell in disuse after the XIII century and was used as lavatory, only in the year 1623 Federico Borromeo decided to build a church later demolished in the year 1844. Today, the baptismal (and probably healing?) font is preserved in a private house and you will be able only to see the sign on the wall were a part of the story is told. Continuing with other traditions, it is imperative to mention Cappella Portinari, to visit this interesting example of the Renaissance that comprehends masterpieces from Vincenzo Foppa that depict scenes from Mary's life and from the life of Saint Peter Martyr, a Saint particularly dear to Pigello Portinari, the banker who commissioned the chapel. The decorations of the chapel was hidden under 7 layers of plaster during the terrible plague of 1630 and only restored in 1952. On the right side there is a peculiar fresco that can be noticed: A Virgin Mary holding a baby Jesus both with devilish horns. This scene refers to the Miracle of the False Madonna: Saint Peter Martyr is celebrating the Mass when the devil decides to take the looks of the Virgin but forgets to hide the horns, the Saint exorcises him by showing the consecrated host. In the middle of Cappella Portinari you can see the beautiful masterpiece of gothic art: the ark that holds the tomb of Saint Peter Martyr. The ark was built by Giovanni di Balduccio in 1336 and is enriched by statues and reliefs that depict the life of the saint and allegories like Faith, Charity, Hope, etc. The legend says that in the XIV century Archbishop Matteo Visconti asked Balduccio to create a beautiful ark to hold the remains of the Saint but he wanted to hold the head close to him. From that day the archbishop started to suffer from bad headaches that lasted until he brought back the head near the body of the martyr. Now you can see the head on the left of the chapel. Every last Sunday of April, every year, people can come to Sant'Eustorgio, to "battere la testa" (hit the head) on the marble arch of the ark to prevent headache. The head of Peter is exposed in a crystal case and the worshippers can rub an object on it with the same purpose. This church and the surroundings offer really interesting stories and are definitely worth a visit, even if there is a ticket to pay to enter Cappella Portinari (€ 12)."

"Discover this lesser-known church with stunning architecture, ancient relics, and a peaceful atmosphere."