Antica Trattoria della Pesa

Enter the charming neighborhood of Brera and you’ll soon forget all thoughts of the drab, industrialist Milan. Bohemian grit began to fill the cracks between the uneven cobblestone streets here after WWII, and by the 1960s, the local cafes and galleries brimmed with neorealist filmmakers and designers vying for the Compasso d’Oro award. Due north from Milan’s tourist-filled Duomo and past the storied La Scala, austere, modern palazzos make way for colorful residential buildings, their balconies overflowing with succulents, wisteria and honeysuckle. The name Brera comes from the Lombard word ‘Braida’ which means ‘green space.’ Once a fishing village where boats arrived on canals into Milan from the Northern lakes, today it is considered the most bourgeois neighborhood in Milan. To experience a hint of old-world Brera is to shop at the weekly outdoor mercato on Via San Marco, notable for its colorful, overflowing bouquets, ample fresh fish selection, multiple produce stands and Italian fashion staples such as leather gloves and cashmere sweaters. On the winding pedestrian streets, worthwhile boutiques and vintage shops are mixed with tourist-hungry restaurants (to be avoided – I recommend the old-school trattoria tucked away nearby). Brera freshly exhibits a new generation of designers and concept boutiques, and admiration of the supermodel-esque locals. Although more recently famous as a creative’s haven in the 1960s, Brera has for centuries attracted artists and designers who came to study at the art academy within the internationally celebrated museum Pinacoteca di Brera. Soon after it opened, Napoleon, the newly crowned King of Italy, is said to have intended the Pinacoteca to become the Louvre of Italy (Antonio Canova’s colossal marble statue of the monarch sits at the center of the palazzo courtyard today). To follow in the brushstrokes of the prestigious academy’s centuries of attendees is to shop at the historic art supply and print shop Ditta Crespi or flip through the engraved leather journal selection at Pettinaroli.

A curated yet comprehensive collection of my favorite addresses in Milan after living here. Travelers tend to skip over Milan because it’s not as charming on the surface as classic Italian cities such as Rome and Venice. Milan is a place that slowly reveals itself if you know just where to go to discover its hidden beauty. With the right addresses in hand, delve beneath Milan’s exterior and explore the city’s many highlights beyond Gucci and the iconic Duomo. This guide includes: 🚋 Milan travel essentials including helpful logistics and transportation trips 🏩 Places to stay | luxury, boutique, and budget options 🍽️ Places to eat | a mix of casual and elevated spots for breakfast, lunch, and dinner 🖼️ Things to do | shops, sights, museums/galleries beyond the Duomo and Galleria 🚗 Day trip ideas The only Milan guide you’ll need whether it’s for a quick day trip or an extended stay for fashion week. Each handpicked recommendation includes a description with insights based on personal experience and insider travel industry intel. Check the guide or use the interactive map to look through my curated recommendations. It’s mobile-friendly and easy to use on the go. This is a living guide. Shop now for lifetime access to future updates including new places and deeper insights without paying more later!

My favorite restaurants and places.