Beating the Travel Tipping Point to Luang Prabang, Laos

This guide includes where to eat and drink, where to stay, what to do, and where to work remotely in Luang Prabang, Laos — a sublime little city on the confluence of the mighty Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Luang Prabang is a must-visit in your explorations of Southeast Asia. Orange robe-clad monks stroll the streets lined with historic French architecture. Welcome smiles, delicious cuisine, and ancient wats all await you at this UNESCO world heritage destination. With thoughtful new investment from savvy local business owners and French and Swiss expats who were stuck here (and fell in love) during Covid, the town is at a perfect inflection point of old and new. You can sit down to a bowl of soup on the sidewalk, dine at a 5-star hotel, and sip an IPA at a trendy cafe — all within a few blocks of each other. But hurry, Luang Prabang is not too far from the visitor tipping point.

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Where to Eat & Drink

Artisan Bar

@dawnhagin

Tiny, dark, and (almost) over-cooled, this swank little spot off an alley features true mixologists. It also offers a respite to the heat, and an alternative to another bottle of Beer Lao. Sophisticated cocktails, plush armchair-style stools and well-dressed bartenders lend an "where am I!?" air to the whole affair.

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BOUANG Asian Eatery

@dawnhagin

The food is as good as the adorable, eye-candy decor at this main street eatery. Delicious veggie and regular burgers, and Lao and Asian fusion dishes that differ from everything else you'll see in town. Do yourself a favor and spend a few minutes reading the "Laos Facts" wall by the bathroom. You'll learn that there are 500,000,000 geckos in Luang Prabang, for example.

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ຮ້ານອາຫານຮ່ອມວັດແສນ1991 Wat Sene Alley Restaurant 1991

@dawnhagin

No-nonsense local spot in an alley behind Wat Sensoukharam (hence the name). Fat-forward and scrumptious pork belly dishes and one of the best places to devour sauteed morning glory, the staple regional green.

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Grasshopper cafe lounge & studio

@dawnhagin

Excellent coffee, divinely yummy (and healthy) breakfast and lunch bowls, smoothies. . .and the best yoga classes in town. Luang Prabang is a coffee mecca, and Grasshopper has one of the best lattes in town.

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Khaiphaen

@dawnhagin

Flavorful and exceptionally prepared Laotian classics are just the beginning here. This friendly restaurant also supports local kids' education and teaches them culinary and general business skills. The Or Lam pork stew and Coconut and Pendan Panna Cotta are my faves.

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Lost In Baan

@dawnhagin

New in late 2023 and already knocking it out of the park, this bright, open, cafe offers delicious, modern takes on Laotian, Thai, Japanese, and other world cuisines, as well as creative cocktails. DO NOT miss the Dam Dam Buns and the Carbo-Sayo-Nara. As of "press time" (early November 2023) the cafe closes at 9 pm, but the French owner has installed a DJ set-up and has an impressive vinyl collection. He has plans. . .

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Manda de Laos

@dawnhagin

The fanciest, loveliest, most charming restaurant in town. Set inside a courtyard along three night-blooming lily ponds, this spacious place is quite expensive by Laos standards, but a truly magical experience. Order a la carte or one of the set prix fixe menus. Or, better yet, if there are 2 or more in your party, get one of the largest set menus to share and add in a few other dishes that strike your fancy. Portions are generous. Fish and pork appetizers and entrees here are especially delicious, and the lilies springing open after 8 pm add to the ambience.

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Nagini by 3 Nagas

@dawnhagin

Pricey by Laotian standards, this more relaxed cafe of the 3 Nagas luxury hotel and restaurant (across the street) is nonetheless worth the splurge. Extraordinary cocktails, desserts (try the tapioca) and snacks all shine.

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Popolo, Restaurant

@dawnhagin

When you need a break from rice and spice, this Latin inspired bistro fits the bill. Salads, pastas, and classic and clever pizzas are all quite tasty. And, a rarity in Luang Prabang — affordable French wines by the glass.

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Saffron Coffee's Espresso, Brew Bar, & Roastery

@dawnhagin

Top-notch coffee drinks (including the decadent Laos Latte made with condensed milk) and excellent desserts (get the brownie or carrot cake). Saffron offers interior seating, but try and snag a spot across the street at their two-level outdoor patio overlooking the Mekong. Bring a book and chill as you watch the boats drift by.

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The Teahouse luangprabang

@dawnhagin

A bit out of center, but so worth the scooter drive or tuk tuk ride. Great Laotian food and flavorful teas (both hot and iced), including the delicious local Bael fruit tea. A marvelous combination of sweet and sour. End your meal with the vegan coconut ice cream and make sure to visit the owners' textile shop and museum across the street. She is one of the co-owners of Ock Pop Tok (see below).

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Yuni Yupoun

@dawnhagin

Colorful, two-story world bistro vibe right on the main drag. Excellent food (especially the curry chicken and buffalo steak) and a great central place to be during festivals, such as the end of Buddhist Lent (see "when to go" section).

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What to Do

1. Learn Laos History

Garavek Storytelling

@dawnhagin

Hear magical tales of Laos folklore punctuated by the reedy strains of khaen music. This one-hour storytelling session is charming and well worth the $5 entry fee. NOTE: A khaen is a mouth organ that resembles panpipes, but made with bamboo tubes of varying lengths.

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2. Drift Along the Mekong (with a Cocktail)

Khopfa Mekong Cruise

@dawnhagin

Walk Khem Khong road along the Mekong and you receive constant pitches for boat rides. Ignore them all and book online for the Khopka. Stylish and comfortable, the two-story Khopfa is the perfect boat on which to float at sunset. With a cocktail in your hand no less!

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3. Scoot to a Waterfall

Kuang Si Waterfall

@dawnhagin

Crawling with tourists? Yes. Worth it? Also yes. Kuang Si is truly one of the most spectacular waterfalls you will ever see. Level upon level of limestone terraces cascade with rushing turquoise tides.

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4. Explore the Wats (Temples)

With 33 temples in the city, you could spend entire days strolling wat to wat, but don't miss the two below. These cost a minor fee as they are very historical, sacred, and popular. But many wats are free to explore. Just remember to be quiet and respectful, and wear something that covers your knees and shoulders when you enter the temple grounds.

Wat Xiengthong

@dawnhagin

Spectacular glass tile mural walls line the many chapels and buildings of this UNESCO-recognized wat. Once the site of the king's coronation and a pilgrimage center for the devote from Siam, it now is the center of candle celebration during major Buddhist holidays. A visit during the end of Buddhist Lent and Boats of Light festival in late October will enchant you (see cover photo).

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Wat Wisunarat

@dawnhagin

The oldest temple in Luang Prabang dates back to 1513 and features a giant watermelon-shaped stupa and one of the largest golden Buddhists in town. It's also home to many religious artifacts and precious religious items. While the large wat building will draw you in (as it should), don't miss a peek into the smaller chapel. Its colorful murals were updated in the 1990s and a close look at the painted characters' hairstyles will make you smile.

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5. Climb Phousi Hill

Phousi Hill

@dawnhagin

A visit to Luang Prabang wouldn't be complete without a pilgrimage climb up the 328 steps of Phousi Hill. Not only are the views expansive and the 20-meter tall stupa at the top impressive, the hill also features many golden Buddhas and sacred spots. You'll likely see and hear monks chanting or playing the ritual drum and cymbals.

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6. Visit a Women-Empowering Craft Center

Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre

@dawnhagin

Ock Pop Tok means "East meets West" and this weaving center was founded in 2000 by a woman from each. One local, one from the UK. Set on lovely grounds along the Mekong, the center works to lift women and their families out of poverty by paying a fair price for each woven creation (clothes, purses, toys, bedding, etc.), as well as health and social security benefits. The weavers also are entitled to interest-free loans and receive an overall share of the center's profits from textiles and entrance fees. Take a tour to learn about the natural dying and weaving processes, and eat lunch at Silk Road, the onsite restaurant.

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7. Discover Laos Ethnic Diversity

Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre

@dawnhagin

A fascinating look into the different Lao tribes and traditions, this advocacy center is doing great work protecting the interests of and uplifting Laos' minority groups, such as the Oma people. Exhibits inform and educate. During our latest visit, a special exhibit focused on the line between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation in the fashion world. Using a cut-clear case of "inspiration" abuse against the Oma people by fashion giant Max Mara as its emotional core, the exhibit demonstrates troubling cases from around the world.

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8. Walk With an Elephant

MandaLao Elephant Conservation

@dawnhagin

The ONLY ethical elephant group in the area. MandaLao elephants are healthy and unchained and you do NOT ride them. Instead, you stroll through the forest with them, feed them, and bath them. A soulful experience. Please do not visit any other elephant center in the area.

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Where to Stay

Staying in (or close to) the Historic District will enable you to walk or bike almost everywhere. My recommendations below range from the most affordable to the biggest splurge, but all are great stays.

La Casa Hostel

@dawnhagin

Perhaps the best deal in town if you are looking to save! Both private and shared rooms and a great communal, social vibe. Breakfast included and a free optional meal every other night. Clean, friendly and family run. A bit out of center, but still close enough to enjoy it all.

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Meunna Boutique Hotel

@dawnhagin

Affordable, adorable, and super-clean, this place is a top pick for its spacious rooms and dream of a manager. A bit out of the historic center, it's still pretty walkable and the hotel provides bikes for guest use. The lovely little pool is an added bonus.

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The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel

@dawnhagin

Mid-priced boutique hotel in a French colonial home with a fabulous historic district location. Genuine, caring staff and a restaurant/bar deck area overlooking the Mekong. Classy rooms, and exceptional concierge service, as well.

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Le Sen Boutique Hotel

@dawnhagin

Sweet boutique hotel set around a small pool and courtyard. Exceptional service and the onsite, guests-only restaurant make this an intimate stay, Food is terrific if somewhat limited. Best crispy spring rolls in town! Splurge a tad more and book The Villa. A great breakfast is included in the rate.

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3 Nagas Luang Prabang - MGallery

@dawnhagin

Located in a super-central location on Luang Prabang's main street, this venerable hotel is the epitome of old-world Lao style and superb service.

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Satri House

@dawnhagin

One of the most exquisite properties in the city and a luxury experience on all levels, Satri House is a definite splurge (at $280 USD and up), but is a total treat. Excellent staff, lusciously comfortable beds, beautiful pools, and bikes to ride into town.

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Where to Work

While places like Grasshopper and Lost in Baan (see above) have good WIFI and comfy spaces for an hour or so of email checking and urgent issues, you may overstay your welcome if you try camping out at these eateries too long. Luckily, The Desk, Luang Prabang's first (and currently only) co-working space opened in October 2023.

The Desk Co-Working

@dawnhagin

Bright and airy with good WIFI and a variety of workspace options, The Desk is a terrific (and much-needed) addition to Luang Prabang. Chris, the affable owner, will most likely be onsite and is a font of local information. Free coffee, tea, water and snacks,

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When to Go

Two of the most auspicious times to visit Laos are in the shoulder season months of April and October — just before and just after the rainy season. These two months feature the most important celebrations of the annual calendar: Laos New Year (mid-April) and the End of Buddhist Lent (end of October). Luang Prabang is alive with festivals and activities during both celebrations and you'll experience the full color and magic of the town.

We attended the 2023 End of Buddhist Lent festival in October and below are a few of my husband's photos!

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Wayfarer Dawn

Available for hire

My free and for-purchase itineraries and guides are action-packed and lean heavy on wayfaring (enjoying destinations by foot) and road trips. I specialize in travel for active, 40+ traveling couples who neither spend extravagantly nor journey on a shoestring. I know where to splurge and where to save, and will advise on the best way to thrive when on the road. I live and work from abroad 8 months of the year with my husband, Adam. The other four, I explore every last hiking trail in my home of Sedona, Arizona, USA. FYI — we rent out our home nightly via Airbnb and VRBO. Check out at sedona-vacation-home.com. I'm food-motivated and passionate about weird, little museums; explore by foot whenever I can — clocking miles on pavement, sand, and single track in places as diverse as Kyoto, Cartagena, and Tallinn. I balance my travel time returning to favorite spots (ANYWHERE in Japan; Oaxaca, Mexico; Siem Reap, Cambodia) and peeling back the layers of somewhere new. I'm available for hire as a travel consultant and I will continue producing very opinionated travel guides here on Thatch and publish my travel musings via posts and stories on Instagram via @wayfarerdawn and on my website wayfarerdawn.com.

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