Ahmedabad city in the Gujarat state is India's first & only UNESCO World Heritage City. The old part of Ahmedabad is the cultural hub where the historical lanes are intertwined between the cultures of Hinduism, Islam & Jainism.
For the curious minds and lovers of history and architecture, this  self-guided Ahmedabad Heritage Walk will leave you with tons of travel photos and intriguing history, and touch your taste buds with authentic Gujarati delicacies. 

What you will find in the guide?
• Detailed route map📍
• Step-by-step route guidance👣
• Walkthrough notes 📑
• Must-see features 👀
• Fun facts🌀
• Historical stories 📜
• Tips & suggestions 🗳

India

Gujarat, India

Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India

Ahmedabad Heritage Walk

The intricate latticework of this yellow sandstone mosque is the reason behind its popularity. The carvings of "Tree of Life" (picture below) has become an unofficial symbol of Ahmedabad.

During the reign of Shamsus-din Muzaffar Shah of Gujarat Sultanate, Sidi Saiyed built this mosque between 1572-1573 A.D. Sidi Saiyed was part of the Sultan's army force and was originally from Ethiopia, an African interested in art and architecture. Sidis was the word used for the Africans that arrived in India from countries such as Ethiopia, Eritrea, Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania and many more. One such African warrior, Sidi Saiyed, also known as Shaikh Saiyyed Al-Habshi Sultani, built this mosque which is a sheer example of Indo-Islamic art. However, the construction was interrupted when the Mughals invaded the Gujarat Sultanate and hence, you will find few arches where the latticework is absent. 

It stands peacefully amidst the chaotic and busy streets of Ahmedabad and stepping here seems like stepping back in time. 

Start your morning with Masala Chai and Bun Maska, a classic breakfast to which Ahmedabad wakes up to.

Walk a few metres and see the essence of Ahmedabad --- Sidi Saiyed Mosque.

As you walk towards Bhadra Fort, you will cross a metal gate and find yourself inside the Shahi Maidan which used to be a royal square back then lined with dates and palm trees. On your right, you will probably overhear the religious hymns or catch the devotees gathered around the Bhadrakali Temple. Right besides that is the huge wooden gate leading to the Bhadra Fort, named after the temple.

This red sandstone citadel was built as an eastern entrance by Ahmed Shah in 1411, when he laid the foundation of the Ahmedabad city. Later, the Britishers took over the fort in 1817 and turned it into a prison until Independence.

Check out the strong bulbous walls of the fort, ornate arches and lattice work of the windows. In 1878, a Victorian clock was put up by the Britishers, which had a kerosene lamp that lit it up. Later, the kerosene lamp was replaced with an electric lamp in 1915.

The 25-ft high three-arched gateway, at the end of the Shahi Maidan, is something you won't miss as you see a constant commotion passing through. If you are doing this walk early in the morning, you will probably smell the fishes coming from the market on the left.

It's more like a legend than a history that, when the Goddess Laxmi (goddess of wealth) was leaving the city from Teen Darwaza, the watchman stopped her and requested her to stay put until he goes and informs the ruler Ahmed Shah. Khwaja Siddique Kotwal, the watchman decided to sacrifice and beheaded himself to ensure that the Goddess will stay in the city forever while waiting for him. It is believed that the Goddess still lives there and since more than 600 years, a Muslim family keeps a lamp lit in one of the openings of the gate and also offers flowers. Also, the watchman's sacrifice didn't go unnoticed. A mausoleum is built near Bhadra Fort to honour and admire his bravery and self-surrender.

The prominent center of the heritage city around which the businesses & major activities of the city began to flourish.

Built in Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, this mosque showcases striking features like carvings which includes a few portrayals of both the Hinduism & Jainism faiths like the lotus flowers & bells. The holy tank in the center is where the ablutions are performed has a marble floor and old wooden roof. Three sides of the mosque is surrounded with a colonnade and walls with Islamic calligraphy.

The construction of the mosque began in 1411 and was completed in 1424 under the reign of Ahmed Shah I, the founder of this heritage city. His and his grandson’s tombs are right besides this beautiful mosque.

Ratan Pol is a shopping street which is closed in the morning and a few steps away after entering the street, you will find a Fafda Jalebi stall on your right, selling piping hot and freshly fried Fafda.

Having this at Lucky Tea Stall is especially unique because they prepare the Bun Maska using real white Makkhan and not processed butter.

There is an M.F. Hussain painting hanging on one of the walls which he gifted himself to the owner. 

It is a perfect combination of savoury & sweet and a
beloved breakfast of every Gujarati. Fafda is a thin flat snack made with gram
flour savoured with raw Papaya Chutney & gram flour Kadhi.

Beyond Fafda & Jalebi, you can also try some Ganthiya & Khaman, which are other different snacks made with gram flour.

All of the Gujarati snack is primarily made with gram flour
and the reason is to nutrition the delicacies with enough protein & fibre.

Harkunwar Sethani ni Haveli is the mansion you wouldn't miss on your left before entering the Doshiwada ni pol. 

The intricate wooden carvings on the mansion makes it one of the most glorious architectural marvels of Ahmedabad. 

This palatial three storey building has 60 rooms but what stands is its elaborately patterned facade with decorative wooden brackets, iron railings, and the  jharokhas (bay balconies).

Although, it was owned by an influential Jain family of Ahmedabad, the mansion is known after this one resident and the leading lady - Harkunwar Sethani. After her husband's demise, she looked after the completion of Hutheesing Jain Temple and worked for the welfare of the widows and women's education.  Not only that, in 1855, she opened a girl's school - Harkunwarba and Jyotiba Kanyashala - with a vision of women empowerment. Her noteworthy work was admired by the Britishers awarding her with a title called "Nek Shekhavati Bahadur". 

8. Astapad
Jain Derasar – Doshiwada ni Pol

The old city of Ahmedabad is an intermingling of around 360 Pol, meaning fortified housing system. They would usually have only one or two entrances which would instill a sense of security within the residents. You will find many such Pol as you walk around the narrow streets of this heritage city.

Mainly the families of goldsmiths reside in this area with many jewelry shops around. Old architecture of the houses here are a sight to behold and an unmissable photography opportunity.

It's a Jain temple that was built in 1856 by "Rao Bahadur" Maganlal Karamchand. 

This marble temple is a beautiful example of Hindu-Jain architecture where you can see the elaborately carved figurines and motifs. Inside, you will see a yellow berry tree, which is significant to the Jain devotees as the footprints of Lord Adishvar are protected under it. 

This old bridge is popular for the book market which runs underneath.

Britishers constructed the Fernandes Bridge in 1884 over the Manek River which dried up gradually over passing years and human activity took over the space.

An aromatic market of incense sticks and a line of stalls with heaps of mouth fresheners will bring you to the arched entrance of Rani no Hajiro.

How to reach there: Take an auto rickshaw or metro train

Note: Bhadra Fort is currently closed for restoration but you can spot its entrance from the gate.

From the patterned stone walls, you can peep inside and see the eight marble tombs covered with bright & golden embroidered brocade fabrics. 

Take a left after the entrance gate and look for the stairs on the right. You will reach an elevated courtyard where the queens of Ahmed Shah I & other Sultanate rulers rests in peace. 

Please Note: The gates are mostly closed but if a guard is present there, he sometimes opens it for the visitors.

As you are standing by the series of stone columns, you will notice how the surrounding houses & market blend with this heritage structure making the scene a bit chaotic yet colourful & unique.

Ahmedabad Heritage Walk

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