A Budget Friendly Weekend in Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure
Portofino is located on the Italian Riviera, and sits on a peninsula in the Ligurian coast. Portofino looks like something out of a dream and is commonly considered the "most luxurious town in Italy". Do you want to know the secret the visiting Portofino on a budget? Avoid Portofino.
Here's what I mean by this: don't stay in Portofino, don't dine in Portofino, don't shop in Portofino. Rather, do all of these things in Santa Margherita Ligure. Santa Margherita Ligure is the town directly east of Portofino and offers the same exact things for half of the price.
Day One:
Arrival in Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure offers the closest train station to Portofino, which is why I recommend this town being your hub for the weekend. Airbnb has amazing options here and often come at a fraction of the price of a hotel. Santa Margherita Ligure is also home to public beaches, piazzas for shopping, and a great nightlife.
From the train station, I recommend checking into your accommodation first. From here, we'll pick up some booze before heading to the water to catch a sunset cruise.
Sunset Cruise
The perfect way to start your weekend is on a sunset cruise, and my friends at MyRapallo have exactly what you're looking for. When I visited in the summer of 2022, being on a boat was my #1 priority while in town. I came across a listing for a $200, 5-hour sunset cruise with a guide named Matteo. Little did I know how great of a decision I'd made by choosing Matteo's charter. Matteo was extremely personable and welcoming, and allowed us to bring any food or drink that we wanted. He asked us what we wanted to do/what we wanted to see, and exceeded all expectations throughout our cruise.
Matteo and his brothers own MyRapallo, a private chartering company that takes guests out on full-day excursions, tours, or sunset cruises. And if this says anything about their expertise - they were hired to charter the Kardashians into Portofino for Kourtney's wedding in 2022. MyRapallo was amazing and I could say endless good things about them, but you get the point.
For more information on MyRapallo, check out their website below:
Dinner & Drinks
After your cruise is over, its time to hit the town. Santa Margherita Ligure offers some great restaurants and bars. And if you are a fan of seafood, this region of Italy offers some of the best. My favorites are listed below:
Restaurants:
Bars:
Day Two:
Today will be spent exploring Portofino, lounging on the beach, and finishing with a big night at the disco. Let's get started.
Santa Margherita Ligure ➜ Portofino
Getting from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino can be confusing, and you are given three options on how you do it:
Option One: Taxi - a taxi to Portofino costs roughly €30 each way. This is the most expensive option, but worth it in my opinion. Catching a taxi gives you the quickest route and extreme flexibility on where you get dropped off. A taxi also lets you to leave the earliest, allowing you to get one step ahead of the crowds.
Option Two: Ferry - there is a ferry that runs between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure. A one way ticket will cost about €6 per person. Ferries run fairly frequently and begin operations at 9am. This option is cost-efficient, with the only downside being the crowds. Sometimes you won't be able to sit down, and sometimes you might have to wait longer to board a ferry due to the crowds.
Option Three: Public bus - there are public buses that run between the two towns. Although I've never personally used them, Matteo told us to avoid them at all costs. The only reason that I am adding this to the guide is because tickets are €1.50 each way. The buses get super crowded and run on a very inconsistent schedule.
Exploring Portofino
It is best to arrive in Portofino early around 10am. This is a good way to beat crowds and enjoy the streets to yourself. Another recommendation is to grab a croissant and cappuccino at Cafe Excelsior upon arrival.
From here, the rest of your day is up to you. The public part of Portofino is only made up of a few streets, so I've included some things below that are outside of the main town.
Beaches in Portofino
If you're looking to catch some rays, Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure offer a wide range of beaches. Some of these beaches are private and some are public. The most expensive beach in the area is Baia di Paraggi, with half-day rentals starting at €100.
Unfortunately for Portofino, that's about it for beaches. Luckily, Santa Margherita Ligure has you covered. There is an abundance of beaches located alone the coast. The majority of beaches offer rentals starting at €20 for a half day. There are a few free beaches that I have listed below.
Saturday Night in Portofino: Covo di Nord Est
If you're up for some clubbing, you've got a big night ahead. We heading to Covo di Nord Est. Covo di Nord Est is an old castle turned restaurant/nightclub. During the day, Covo is one of the most exclusive and expensive restaurants in the area, and it is easy to see why. But once the sun is down, this spot turns into one of my favorite nightclubs in the world. This nightclub offers panoramic views of the Ligurian sea and drinks that only cost €8. Covo di Nord is open from 12am-6am every Saturday night.
The entry into Covo can be complicated and competitive. Our pro tip? Go with Matteo (our boat captain, mentioned earlier). Although if you didn't cruise with Matteo, you aren't out of luck. The entry is strict, but it is still possible. Covo di Nord offers tickets online that you can request beforehand, they offer raffles and giveaways, or you can show up and wait in line. If you choose to wait in line, entry is not guarenteed.
Day Three:
Today is open for whatever your heart desires. If you are looking for plans on this day, you're welcome to choose one of my recommendations from earlier in the guide or you can check out nearby towns.
Rapallo is the town located next to Santa Margherita Ligure, and offers a large downtown center with a few landmarks. Cinque Terre is also 30 minutes away by train, and it is possible to see all of Cinque Terre in one day. My guide to Cinque Terre in one day is listed below:
If you are planning a trip to Portofino or Italy in general, feel free to contact us via Instagram. We’d be happy to answer any questions or concerns that you may have prior to traveling.
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Thank you for reading through this guide and happy traveling!
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