17 Days in Morocco - Sightseeing, Hiking & Surfing.
What To Do - Our Itinerary.
Colorful Marrakesh - days 1-3
When visiting Morocco, you cannot miss the city of Marrakesh. Culture, architecture, food, the business of this city, and its Medina (the old town) have a great energy despite the Morrocan heat. In Marrakesh, we spent 4 days in total which was enough for us but there was still more to explore.
Places to Visit
Medina - the heart of the city, with medieval colorful buildings, markets, many tiny shops, clothes, jewelry, and others. Great for buying souvenirs and exploring the local busy culture.
Ibn Youssef School - Islamic medresa from the 16th century, my favorite building in Marrakesh.
Jardin Majorelle - colorful garden, quite crowded but pretty.
Koutoubia - mosque further from the center surrounded by orange trees.
El Badi Palace - a very big palace on the outskirts of Medina - very old, sandy walls with many storks hanging around. We were there basically alone and it was amazing.
Jemaa el-Fna - the busiest spot in Marrakesh and maybe in the whole of Morroco. Singers, performers, shops, and street sellers create a huge melting pot of Morrocan culture, however, it is also a great spot for being tricked as a tourist. Be careful!
Bahia Palace - a pretty and colorful building with a water fountain in the middle.
Some Tips for Food, Drinks & Fun in Marrakesh
Marrakesh Pros and Cons
Pros: a vibrant city, cultural base, many accommodation & food options, colorful architecture, walkable city centre
Cons: many different scents - even got a headache out of it, loud, hot, many tourist traps
For us, 4 days in Marrakesh were more than enough for exploring the main spots, getting some great food, and getting used to the Morrocan culture. It is a great city, however, it can also be a bit overwhelming. After Marrakesh, we were ready for some nature getaway.
The Hike to Jebel Toubkal - days 4-6
Mount Toubkal is the highest peak in Morocco and North Africa. The mountain range Atlas is very different from our mountains in Europe, therefore we decided to experience it properly and booked a three-day hike with the Aztat Treks Agency (having a guide is mandatory).
The whole hike cost 220 EUR per person and included:
- transfer from Marrakesh to Imlil and back,
- English-speaking guide- drinking water for the whole trip
- food three times a day (basic but delicious and nutritious meals)
- overnight accommodation in two mountain refuges
- mules (that carried the heavy stuff such as the food supplies and sleeping bags)
- for an additional charge we rented some hiking sticks and sleeping bags
Hike to Mt. Toubkal with our guide Ibrahim from Aztat Treks was such an amazing once-in-a-lifetime experience. It was not easy - we climbed over 1000 height meters every day, most of the day in the sun. However, reaching the top with mesmerizing views was so worth it.
The view from our refuge after the first hiking day.
Views from the top.
Our group - my boyfriend Marek, me, Josh, Kieran, Joe and our guide Ibrahim.
5 Tips for the Jebel Toubkal Hike
1. Make sure you have an English-speaking guide (unless you can speak French - most of them do too). It is easy to get lost and instructions should be clear to you.
2. If you have time, do the longer three days loop - you see more of the mountain range, waterfalls, and many more beautiful views.
3. Bring clothes for different weather conditions - we hiked Toubkal in summer, which means almost 40° C in Imlil and windy 5°C at the top even with a bit of snow. The difference is huge and it's good to be ready for everything (bring gloves and a beanie for the top!)
4. Have good hiking shoes - the route is not an easy one, mostly consisting of rocks of all sizes - I recommend having good, preferably higher boots, as it makes walking in this terrain easier. Also, I recommend bringing or renting hiking sticks - 20 km downhill can be quite tiring for your knees.
5. Buy chocolate or other small sweets for quick sugars - the elevation difference is quite big and it can make you feel dizzy at the top. Having a piece of chocolate always helps.
Toubkal was magnificent but exhausting. It was time to rest. When we came back to Marrakesh we rented a car (see details below) and drove to the Ourika Valley.
We decided to rent a car with a local agency instead of a car rental chain. On Google Maps we found Mustapha Rent Cars with some very good reviews and decided to book with them. We can only recommend it! Mustapha's communication via WhatsApp was very fast and efficient, he delivered the car to our chosen location in Marrakesh and also picked it up somewhere else when we asked him. We had the Dacia for 10 days - no problems at all.
Ourika Valley - days 6-8
Ourika Valley is just about an hour's drive from Marrakesh and it is a great escape when you get tired of the city. The valley is surrounded by mountains and in the middle is the Ourika River - along the river are hundreds of restaurants and shops, all of them with usually the same type of food (tagine, kebabs, fries, etc.). I recommend reading some Google reviews because visiting some of the restaurants - in Ourika we had our only very bad food experience.
In the Ourika Valley, we did one hike to the Setti Fadma and 7 cascades - about an hour's walk from the village to the beautiful waterfalls. Even though they will ask for money afterward, I recommend taking a guide to this location. Our guide took us on a different path than all other tourists went. He was very knowledgeable of the area and gave us some good tips.
Through the Mountains to the Ocean - days 8-9
After the Ourika Valley, it was time to go to the west, see the Atlantic Ocean, and shred some waves. However, we decided not to take the main road via Marrakesh but to go through the mountains instead, where we wanted to spend one more night.
Except for hiking, which can be tricky during summer months, in the mountains, there is not that much to do. We were very lucky that we visited this part of Morocco during The Eid - Muslim holiday. Not only we were spectators of some local traditions but mainly almost everyone that day was enjoying their family's company and feasting at home - therefore the roads were pretty empty for our drive through Tizi n'Test. Tizi n'Test is a scenic route through the Atlas mountains which goes up to 2100 meters above sea level. The road is not of the best quality but when you are an okay driver, it is manageable, sometimes a little scary. The views are spectacular, on the way you can see a lot of mountain goats and we even saw a chameleon. Definitely reccomend! Through Tizi n'Test we drove all the way to Taghazout, which took us about 3,5 hours (230 km).
Surfing in Taghazout - days 9-15
When planning our Moroccan vacation, we knew for sure we would like to also try surfing - Morocco is known for its great surfing beaches suitable for beginners. As our surf spot, we chose the small village of Taghazout, which is about half an hour's drive from Agadir. Taghazout definitely did not disappoint - there is a small but very clean and pretty beach for swimming right in the village, surf beach is about 10 minutes drive. Even though it is a smaller town, it has a great chill surfer vibe with many good spots to eat and drink. During our stay, we also saw a local concert!
Places to Visit around Taghazout
Paradise Valley - a nice walk through the canyon, which is normally flooded during winter, and little cafés along the river (you can sit in the water while enjoying your drink and small fish will take care of your pedicure)
Timlalin Dunes - big dunes with some great views of the cliffs and the ocean, definitely worth visiting. You can try sandboarding if you want!
Tamri National Park - cliffs and beaches, amazing views, and nice walks.
Essaouira - days 15-16
Essaouira was our last stop before coming back to Marrakesh and flying home. We really liked the city but it was quite crowded and the beach was really dirty. However, there is a really nice walk around the castle walls, local squares, and many great shops and restaurants.
Our Favourites in Essaouira for Eating & Drinking
Back to Marrakesh and flying home - days 16-17
Via the highway back to Marrakesh, where we handed over our car and went for one last dinner. See you again soon, Morocco!
Where to stay.
Marrakesh - Riad La Medersa (not in Google Maps)
Riad la medersa was a proper Moroccan experience. It was located in the heart of the old Medina, stylish and clean. Our host was really sweet and hospitable. Breakfasts on the roof terrace were amazing and there was also the possibility to have dinner cooked by the host - one of the best tajines we had.
Cost: 30 EUR/night (two people)
Our rating: 10/10
Ourika Valley - Dar Tawja
Dar Tawja was a perfect spot for our rest after the Toubkal hike. We had a cozy room with a comfortable bed. There was a great swimming pool. It was very quiet. Breakfasts and dinners were really tasty.
Cost: 33 EUR/night (two people)
Our rating: 8.5/10 (the access road was in a bed condition and there was no AC in the room).
Ijjoukak - Chez Imnir
Chez Imnir was the most authentic accommodation we had. The host family was very nice but did not speak much English - we still managed to get a great breakfast on time and a good dinner (an enormous portion!). We also got to experience there some traditions during Eid. Nice swimming pool.
Cost: 25 EUR/night (two people)
Our rating: 9/10 (tougher communication)
Taghazout - Taghazout Ocean View
Taghazout Ocean View was the best choice for our longest stay. We booked a very lovely double room with a private bathroom. The whole team was very welcoming. The hostel had a nice rooftop terrace where we had breakfasts and could chill during warm evenings. The hostel offers surfing lessons (30 USD/person) which were really nice - we took three. We can only recommend it.
Cost: 40 EUR/night (two people)
Our rating: 10/10
Essaouira - Riad Dar Nor
Riad Dar Nor was a great riad in the middle of Essaouira's Medina. It was very quiet and clean, we had a very good breakfast.
Some other tips.
Food
Moroccan cuisine is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, reflecting the country's diverse cultural influences. Spices like cumin, coriander, and cinnamon create the foundation for most dishes.
Moroccan breakfast usually consists of some type of bread, butter, jam, cheese, and fresh fruit (Moroccan oranges are the best!). You can often have also eggs or Moroccan pancakes, and, of course, freshly made orange juice and tee.
Moroccan salads and appetizers, such as zaalouk and briouats, offer a burst of flavors and textures. My favorite briouats were the ones with cheese or veggies.
The most iconic lunch/dinner dish that you should definitely try is tagine. Tagine is a slow-cooked stew of meat, vegetables, and dried fruits cooked in a pointy ceramic pot on a fire. Tagine comes in many different varieties, we have tried tagine with lamb, fish, chicken, and beef. Another very traditional staple is couscous. Couscous is often paired with savory stews, vegetables, or meat. Meals can be spicy but do not have to be.
To complement meals or just a sign of hospitality, Moroccans drink very sweet mint tea every day, all day. It is interesting, how this hot tea is even good in hot weather. As a dessert, most restaurants offer pancakes or different types of cake.
In general, the food is great. Next to traditional foods such as tagine or couscous, in bigger cities, you can always find "western" food.
Weather
In Morocco, especially on a road trip like ours, you'll find several types of climates, so it's good to be prepared for anything. Also, it very much depends on what time of year you go. We were in Morocco in late June-early July which is not the hottest period but it's getting hotter.
Inland, in the Marrakesh area, the temperatures tend to be the highest. During our visit, it was up to 40°C and constant sunshine, which was not always easy for sightseeing. However, the local heat is, in my opinion, more bearable than the same temperatures in, for example, South Asia, where high humidity is added to the mix. In the mountains, the temperatures were cooler, especially at night. On the Atlantic coast, it was very pleasant, around 28°C during the day which allowed us to do many walks (we also surfed in a wetsuit).
Money
While some hotels, restaurants, and tourist-oriented businesses in Morocco may accept euros, the official currency for transactions is the Moroccan dirham (MAD). It's generally recommended to use the local currency for most transactions to avoid unfavorable exchange rates or confusion. However, major currencies like the euro and the US dollar can often be exchanged at banks, exchange offices, and some hotels in larger cities and tourist areas.
For us, the easiest way was to transfer money to Revolut (none or low fees) and always just take out cash in bigger cities. On markets, smaller shops, some restaurants or even some accommodation, they only accept cash.
Earthquake 2023
A powerful earthquake hit Morocco on Sept. 8, 2023, killing more than 2,800 people, injuring thousands more, and causing widespread damage. The 6.8M earthquake hit in a mountainous area near Ighil, Morocco, about 50 miles from historic Marrakesh with a strength not recorded in the region in 120 years. The Moroccan Red Crescent Society (MRCS) responded immediately, providing first aid and psychosocial support, helping transport the injured to hospitals, evacuating people from damaged buildings, and providing dignified burial management. Through this appeal, the IFRC is supporting MRCS to meet the immediate and early recovery needs of 500,000 affected people. Priorities include providing food and safe water, essential household items, shelter support, health and mental health services, and cash assistance.
That's it from our Moroccan adventure.
Thank you very much for reading my guide, it was a pleasure to write it for you. If you have any additional questions, please, do not hesitate to contact me via email at kucharcikova.a@gmail.com or Instagram Anna Kucharčíková.
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