#khowdozen | Istanbul

Katie Howerton

In 2014 as a junior in college, I was roped into a two-month summer trip to Istanbul, Turkey. Growing up loving travel but struggling with history, I had no clue what I was getting into—I couldn’t even show you Turkey on a map. So it came as a complete surprise that 60 days in this city would make me more familiar with it than my own hometown and grow a love I didn’t know was possible. I could never up all I learned and love about Istanbul, but for cities like this that I know well it’s pretty easy to identify the places I would revisit today if I could, and that’s why I’m starting my #khowdozen Lists. Consider this a starting place for how to engage with Istanbul as a first-time visitor; perhaps you could even squeeze these twelve experiences into a long layover! This isn’t a list of the top sites or best fine dining; it’s the honest opinion of a girl who spent two months in the simple Kadikoy neighborhood and grew to love the Turkish people and the ways they connect, eat, and explore their beloved city. All photography by Katie Howerton.

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Kizil Adalar Island

@katie.howerton

Confusing thing about visiting a country with a different language: everything has two names. Princes’ Island (AKA Kizil Adalar) was one of my favorite day trips and reminded me a bit of Mackinac Island in Michigan. We loved bringing a picnic, buying flower crowns, and watching horses and bikes pass by.

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Köyüm Pide Moda

@katie.howerton

Pide (pronounced pee-day) is the Turkish equivalent of pizza and SO good. (The Turks eat so many carbs, and I love it. They must be legit, too, because my extremely gluten-sensitive friend ate bread all summer long and never got sick.) Köyüm Pide was a favorite local chain, and my favorite

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Kemal Usta Waffles

@katie.howerton

Waffles aren’t the *most* Turkish dish, but they’re as accessible as frozen yogurt is in the US and just as much fun to pile toppings on. Kemal Usta was our favorite local chain and made for a hearty dessert stop at the end of a long day.

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Frango

@katie.howerton

Dürüms are the Turkish equivalent of a good sandwich, and you haven’t really been to Istanbul till you’ve had one. You can find them most anywhere, but Frango was a favorite local chain we frequented with a diverse menu. Their logo and ordering method reminded me of Buffalo Wild Wings. 😂 It makes for a great to-go lunch with some ayran (the lukewarm, yogurt-based drink you either love or hate) to take to a nearby park for a game of Tavla (AKA Backgammon).

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Seven Kebap

@katie.howerton

HANDS 👏🏻 DOWN 👏🏻 my favorite restaurant in Istanbul. We were taken here our first night in town, and it was the perfect introduction to traditional Turkish dishes in the charming setting of a street cafe. The hollow bread and tomato dipping sauce is heavenly, and make sure to get the Beyti (pictured above). I’m pretty sure the meat is lamb (pretty typical for Turkish food), and I haven’t been able to find the dish anywhere else—in Istanbul or state-side.

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Murat Muhallebicisi

@katie.howerton

A trip to Istanbul isn’t complete without baklava, and Murat Muhallebicisi is a shop you can find pretty easily in most neighborhoods. I prefer completely local bakeries for savory pastries (everyone does things a little different, and it’s fun to find your regular order at a cafe), but this spot never let me down on baklava—in fact, my favorite version was the cylindrical, green variation packed with pistachios. Middle Easterns love to soak baked goods in honey and call it dessert, so get ready!

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Fazil Bey's Turkish Coffee

@katie.howerton

Turkish coffee is the counterpart to çay, and while it wasn’t a staple throughout my stay, visiting Fazil Bey’s (a few locations) was memorable. Be prepared for the thick, stout treat (often paired with a complimentary piece of Turkish Delight), and turn your empty cup upside down on your saucer for a few minutes; the marks left on the saucer are a source of fortune telling in Turkish culture.

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Bosphorus Tour

@katie.howerton

If I have to sum up Istanbul in one word, it would be “ferry.” Boat travel is as common (and necessary) as buses and subways, and it was the part of my day I looked most forward to. Payment works similar to any other public transit system, but if it were up to me, I’d just hop on one day and stay as long as I wanted. The breeze and view of the water is stunning, and it is the ideal spot to people watch, journal, and drink a cup of çay (pronounced chai), Turkish tea. You could throw a rock most anywhere and find a spot to grab çay in Istanbul, but it’s even available on the ferries. (Drink it with the two sugar cubes it comes with for a true Turkish taste; it’s strong for sure.) My tip would to be to grab a simit (think a Turkish sesame bagel) from a cart at the dock to eat alongside your tea; together they’ll cost you next to nothing. (The European side often serves them with Nutella if you’re a fan.)

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Galata Tower

@katie.howerton

The Galata Tower and Bridge are iconic, and the view from the top is breathtaking, both for classic landscape photos and for people-watching. It’s also just a mile away from the popular Taksim Square and the bulk of the embassies, an architectural treasure.

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Sultanahmet Square

@katie.howerton

Istanbul is the only city in the world that lives on two continents, and while the majority of my time there was spent in Asia, the European side is where you’ll find the vast majority of tourist traps and historic sites. The Hagia Sophia (or Ayasofya) is most iconic and my personal favorite, but a trip to the Sultanahmet Square puts you within throwing distance of not only this but also the Blue Mosque (AKA Sultanahmet), Topkapi Palace, the cisterns, and a handful of amazing museums. You can find discounted combination tickets to let you inside multiple sites, but even just a stroll of the exteriors will astound you.

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Ali Suavi Sokak

@katie.howerton

One of my favorite parts of the walk from the Kadikoy dock to my friends’ home was bypassing the busy Sögütlü Çesme street and walking to “art street,” AKA Ali Suavi Sokak. This hidden street (so hidden it took me hours to figure out its actual name via Google) is lined with quaint shops and art vendors, not to mention CATS. Cats are everywhere in Istanbul, as well as large mutts, so don’t be surprised if you make a companion on your journey. This street is also home to my favorite local calligrapher, and I will forever cherish the souvenirs I picked up here.

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Emirgan Sütiş

@katie.howerton

Turkish Breakfast is an event, and while it might be the costliest meal you’ll have in Istanbul, it’s a perfect way to celebrate with friends and family (plus, splitting the bill is nice!). I can’t remember for the life of me exactly where we had ours, but I’m guessing it was at Emirgan Sütis (a small chain) right on the coast at Emirgan Park. Enjoy a shared spread of olives, cheeses, meats, and all kinds of breads and spreads—not to mention the cucumbers and tomatoes you can count on for every meal. Many of the park cafes offer this on weekends (try to get a reservation), which makes for a great way to enjoy the greener spaces of Istanbul, best in the spring when the tulips bloom.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Katie Howerton

📍 Tennessee Here to create meaningful and affordable travel experiences for millennials and families who love food, art, and culture. Planning a Disney vacation? Follow me at [@souvenear.wdw](https://share.thatch.co/qzQw).

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